I'm not 100% what this is but I can trigger it when putting it in neutral at a drive through. It runs 100% even after it gets the strange hiccup it's just not as loud as it usually is but full power is or seems to be available. No codes. The car usually gets a lumpy idle for a second, and then evens out. It has a custom dyno tune by SoloMotorsports (first and only tune by them, never had issues like this with BIP...but I was using a can performance tune from BIP). The car does not have the rev stumble in gear but it also doesn't have the supercharger "bark" like it normally does. A super quick restart will solve all
I have one-step colder plugs and it seems to only to this when it's cold out. I may of answered my own question but what does the MB gods say?
Hiccup/Stumble mode (engine warm, running for 30 minutes on the highway/city)
Shutting the engine off for 5 seconds and restarting. Back to normal...
FWIW: My mods are in my signature but I do NOT performance pulleys. Stock crank and stock SC pulley.
I have one-step colder plugs and it seems to only to this when it's cold out. I may of answered my own question but what does the MB gods say?
Hiccup/Stumble mode (engine warm, running for 30 minutes on the highway/city)
Shutting the engine off for 5 seconds and restarting. Back to normal...
FWIW: My mods are in my signature but I do NOT performance pulleys. Stock crank and stock SC pulley.
remove pedal box and see if that does it ,,,,, then get solo to retune or go to stock and check,,, the use bip again
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I don't think the PedalBox is the issue since it seems more engine related. But it could be creating too much "throttle input". I'll turn it off next time that happens and see what changes. I'll have Solo look at it. I need to drive it to them while it's having the hiccup. Originally Posted by hayseed
remove pedal box and see if that does it ,,,,, then get solo to retune or go to stock and check,,, the use bip again
Thanks for the input.
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It's a shot in the dark but I have had an American made v8 do the same thing. It ended up being a coil pack.
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I had wires and plugs done at the same time but never coil packs. I don't know if these are the originals or not. Would a bad/failing coil pack throw a code? I'll double check the codes next time it happensOriginally Posted by Ls1toAMG
It's a shot in the dark but I have had an American made v8 do the same thing. It ended up being a coil pack.
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Can you try flashing ECU back to stock? I had problems with my tuning and when I went back to stock all the problems went away.
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A bad coil pack will not always throw a code so long as one of the ports fire off. Do your RPMs drop a bit during shifts or when you begin to accelerate? If so, check the connections between the spark plug wires and the coil packs. The leads bend easily if you're not careful when connecting the wires and could be causing your issue.Originally Posted by 2000UZJ
I had wires and plugs done at the same time but never coil packs. I don't know if these are the originals or not. Would a bad/failing coil pack throw a code? I'll double check the codes next time it happens
-OA
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-OA
The RPM's do not drop during shifts. A rough idle occurs and the car feels like it reverts to a safe mode of slight power reduction in which the car is not as loud (my car is extremely loud). A quick restart solves all for a month or so. I will inspect the wires and snoop around under the hood. I just remembered we have 2 plugs per cylinder...I may have a dead single plug/wireOriginally Posted by O-55
A bad coil pack will not always throw a code so long as one of the ports fire off. Do your RPMs drop a bit during shifts or when you begin to accelerate? If so, check the connections between the spark plug wires and the coil packs. The leads bend easily if you're not careful when connecting the wires and could be causing your issue.-OA
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