travhwrd

Hello all,
I plan to purchase some enkei rs05rr for my 05 w211, but it's hard for me to find answers to my questions. Being as most people go to 19s or 20s.
So here we go...
I plan to run:
18x9.5 et35 fronts with 265/35/18 Michelin pss
18x10.5 et35 rears with 295/35/18
Lowered about an inch below sport2 with links.
I want to keep negative camber to a minimum, as this is mainly for more traction/less weight over the stock wheels.
I will also be running wobble bolts and hubcentric rings so that I can run the 5x114 and have wheels that are easier to sell down the road.

How are we looking with these measurements?
I don't want to run spacers, or roll the fenders.

Thanks in advance!

- travis

travhwrd

Bump

coolchuck

I think the offset is too high in the front. I tried a 9.5 et 35 in front and the barrell rubbed the calipers. There is a member running 9.5 up front with et28 I believe. It has good clearance and sit pretty flush.
The rears? I got nothing. Sorry

travhwrd

I'm wondering if it was because of the barrel inner bore itself, most enkei wheels are made to accept bigger brakes.
I don't want to, nor can I run spacers with wobble bolts...
Not sure what size they may have with a better et and "mid concave" face

desired_speeds

your 295s will not fit with 35 offset.

travhwrd

What about 285? I just put on a 77mm fsp and belt wrap kit. As well as the plm heat exchanger and 010 pump. The car eats the 265s like nothing
I need something that can handle it better, and fit

GorGasm

What tires are you using? Perhaps try running semis on the back?

travhwrd

Michelin pilot super sports

E55Greasemonkey

You'll need mid-40's or so ET in the rear on an 18x10.5

travhwrd

I've read that people have ran 18x10.5 I'm 19s and 20s. Et35.
I've also heard that any higher than 35, and the tires may hit the inside of the well on the back side of the wheel, causing the "fishtail" people talk about...

E55Greasemonkey

I'm running widened 18x10's on the rear, originally 18x9 with ET 35, if you want to do the math, I added 1" to the inside of the wheel. Running 285/35/18.

travhwrd

But wouldn't that be different than adding 1.5 inches to the wheel, .75 inside and outside?
Are you rubbing or anything?

E55Greasemonkey

Yes it's different, you'd have to figure out the calculations with the offset. I'm not rubbing anything, and have maybe 1/2" clearance on the inside, however I have some "prototype" upper control arm bushings to reduce my negative camber to about half a degree, so the top of my tire is pushed out over a stock setup...but even without those bushings it did not hit anything, another 1/2" on the inside rim would be close, depending on tire size. My 285's are almost worn out, I will be going to a 295/30 to see how it works out. Here is my wheel thread, if it helps:

https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...weldcraft.html

The way to fit aftermarket wheel/tire combos is to pick the tire size that you want, or that fits, then choose the wheel width and offset, if that makes sense. In theory you would test fit a tire by itself where you want it to go, without a wheel, with the car on jack stands, then figure out what wheel you need.

The 295/35 you want is a bit tall for my liking on the rear. Not many tire choices in 18's for our cars unfortunately. Something like a 305/30 in back might work, if anyone made one, or a theoretical size (height) between the 285/35 and 295/30...the 285 is a bit tall and the 295 is a bit short.

HeissRod

This is the first time I have heard this. The "fishtail" or wagging back and forth under acceleration is caused by bad rear alignments values.

travhwrd

Well, I'm hoping these wheels work. Because I have already ordered the rears. And being as the michelin pss are on national back order (what my tire guy told me) I'm gonna probably have to get some 285/35/18s that I've found slightly used on craigslist. The 265s that are on now, just can't even come close to handling the power, and the tune isn't even done yet...

AgSilver

You should really consider installing rear toe links such as those offered by Shardul. This will provide greatly improved stability under hard acceleration and will take the associated stress off the rear sub-frame, thereby eliminating the chance of shearing the sub-frame bolts.

travhwrd

For sure, just need to make sure I can get the wheels to fit first