Another dead E55 from poor fuel pump connections
#1
Another dead E55 from poor fuel pump connections
Hey guys,
I've only owned my E55 a few months and already had to get it towed! Thanks to some random posts on MBWorld I was keyed into the different fuel pump relay in the AMG cars hidden on the right side of the trunk!
While I get the replacement relays in, and attempt to find a new socket to wire in, I was questioning if anyone has attempted any re-wiring of that circuit to make it robust. As it sits, when the car is idling the entire fuel pump harness going to the sender on the right side of the car gets warm to the touch. I was contemplating a few things if I can find all the right parts:
1. Just replacing the short section of toasted wiring on the fuel pump relay
2. Splicing in a second 10 ga wire after the 30 AMP fuse tied into a second OEM relay and run all the way up to the connector on the fuel pump. (it appears that the wiring leaving this relay is split at some point in the right rear of the car).
I should also mention that the fuel pump assemblies were all replaced with new sometime last year before I bought the car, so dirty filters shouldn't be a problem.
Any thoughts on this rewire? Anybody done similar?
I've only owned my E55 a few months and already had to get it towed! Thanks to some random posts on MBWorld I was keyed into the different fuel pump relay in the AMG cars hidden on the right side of the trunk!
While I get the replacement relays in, and attempt to find a new socket to wire in, I was questioning if anyone has attempted any re-wiring of that circuit to make it robust. As it sits, when the car is idling the entire fuel pump harness going to the sender on the right side of the car gets warm to the touch. I was contemplating a few things if I can find all the right parts:
1. Just replacing the short section of toasted wiring on the fuel pump relay
2. Splicing in a second 10 ga wire after the 30 AMP fuse tied into a second OEM relay and run all the way up to the connector on the fuel pump. (it appears that the wiring leaving this relay is split at some point in the right rear of the car).
I should also mention that the fuel pump assemblies were all replaced with new sometime last year before I bought the car, so dirty filters shouldn't be a problem.
Any thoughts on this rewire? Anybody done similar?
Last edited by jepherz; 09-08-2016 at 11:50 AM.
#4
I considered that the relay socket was charred from the previous pump assemblies and it just decided to corrode enough now, but the fact remains that the entire length of the wires is warm from the fuse through the relay, all the way up to the pumps.
Are you saying if your car is idling for 10 minutes, you can't feel any warmth from the wires by the pump?
#5
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 3,398
Likes: 1,017
From: Republic of Texas
'99 and '05 E55 AMG
https://mbworld.org/forums/mercedes-...ml#post6536637
The newly replaced pumps in my car draw 17 1/2 amps and it does create heat. Most likely the previous pump assemblies charred the socket and wires and they were never replaced.
FWIW, I am now measuring the current draw in the fuel pump circuit every oil change. Can't find the document or link but from the WIS, the current should measure up to 20 amps at idle. Above that, I say it's time to change fuel filters.
The newly replaced pumps in my car draw 17 1/2 amps and it does create heat. Most likely the previous pump assemblies charred the socket and wires and they were never replaced.
FWIW, I am now measuring the current draw in the fuel pump circuit every oil change. Can't find the document or link but from the WIS, the current should measure up to 20 amps at idle. Above that, I say it's time to change fuel filters.
Last edited by bbirdwell; 09-08-2016 at 04:20 PM.
#6
https://mbworld.org/forums/mercedes-...ml#post6536637
The newly replaced pumps in my car draw 17 1/2 amps and it does create heat. Most likely the previous pump assemblies charred the socket and wires and they were never replaced.
FWIW, I am now measuring the current draw in the fuel pump circuit every oil change. Can't find the document or link but from the WIS, the current should measure up to 20 amps at idle. Above that, I say it's time to change fuel filters.
The newly replaced pumps in my car draw 17 1/2 amps and it does create heat. Most likely the previous pump assemblies charred the socket and wires and they were never replaced.
FWIW, I am now measuring the current draw in the fuel pump circuit every oil change. Can't find the document or link but from the WIS, the current should measure up to 20 amps at idle. Above that, I say it's time to change fuel filters.
#7
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 3,398
Likes: 1,017
From: Republic of Texas
'99 and '05 E55 AMG
I purchased an extra extender harness (the same one that is installed with the latest fuel pumps) and built up a box with two voltage/current meters (DROK meters in a plastic box).
At oil change, pull the rear seat, remove cover over fuel pumps, unplug harness, plug one end of the measuring device harness into the fuel pump connector, and plug the other end of the measuring device harness into the electrical harness in the car.
Upon "key on" I can see the voltage and current come online for about one second to pressurize the fuel rail, then the pumps turn off. Once the engine is turning over with the starter and running, the relay is re-energized and the device measures the voltage and current. About 13.5 amps on one pump and about 3.9 amps on the other pump. I log the info in the maintenance book, then remove the measuring device, reconnect harness to the pumps, install cover, install seat. Takes about 10 minutes which is far better than the hours I spent getting the car home when the old relay melted.
At oil change, pull the rear seat, remove cover over fuel pumps, unplug harness, plug one end of the measuring device harness into the fuel pump connector, and plug the other end of the measuring device harness into the electrical harness in the car.
Upon "key on" I can see the voltage and current come online for about one second to pressurize the fuel rail, then the pumps turn off. Once the engine is turning over with the starter and running, the relay is re-energized and the device measures the voltage and current. About 13.5 amps on one pump and about 3.9 amps on the other pump. I log the info in the maintenance book, then remove the measuring device, reconnect harness to the pumps, install cover, install seat. Takes about 10 minutes which is far better than the hours I spent getting the car home when the old relay melted.