GET A DATA LOGGER!
#1
Super Member
Thread Starter
GET A DATA LOGGER!
All,
The Sr. Members on this Forum will tell this but if you are mindful of your cars performance OR are thinking on modding Step #1 is to get a data logger.
I was at the strip on Saturday (#'s below) and had a few terrible runs. In looking at the logs my IAT went to 193 and my car pulled 13 degrees of timing versus how it performed on the dyno a few days earlier.
Best run Saturday - 12.3 @ 110
Best run 2 weeks earlier - 11.68 @ 116 (IAT's of 173)
I had been having random IAT issues and went to the dyno for a Pull on 10/13 to do some logging. Apparently everything was working PERFECTLY as the numbers were shocking. The logs showed a max IAT was only 102 and timing was 20.9. AFR stayed in the 11 range.
After the pulls the engine was hardly even warm and Pulled 595 RWHP and 600 Torque. Conditions were perfect.
I can tell everyone what to do and not to do with an Innovate LM2. PM for "advice".
You are 100% BLIND if you are not logging (period). I can tell you from experience you will waste money, time, and go through "mental anguish" wondering what the problem is.
I am hoping I have a bad IC pump and am going to start there.
TK
The Sr. Members on this Forum will tell this but if you are mindful of your cars performance OR are thinking on modding Step #1 is to get a data logger.
I was at the strip on Saturday (#'s below) and had a few terrible runs. In looking at the logs my IAT went to 193 and my car pulled 13 degrees of timing versus how it performed on the dyno a few days earlier.
Best run Saturday - 12.3 @ 110
Best run 2 weeks earlier - 11.68 @ 116 (IAT's of 173)
I had been having random IAT issues and went to the dyno for a Pull on 10/13 to do some logging. Apparently everything was working PERFECTLY as the numbers were shocking. The logs showed a max IAT was only 102 and timing was 20.9. AFR stayed in the 11 range.
After the pulls the engine was hardly even warm and Pulled 595 RWHP and 600 Torque. Conditions were perfect.
I can tell everyone what to do and not to do with an Innovate LM2. PM for "advice".
You are 100% BLIND if you are not logging (period). I can tell you from experience you will waste money, time, and go through "mental anguish" wondering what the problem is.
I am hoping I have a bad IC pump and am going to start there.
TK
Last edited by BlackHammer; 10-17-2016 at 10:55 AM.
#6
#7
Super Member
Thread Starter
Glad this talk has finally come to light. I made another post that was too long so no one read it or commented (see link below - comments welcome)...
The point wasn't to grand stand as I am suspect on the #'s.
So, this moves to 2 topics:
1) Type of Dyno - Accurate?
2) Unbelievably low IAT's (maxed at 102ish).
Dyno:
The dyno was a Dynocom. Opinions vary on this if it is accurate dyno or a "dynoqueen". Prior to running I asked what other cars had been on it and results. The shop indicated they had 10 Hellcat's on it and "they all dyno between 660-670 RWHP". Interestingly, my buddies Hellcat dyno'ed at 662 on a Dynojet.
IAT Topic - self explanatory. Not sure if a low IAT = 100+ HP...
Curious on the thoughts on this post.
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...0-cricket.html
The point wasn't to grand stand as I am suspect on the #'s.
So, this moves to 2 topics:
1) Type of Dyno - Accurate?
2) Unbelievably low IAT's (maxed at 102ish).
Dyno:
The dyno was a Dynocom. Opinions vary on this if it is accurate dyno or a "dynoqueen". Prior to running I asked what other cars had been on it and results. The shop indicated they had 10 Hellcat's on it and "they all dyno between 660-670 RWHP". Interestingly, my buddies Hellcat dyno'ed at 662 on a Dynojet.
IAT Topic - self explanatory. Not sure if a low IAT = 100+ HP...
Curious on the thoughts on this post.
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...0-cricket.html
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#8
Super Member
Thread Starter
#9
Question:
I have Kleemann Tune/Headers/Pulley which is mild compared to some of the highly modded cars I see on here.
Do I need a data logger? If so, what make/model and what would it help me with? Thanks.
I have Kleemann Tune/Headers/Pulley which is mild compared to some of the highly modded cars I see on here.
Do I need a data logger? If so, what make/model and what would it help me with? Thanks.
#10
Super Member
Thread Starter
If you are conscious on the performance (see above) get one. I would compare a data logger to an EKG for a patient in the hospital, your task manager on a pc (tells you everything that is going on) or a system monitoring a control system or manufacturing process. The list is endless, you get the picture...
They tell you Air Fuel Ratio, Intake Air Temps, Timing/Spark Advance, Boost, etc.
All of this is critical. My car felt slow lately and was running 150 IAT in 70 degree weather 10 minutes after a quick pull. I wouldn't have known this, only would have known it was slow. You get the picture.
I have an LM2 and there are countless others that are cheaper, easier to use (yes, they may be slower) but give you some insight into what is going on.
TK
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05-E55 (10-22-2016)
#11
Member
Stupid question but does the LM2 log everything through the OBD2 port like the IAT's and timing, or it only does the wideband o2 and you use the Torque app or similar for the rest?
#12
Super Member
Thread Starter
Also, if you want a custom tune all this data is needed.
See the the vid on the process.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=AhkvOLnhI1c
Last edited by BlackHammer; 10-23-2016 at 01:22 PM.
#13
I believe you mentioned in your previous thread about removing a tube from the tank? Is this the same pickup tube I suggested installing a while ago when you were having iat problems after installing the Fabtech Tank? That tube makes no difference on the dyno but not having it out on the road under acceleration it will make a world of difference.
#14
Super Member
Thread Starter
I believe you mentioned in your previous thread about removing a tube from the tank? Is this the same pickup tube I suggested installing a while ago when you were having iat problems after installing the Fabtech Tank? That tube makes no difference on the dyno but not having it out on the road under acceleration it will make a world of difference.
#16
MBWorld Fanatic!
Rocman is correct. You need the pickup tube. Fabtech didn't add it because he's a moron but without it as Rocman says you are sucking in air. Btw dyno is one gear pull. 1/4 is 3 gears. You have to see if anything is happening within the gears. I have seen cars pull timing in between shifts a lot which hurt the 1/4
#17
Super Member
Thread Starter
Rocman is correct. You need the pickup tube. Fabtech didn't add it because he's a moron but without it as Rocman says you are sucking in air. Btw dyno is one gear pull. 1/4 is 3 gears. You have to see if anything is happening within the gears. I have seen cars pull timing in between shifts a lot which hurt the 1/4
Thanks for the comments. I need to start listening to people that is how I got "here" and on the verge of a total rip/replace on my cooling...
This "Pickup Tube" you mention. Where can I buy it?
I removed the inlet tube (aka home made pickup tube) because it was causing a major restriction. Immediately after it was removed I saw movement in the engine bay tank.
The tube was very flimsy and weak...
By "restriction" I mean there was no movement in the engine bay tank whatsoever. It was like sucking too hard out of straw (very little to no air movement). When I added ice the problem compounded exponentially as the tube would get crushed versus choke itself out over time.
Last edited by BlackHammer; 10-24-2016 at 01:35 PM.
#18
Member
MNM5ETR,
You can have a tube made to fit. I would have one made of aluminum and have it attach with a rubber hose (very short, just enough to stop vibration from cracking it). The end should look like an oil pick up. It could even be capped and the bottom opened up close to the bottom of the tank.
Anything that is solid so it does not compress and an opening on the bottom should work. If you can get in there a copper pipe would work and you could sweat a 90 on it. Just make sure to isolate it from tank so it does not crack.
Sean
You can have a tube made to fit. I would have one made of aluminum and have it attach with a rubber hose (very short, just enough to stop vibration from cracking it). The end should look like an oil pick up. It could even be capped and the bottom opened up close to the bottom of the tank.
Anything that is solid so it does not compress and an opening on the bottom should work. If you can get in there a copper pipe would work and you could sweat a 90 on it. Just make sure to isolate it from tank so it does not crack.
Sean
#20
Super Member
Thread Starter
#21
Member
MNM5ETR,
Any fab shop can make it. Worst case get a bulkhead fitting, a piece of aluminum tubing in the form of a J, and a fitting that goes from the tube to the bulkhead fitting. Cut out the outlet fitting and install the bulkhead fitting in its place.
J tube will be new pick up tube.
Sean
Any fab shop can make it. Worst case get a bulkhead fitting, a piece of aluminum tubing in the form of a J, and a fitting that goes from the tube to the bulkhead fitting. Cut out the outlet fitting and install the bulkhead fitting in its place.
J tube will be new pick up tube.
Sean
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Hulk (10-24-2016)
#22
MBWorld Fanatic!