sbc question
12-06-2016, 09:17 PM
#1
sbc question
Ok I think I may have to replace my sbc... I've been reading up and trying to find a concrete answer, but I'm getting conflicting information.
I have the white BRAKE visit workshop message. Which I've been reading is the first warning sign that the SBC is going out (it could be the brake switch under the pedal)
It seams like you need to disable the SBC before working on it. One way is through STAR, but then there is another method of opening the doors, closing them locking/unlocking rolling down the window and then lifting the car. Then you have to do some other series of ignition on/off etc to reactivate.
Can I reaplce the SBC on my own and do the non STAR method to deactivate/activate? Seems like an easy thing to replace and can be done for way less than what shops are asking... If so where's a good place to buy a SBC unit? I take it, probably not a good idea to get a used one?
I have the white BRAKE visit workshop message. Which I've been reading is the first warning sign that the SBC is going out (it could be the brake switch under the pedal)
It seams like you need to disable the SBC before working on it. One way is through STAR, but then there is another method of opening the doors, closing them locking/unlocking rolling down the window and then lifting the car. Then you have to do some other series of ignition on/off etc to reactivate.
Can I reaplce the SBC on my own and do the non STAR method to deactivate/activate? Seems like an easy thing to replace and can be done for way less than what shops are asking... If so where's a good place to buy a SBC unit? I take it, probably not a good idea to get a used one?
12-06-2016, 10:46 PM
#2
Super Member
you can do it without a STAR, but you cannot fully and properly bleed the system without both a STAR and a Motive bleeder. With just a motive bleeder you can get a lot of the way there, but to do it right you need STAR.
Best place for part is mbdirectparts.com its an mb dealer in Omaha. BTW SBC units are now only offered as rebuilt and you cant buy a new one. If you buy a used one you'll likey be in the same boat soon as you have no idea how far into the service life it is (after 300k actuations the thing pops up the message that you need brake service and it needs replaced at that point)
Best place for part is mbdirectparts.com its an mb dealer in Omaha. BTW SBC units are now only offered as rebuilt and you cant buy a new one. If you buy a used one you'll likey be in the same boat soon as you have no idea how far into the service life it is (after 300k actuations the thing pops up the message that you need brake service and it needs replaced at that point)
12-07-2016, 10:31 AM
#3
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'99 and '05 E55 AMG
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...pump-w211.html
Either disable via STAR or unplug the wire harness. Do not attempt to deactivate using the "method" you typed into your initial post. Multiple events will activate the SBC system, and when it activates, the system pressurizes to 900 psi! If actually working on the rotors and pads, one can lose fingers if the system activates while you're handling the calipers; brake fluid in the eyes can also be a bad thing....
Either disable via STAR or unplug the wire harness. Do not attempt to deactivate using the "method" you typed into your initial post. Multiple events will activate the SBC system, and when it activates, the system pressurizes to 900 psi! If actually working on the rotors and pads, one can lose fingers if the system activates while you're handling the calipers; brake fluid in the eyes can also be a bad thing....
12-08-2016, 10:49 AM
#6
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'99 and '05 E55 AMG
But, as Rocman wrote, get the codes read first. It is quite possible you have a brake pad wear sensor indicating you are at 50% or less of pad life.
12-08-2016, 11:57 PM
#7
White is a soft fault indicating you've reached the end of service life. Either unit gets replaced or flashed. Sds will tell you. Red is a hard fault indicating the accumulator or pump has failed. This is the one you don't ignore.
the system tests continuously. It checks the pump pressure, then checks the accumulator. These work in unison. If the pump fails the accumulator is your fail safe so you can get the car stopped. if you use up your accumulator reserve you go into a manual mode of sorts but anyone that has lost a brake booster knows that is truly your last resort.
As stated unplugging the unit is enough, this is how techs do it. You'll be hard pressed to find a tech use the sds to disable the system if they are replacing a unit.
you will need an sds to actually do the job though anyways. Activation, bleeding, then teach in of valve currents. Can't do it correctly without an sds
the system tests continuously. It checks the pump pressure, then checks the accumulator. These work in unison. If the pump fails the accumulator is your fail safe so you can get the car stopped. if you use up your accumulator reserve you go into a manual mode of sorts but anyone that has lost a brake booster knows that is truly your last resort.
As stated unplugging the unit is enough, this is how techs do it. You'll be hard pressed to find a tech use the sds to disable the system if they are replacing a unit.
you will need an sds to actually do the job though anyways. Activation, bleeding, then teach in of valve currents. Can't do it correctly without an sds
Last edited by 210lvr; 12-09-2016 at 12:00 AM.
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12-09-2016, 12:00 AM
#8
White is a soft fault indicating you've reached the end of service life. Either unit gets replaced or flashed. Sds will tell you. Red is a hard fault indicating the accumulator or pump has failed. This is the one you don't ignore.
the system tests continuously. It checks the pump pressure, then checks the accumulator. These work in unison. If the pump fails the accumulator is your fail safe so you can get the car stopped. if you use up your accumulator reserve you go into a manual mode of sorts but anyone that has lost a brake booster knows that is truly your last resort.
As stated unplugging the unit is enough. But you need an sds and power bleeder to actually complete the job.
the system tests continuously. It checks the pump pressure, then checks the accumulator. These work in unison. If the pump fails the accumulator is your fail safe so you can get the car stopped. if you use up your accumulator reserve you go into a manual mode of sorts but anyone that has lost a brake booster knows that is truly your last resort.
As stated unplugging the unit is enough. But you need an sds and power bleeder to actually complete the job.
12-09-2016, 12:09 AM
#9
yes but I'm talking in terms of most likely. Every e55 is a minimum of 10 years old which means you are coming up for unit replacement on a car with average usage. In almost 10 years at a dealer, I can remember 2, maybe 3 stop lamp switches in sbc equipped vehicles that I've done. Every other one has been an sbc unit or a flash for the sbc unit. It can for a fact be the switch but these switches are a different design than the problematic 210/208 style switch so my money is on a much pricier repair 
