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I have seen Oil Catch Can DIYs for the stock TBs with the vacuum inlet port, but not for those of us with larger TBs without the port. I felt that we need some way to keep the oil out of intake system & I didn't like that 2 ports on the valve covers were just open. I have come up with solution using the large hose from the left Y-Pipe as the vacuum source. It may not be the best or only solution, but it works. So, here it is:
A) The catch can: After lots of research into the theory & effectiveness of the different kinds of filter materials at trapping the microscopic oil particles suspended in the vented air stream, I chose the High Efficiency model from Conceptual Polymer with 3/8" nipples: http://www.conceptualpolymer.com/Hig...ency%20Air.htm. The quality of the product is very impressive. B) The other required materials & parts:
5/8" Power Steering Hose (prepackaged 18" in length) & cut to lengths as needed
3/8" Fuel Hose (I got 7 feet to play with) & cut to lengths as needed
3/8"x3/8"x3/8" Tee (brass or plastic)
5/8"x5/8"x3/8" Heater Hose Tee
5/8' to 3/8" Brass Reducers X 2
Hose clamps of your choice
Sheet metal screws for mounting the catch can
3/8" NPT male to 3/8" brass nipple (straight) to replace one of the 90 degree nipples that comes with the catch can
OEM large hose from the left Y-Pipe
C) Basic Diagram of the Layout:
D) Installation & Pics:
Remove air boxes & large hose from the left Y-Pipe
Attach 1 end of the 3/8" fuel hose to the left valve cover & route it around the back of the engine below the TB to a point near the right valve cover & cut.
Attach 1 end of the 5/8" power steering hose to the large port on the left valve cover & route it behind the engine above the 1st hose to a point a little past the 1st hose & cut.
Attach 1 end of the 3/8" hose to the port on the right valve cover & cut it near the end of the 1st hose.
Connect the ends of the 2 3/8" hoses with the 3/8" tee & clamp.
Cut an approximately 3 - 3.5" long piece of the 5/8" hose, connect & clamp it to the perpendicular nipple on the heater hose tee. Then, connect & clamp the other 5/8" hose.
Connect & clamp one of the 5/8" to 3/8" reducers to one end of another piece of the 3/8" hose. Then, connect & clamp it to the short piece of 5/8" hose previously connected to the heater hose tee.
Loop the 3/8" hose from the reducer around to the 3/8" tee, cut & clamp it to the tee.
Connect another piece of 3/8" hose to the 3/8" nipple on the heater hose tee.
Drill/cut a 1/2" hole in the plastic access piece on the right side of the wall between the right side of the engine & fender well.
Remove the Cabin filter housing & find a convienent spot for the catch can, mark & drill holes for the mounting bracket & attach it.
Teflon tape the straight NPT nipple on the inlet side of the catch can & the 90 degree nipple on the vacuum side.
Attach the oil can to the bracket with the vacuum side toward the passenger compartment. Reinstall the cabin filter housing.
Pass the 3/8" hose from the heater hose tee through the 1/2" hole, cut to appropriate lenght, connect & clamp to the straight nipple on the can.
Cut a 1/2" hole (or cut an X) in the rubber plug in the wall behind the right valve cover.
Connect & clamp 3/8" hose to the 90 degree nipple on the vacuum side of the can & pass it through the rubber plug in the wall.
Cut the hose near the point where the right surge tank curves upward. Connect & clamp it to the other reducer.
Connect the end of the large OEM hose to the large end of the reducer.
Reinstall the air boxes & reattach the large hose to the left Y-Pipe.
nice
try to put the feed line for the PCV post TB, you will get a stronger vacuum source
there is enough room on the bottom of the TB to put a brass barb
Very nice, clean work! Be careful using fuel line for engine vacuum, many are very soft and flexible and can collapse under strong engine vacuum (cutting off flow)
For this reason rubber vacuum hose is internally braided and fairly firm, though any reasonably stiff auto hose will normally do the trick (e.g. P/s or engine oil hose)
Does anyone know if any websites make it possible to "build" a shopping cart that contained all the parts needed for a custom job such as this? Wouldn't it be cool to have one person create the cart with everything already in it and you can just order with a click or two?
I guess I should've been more specific. I used fuel injector rated fuel line that has internal braiding & is stiff enough to handle the vacuum. Thanks for pointing that out, I should've put that fact in the parts list.
Very nice, clean work! Be careful using fuel line for engine vacuum, many are very soft and flexible and can collapse under strong engine vacuum (cutting off flow)
For this reason rubber vacuum hose is internally braided and fairly firm, though any reasonably stiff auto hose will normally do the trick (e.g. P/s or engine oil hose)
Where were you today??? I finally routed all my hoses, tucked them away neatly, hooked it all up and...sh*t! Fuel hose collapsed on me under vacuum... Starting from scratch soon. =(
V-AMG,
Sorry you had problems. I haven't had any issues with the fuel injector hoses I used, they have never collapsed on me & I now have a Weistec SC. Wish I knew what to tell you. Anyone else have any suggestions?
I have seen Oil Catch Can DIYs for the stock TBs with the vacuum inlet port, but not for those of us with larger TBs without the port. I felt that we need some way to keep the oil out of intake system & I didn't like that 2 ports on the valve covers were just open. I have come up with solution using the large hose from the left Y-Pipe as the vacuum source. It may not be the best or only solution, but it works. So, here it is:
A) The catch can: After lots of research into the theory & effectiveness of the different kinds of filter materials at trapping the microscopic oil particles suspended in the vented air stream, I chose the High Efficiency model from Conceptual Polymer with 3/8" nipples: http://www.conceptualpolymer.com/Hig...ency%20Air.htm. The quality of the product is very impressive. B) The other required materials & parts:
5/8" Power Steering Hose (prepackaged 18" in length) & cut to lengths as needed
3/8" Fuel Hose (I got 7 feet to play with) & cut to lengths as needed
3/8"x3/8"x3/8" Tee (brass or plastic)
5/8"x5/8"x3/8" Heater Hose Tee
5/8' to 3/8" Brass Reducers X 2
Hose clamps of your choice
Sheet metal screws for mounting the catch can
3/8" NPT male to 3/8" brass nipple (straight) to replace one of the 90 degree nipples that comes with the catch can
OEM large hose from the left Y-Pipe
C) Basic Diagram of the Layout:
D) Installation & Pics:
Remove air boxes & large hose from the left Y-Pipe
Attach 1 end of the 3/8" fuel hose to the left valve cover & route it around the back of the engine below the TB to a point near the right valve cover & cut.
Attach 1 end of the 5/8" power steering hose to the large port on the left valve cover & route it behind the engine above the 1st hose to a point a little past the 1st hose & cut.
Attach 1 end of the 3/8" hose to the port on the right valve cover & cut it near the end of the 1st hose.
Connect the ends of the 2 3/8" hoses with the 3/8" tee & clamp.
Cut an approximately 3 - 3.5" long piece of the 5/8" hose, connect & clamp it to the perpendicular nipple on the heater hose tee. Then, connect & clamp the other 5/8" hose.
Connect & clamp one of the 5/8" to 3/8" reducers to one end of another piece of the 3/8" hose. Then, connect & clamp it to the short piece of 5/8" hose previously connected to the heater hose tee.
Loop the 3/8" hose from the reducer around to the 3/8" tee, cut & clamp it to the tee.
Connect another piece of 3/8" hose to the 3/8" nipple on the heater hose tee.
Drill/cut a 1/2" hole in the plastic access piece on the right side of the wall between the right side of the engine & fender well.
Remove the Cabin filter housing & find a convienent spot for the catch can, mark & drill holes for the mounting bracket & attach it.
Teflon tape the straight NPT nipple on the inlet side of the catch can & the 90 degree nipple on the vacuum side.
Attach the oil can to the bracket with the vacuum side toward the passenger compartment. Reinstall the cabin filter housing.
Pass the 3/8" hose from the heater hose tee through the 1/2" hole, cut to appropriate lenght, connect & clamp to the straight nipple on the can.
Cut a 1/2" hole (or cut an X) in the rubber plug in the wall behind the right valve cover.
Connect & clamp 3/8" hose to the 90 degree nipple on the vacuum side of the can & pass it through the rubber plug in the wall.
Cut the hose near the point where the right surge tank curves upward. Connect & clamp it to the other reducer.
Connect the end of the large OEM hose to the large end of the reducer.
Reinstall the air boxes & reattach the large hose to the left Y-Pipe.
Any comments/criticisms/questions welcome.
So wait what if i have the hose that usually goes into the intake with just a mini breather filter? im currently running that setup with my oil catch can because of my custom intake, ive also been trying to figure out this idling and rpm issue, is it because i have that hose connection with just a mini breather filter instead of routing it to my intake y pipe?
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