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Upgrade your MAP sensor to the latest model. It's not listed in WIS for American models, but the European does. Search and you'll find the part number (I think it's listed in a throttle body related thread).
Would also be a good time to do the valve cover gaskets, clean up the supercharger, check/replace the O-rings on the fuel dampener on the fuel rail, have the fuel injectors cleaned and flow tested, use a shop-vac to clean out all the crap in the vee of the engine, pop the intercooler off the supercharger so you can degrease the insides, check and grease the rear bearings of the supercharger (need to remove the inlet), check/replace the crank position sensor, add an oil catch can, and maybe a few other things.
Upgrade your MAP sensor to the latest model. It's not listed in WIS for American models, but the European does. Search and you'll find the part number (I think it's listed in a throttle body related thread).
The MAP is a great idea since it's a real ball buster to access. I searched but can't find the updated MAP sensor. I'm assuming replacing the sensor with a stock one is good enough?
Originally Posted by Denroll
Add a nozzle for meth injection, maybe?
Would also be a good time to do the valve cover gaskets, clean up the supercharger, check/replace the O-rings on the fuel dampener on the fuel rail, have the fuel injectors cleaned and flow tested, use a shop-vac to clean out all the crap in the vee of the engine, pop the intercooler off the supercharger so you can degrease the insides, check and grease the rear bearings of the supercharger (need to remove the inlet), check/replace the crank position sensor, add an oil catch can, and maybe a few other things.
Absolutely! Excellent references. Here's my work in progress:
VCG's (Frantically clean and paint them while I'm at it)
Replace gaskets - if needed
Remove SC
Remove intake
Replace CPS
HE upgrade
Bosch 010 Pump
Wires & Plugs
BWK
TB upgrade
Injectors cleaned
I'm planning to add a catch and look at the SC intercooler. I need to research this a bit more...Are there and DIY for these items? Is changing the SC oil recommended/necessary @ 80K?
2005 E55, 2007 ML63, 2008 SLK, 2015 GLK350, BMW Z3, Dodge Power Wagon, Electric Smart car
If you separate the intercooler from the supercharger best to replace the 2 bypass valve gaskets. I have had CEL lights caused by reusing these 2 gaskets. Sucks when you have to pull the SC a second time for $8 worth of gaskets.
Part # 1131411080 & part # 2711411280
Upgrade your MAP sensor to the latest model. It's not listed in WIS for American models, but the European does. Search and you'll find the part number (I think it's listed in a throttle body related thread).
I personally would replace the oil cooler gaskets even if they aren't leaking. I need to do mine and it's looking like I will have to remove the SC just to be able to access the 4 screws holding it together. My three piece seal ring kit has a part number of 112 184 99 61 - FE- KT
While we're on the topic, are there any special tools needed or a DIY thread somewhere that shows how to pull the SC? Can it be done by one person or do you need a buddy or a cherry picker?
While we're on the topic, are there any special tools needed or a DIY thread somewhere that shows how to pull the SC? Can it be done by one person or do you need a buddy or a cherry picker?
No special tools required. I've removed the sc several times by myself, but I make Arnold look like Stephen Hawking.
Take pics of all the locations of the little hoses and things like that before beginning. I can do it in about an hour, so count on about 90 minutes if it's your first time.
I did a step-by-step write-up here once. I'll see if I can find it.
It's actually not that hard, just a little time consuming. Going by memory here...
-Drain s/c coolant (disconnect the hose coming from bottom of heat exchanger)
-Remove air boxes and Y-pipe
-Remove surge tanks (7 bolts + 1 rubber boot that connects to inlet for each tank)
-Unplug fuel injectors
-Disconnect fuel rail (have rags/paper towels handy)
-Remove the four bolts that hold the rail down
-Pull the rail and 8 injectors for inspect & clean time
-Unplug MAP sensor, IAT sensor, TB, & bypass valve. The cables for the TB & bypass valve can be interchanged. I used blue tape on both parts of the bypass valve connector for ID.
-Remove s/c belt (17mm box wrench for the tensioner)
-Remove metal tube going into back right side of s/c inlet.
-Pull those rubber tubes on the front of the s/c
-Remove the 8 or 10 bolts holding down the supercharger (down around where the fuel injector holes are). It takes a fairly large Torx bit.
-Move the air injector canisters off to the side, taking note of what hoses needed to be disconnected. Be mindful of the small metal gaskets on the bottom of each canister. They are reuseable.
-Lift front of supercharger and prop it up. I have a short piece of a 2x4 that works great.
-Disconnect the coolant hoses from the intercooler.
-Lift the supercharger up and away from the car. Keep the front tilted up because the intercooler will still have water in it that will pour out if you don't. Keep in mind this thing weighs like 75 lbs, so unless you have massively muscular arms like Denroll, it might be a 2-man lift.
-Get those gaskets, then tape up the engine intakes so **** doesn't fall into your engine. Also a good time to see if your valves have excess carbon buildup.
It sounds a lot worse than it is. I can go from hood closed to supercharger on my workbench in an hour. Take pictures as you go in case you forget what goes where.
Would also be a good time to...check and grease the rear bearings of the supercharger (need to remove the inlet), add an oil catch can, and maybe a few other things.
Is there any instructions on greasing the rear SC bearings and adding a catch can?
I was able to remove the SC by myself thanks to Denroll's tips. I propped a 2x4 just in front of the SC while lifting it and then sliding the piece of wood underneath the SC. Slowly pulled the charger onto the wood making it a lot easier to grab. Once the SC is closer to your body it's a piece of cake lifting it and placing it on your workbench.
If you have an engine puller handy, do yourself a favor and make a plate to suspend the SC from it. I recently had mine out to change the bypass throttle and add an 82mm snout. Pulling it out by hand was not so hard with my son lifting one side while I got the other. However, faced with re-installing it on my own, I modified I lifting plate (bolt-on in place of carb style) to fit the SC and it was a BREEZE putting it back in by myself.
While I had it out I also added a port on one plenum for a boost gauge sender (to be installed later) AND I wish I had replaced the MAP sensor.
^Good idea. If you don't have an engine hoist, you can use some metal rods that go through the bolt holes to use as guides. Use vice grips on the rods to hold the supercharger in place while you connect the hoses.
Since I went with 3/4" hose to the intercooler, I made the hoses a little longer than necessary so I can move the supercharger into an easier place to connect/disconnect the hoses.
Originally Posted by djempirE55
Is there any instructions on greasing the rear SC bearings and adding a catch can?
It's actually not that hard, just a little time consuming. Going by memory here...
-Drain s/c coolant (disconnect the hose coming from bottom of heat exchanger)
-Remove air boxes and Y-pipe
-Remove surge tanks (7 bolts + 1 rubber boot that connects to inlet for each tank)
-Unplug fuel injectors
-Disconnect fuel rail (have rags/paper towels handy)
-Remove the four bolts that hold the rail down
-Pull the rail and 8 injectors for inspect & clean time
-Unplug MAP sensor, IAT sensor, TB, & bypass valve. The cables for the TB & bypass valve can be interchanged. I used blue tape on both parts of the bypass valve connector for ID.
-Remove s/c belt (17mm box wrench for the tensioner)
-Remove metal tube going into back right side of s/c inlet.
-Pull those rubber tubes on the front of the s/c
-Remove the 8 or 10 bolts holding down the supercharger (down around where the fuel injector holes are). It takes a fairly large Torx bit.
-Move the air injector canisters off to the side, taking note of what hoses needed to be disconnected. Be mindful of the small metal gaskets on the bottom of each canister. They are reuseable.
-Lift front of supercharger and prop it up. I have a short piece of a 2x4 that works great.
-Disconnect the coolant hoses from the intercooler.
-Lift the supercharger up and away from the car. Keep the front tilted up because the intercooler will still have water in it that will pour out if you don't. Keep in mind this thing weighs like 75 lbs, so unless you have massively muscular arms like Denroll, it might be a 2-man lift.
-Get those gaskets, then tape up the engine intakes so **** doesn't fall into your engine. Also a good time to see if your valves have excess carbon buildup.
It sounds a lot worse than it is. I can go from hood closed to supercharger on my workbench in an hour. Take pictures as you go in case you forget what goes where.
Is there a rubber boot for each inlet or is it a single gasket? I want to replace mine when I pull my SC off but I can't seem to find anything that resembles a single boot on EPC. All I can find is a gasket for both the right and left side. Do you have a part number or something for reference?
Also, Do you have torque specs handy for when it's time to bolt everything up or do you go by feel?
Almost feel like I should invest in a time trial for the WIS lol
I'm gathering a shopping list for when I undertake this project in the sping and this is what I have made up so far. Feel free to let me know if I need to add something or remove unnecessary..
Rheotemp 500 grease for rear bearings.. Ebay
MAP sensor # 005 153 72 28
Crankshaft Position Sensor #003 153 28 28
Mercedes pre mixed coolant
Fuel dampener O rings.. - I can't find these on EPC either.. Are they the same as the injector o rings or am I looking in the wrong place?
Fuel injector O rings (8) # A 019 997 13 48
OEM intake air filters (I have K&N and am going to switch back)
Electronic gas actuator to intake gasket #112 141 13 80 (Is this necessary?)
Intake Air Temperature sensor (Can't find part number)
SC to head gasket (lower gasket) X2 #113 141 09 80