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OK Guys, Sorry it's been awhile since I updated this thread. My wifes pregnant with our first so I been kinda busy. Not much time to mess with the garage queen.
So, I had my car raised up and I could see the front sway bar bushings everyone is saying will wear out and could have metal contact and that could cause the clicking noises. Well, I bought new sway bar bushings but my buddy and I looked and they didnt seem to be smashed up like I was expecting to see. Old ya. Dry ya. But, not chewed up. I should have snapped a pic but the front sway bar bushings did not look collapsed.
I forgot to remove the sway bar end links to go for a drive though. So. I will get back at it when my new arnott airmatic springs and shocks arrive.
There used to be some threads about clicking noises and I think someone said it was the airmatic shock itself. Don't quote me but, something about the original airmatic was making noises like I'm having. Anyone have experience with an airmatic front shock making clicking noises when going over bumps?
Will check update again to give you guys the final conclusion.
Followed your thread since day one as somewhat the same symptoms. I changed out front airmatics and it slowly went away as I thought it was the driver front strut. Still came back after a few days... I then changed LBJ and thrust arm but sound still there... Crunch sound over bumps or suspension drop on road dips. Finally changed out to Oem sway bar and all is well now. Either way I wanted to swap out the previous components but my visual on sway bar bush & end links looked fine at that time but suspension load is another devil. All is well now.
if your experiencing clicking noise while turning at lower speeds there is a TSB for e55 amg small black metal sub frame that steering rack is connected to flexes and make noise
if the noise is up and down could be any suspension component as front shocks they like to make noise especially rebuild arnott struts
Followed your thread since day one as somewhat the same symptoms. I changed out front airmatics and it slowly went away as I thought it was the driver front strut. Still came back after a few days... I then changed LBJ and thrust arm but sound still there... Crunch sound over bumps or suspension drop on road dips. Finally changed out to Oem sway bar and all is well now. Either way I wanted to swap out the previous components but my visual on sway bar bush & end links looked fine at that time but suspension load is another devil. All is well now.
Good luck on yours brother
That is a good point. Looking at the sway bar bushings up in the air is one thing, 4k lbs car weighing down on the sway bar bushings on the ground is another thing.
Ive got the new sway bar bushings ready to install as well as the power steering rack bushings
Was the sway bar swap easy or hard to do? Any tips?
if your experiencing clicking noise while turning at lower speeds there is a TSB for e55 amg small black metal sub frame that steering rack is connected to flexes and make noise
if the noise is up and down could be any suspension component as front shocks they like to make noise especially rebuild arnott struts
What kind of noises? Squeaks or like a clikity clack racket . I have factory airmatic shocks.
if your experiencing clicking noise while turning at lower speeds there is a TSB for e55 amg small black metal sub frame that steering rack is connected to flexes and make noise
My mechanic told me the same thing. I replaced the entire front end suspension (arms, sway bay, etc.) and I keep getting a slight popping sound at low speeds while parking or reversing and turning the wheel.
My mechanic said that you can slip a washer in between the rear bolts of this plate and it should stop the plate from rubbing the sub frame when it flexes. So I did that, and replaced the rack bushings at the same time. While its better, and while the steering feels great with the new bushings, I still get a quiet popping sound when turning during parking.
The only thing that is left that hasn't been replaced is the driver side strut. But, I don't understand how it could make noise while turning? I figured a bad strut on this car would cause airmatic issues, or an up/down motion based noise...
Ive got the new sway bar bushings ready to install as well as the power steering rack bushings
Was the sway bar swap easy or hard to do? Any tips?
Max- You've already got bushings? I didn't think the OEM bushings were available separately and that you had to purchase an entire new bar. Not that's it expensive, though.
I've used Wurth HHS-2000/HHS-K high pressure penetrating lubricating oil to silence the bushings, and it lasts for a good while.
My mechanic told me the same thing. I replaced the entire front end suspension (arms, sway bay, etc.) and I keep getting a slight popping sound at low speeds while parking or reversing and turning the wheel.
My mechanic said that you can slip a washer in between the rear bolts of this plate and it should stop the plate from rubbing the sub frame when it flexes. So I did that, and replaced the rack bushings at the same time. While its better, and while the steering feels great with the new bushings, I still get a quiet popping sound when turning during parking.
The only thing that is left that hasn't been replaced is the driver side strut. But, I don't understand how it could make noise while turning? I figured a bad strut on this car would cause airmatic issues, or an up/down motion based noise...
Popping noises while turning towards opposite lock, It should be the end joints on the steering rack.
Max- You've already got bushings? I didn't think the OEM bushings were available separately and that you had to purchase an entire new bar. Not that's it expensive, though.
I've used Wurth HHS-2000/HHS-K high pressure penetrating lubricating oil to silence the bushings, and it lasts for a good while.
I found a seller on ebay he had 1 pair of new sway bar bushings for E55/E63 sway bars. Weird, I know.. But,I bought them and they were the last ones. They look identical to factory.
Weird how lubricating sway bar bushings would eliminate metal on metal clickity clack sounds. Squeaks I can understand. I will report back after my airmatic parts arrive and when I install the remaining steering rack bushings and sway bar bushings.
OK guys, Sorry took so long. Having our first baby so priorities have shifted.
Got the sway bar bushings and steering rack bushings replaced new airmatic pump, arnott air springs and bilstein shocks installed. Wow, what a difference.
The clickity clack sound is gone! Turns out the sway bar bushing were collapsed as people have mentioned in this thread and the steering rack bushings were also worn out. The car drives like new. Feels very tight once again. Very pleased with the results.
Also, anyone who was following my thread about the airmatic issue. It turns out my shock was collapsed and leaked all the fluid and that was the same side I had issues with the airmatic spring. So new shocks and new arnott's fixed that. Check your shocks guys! If it's leaking fluid it will cause accellerated wear on that air spring.
Another reason why, I highly recommend keeping up with service on your E55/E63. It's not cheap. Anyone say's otherwise, they don't maintain them well. But, If maintained well. These cars are very rewarding. Merry Christmas everyone!!
OK guys, Sorry took so long. Having our first baby so priorities have shifted.
Got the sway bar bushings and steering rack bushings replaced new airmatic pump, arnott air springs and bilstein shocks installed. Wow, what a difference.
The clickity clack sound is gone! Turns out the sway bar bushing were collapsed and the steering rack bushings were also worn out. The car drives like new. Feels very tight once again. Very pleased with the results.
Also, anyone who was following my thread about the airmatic issue. It turns out my shock was collapsed and leaked all the fluid and that was the same side I had issues with the airmatic spring. So new shocks and new arnott's fixed that.
Another reason why, I highly recommend keeping up with service on your E55/E63. It's not cheap. Anyone say's otherwise, they don't maintain them well. But, If maintained well. These cars are very rewarding. Merry Christmas everyone!!
what year is your car?
I think i need to replace the steering rack bushing but i could not find any info on the web for the w204.
Well, the OEM run flat Pirelli p zero' from my 2016 C450 have reached their end of life. 11K really which is pretty poor showing. They were crap anyway, loud and didn't have anywhere near the grip and confidence that I would expect a tire.
What is the best choice for mostly dry CA conditions? Seems a lot of people liked the Michelin Super Sports, but they seem to be replaced now with the Super Sport 4S ? has anyone put these on their C450 or C43?
Also, has anyone done any spirited track driving with these Michelin SS 4S or SS tires? I'm going to do a couple track days, probably not going to go crazy with my daily driver and have read a couple of review on tirerack that say their side walls of these SS 4S peeled off after 3-4 hours on the track. Sort of doesn't really make any sense as the tire is recommended for porsche 911 and ferrari 4xx so I can't imagine they are road only.
Any reports of quality and performance, ride, noise and stick would be MOST appreciated.
disclaimer: I'm going to cross post in the main C450/43 thread too.
Thanks to the OP for this thread. I went and replaced the steering rack bushings and sway end links. It really does make a big difference in the "steering tightness". (60k mi W219)
Steering Rack Bushing - 211 463 03 66
Front Sway Bar end links - 211 320 39 89, 211 320 38 89
Rear torsion bar to control arm - A2113203389
Looking to replace all the rear subframe bushings soon.
I'll start a post on this since i haven't seen anyone post any for w211/219. Two special tools are required.
Had an oil change done yesterday and tech called me to show me the boot had spewed grease all over the wheel and needed replacing. I have to inspect it again, but the boot leaking I believe was the inner one on the passenger side, but the boot I believe is the one closer to the wheel, not the transmission (it has 2?). Is it considered the outer boot if is closer to the wheel and inner boot if is closer to the transmission?
Replaced my thrust arms, Top and Bottom ball joints. Car rides great and super smooth! BUt, still hear a slight clicking noise from front left side when going over speed bumps. It was much worse before and you could hear the clicking at low speeds.
The old ball joints were all pretty bad.
Anyone ran into this before? I'm thinking it's sway bar end link? I can re grease the sway bar bushings and change end links.
Sorry if this specific question has been asked before.
there are 2 ball joints where the sway bar links attach to the suspension
05 E320 Front Thrust (Forward Control) Arm Bushing Squeaks Creaks Minor Bumps in Road
Originally Posted by BC928
As I have been told, the sway bar bushing which are somehow formed to the subframe are to blame for some of these clicking events.
Originally Posted by Max.H
Ok will grease sway bar bushings and check steering rack end links I'm guessing? Anyone know what end links? Need some exact information, it will help others who encounter the same issue sooner or later.
I can't imagine its good. I thought for sure all the ball joints would correct this.
My 165,000 mile 2005 E320 base 211.065 Right Front Thrust (Forward Control) Arm Bushing Squeaks and Creaks when rolling over even Minor Bumps in Road lately.
I began disassembly and when the Thrust Arm was isolated the inner bush made the same noise as I moved it to its extremes.
I understand that to accurately diagnose these components the vehicle should be resting on its four wheels. Then apply squeezing force using channel locks onto the top nut and bottom cup, so any movement can be viewed. Push and pull on the top or sides of the tire can also reveal play.
I can see the ball joint is bad on the knuckle and I can hear the $26 Thrust Arm inner bushing, and I've probably missed one.
While I'm in there working on the lowers, I compare solutions because I have the ball joint and bush tools: Complete Rear Arm $70+Front $120=$190.
or All the bushings & ball joints individually=$100.
Add $50 knuckle ball joint not included either way.
If there's still noise I'll do the uppers.
Still noisy, the outer tie-rod end and hope the rack ends are okay.
I rebuilt my entire suspension on my 2007 E63, both front and rear. The only thing I didn’t replace as far as rubber are those two Front Swaybar bushings which requires for one to suspend the engine from above while dropping the entire front Subframe by disco’ing the steering wheel, AirSprings from up top, engine mounts from below, and finally the sway bar bushing brackets to swap out the bushings. Then lower the car and have “friends” there to make sure all lines up as you lower the car back down. Definitely not a one man job using Jack stands in their garage (ie-Me🥺 otherwise I would have tried it myself! If anyone disagrees, I’d be very interested to hear how “smoothly” it went!
2009 E63 AMG WAGON 2018 BMW M5 2008 BMW 550i 2006 BMW Z4
Originally Posted by E63007
I rebuilt my entire suspension on my 2007 E63, both front and rear. The only thing I didn’t replace as far as rubber are those two Front Swaybar bushings which requires for one to suspend the engine from above while dropping the entire front Subframe by disco’ing the steering wheel, AirSprings from up top, engine mounts from below, and finally the sway bar bushing brackets to swap out the bushings. Then lower the car and have “friends” there to make sure all lines up as you lower the car back down. Definitely not a one man job using Jack stands in their garage (ie-Me🥺 otherwise I would have tried it myself! If anyone disagrees, I’d be very interested to hear how “smoothly” it went!
I’ve done this few months ago. I believe I left sort of DIY on this. Subframe doesn’t have to be dropped completely but lowered about two inches or so. You need engine support bar to do it. I wouldn’t want to do it any other way. Definitely doable in the garage. I have done steering rack bushings at that time but remember once you unbolt the rack to change them out you’ll have to have car aligned.
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. I have factory airmatic shocks.
otherwise I would have tried it myself! If anyone disagrees, I’d be very interested to hear how “smoothly” it went!
