Manual mode and paddles not working
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Manual mode and paddles not working
I've picked up a E55 2 weeks ago and have already ran into my first problem ![smash](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smashfreak.gif)
Yesterday when I took my new beauty out for a spin, I noticed that my paddles are not working anymore, they're completely dead no matter what mode I'm in.
I then tried shifting through gears with the stick in "M" mode and noticed that whenever I try to change gear, the dash display will show the gear that I change to, but instantly change it back.
For example: I'm stationary, it will show "2" I push the stick to the left, "1" will pop up for half a second and it will just jump back to "2" without me doing anything ?
Any ideas?
//Edit: I just noticed that the "M" mode shifting only works when pressing the stick to the left side i.e downshift, still it jumps back to the gear it's already in / the gear never actually changes. Pushing it to the right does nothing at all.
![smash](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smashfreak.gif)
Yesterday when I took my new beauty out for a spin, I noticed that my paddles are not working anymore, they're completely dead no matter what mode I'm in.
I then tried shifting through gears with the stick in "M" mode and noticed that whenever I try to change gear, the dash display will show the gear that I change to, but instantly change it back.
For example: I'm stationary, it will show "2" I push the stick to the left, "1" will pop up for half a second and it will just jump back to "2" without me doing anything ?
Any ideas?
//Edit: I just noticed that the "M" mode shifting only works when pressing the stick to the left side i.e downshift, still it jumps back to the gear it's already in / the gear never actually changes. Pushing it to the right does nothing at all.
Last edited by natza; 08-19-2016 at 12:58 AM.
#3
MBWorld Fanatic!
I've picked up a E55 2 weeks ago and have already ran into my first problem ![smash](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smashfreak.gif)
Yesterday when I took my new beauty out for a spin, I noticed that my paddles are not working anymore, they're completely dead no matter what mode I'm in.
I then tried shifting through gears with the stick in "M" mode and noticed that whenever I try to change gear, the dash display will show the gear that I change to, but instantly change it back.
For example: I'm stationary, it will show "2" I push the stick to the left, "1" will pop up for half a second and it will just jump back to "2" without me doing anything ?
Any ideas?
//Edit: I just noticed that the "M" mode shifting only works when pressing the stick to the left side i.e downshift, still it jumps back to the gear it's already in / the gear never actually changes. Pushing it to the right does nothing at all.
![smash](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smashfreak.gif)
Yesterday when I took my new beauty out for a spin, I noticed that my paddles are not working anymore, they're completely dead no matter what mode I'm in.
I then tried shifting through gears with the stick in "M" mode and noticed that whenever I try to change gear, the dash display will show the gear that I change to, but instantly change it back.
For example: I'm stationary, it will show "2" I push the stick to the left, "1" will pop up for half a second and it will just jump back to "2" without me doing anything ?
Any ideas?
//Edit: I just noticed that the "M" mode shifting only works when pressing the stick to the left side i.e downshift, still it jumps back to the gear it's already in / the gear never actually changes. Pushing it to the right does nothing at all.
Is your E55 2004 or older? if so, an open connection between the floor shifter and the steering buttons could cause this ... because, 2003 and 2004 E55s have an analog steering wheel shift button configuration with a "normally closed" up-shift button, so hitting the up button opens the circuit allowing the input at the floor shifter to pull-up to 12volts (so an open circuit would act the same as hitting the up shift button on the wheel).
Hope that helps,
Chris
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
sounds like your upshift button may be stuck (or an issue in the floor shifter "up" switch).
Is your E55 2004 or older? if so, an open connection between the floor shifter and the steering buttons could cause this ... because, 2003 and 2004 E55s have an analog steering wheel shift button configuration with a "normally closed" up-shift button, so hitting the up button opens the circuit allowing the input at the floor shifter to pull-up to 12volts (so an open circuit would act the same as hitting the up shift button on the wheel).
Hope that helps,
Chris
Is your E55 2004 or older? if so, an open connection between the floor shifter and the steering buttons could cause this ... because, 2003 and 2004 E55s have an analog steering wheel shift button configuration with a "normally closed" up-shift button, so hitting the up button opens the circuit allowing the input at the floor shifter to pull-up to 12volts (so an open circuit would act the same as hitting the up shift button on the wheel).
Hope that helps,
Chris
Is there anything I could do myself for a possible fix, or at least troubleshoot this further to find out the exact cause? e.g if it's the button on the wheel or the floor shifter?
#5
MBWorld Fanatic!
edited ... was half asleep and gave info backwards ... this is correct now
below are the readings if all is intact in the steering wiring and the connection to the floor shifter .....
if you pry out the "up" button and probe the 2 wires (with the key in position 2, one lead of your meter on ground, meter set to dcvolts),
with neither button depressed, both wires will be at 5.1 vdc
with the up button depressed, one wire will be a 12-14 volts dc ... the other near zero
with the down button depressed, both wires will be at about 1 volt dc
if you have trouble with that, PM me your email address and I can give you some more info or walk you through it on the phone.
Cheers,
Chris
Last edited by latemodel21; 08-19-2016 at 01:32 PM.
#6
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2003 S55, 2010 CL63, 2014 S550 4Matic
I've picked up a E55 2 weeks ago and have already ran into my first problem ![smash](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smashfreak.gif)
Yesterday when I took my new beauty out for a spin, I noticed that my paddles are not working anymore, they're completely dead no matter what mode I'm in.
I then tried shifting through gears with the stick in "M" mode and noticed that whenever I try to change gear, the dash display will show the gear that I change to, but instantly change it back.
For example: I'm stationary, it will show "2" I push the stick to the left, "1" will pop up for half a second and it will just jump back to "2" without me doing anything ?
Any ideas?
//Edit: I just noticed that the "M" mode shifting only works when pressing the stick to the left side i.e downshift, still it jumps back to the gear it's already in / the gear never actually changes. Pushing it to the right does nothing at all.
![smash](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smashfreak.gif)
Yesterday when I took my new beauty out for a spin, I noticed that my paddles are not working anymore, they're completely dead no matter what mode I'm in.
I then tried shifting through gears with the stick in "M" mode and noticed that whenever I try to change gear, the dash display will show the gear that I change to, but instantly change it back.
For example: I'm stationary, it will show "2" I push the stick to the left, "1" will pop up for half a second and it will just jump back to "2" without me doing anything ?
Any ideas?
//Edit: I just noticed that the "M" mode shifting only works when pressing the stick to the left side i.e downshift, still it jumps back to the gear it's already in / the gear never actually changes. Pushing it to the right does nothing at all.
this is my first post
![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
have you solved it?
I have exact same issue with my s55
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Saied (04-14-2018)
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#8
MBWorld Fanatic!
You did not go into detail about your issue, but here is some useful info and a guess (if your car always wants to shift up and you can make it go down one gear with the touchstick)
Being that this is an S55, for the steering wheel mounted shift buttons, it uses the "analog" shift button configuration in which the up and down buttons are in series.
The up button (which is a "normally closed" switch) opens the circut allowing the input to floor shifter to rail to battery voltage; the down paddle (which is a "normally open" switch) shorts the entire circut to ground (through a 100 ohm resister in the up button).
what does this mean to you? ....
If the right (up) shift button is broken, or ANY of the wire associated with the steering wheel shift buttons is broken (open)including the wire leading from the steering column to the floor shifter, the car will forever think you are trying to upshift. WHICH SOUNDS LIKE THE PROBLEM you are trying to solve.
you can probe the voltage of the shift buttons to verify operation.
with the key on,
the wire leading from the "up" shift button to the clock spring should read approx ...
5.1 vdc with no buttons pressed
1 vdc with the "down" button pressed
12-14 vdc with the "up" button pressed.
hope that helps,
Chris
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Saied (04-14-2018)
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2003 S55, 2010 CL63, 2014 S550 4Matic
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Thank you so much, Chris,
you were right and the problem was the upshift button on the steering wheel.
to make it short, this time when I pry the out the 101 resister on the upshift button came lose so I soldered it.
everything seems fine for now
#11
MBWorld Fanatic!
Cheers,
Chris
#12
Senior Member
a simple way would be to pullout your up steering wheel switch (they pry out easily with no damage).
edited ... was half asleep and gave info backwards ... this is correct now
below are the readings if all is intact in the steering wiring and the connection to the floor shifter .....
if you pry out the "up" button and probe the 2 wires (with the key in position 2, one lead of your meter on ground, meter set to dcvolts),
with neither button depressed, both wires will be at 5.1 vdc
with the up button depressed, one wire will be a 12-14 volts dc ... the other near zero
with the down button depressed, both wires will be at about 1 volt dc
if you have trouble with that, PM me your email address and I can give you some more info or walk you through it on the phone.
Cheers,
Chris
edited ... was half asleep and gave info backwards ... this is correct now
below are the readings if all is intact in the steering wiring and the connection to the floor shifter .....
if you pry out the "up" button and probe the 2 wires (with the key in position 2, one lead of your meter on ground, meter set to dcvolts),
with neither button depressed, both wires will be at 5.1 vdc
with the up button depressed, one wire will be a 12-14 volts dc ... the other near zero
with the down button depressed, both wires will be at about 1 volt dc
if you have trouble with that, PM me your email address and I can give you some more info or walk you through it on the phone.
Cheers,
Chris
In summary, I recently replaced my gear selector. About a month afterwards, I went to use the shift buttons on the wheel and found that they weren't working. I rarely use the buttons (actually I have fitted aftermarket paddles) unless on a track.
So I started thinking that the gear selector (or swapping it) was the issue. That said, I thought it would be worth stepping through your diagnosis post to see if I could find a fault.
Against your guide, this is what I found:
- with neither button depressed, both wires will be at 5.1 vdc - yes (I got ~4.9)
- with the up button depressed, one wire will be a 12-14 volts dc ... the other near zero - yes
- with the down button depressed, both wires will be at about 1 volt dc - no - one of the wires goes to 0 (the one that goes to zero with up depressed)
Thanks in advance.
![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#13
MBWorld Fanatic!
Please forgive a bit of an interloper... I have a 2003 CLK55, but the electrics on these cars are very similar and this is the most recent post I can find.
In summary, I recently replaced my gear selector. About a month afterwards, I went to use the shift buttons on the wheel and found that they weren't working. I rarely use the buttons (actually I have fitted aftermarket paddles) unless on a track.
So I started thinking that the gear selector (or swapping it) was the issue. That said, I thought it would be worth stepping through your diagnosis post to see if I could find a fault.
Against your guide, this is what I found:
Thanks in advance.![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
In summary, I recently replaced my gear selector. About a month afterwards, I went to use the shift buttons on the wheel and found that they weren't working. I rarely use the buttons (actually I have fitted aftermarket paddles) unless on a track.
So I started thinking that the gear selector (or swapping it) was the issue. That said, I thought it would be worth stepping through your diagnosis post to see if I could find a fault.
Against your guide, this is what I found:
- with neither button depressed, both wires will be at 5.1 vdc - yes (I got ~4.9)
- with the up button depressed, one wire will be a 12-14 volts dc ... the other near zero - yes
- with the down button depressed, both wires will be at about 1 volt dc - no - one of the wires goes to 0 (the one that goes to zero with up depressed)
Thanks in advance.
![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
HOWEVER ....
wish I had better news. (and do get a second opinion)
But, It is my understanding that there is a NARROW window of opportunity to designate a replacement floor shifter as "shift button compatible" (this only applies to 2003-2006 AMGs with analog shift buttons, other Mercedes models that used digital shift buttons are NOT subject to this issue). When the new shifter is installed, the shift button option must be selected as it cannot be changed later. If your shifter was replaced by a Mercedes dealer or specialist, they would have / should have known this. SO, they ARE on the hook to make this right (with a brand new shifter). If you installed it yourself, I am afraid you need to buy another shifter and start over. Or, if by chance, your original shifter only had a mechanical issue, you could swap its electronics into your new shifter and I would think that would work.
Chris
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breeze247 (10-26-2020)
#14
Senior Member
Yes, all of that info above would apply to a 2003 CLK55 (a more complete list is 2003-2004 E55 and all 2003-2006 SL55/66, CLK55. S55/66, CL55/65 and SLR Maclaren )
HOWEVER ....
wish I had better news. (and do get a second opinion)
But, It is my understanding that there is a NARROW window of opportunity to designate a replacement floor shifter as "shift button compatible" (this only applies to 2003-2006 AMGs with analog shift buttons, other Mercedes models that used digital shift buttons are NOT subject to this issue). When the new shifter is installed, the shift button option must be selected as it cannot be changed later. If your shifter was replaced by a Mercedes dealer or specialist, they would have / should have known this. SO, they ARE on the hook to make this right (with a brand new shifter). If you installed it yourself, I am afraid you need to buy another shifter and start over. Or, if by chance, your original shifter only had a mechanical issue, you could swap its electronics into your new shifter and I would think that would work.
Chris
HOWEVER ....
wish I had better news. (and do get a second opinion)
But, It is my understanding that there is a NARROW window of opportunity to designate a replacement floor shifter as "shift button compatible" (this only applies to 2003-2006 AMGs with analog shift buttons, other Mercedes models that used digital shift buttons are NOT subject to this issue). When the new shifter is installed, the shift button option must be selected as it cannot be changed later. If your shifter was replaced by a Mercedes dealer or specialist, they would have / should have known this. SO, they ARE on the hook to make this right (with a brand new shifter). If you installed it yourself, I am afraid you need to buy another shifter and start over. Or, if by chance, your original shifter only had a mechanical issue, you could swap its electronics into your new shifter and I would think that would work.
Chris
I've just double checked with the yard that sent me the selector. The one they sent came from a C55, which means it would be digital buttons rather than the analogue buttons that the 2003 CLK55 used. So that makes sense. The challenge I have is that what I need is quite specific. I need a selector that does analogue shifts (and has been programmed from the factory for them), and also has stop-start. Frustrating, because there are a great many of these selectors for sale, but as soon as you apply that criteria it narrows massively.
I may end up needing to choose between stop-start (which I now have) and shift buttons. I use stop-start all the time but on track days I really can't use the stick to shift.
Hmm....
Thanks again Chris, really appreciate it.
#15
Member
I am having a similar issue with my 05 E55. The transmission always upshifts to the highest possible gear, even under decent throttle. When I click downshift it down then goes immediately jumps back to D. Is my 1st step to take apart the steering wheel and measure the voltages? I see talk about 03 models, does this apply 05 too?
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breeze247 (10-26-2020)
#16
MBWorld Fanatic!
I am having a similar issue with my 05 E55. The transmission always upshifts to the highest possible gear, even under decent throttle. When I click downshift it down then goes immediately jumps back to D. Is my 1st step to take apart the steering wheel and measure the voltages? I see talk about 03 models, does this apply 05 too?
Last edited by latemodel21; 09-24-2020 at 12:18 AM.
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breeze247 (10-26-2020)
#17
Senior Member
Yes, all of that info above would apply to a 2003 CLK55 (a more complete list is 2003-2004 E55 and all 2003-2006 SL55/66, CLK55. S55/66, CL55/65 and SLR Maclaren )
HOWEVER ....
wish I had better news. (and do get a second opinion)
But, It is my understanding that there is a NARROW window of opportunity to designate a replacement floor shifter as "shift button compatible" (this only applies to 2003-2006 AMGs with analog shift buttons, other Mercedes models that used digital shift buttons are NOT subject to this issue). When the new shifter is installed, the shift button option must be selected as it cannot be changed later. If your shifter was replaced by a Mercedes dealer or specialist, they would have / should have known this. SO, they ARE on the hook to make this right (with a brand new shifter). If you installed it yourself, I am afraid you need to buy another shifter and start over. Or, if by chance, your original shifter only had a mechanical issue, you could swap its electronics into your new shifter and I would think that would work.
Chris
HOWEVER ....
wish I had better news. (and do get a second opinion)
But, It is my understanding that there is a NARROW window of opportunity to designate a replacement floor shifter as "shift button compatible" (this only applies to 2003-2006 AMGs with analog shift buttons, other Mercedes models that used digital shift buttons are NOT subject to this issue). When the new shifter is installed, the shift button option must be selected as it cannot be changed later. If your shifter was replaced by a Mercedes dealer or specialist, they would have / should have known this. SO, they ARE on the hook to make this right (with a brand new shifter). If you installed it yourself, I am afraid you need to buy another shifter and start over. Or, if by chance, your original shifter only had a mechanical issue, you could swap its electronics into your new shifter and I would think that would work.
Chris
I’ve just spoken to the dealer and they can get the part for £475+tax. Ouch. They said that it would come from Germany and needs to be coded to my chassis.
Does this mean the unit will be all set up for manual buttons on the wheel or is the ‘chassis coding’ something else, like an anti-theft requirement? I don’t want to buy the selector and then need to pay somebody again to code it. I can fit it myself no problem.
Separately, I have been looking at eBay sellers who are selling the part number that my car came with. Everybody is telling me that the part does not have engine stop-start, even though the dealer has confirmed that it is the correct number and it was fitted to my car at factory.
Still thinking that getting the same part number, with stop-start, coded for shift buttons used is the answer, but it will take some time. I also need to make certain there isn’t a security point that I have missed.
#18
MBWorld Fanatic!
Chris
I’ve just spoken to the dealer and they can get the part for £475+tax. Ouch. They said that it would come from Germany and needs to be coded to my chassis.
Does this mean the unit will be all set up for manual buttons on the wheel or is the ‘chassis coding’ something else, like an anti-theft requirement? I don’t want to buy the selector and then need to pay somebody again to code it. I can fit it myself no problem.
Separately, I have been looking at eBay sellers who are selling the part number that my car came with. Everybody is telling me that the part does not have engine stop-start, even though the dealer has confirmed that it is the correct number and it was fitted to my car at factory.
Still thinking that getting the same part number, with stop-start, coded for shift buttons used is the answer, but it will take some time. I also need to make certain there isn’t a security point that I have missed.
I’ve just spoken to the dealer and they can get the part for £475+tax. Ouch. They said that it would come from Germany and needs to be coded to my chassis.
Does this mean the unit will be all set up for manual buttons on the wheel or is the ‘chassis coding’ something else, like an anti-theft requirement? I don’t want to buy the selector and then need to pay somebody again to code it. I can fit it myself no problem.
Separately, I have been looking at eBay sellers who are selling the part number that my car came with. Everybody is telling me that the part does not have engine stop-start, even though the dealer has confirmed that it is the correct number and it was fitted to my car at factory.
Still thinking that getting the same part number, with stop-start, coded for shift buttons used is the answer, but it will take some time. I also need to make certain there isn’t a security point that I have missed.
The price is not surprising. For reasons that I am not 100% clear on, the floor shifter is considered a "security" part making it more difficult to purchase over the counter. I would not assume that the coding that they are talking about includes the AMG shift function enabling ... but I would not assume it does not (or could not). You should ask a tech at mercedes if it does (or could) include this. The possibilities exists that they ... will, could, wont, or cant (it is possible that it has to be in your car to be coded for that during the "marriage" process). I wish I could give you more specific answers, but I've not had to solve this for any customers (thankfully). What was the problem with your original shifter? can you move the electronics over to the new one?
perhaps this is the excuse you need to get your own star tester? (I always love an excuse to buy a new tool : )
Chris
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breeze247 (10-26-2020)
#19
Senior Member
For those of you that like a happy ending...
A few posts above I flagged an issue that I was having with my CLK55 shift paddles.
In short, after trying another shifter, I thought to contact the person that bought mine from me to repair and he agreed to sell it back. He accidentally sent a different shifter the first time around (he buys, repairs, sells with warranty) but the second time he sent me back my original shifter fully repaired.
Everything working perfectly.
***To those of you that have shift buttons on the wheel, my advice is to repair rather than replace unless you can be 100% certain of the spec of the car you are buying from. ***
A few posts above I flagged an issue that I was having with my CLK55 shift paddles.
In short, after trying another shifter, I thought to contact the person that bought mine from me to repair and he agreed to sell it back. He accidentally sent a different shifter the first time around (he buys, repairs, sells with warranty) but the second time he sent me back my original shifter fully repaired.
Everything working perfectly.
***To those of you that have shift buttons on the wheel, my advice is to repair rather than replace unless you can be 100% certain of the spec of the car you are buying from. ***
Last edited by breeze247; 10-26-2020 at 10:11 AM.
#20
Senior Member
Very good question about the coding.
The price is not surprising. For reasons that I am not 100% clear on, the floor shifter is considered a "security" part making it more difficult to purchase over the counter. I would not assume that the coding that they are talking about includes the AMG shift function enabling ... but I would not assume it does not (or could not). You should ask a tech at mercedes if it does (or could) include this. The possibilities exists that they ... will, could, wont, or cant (it is possible that it has to be in your car to be coded for that during the "marriage" process). I wish I could give you more specific answers, but I've not had to solve this for any customers (thankfully). What was the problem with your original shifter? can you move the electronics over to the new one?
perhaps this is the excuse you need to get your own star tester? (I always love an excuse to buy a new tool : )
Chris
The price is not surprising. For reasons that I am not 100% clear on, the floor shifter is considered a "security" part making it more difficult to purchase over the counter. I would not assume that the coding that they are talking about includes the AMG shift function enabling ... but I would not assume it does not (or could not). You should ask a tech at mercedes if it does (or could) include this. The possibilities exists that they ... will, could, wont, or cant (it is possible that it has to be in your car to be coded for that during the "marriage" process). I wish I could give you more specific answers, but I've not had to solve this for any customers (thankfully). What was the problem with your original shifter? can you move the electronics over to the new one?
perhaps this is the excuse you need to get your own star tester? (I always love an excuse to buy a new tool : )
Chris
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latemodel21 (10-26-2020)
#21
MBWorld Fanatic!
Happy to help, glad it all worked out !
I do agree that folks should be wary of replacing the floor shifter on certain AMG models (2003-2006 AMGs with analog shift buttons) . This issue does not come up often, but when it does it rarely has a happy ending.
The buttons in your wheel, while part of this antiquated system, are updateable (with no worry of coding issues, etc) . One can use the "Mercedes Paddle Adapter" module that interfaces the newer digital paddles to the older "analog" system in this car. I am the manufacturer/developer and the module is available from me or from various forum sponsors (or comandonlineUK if you are on that side of the pond : )
Cheers and stay safe!
Chris
I do agree that folks should be wary of replacing the floor shifter on certain AMG models (2003-2006 AMGs with analog shift buttons) . This issue does not come up often, but when it does it rarely has a happy ending.
The buttons in your wheel, while part of this antiquated system, are updateable (with no worry of coding issues, etc) . One can use the "Mercedes Paddle Adapter" module that interfaces the newer digital paddles to the older "analog" system in this car. I am the manufacturer/developer and the module is available from me or from various forum sponsors (or comandonlineUK if you are on that side of the pond : )
Cheers and stay safe!
Chris
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breeze247 (10-26-2020)
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latemodel21 (10-26-2020)
#23
MBWorld Fanatic!
I will never be too far away as long as there are things left to modify on my AMGs : )
Glad to see you are still around lending a hand as well, Tim !
Cheers and stay safe!
Chris
Glad to see you are still around lending a hand as well, Tim !
Cheers and stay safe!
Chris
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tlambert (10-26-2020)
#24
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'99 and '05 E55 AMG
Happy to help, glad it all worked out !
I do agree that folks should be wary of replacing the floor shifter on certain AMG models (2003-2006 AMGs with analog shift buttons) . This issue does not come up often, but when it does it rarely has a happy ending.
The buttons in your wheel, while part of this antiquated system, are updateable (with no worry of coding issues, etc) . One can use the "Mercedes Paddle Adapter" module that interfaces the newer digital paddles to the older "analog" system in this car. I am the manufacturer/developer and the module is available from me or from various forum sponsors (or comandonlineUK if you are on that side of the pond : )
Cheers and stay safe!
Chris
I do agree that folks should be wary of replacing the floor shifter on certain AMG models (2003-2006 AMGs with analog shift buttons) . This issue does not come up often, but when it does it rarely has a happy ending.
The buttons in your wheel, while part of this antiquated system, are updateable (with no worry of coding issues, etc) . One can use the "Mercedes Paddle Adapter" module that interfaces the newer digital paddles to the older "analog" system in this car. I am the manufacturer/developer and the module is available from me or from various forum sponsors (or comandonlineUK if you are on that side of the pond : )
Cheers and stay safe!
Chris
BTW, the supercharger clutch scatter shield I purchased from you years ago still looks great and provides significant piece of mind.
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latemodel21 (10-27-2020)
#25
Member
The 05 And later use digital paddles, so while the problem may be caused by a similar failing component like your up paddle or the up switch in your shifter. the testing will be a little different in terms of the voltages you are looking for. With the 05 you could disconnect your up shift paddle and the car should still operate normally and if you're up shifting problem goes away you know the problem is in your up shift paddle. If it remains than it is probly in the up shift switch of your floor shifter