W211 AMG Discuss the W211 AMG's such as the E55 and the E63

Meth/Water injection nozzle location vs Sensor

Old Mar 10, 2016 | 05:30 PM
  #1  
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Meth/Water injection nozzle location vs Sensor

Hi all

I have been playing around with water injection for a while. Went up to a DO10 nozzle pre SC with little to no IAT benfits.

I am going to be removing the SC soon to install 2 x nozzles after the IC before the IAT sensor. (one on each side)

However, I have read a couple of times that this location will damage the MAP sensor. Is this the case?

Would like to be 100% sure before I drill

Has anybody thought about re-locating the IAT sensor and running the nozzles in the surge tanks. It would be difficult to find a new location that gets an accurate reading.
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Old Mar 10, 2016 | 06:41 PM
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I am going through the same process right now too. I think I'm going to put a nozzle in the little square pad on the bottom of the intercooler, right after the core. That way it will be shooting straight up and in the middle of the airstream.

I've been trying to figure out why nobody else has done this but I haven't gotten an answer yet, so I guess I'll try it and see how it goes.
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Old Mar 10, 2016 | 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by JoeJErnst
I am going through the same process right now too. I think I'm going to put a nozzle in the little square pad on the bottom of the intercooler, right after the core. That way it will be shooting straight up and in the middle of the airstream.

I've been trying to figure out why nobody else has done this but I haven't gotten an answer yet, so I guess I'll try it and see how it goes.
I suspect it will be a clearance issues once the supercharger is installed again.

I think I am going to put 2 do5 nozzles on either side, after the map but before the iat sensor. Having the spray just before the iat sensor will not affect the temperature accuracy That much, as temperate sensors aren't affected by "wind chill".

The only issue would be if the water/meth mix is hot or cold, but it will always be cooler than the charge air temperature anyway I think.
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Old Mar 10, 2016 | 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by alexanderfoti
I suspect it will be a clearance issues once the supercharger is installed again.
That's what I thought, but I measured it and there is 2" of space between the valley of the "V" and the bottom of the I/C outlet. My 90-deg nozzle only needs about 0.5".
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Old Mar 10, 2016 | 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by JoeJErnst
That's what I thought, but I measured it and there is 2" of space between the valley of the "V" and the bottom of the I/C outlet. My 90-deg nozzle only needs about 0.5".
If I remember from when I did mine there is enough room down there but the only hold back that kept me from doing that was how hard it would be to change nozzle while tweaking the system.
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Old Apr 25, 2016 | 04:13 PM
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Just in case anybody else is looking for the info, I have just finished my install. I ended up putting it slightly past the small pad at the bottom, one on each side.

After the MAP sensor but before the IAT sensor. Its a bit close to the IAT sensor but I didn't want to kill MAP sensors (which I have heard can happen). Its pretty tight once the supercharger is installed, but its ok.

I have 2 DO7 nozzles used at 50% duty cycle. No bogging down etc. Really good IAT's. Will have better numbers after some drag racing at the end of the month.
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Old Apr 25, 2016 | 04:50 PM
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Old Apr 25, 2016 | 05:39 PM
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use SS braided lines. All the plastic ones will eventually melt and fail due to the heat in the valley pan.
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Old Apr 25, 2016 | 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by shardul
use SS braided lines. All the plastic ones will eventually melt and fail due to the heat in the valley pan.
Thanks, will do!
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Old Apr 25, 2016 | 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by shardul
use SS braided lines. All the plastic ones will eventually melt and fail due to the heat in the valley pan.
Beware the Devilsown braided hose. The steel inserts (inside) where the crimps are became rusted on my setup,not only clogging the nozzle screens but almost causing a near disaster as the rusted particles caused my solenoid to stick open,sucking in water and meth at idle. If their customer service wasn't so ****ty I would have contacted them, but I'm not in the mood to re-plumb my whole system.
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Old Apr 25, 2016 | 10:36 PM
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Originally Posted by E55Greasemonkey
Beware the Devilsown braided hose. The steel inserts (inside) where the crimps are became rusted on my setup,not only clogging the nozzle screens but almost causing a near disaster as the rusted particles caused my solenoid to stick open,sucking in water and meth at idle. If their customer service wasn't so ****ty I would have contacted them, but I'm not in the mood to re-plumb my whole system.
****. I just ordered these but they're on backorder. Found what I needed on jegs/summit. Is it the fittings or hose that rust?

Last edited by SterlingE55; Apr 25, 2016 at 10:49 PM.
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Old Apr 25, 2016 | 11:08 PM
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Nicely done.

What kind of temp drop have you seen so far and what level boost are you at?

Originally Posted by alexanderfoti
Just in case anybody else is looking for the info, I have just finished my install. I ended up putting it slightly past the small pad at the bottom, one on each side.

After the MAP sensor but before the IAT sensor. Its a bit close to the IAT sensor but I didn't want to kill MAP sensors (which I have heard can happen). Its pretty tight once the supercharger is installed, but its ok.

I have 2 DO7 nozzles used at 50% duty cycle. No bogging down etc. Really good IAT's. Will have better numbers after some drag racing at the end of the month.
Reply
Old Apr 26, 2016 | 03:30 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by E55Greasemonkey
Beware the Devilsown braided hose. The steel inserts (inside) where the crimps are became rusted on my setup,not only clogging the nozzle screens but almost causing a near disaster as the rusted particles caused my solenoid to stick open,sucking in water and meth at idle. If their customer service wasn't so ****ty I would have contacted them, but I'm not in the mood to re-plumb my whole system.
I find that their hose is also really expensive! I think i'm just going to cover this in heat reflective fiber tape for the moment.
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Old Apr 26, 2016 | 03:32 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by nanayaw6
What kind of temp drop have you seen so far and what level boost are you at?
ambient 6c, short run from 1st to 2nd max IAT 20c.

I will get some more info once I can do some proper runs, as it was late and I did'nt want to drive far.

AT 15psi ish, with 180/stock upper.

Last edited by alexanderfoti; Apr 26, 2016 at 03:54 AM.
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Old May 3, 2016 | 12:00 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by alexanderfoti
Hi all

I have been playing around with water injection for a while. Went up to a DO10 nozzle pre SC with little to no IAT benfits.

I am going to be removing the SC soon to install 2 x nozzles after the IC before the IAT sensor. (one on each side)

However, I have read a couple of times that this location will damage the MAP sensor. Is this the case?

Would like to be 100% sure before I drill

Has anybody thought about re-locating the IAT sensor and running the nozzles in the surge tanks. It would be difficult to find a new location that gets an accurate reading.

Why would it be difficult? Just unplug the original sensor and buy a new one extend 2 wires and put the IAT sensor on the surge tanks like EREBUS.
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Old May 3, 2016 | 02:38 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Max.H
Why would it be difficult? Just unplug the original sensor and buy a new one extend 2 wires and put the IAT sensor on the surge tanks like EREBUS.
What are the specs of the IAT sensor?




This looks like a ball ache to retain into one surge tank, is there a threaded sensor with the same specs.
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Old May 3, 2016 | 03:15 AM
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Originally Posted by alexanderfoti
What are the specs of the IAT sensor?




This looks like a ball ache to retain into one surge tank, is there a threaded sensor with the same specs.
Not sure of the specs. If you find the right drill bit size for that plug it should work. If not, someone on here will know if the IAT sensor can be interchanged with another type that threads in.
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Old May 3, 2016 | 03:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Max.H
Not sure of the specs. If you find the right drill bit size for that plug it should work. If not, someone on here will know if the IAT sensor can be interchanged with another type that threads in.
Getting a bit more difficult now

Drilling the hole is the easy bit, finding the boss or an electrically compatible threaded sensor is harder.

EdIT: Found this from greasemonkey if others are searching https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ml#post6071469

Last edited by alexanderfoti; May 3, 2016 at 03:24 AM.
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Old May 3, 2016 | 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by alexanderfoti
I find that their hose is also really expensive! I think i'm just going to cover this in heat reflective fiber tape for the moment.
Could use some nomex hose sleeving as well. Good for like 600F+. I noticed a single .7mm nozzle drops my IAT's sub ambient and I've had to dial back the IDC ratio to roughly -15% for optimal gains... Good luck mate and have fun!
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Old May 3, 2016 | 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by jmb614
Could use some nomex hose sleeving as well. Good for like 600F+. I noticed a single .7mm nozzle drops my IAT's sub ambient and I've had to dial back the IDC ratio to roughly -15% for optimal gains... Good luck mate and have fun!
That's what I ended up doing. The Devilsown stuff can be ridiculously overpriced for what it is sometimes.

Managed to get access all the hosing up to the nozzles with the SC in place, and covered it in Aluminium & Silicone Coated Glass Braided Sleeving up until the pump
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Old Sep 16, 2017 | 03:37 AM
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Hi Alex, ok so found your thread finally regarding the location of your nozzles. I guess you are still running it the way you have shown in your pics above. I have a few questions for you if you don't mind, as I will be moving my nozzle to your location as well adding a second nozzle, as I only have 1 currently pre - TB as you have read.

In your pics above is the sensor to the left of your nozzles the MAP I take it? If so then where is the IAT sensor? Or did you already remove it from this pic, trying to see if I need to relocate the sensor or not.
Also have you got anymore info regarding how your system is functioning and your results that you getting? Have you had the system on and off for dyno results etc? Thanks mate. I'm sure I will have a few more questions, as we tackling this job on Monday. Oh yes when you refitted the intercooler to the SC, I believe there is no gasket therethere, did you use silicone or some kind of gasket maker there?
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Old Sep 21, 2017 | 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by C32owner
Hi Alex, ok so found your thread finally regarding the location of your nozzles. I guess you are still running it the way you have shown in your pics above. I have a few questions for you if you don't mind, as I will be moving my nozzle to your location as well adding a second nozzle, as I only have 1 currently pre - TB as you have read.

In your pics above is the sensor to the left of your nozzles the MAP I take it? If so then where is the IAT sensor? Or did you already remove it from this pic, trying to see if I need to relocate the sensor or not.
Also have you got anymore info regarding how your system is functioning and your results that you getting? Have you had the system on and off for dyno results etc? Thanks mate. I'm sure I will have a few more questions, as we tackling this job on Monday. Oh yes when you refitted the intercooler to the SC, I believe there is no gasket therethere, did you use silicone or some kind of gasket maker there?
Sorry completely forgot about this!

Yes that sensor to the left of the nozzles is the MAP. I relocated the IAT to the center of the bend before it goes up (the right in the picture). I used a NPT boss and drilled it out to the diameter of the IAT sensor and used a cir-clip for the plastic.tabs to latch onto.

No before and after dyno results, was primarily looking to keep IAT's low and it did that, I monitored them all the time.

The engine died with broken ring lands about 10,000 miles after this, but was unrelated to the meth injection.

There is no need to remove the Intercooler from the SC when doing this.
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Old Sep 21, 2017 | 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by alexanderfoti
The engine died with broken ring lands about 10,000 miles after this, but was unrelated to the meth injection.
Did you over-boost it or over-spray it? I've been wondering what the stock ring gaps will accommodate as far as boost and nitrous are concerned.
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Old Sep 21, 2017 | 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by JoeJErnst
Did you over-boost it or over-spray it? I've been wondering what the stock ring gaps will accommodate as far as boost and nitrous are concerned.
You cant really overspray, car will bog down and quench the spark before cylinder damage occurs.

Stock ring gaps are very tight. Pretty sure damaged occurred before I bought the car, as it always burned more oil than I would have liked.

Was running a 200mm(or was it 180?) pulley, so 14.5 psi ish, not over boosted either really. Just bad luck.

Possibly detonation that was not picked up by knock sensors.

Last edited by alexanderfoti; Sep 21, 2017 at 12:58 PM.
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Old Sep 21, 2017 | 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by alexanderfoti
You cant really overspray, car will bog down and quench the spark before cylinder damage occurs.

Stock ring gaps are very tight. Pretty sure damaged occurred before I bought the car, as it always burned more oil than I would have liked.

Was running a 200mm(or was it 180?) pulley, so 14.5 psi ish, not over boosted either really. Just bad luck.

Possibly detonation that was not picked up by knock sensors.
What size nozzles were you using on that dual set up?
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