Who here has a built block /5.7 engine?
#1
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Who here has a built block /5.7 engine?
Someone made an offer on my wagon (unexpectedly), which I am considering. Then, I stopped by various car dealers and all the cars are great but $$$. I am seriously thinking of keeping my wagon forever (I love my wagon and like no car payments) and putting in a 5.7 built block and seeing how much HP/TQ one can get out of that weistec sc. With that said, anyone here had their engine built and blue printed to 5.7? Can you share your experience? Thanks.
#5
Super Member
There is a funny story about that motor set up, actually. Ultimate Performance/Shardul were the first to produce it........then some tried to back door their set up. There will always be a Fabtech attempting to copying your sh*t. lolz
Last edited by EREBUS; 08-30-2015 at 01:11 AM.
#6
Super Member
Someone made an offer on my wagon (unexpectedly), which I am considering. Then, I stopped by various car dealers and all the cars are great but $$$. I am seriously thinking of keeping my wagon forever (I love my wagon and like no car payments) and putting in a 5.7 built block and seeing how much HP/TQ one can get out of that weistec sc. With that said, anyone here had their engine built and blue printed to 5.7? Can you share your experience? Thanks.
Having the 5.7L in my car was a logical choice......not for the purpose of a monster build. Kinda giving a rats a** about dumping a ton of money in a dated platform.......the 5.7L Ultimate Performance engine was a better option than rebuilding a non sleeved motor. Period.
Benefit for me? My engine was separating on 5 different runs and hit a little over 260 degrees 3 times in the process. Only thing that gave was my head bolts and gaskets. (compression test was within 2 psi of each cylinder) Factory engine would of snapped in half. lol
#7
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
I am assuming Weistec did the new tune with the built engine? And, you yourself did the assembling of the engine, once you got the built block? I ask b/c I will need to have a shop take the stuff off my existing engine onto the new built block and was trying to gauge that expense.
[QUOTE= chawkins2001 Yeah, to replace you would need to step into a V wagon which is $40k+. I would keep her, stay with a built 5.4 to keep things simple bro.[/quote]
What do you mean by 5.4? Sorry for silly question.
[QUOTE= chawkins2001 Yeah, to replace you would need to step into a V wagon which is $40k+. I would keep her, stay with a built 5.4 to keep things simple bro.[/quote]
What do you mean by 5.4? Sorry for silly question.
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#8
Who here has a built block /5.7 engine?
Originally Posted by jcjmw
What do you mean by 5.4? Sorry for silly question.
#9
Having the 5.7L in my car was a logical choice......not for the purpose of a monster build. Kinda giving a rats a** about dumping a ton of money in a dated platform.......the 5.7L Ultimate Performance engine was a better option than rebuilding a non sleeved motor. Period.
Benefit for me? My engine was separating on 5 different runs and hit a little over 260 degrees 3 times in the process. Only thing that gave was my head bolts and gaskets. (compression test was within 2 psi of each cylinder) Factory engine would of snapped in half. lol
Benefit for me? My engine was separating on 5 different runs and hit a little over 260 degrees 3 times in the process. Only thing that gave was my head bolts and gaskets. (compression test was within 2 psi of each cylinder) Factory engine would of snapped in half. lol
To the op, 5.4 would be ideal. The .3l will not help much with our car.
#10
MBWorld Fanatic!
Everyone talks about a 5.7 liter engine but I guess that's because they build a 5.6L engine with a 2mm overbore and round up to a 5.7 like Mercedes rounds the 5.4 up to a 5.5.
#11
MBWorld Fanatic!
Having the 5.7L in my car was a logical choice......not for the purpose of a monster build. Kinda giving a rats a** about dumping a ton of money in a dated platform.......the 5.7L Ultimate Performance engine was a better option than rebuilding a non sleeved motor. Period.
Benefit for me? My engine was separating on 5 different runs and hit a little over 260 degrees 3 times in the process. Only thing that gave was my head bolts and gaskets. (compression test was within 2 psi of each cylinder) Factory engine would of snapped in half. lol
Benefit for me? My engine was separating on 5 different runs and hit a little over 260 degrees 3 times in the process. Only thing that gave was my head bolts and gaskets. (compression test was within 2 psi of each cylinder) Factory engine would of snapped in half. lol
#12
Super Member
On your tuner comment, you might want to check your facts. Besides, you are casting stones at more than one company.......
Bragging? The op asked the benefits/experience with the sleeved motor? He asked and I.......nevermind. gump, youradumbass. The point is the engine can take it. lol
#13
MBWorld Fanatic!
heads lift from detonation, or gross chamber pressure.
When 2L mitsu motors do 1500hp with no head lifting (proper timing, proper fuel, etc) - this means that when a M113K lifts a head under 20psi - that it is detonating. Gross Chamber Pressure from **non-detonation/preignition**, correct combustion events will not lift the head.
When 2L mitsu motors do 1500hp with no head lifting (proper timing, proper fuel, etc) - this means that when a M113K lifts a head under 20psi - that it is detonating. Gross Chamber Pressure from **non-detonation/preignition**, correct combustion events will not lift the head.
#16
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
#17
MBWorld Fanatic!
No. I come from the Mitsu world of the 4g63. You can not rev a 2.3 liter stroker the same way you can rev a 2.0, and the rod ratios tend to oblong the cylinder walls decreasing engine life. I have assembled about 10 short blocks. I always went with the 2.0.
#18
MBWorld Fanatic!
The 5.4 is already an over bored engine more or less. Darton suggest no more than a 2mm overbore and I was told they don't even suggest that really. If you looked at the amount of space between the cylinder bores stock you wouldn't want to go 2mm's bigger. There's not much left to seal at that point. Also even with that extra 2mm you still don't have a 5.7L
#19
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
The 5.4 is already an over bored engine more or less. Darton suggest no more than a 2mm overbore and I was told they don't even suggest that really. If you looked at the amount of space between the cylinder bores stock you wouldn't want to go 2mm's bigger. There's not much left to seal at that point. Also even with that extra 2mm you still don't have a 5.7L ��
#20
Out Of Control!!
Having the 5.7L in my car was a logical choice......not for the purpose of a monster build. Kinda giving a rats a** about dumping a ton of money in a dated platform.......the 5.7L Ultimate Performance engine was a better option than rebuilding a non sleeved motor. Period.
Benefit for me? My engine was separating on 5 different runs and hit a little over 260 degrees 3 times in the process. Only thing that gave was my head bolts and gaskets. (compression test was within 2 psi of each cylinder) Factory engine would of snapped in half. lol
Benefit for me? My engine was separating on 5 different runs and hit a little over 260 degrees 3 times in the process. Only thing that gave was my head bolts and gaskets. (compression test was within 2 psi of each cylinder) Factory engine would of snapped in half. lol
I am assuming Weistec did the new tune with the built engine? And, you yourself did the assembling of the engine, once you got the built block? I ask b/c I will need to have a shop take the stuff off my existing engine onto the new built block and was trying to gauge that expense.
Well, gump.....you are wrong. Without ARP head studs, I was in the danger zone running max boost in 90+ degrees from launch to 2 miles of runway.(you sh+t talkers might want to try the mile race sometime?) The vehicle was dyno tuned 2 weeks before the race and was set a little rich as a precaution. (we discussed my options/goal) Taking it a step further, i ran c16 with a ms109 tune.
On your tuner comment, you might want to check your facts. Besides, you are casting stones at more than one company.......
Bragging? The op asked the benefits/experience with the sleeved motor? He asked and I.......nevermind. gump, youradumbass. The point is the engine can take it. lol
On your tuner comment, you might want to check your facts. Besides, you are casting stones at more than one company.......
Bragging? The op asked the benefits/experience with the sleeved motor? He asked and I.......nevermind. gump, youradumbass. The point is the engine can take it. lol
Last edited by blackbenzz; 08-31-2015 at 09:19 AM.
#21
On the NA engine you want as big as possible. Plus this is your daily car, not a car the you would beat on at the track where every hp is count. You want some safety margin, in case of "****-happens". You don't want to bore the sleeve to the max and have no space to bore again in case of you scored a bore. Also when you bore the bore you leave the cyclinder wall thin and that will cause with the hg sealing problem.
And as for MrJackass, I guess it is true about TX. Everything is big in TX even the idiot jackass. My six years old boy doesn't even talk the way you do. What a classless clown!!
And please don't bother reply to me because you're officially blocked. So I won't see any idiotic comments from you. Have a nice life.
And as for MrJackass, I guess it is true about TX. Everything is big in TX even the idiot jackass. My six years old boy doesn't even talk the way you do. What a classless clown!!
And please don't bother reply to me because you're officially blocked. So I won't see any idiotic comments from you. Have a nice life.
Last edited by Forrest Gump 9; 08-31-2015 at 09:38 AM.
#22
MBWorld Fanatic!
Well, gump.....you are wrong. Without ARP head studs, I was in the danger zone running max boost in 90+ degrees from launch to 2 miles of runway.(you sh+t talkers might want to try the mile race sometime?) The vehicle was dyno tuned 2 weeks before the race and was set a little rich as a precaution. (we discussed my options/goal) Taking it a step further, i ran c16 with a ms109 tune.
On your tuner comment, you might want to check your facts. Besides, you are casting stones at more than one company.......
Bragging? The op asked the benefits/experience with the sleeved motor? He asked and I.......nevermind. gump, youradumbass. The point is the engine can take it. lol
On your tuner comment, you might want to check your facts. Besides, you are casting stones at more than one company.......
Bragging? The op asked the benefits/experience with the sleeved motor? He asked and I.......nevermind. gump, youradumbass. The point is the engine can take it. lol
#24
Super Member
Well, good god. Apparently the bandwagon still has plenty of room left?
I was going to break it down and personally attack each of you f*cktards.......but that would be no different than any other thread that some of you asshats attempt to throw punches in.
never mind. lets do this.....
Curious on how you know what in the hell was going on at that time? You and a few here feel the need to keep calling me out on head bolts? (Getting them in the time crunch was the problem) Really? This has nothing to do with ANYTHING in this thread. STFU already.
It's called spare time mr rocket and I don't have much of it. Single dad of two can sometimes be time consuming. Football, Tennis and Basketball. Then again, you strike me as the kinda sperm donor that would let someone else do your fathering for you.
News flash sparky, you won't take me in the mile without giggle. Period.
why do you keep bringing up the GOD DAMN RODS? WHY IN THE F*** DO I NEED RACING RODS WITH A FACTORY BLOWER?
You keep reaching. It's getting old.
Dude, if you are going to snuggle with me every time I post something, give me your number and we'll meet for lunch. I like to get to know someone before I marry them?
How about we get things straight. Yes, pun intended buttbenzz.
1) Two engine options I could get within my time crunch:
a) rebuilt short block for $9,000 with warranty (out of Cali)
b) rebuilt-sleeved-balanced-forged piston short block for near the same price with no warranty. (I chose the engine that could take the abuse?)
2) Getting the car in Park Place Grapevine without waiting 2 weeks was a miracle. I had to wait @1 week before tear down to access the damage.
3) Once the engine was put together, I had to break it in before dyno tuning and the race. Did the best I could do with what was given.
Factory bolts were a risk and we knew it. Shardul was against it but I couldn't have any more delays. That was my call......good, bad or indifferent.
I have repeated myself to a sh*t ton dudes here already. I don't know what more you want me to say? You douchebags keep trying to call me out on my head bolts. Really? I said the engine can take the abuse and the damn roaches come out of the cabinets to throw their butt-buddy-band-wagon-riding-racer-boy-sh*t-.02 to prove something? You win
you jumped on the band wagon?
don't leave. this is our first exchange together.
Either pull your head from your a*s or get a glass belly button so you can see where you are going. And for God's sake, wipe that sh*t off your mouth.
Yes it does and thank you.
My already decked heads and my aftermarket camshafts changed my compression slightly. Anybody? Let's mix that with near double factory boost on factory head bolts and running the hell out of it for over a mile? (Mercedes replaced both head bolts on my factory ML63 and CLK63. Detonation with my Texas 93 octane or Cylinder pressure?)
There are no signs of detonation and/or lean conditions on the pistons/plugs/valves. This was a cylinder pressure issue. Same set up as I listed above popped #8 cylinder with dual new fuel pumps/colder plugs/looped rail/550cc injectors on a Eurocharged Tune. Changed to 750cc injectors and BIP Tune and I lifted my heads. This is not a tune issue you stone throwing monkeys.
Sorry again, man. Good choice!
I was going to break it down and personally attack each of you f*cktards.......but that would be no different than any other thread that some of you asshats attempt to throw punches in.
never mind. lets do this.....
Curious on how you know what in the hell was going on at that time? You and a few here feel the need to keep calling me out on head bolts? (Getting them in the time crunch was the problem) Really? This has nothing to do with ANYTHING in this thread. STFU already.
It's called spare time mr rocket and I don't have much of it. Single dad of two can sometimes be time consuming. Football, Tennis and Basketball. Then again, you strike me as the kinda sperm donor that would let someone else do your fathering for you.
News flash sparky, you won't take me in the mile without giggle. Period.
why do you keep bringing up the GOD DAMN RODS? WHY IN THE F*** DO I NEED RACING RODS WITH A FACTORY BLOWER?
You keep reaching. It's getting old.
3 weeks is plenty of time to get ARP head studs. I got mine overnight and not from Weistec. You just gotta know what you're doing, not just buy whatever someone tells you to. The sleeves are not the weak point in the M113 FYI so sleeving a motor for "safety" to run a measly 16 PSI is a joke, just like you.
Dude, if you are going to snuggle with me every time I post something, give me your number and we'll meet for lunch. I like to get to know someone before I marry them?
How about we get things straight. Yes, pun intended buttbenzz.
1) Two engine options I could get within my time crunch:
a) rebuilt short block for $9,000 with warranty (out of Cali)
b) rebuilt-sleeved-balanced-forged piston short block for near the same price with no warranty. (I chose the engine that could take the abuse?)
2) Getting the car in Park Place Grapevine without waiting 2 weeks was a miracle. I had to wait @1 week before tear down to access the damage.
3) Once the engine was put together, I had to break it in before dyno tuning and the race. Did the best I could do with what was given.
Factory bolts were a risk and we knew it. Shardul was against it but I couldn't have any more delays. That was my call......good, bad or indifferent.
Did you crack the sleeves in your motor to say that sleeves are the weak point and upgraded for safety? Again you could've had ARP head studs if you or the people that built your motor knew what they were doing. 16 PSI is "max boost"? LMAO. You should've built it right and missed your event. Liting heads is due to detonation, again you know nothing and just run your mouth. You might wanna try running into a brick wall
don't leave. this is our first exchange together.
Either pull your head from your a*s or get a glass belly button so you can see where you are going. And for God's sake, wipe that sh*t off your mouth.
My already decked heads and my aftermarket camshafts changed my compression slightly. Anybody? Let's mix that with near double factory boost on factory head bolts and running the hell out of it for over a mile? (Mercedes replaced both head bolts on my factory ML63 and CLK63. Detonation with my Texas 93 octane or Cylinder pressure?)
There are no signs of detonation and/or lean conditions on the pistons/plugs/valves. This was a cylinder pressure issue. Same set up as I listed above popped #8 cylinder with dual new fuel pumps/colder plugs/looped rail/550cc injectors on a Eurocharged Tune. Changed to 750cc injectors and BIP Tune and I lifted my heads. This is not a tune issue you stone throwing monkeys.
Sorry again, man. Good choice!
#25
MBWorld Fanatic!
The more you talk the more people see how stupid you really are. PS your sperm donor remark is really funny since I have 4 kids with 1 being adopted but I can for sure see the "single" dad of 2. I would guess different women because the odds are you can't keep 1 around for very long