AutobahnE63

I was doing a little bit of digging around and could not find a thread where people were comparing Alignment Specs. I am going in for an alignment next week and I was wondering if any one could share their specs?

I am used to fully adjustable suspension so I am unsure of what I can squeeze out of the car. I do track this beast from time to time so I would like to get more camber out of it and just a touch of toe in, in the front.

Plutoe

Dear dumbfounded---post the VIN!!

AndreNY

I just did mine I have a CLS55 with BC Coilovers lowered a bit over 2" and 20" wheels and did the alignment last week this is my outcome

bbirdwell

Stock (2003-2009 W211, code 489)
Front:
Camber: -1.4 +/-0.3 degrees
Caster: Not specified but usually is 10 to 11 degrees
Toe: 0.03 to 0.13 degrees (FWIW, I run 1/2 to 3/4 mm toe in on mine w/ 18" wheels)

Rear:
Camber: -1.7 degrees +/-0.5 degrees
Toe: 0.05 to 0.29 degrees (FWIW, I run 1 to 1.5 mm toe in w/ 18" wheels)

Now for the caveats:
-front camber is only adjustable by "eccentric bolts" that will give you +/- 0.3 degrees of camber change (and it also changes your caster if you only install one of the bolts on a side). Edit: front camber is adjustable if you install KMac adjustable bushings.
-rear camber is not adjustable; you can raise/lower your car using DAS Xentry, install KMac bushings, or UPD camber arms.
-front toe is easy to adjust; be sure to tie the steering wheel to the door handle and the gear shift leaver so it does not rotate while adjusting the end links.
-rear toe is a b***ch with the stock adjusters; I used to spend an hour crawling under and back out just trying to get the toe where I wanted it. I then installed a set of the UPD toe arms sold by Shardul. Using these, I can set the rear toe on both rear wheels of my car faster than I can set up and tear down the strings I use to set measurements. And I only had to go under the car to loosen and then tighten the lock nuts. Worth. Every. Penny.

All above refers to stock. And I discovered when my car started chewing through tires that my suspension was shot; new thrust and control arms with ball joints up front, new control arms and bushings in the rear.

Best of luck to you.

austingtir

If you search you will find a thread titled something like Handeling (its miss spelt).

There some really good info in there. More so mods you can do like the upper ball joint and crash bolts to pull these things closer to where they should be.

IMO mercedes was on drugs when they engineered the geometry in this car. Im yet to see one that has camber anywhere near where it should be (nearly always to much) and castor is always far to much at 10 to 11+ degrees.

btv94

Can some tell me what is the wheel alignment spec for my car please.

Here's my VIN WDBUF56X27B066886

Stock (2003-2009 W211, code 954 and 486)

Thanks,

PJmak

Does your car wander around? In other words, are you having a had time keeping the car in a straight line when driving??

btv94

My car is going straight but only front driver side tire is feathered on the outside edge.
Thinking about taking car for the alignment and would like to know the spec.

HeissRod

The shop should have the spec in their alignment machine. You have an E350, which might have different specs than an E55/63.

btv94

OK thanks

btv94

Just took my car for alignment after New front shock Bilstein HD and new front tire Continental EXTREMECONTACT SPORT Max Performance Summer

As i mentioned before my Michelin AS/3 + was feathered and extreme noisy even though they are a lot left on the thread.

Is there something on the alignment read out should i be concerned?

Any suggestion and explanation will greatly appreciated. Thanks

btv94

Sorry upload wrong picture.

Picture on Jan 21 was alignment with OE shock and michelin AS/3 + tire.

This is the one with Bilstein HD shocks and Continental tire.

bbirdwell

Good catch by HeissRod on the model difference!

Your "before" toe measurements show the driver side tire close to the maximum toe in so I would expect it to be feathered by the outside of the tire rolling under as you drive. The passenger-side toe was beyond the maximum toe in and that one should also have the outside edge feathered due to the outer edge rolling under as you drive.

How many miles do you have on your car? It's amazing how many E-class owners need to rebuild the front suspension around 100,000 miles...ball joints are the weakest (but the car is quite heavy) and bushings are right behind.

btv94

Yes both front tire are feathered outside edge and the car has 95K miles on the clock and the driving is 95% on interstate @ 80mph.

So if you only mentioned about the toe setting that cause the tire feathered. I think that new alignment looks good correct?

I'm thinking about changing ball joints when i replaced new shocks at 91k miles, but my indy tech inspected ball joints and said it's still good.

What parts should i change to help/prevent this from happening again.
Low ball joints (2113300435) and control arm (2113304311/4411)? anything else?

btv94

Took the my indy shop to inspect ball joints. Any comment on them?

Thanks

87geeinn

The only thing a visual inspection of ball joints is going to tell you is if there has been any damage to the boot or grease has leaked out. In your case, they look fine but the only way to tell if there is an issue is to move the suspension around manually and look for shifting of components where there shouldn't be any. Sometimes this can be elusive and the only way to tell is by removing the ball joint from it's associated component and doing a closer inspection of the play in the shaft/ball seat. Giggity-giggity.

Also, the alignment specs posted earlier appear to be from a non-AMG. Here's the specs for the w211 AMG:

HeissRod

The person you're replying to doesn't have an AMG

Sandpit

Useful for me though! I have been chasing these numbers all morning. Just got mine aligned and look like the guy has used stock W211 values

Alien8eD1

Where do I find the vehicle code at?