TheTherapist

If it's not one thing it's another... After having the ECU sent away for service at then receiving an invoice of AU$3800 the car is running bad again within a couple of hours of collecting it. Called the mechanic to collect it via tow truck as she's running so bad, and upon further inspection he tells me the throttle body needs replacing (potentiometer issue) and also the motor is running rich. The cats are staring to come apart from the extra fuel, and that's the last thing I need in my (barely run-in) motor. He slugged me another $480 for that info (which apparently included $50 fuel).

Anyhow I arranged a replacement TB and whist waiting for its arrival took the car to the exhaust shop to sort new cats. A couple of hours later they're on the phone to tell me that after an initial inspection they cant get the car off the hoist as she's refusing to start. After a lot of messing around it turns out the fuel tank is dead empty. So after topping up the fuel AGAIN the car wont even turn over and they inform me the battery needs replacing! Another $1080 spent (with the exhaust shop this time) the car comes home and sits in the driveway awaiting the throttle body. Finally arrives weeks later but (as expected) didnt make any difference with the running rich problem.

During this time I tried the stock tune then reflashing with the performance tune, but this also didn't make a difference. My next step was going to be phoning Eurocharged and discussing with them.

But before that could happen...

... the car refuses to unlock. I assume the 4 weeks old $380 battery has gone flat so tried the other key and still no go, although the door pin moves a little under stress (any more and the key will bend). Of course same situ with the trunk.

So does anyone know how the hell I'm supposed to get in the car...?!?

...

If it wasn't for bad luck I'd have no luck at all...

turbo97se

There is a key blade within your key fob. The blade inserts into the driver's side door and should allow you to physically turn the lock.

You can use the same key to get into the trunk/boot with your key. There is a handle on the boot lid with a key barrel next to it.
After that you should be able to open the boot and either replace or charge the battery. You should then be able to unlock your car with the remote.

*edit* the picture of your key blade just showed up. Try that key in the boot lock and see. It may not be the right key

BoostedAero

Been here with my E55 back in to far in my garage, I charged the battery from the Alternator + output, and saved me from my not thinking ahead. Prolly not the best solution but it got me charged and running.

TheTherapist

Thanks for replying guys...

Yeah as far as I know it's definitely the right key - I have been through the flat battery scenario before when the car was being worked on and discovered that the blade key will only work if the doors are not deadlocked - or is that not normal? Actually had to go to exhaust shop and open boot to access battery as explained here:

https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...d-battery.html

Also I have opened the car many times with that blade key (sometimes with a flat battery from what I remember) but this time the key is almost bending with strain and the door pin is moving slightly but no-where near actually unlocking.

Hi Boosted - so are you saying there is a way of opening the hood without having access to the hood release inside the car?

sexyxe

I had my battery disconnected for about 8 weeks and didn't have any issues using my key to open the body or boot.

Seems like you've had a bloody horrible run of things!

turbo97se

It does happen. I have had it happen to me ... the battery was almost dead. I tried to open the boot with the key fob, but that completely killed the battery. The key blade could not open the boot lid after that, but could open the driver's door lock. The latch in the boot got stuck in a state where it could not unlock with the key. I had to lift the passenger's side carpet to get to the main battery wire and connect battery charger cables to it to actually pop the lid. It would be unusual if both driver's door lock and boot lock could not open. The only way I could possibly see addressing this if this happens is to charge through the alternator at that point.

BoostedAero

Jack car up, you can access the alternator + out from there with lower panel off

Trying to get to the cable behind the grill is pretty stupid when clearly you can get to cable (TCU Area) then as a tertiary solution the alternator charging post as it is the most hazerdous.

1ForcedBenz

LOL---To OP, I remember a time when you were in the middle of your build and siding with alleged shops that weren't being honest and truthful and giving me a hard time for voicing my opinion on the matter. I remember telling you hopefully you won't find yourself in the same position as others were at the time. Karma

turbo97se

Why do you think it is stupid? If you can get inside the car, all you need to do is pull back the carpet and there are 2 nuts and a bolt (if I remember correctly). Easier than jacking up the car, placing jack stands and removing the engine bay undercover. Access to the alternator is more awkward also especially if you have larger jumper/charger cable clamps.

First choice: Trunk
Second choice: Inside the car under the TCU
Third choice: Alternator

That would be my recommendation.

BoostedAero

Cleaned up my post, no disagreement at all sir.

I realize I know what I mean and most times I need to be very detailed to get my point across.


Sorry for the lack of clarity. I was dis'ing my idea then, later when I cleaned up my post about getting at the hood release cable then... Sigh it appeared I was trashing your idea :-(

I type in a Linux command prompt for 50hrs a week guess it shows

TheTherapist

My apologies if you felt I insulted you, I am certain that was not my intention. Often words are misinterpreted on the internet. I cannot recall the specific conversation but although on occasion I might not agree with someone, I am always appreciative of their opinion/perspective.

TheTherapist

By the looks of it the alternator seems to be the only solution. Thanks very much to both of you for your comments and suggestions.

TheTherapist

Happy to report that I finally managed to get in the car. A liberal spray of CRC into the key hole and then using pliers to hold the key tight while turning in the lock did the trick. Took a fair amount of pressure though. I am keen to find out how this could have happened in the first place - I certainly don't want this situation occurring again.

Once I was in the car I could open the hood and use the positive terminal under the windscreen cowl to give me a couple of seconds of power enabling me to use the trunk release to access the battery, which of course was completely dead. So tomorrow that gets returned after only purchasing around 5 weeks ago. Obviously something was draining it unnecessarily but I'll have to figure that out later.

I love this car - where else could I devote so many hours troubleshooting E55's.... (jk)

new55

i am going to put a battery tender quick connect on my battery in trunk and drop it through behind the bumper,, then i can trickle charge when ever i want and if this situation ever arises it will be another access point

TheTherapist

BoostedAero

new55 i am going to put a battery tender quick connect on my battery in trunk and drop it through behind the bumper,, then i can trickle charge when ever i want and if this situation ever arises it will be another access point


^I have an extra tender I may just throw at this problem... that could provide enough to pop the trunk

I bet it is a cable issue behind the door panel though so you may want to inspect more for JIC timing

Glad you got in!!!!

latemodel21

I installed one of these magnetic battery tender connectors on my sl55.

http://www.nakidparts.com/id127.html

if I forget about it, it simply comes apart as I drive away (with no damage).

here are a couple of pics of my install (on the rear lower, as I back into my garage).


Cheers,
Chris

turbo97se

Glad you got it figured out .. this is a more common issue on Sprinter vans. I have had a few locks that seized up but with liberal spray of lubricant freed it up. I like the battery magnetic hook up idea but for $80+ it's a little pricey for what it is. If I had to do something like this, I would be inclined to just add cigarette lighter (extension) with cap to the trunk area and wire it via a heavy duty fuse to the battery. Uncap and plug in ... cheap and effective.

Ruthle55

If the car is dumping that much fuel, have you ever once thought about a bad o2/coil pack/spark plug?

TheTherapist

The frustrating thing is the motor has just been rebuilt in addition to adding a looped fuel rail, new fuel pumps, new 550 injectors and new (one step colder) spark plugs. It hasnt even finished being run-in yet.