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Wanted to post this over here for anybody looking to do similar. There's not a lot over here for sound quality audio installs so I thought I'd add my in progress build.
GEAR
Source Units
Benz COMAND NTG 2.0
Chuwi Hi8 Windows 10 Tablet
Processors
Mobridge DA2 - older unit with optical out -Thanks Don! (6spcoupe)
Helix DSP.2
Gorgeous install....I'd love to pick your brain on a simpler setup for my 06'. Acoustically, I like the factory HK setup in my car. While the system does not POUND, it is clean and more than loud enough for me (old guy).
Essentially I am considering installing a double din receiver so I can have a backup camera, bluetooth iPhone, iPhone music, and retain Sirius. I have used the NVX amp(s) in other cars and been happy so far, so I was planning on using them again. My plan was to retain the factory HK speakers and speaker wire, but I am not sure if this is even possible given that I don't know how the factory has the speakers wired (e.g. fronts appear to have tweeter and 2 woofers and then there is the center channel).
OP - Thanks for the post. Always interesting to see how folks who upgrade their audio do it. I didn't do mine DIY this time as my fabrication skills just aren't worthy, but I did structure the architecture within the parameters of what the dealer/installer rep'd. I used one of the best shops within 200 miles of me and stayed within their offerings. If I'd have done an install with less fab required myself, as in the past, I would probably have used different equipment and would have looked similar to yours, with customized speaker selections. But it turned out okay and looks way better than I could have done.
Learning how to tune the bit10d takes a bit of time to get good at, but ultimately its very flexible and is pretty straightforward. I'll add a pic of my mid pods later.
Loved the ring radiator tweets you used and the scanspeak mids bang. Great choices. Is the DSP.2 laptop configurable?
Gorgeous install....I'd love to pick your brain on a simpler setup for my 06'. Acoustically, I like the factory HK setup in my car. While the system does not POUND, it is clean and more than loud enough for me (old guy).
Essentially I am considering installing a double din receiver so I can have a backup camera, bluetooth iPhone, iPhone music, and retain Sirius. I have used the NVX amp(s) in other cars and been happy so far, so I was planning on using them again. My plan was to retain the factory HK speakers and speaker wire, but I am not sure if this is even possible given that I don't know how the factory has the speakers wired (e.g. fronts appear to have tweeter and 2 woofers and then there is the center channel).
Advice or thoughts ?
Thanks!
If you are going to go aftermarket head unit and amp keeping the HK speakers there are a few things to consider. If you have HK then you've got logic 7 which is essentially 7 channels of speakers. Channels 1 & 2 are the front door woofers and tweeters (2 ohm each wired in parallel for 4 ohms that the amp sees. The tweeter has an inline cap acting as a high pass filter). Channel 3 being the Center channel in the dash. Channels 4 & 5 are the rear door speakers (4 ohm) and Channels 6 & 7 are midrange / fullranges in the Subwoofer assembly on the back deck (4 ohm... pulled one out and measured it just to be sure). Then there is the factory sub dual voice coil (4 ohm per coil wired in parallel for 2 ohms that the amp sees).
If you are set on the NVX Amps I would look at the JAD900.5. Channels 1, 2 & 3 of the Benz running off of Amp channels 1 & 2. Channels 4,5,6 & 7 of the Benz running off of Amp channels 3 & 4 (wired in parallel so that the Amp sees 2 ohm per channel). That Amp will do 2 ohm mono on channel 5 but 8 ohm mono should be more than adequate to push that HK sub as far as it will go.
You won't have any fun getting to the HK Audio Gateway especially if you have the auto trunk closer.
I have attached the Audio Wiring Diagrams for the W211 that should give you an idea of the color code for the speaker outputs coming out of the Audio Gateway since you will be using the factory wiring. I'll just tell you.... the factory HK drivers are good drivers and will sound great with some clean power to them. This issue with the W211 audio is the terrible amplifier / gateway.
OP - Thanks for the post. Always interesting to see how folks who upgrade their audio do it. I didn't do mine DIY this time as my fabrication skills just aren't worthy, but I did structure the architecture within the parameters of what the dealer/installer rep'd. I used one of the best shops within 200 miles of me and stayed within their offerings. If I'd have done an install with less fab required myself, as in the past, I would probably have used different equipment and would have looked similar to yours, with customized speaker selections. But it turned out okay and looks way better than I could have done.
Learning how to tune the bit10d takes a bit of time to get good at, but ultimately its very flexible and is pretty straightforward. I'll add a pic of my mid pods later.
Loved the ring radiator tweets you used and the scanspeak mids bang. Great choices. Is the DSP.2 laptop configurable?
Again, thanks for posting.
Thanks buddy! Working with any of these DSP's takes a little time to get good at but once you have your method down you can work on just about all of them. If you need any assistance or tuning advice pop over to diymobileaudio.com and we'll help you out.
Yes the Helix DSP.2 is configured via laptop. You can check out the specs and options here: Helix DSP.2 DSP Documentation
I'll also be mounting a Windows 10 tablet in the Vehicle and running high resolution audio (24 bit FLAC) off of a 1 TB SSD drive when the Helix USB Audio interface is released (which I've heard from a trusted source should be around the end of January). This will also give me DSP control from the drivers seat.
Last edited by forty5cal1911; 01-04-2017 at 07:00 AM.
I would consider bypassing the center channel altogether or running it off of the head unit (depending on the model) and not the amplifier.
Should be a very solid system and a pretty straightforward install, whether you DIY or have a shop do it.
I know this is not ideal amongst audiophiles, but do you think I could get away with using the factory speaker wires if I am only pushing ~50W ? The idea of running speaker wires to the front and doors is less than appealing to me (I've become lazy in my old age ).
I see you used Acoustic Elegance IB104AU Subwoofer, the price point is appealing, fit seems nice. Do you think most any 10" unit will be pretty straightforward to install?
I'm almost done rebuilding the rear end of my 2007 E63 (M-Factory LSD, Subframe & Suspension Bushings, RMT Air Springs, New Shocks, Hubs, Flanges, Rotors, Pads, Drive Shaft/Tranny Rubber Discs, Rear Main Seal, Shift linkage Bushings, New Flywheel Cap Bolts as well as new bolts all around, Engine and Tranny Mounts, and renewed Steering rack Bushings since I didn't hit those when rebuilding the front! )
So, now that I'm seeing the end of the tunnel on the rear end, my focus now is the Sound System which, as you know, is lacking. I must say though that when I have used the Aux-in from the Glovebox paired with my Cowon Plenum D2 and adjust the sound parameters as can only be done using Cowon's own "JetEffect", which is a DSP in its own right, I have greatly enjoyed the sound even though the power may not be as good as it should be! As such, I have 5-channel Gladen from my last car as well as some Focal F&R speakers I'm intending to employ. The tweeters should be drop ins for the sails. I'm also going to add another 4 Channel Gladen to the mix as well as an Audison Bit Nove DSP. The front Focal "woofers" are 5", so I'm not sure if they'll fit where the front mids go in the foot wells R& L. The Focal Rears are 2 way 6", so those should fit nicely in the rear doors. After viewing the STAR/EPC for my ride, it shows clearly that each door has one 3-way adapter, so this means I'll run 2 wires each side to the front in order to go 3 way active. I'm thinking I'll just cut the Connector after the first link to the Woofer in the door thereby utilizing the OEM wire to the Woofers. The Gladden Amps can run 2-4 ohm no problem, so tapping into the rears after cutting the tweeters will play at 4 ohm and tapping into the OEM subwoofer at 2 ohm should sound a lot better with that much more power! I may opt to drop in some 6.5 " woofers (Focal or other) if things sound shallow , but I'll cross that bridge when I get there.
I intend on mounting the Amps out of the way underneath the rear floor by making a bracket out of 1/8" aluminum/or SS connecting to the Driver Side rear bumper bolts angled in a "V or W" pattern to go around the the spare tire. 2 of 3 items can mount there, either the 5 channel and the 4 or the Audison bit Nove. Being there's about 2 1/4 " between the tool kit, which itself forms around the spare tire, if one were to unmount it, bring it up next to the tire and create extended links for it to mount in the same 2 holes it did originally, then one could potentially mount another 2" Amp along the outside. The gladden amp is exactly 2", that with a 1/8" aluminum mount bracket for the amp with those extended links to secure the toolkit would be tight fit!! I'll let you know!!!
3/20/2021- I ended up getting some Stereo Integrity TM65 mkiii’s for the front as well as their M3 Carbon 3.5” Mid Range Speakers to be mounted in Valicar-Stuttgart A-Pillar swivel Pods. I’m still in the beginning stage. I’m kinda dreading “tapping” into AGW as I DO have the Hydrolic Automatic Trunk Opener/Closer!! I do appreciate the info regarding the Subwoofer being a dual coil at 4 ohm each wired in parallel ending up at 2 Ohm. My Gladen Amps can adjust accordingly w/the 5 channel having a devoted sub channel at 350 Watts, so that should be plenty for the OEM sub, perhaps too much! It’s just good to know that it’s wired in parallel so I can connect each side to the one channel of my Amp.
For the sake of being thorough, I'll answer my own question here. The silver flutes (6.5) will fit in the stock speaker adaptors, so long as you do a few things.
1. The HK speaker is mildly adhered to the speaker housing, so you'll have to gently pry it off. I used a pick tool to squeeze under it, and pry up little by little.
2. Once the HK speaker is out of the way, the silver flute will ALMOST fit directly in. I had to use a sanding barrel and a Dremel to take down some of the thickness of the sidewall of the speaker adapter. in hindsight, you could also take a Dremel and cutoff wheel and just take off that whole sidewall, and the flute will then fit right in. As far as I can see, the sidewall serves no purpose other than to control what size speaker can fit.
3. The depth and magnet size of the silver flute fit without any need for speaker rings or spacers.
4. The HK speaker has 4 screw holes. The silver flute has more, but will only align with two mounting holes. I had to drill out two new holes to match the stock adaptor.
5. The HK speaker's original mounting screws will be too $hort once the silver flute is in. I had to get 5/8ths inch screws, for proper mounting.
Hopefully this will help someone who comes across this in the future.
Hey there fortyCal (sp?). I have certainly read and re-read this post here, but also viewed your input on DIYAudio and am interested in knowing more about the use of the Rasberry with FIR connected to SSD. I just had my AC Evaporator hit the dust, so all my Components have been waiting to be installed for a couple years now, and now is the time to go whole hog and install it right! I also have FlexFilm for all the windows too! I am just figuring which HU to install as I’m leaning towards the Teyes 9” Android with SPIDIF Toslink Out (or Joying 9” which has GPS too!) to my Audison DSP>5+4 Gladen Amps>Stereo Integrity 6.5” & 3.5 Carbon in Valtcar-Stuttgart Pods, 6.5 Focal Coax Rears (from old build) along with Focal Tweets and have a couple Focal 5” Mids to play with, maybe in the rear Deck “Satellite” position, and a JL Sub Enclosure swappable with the OEM Sub for when I need the extra Space, but haven’t pulled the trigger quite yet! Incorporating the Rasberry/USB/SSD into the mix would be killer! The Audison has 2 Toslink-in as well as RCA AUX-in, but since 1 Toslink-in is to be used from the HU, my plan was to have an Audison DAC which accepts either a Coax RCA-in or 3.5mm Mini Jack for my Cowon with the #2 Toslink out. So that would use up the 2 Toslink ports, however the HU itself could conceivably output from the SPIDIF Coax on its rear too, which while not ideal, it would open up one of the Toslink-in ports to the DSP where the signal is more important, right! Moreover, the HU can accept “Data” from 2 USB w/2.0 wired from its rear as well, (Joying has 3!) so that’s a consideration as well. The Android OS could conceivably operate Rasberry’s Software, so that would be a sweet addition!
Also, does your ride have the Auto Trunk Feature, which totally covers the AGW making it all the more difficult to splice into the AGW Speaker Wires? I’m thinking that if I were to remove the Back Seats and even the Rear Window Sunscreen to properly access the Back deck to make larger holes for those 5” Focals, that there must be an access hole Drivers Side? ( I may even bust a move on a Radial Sub for that back deck, but I definitely want to retain that rear sunshade function!) Or am I going to have to Lay Speaker Wire for sure? I certainly don’t want to have to remove the Hydraulics of that Opener if I can avoid it! Man!
I’m stocking up on Dampener too and wanted to know if you ever “fixed” your aluminum door baffle issue? You mentioned getting some Butyl Rope and some Felt Tape. Did that do the trick! I went ahead and bought some 1/16” Lead Roll that I’ll wrap with Dampliner w/Rivnuts to attach!
Also, I must ask, did you circumvent the MOST Bus entirely by attaching female MOST adapters to the CD, NAV and whatever else? My understanding is On-Star/Tele-Aid and the Bluetooth don’t have any to worry about. Might there be another I need to consider? I know one must use Star/Xentry to adjust setting(s) for each Module to be Deleted, in multiple places for each, any info on this would huge! And how about the Steering Control Menu Buttons? Again my understanding from the E55 guys is the Left Menu Buttons supposedly work, but I’m not sure if the same would go for the E63? Certainly the Volume Buttons on the right side need to be tied into with a CANBUS Adapter from the HU Properly Fitted, which is something I’ll certainly be looking to determine from these Forum Threads! I was also wondering if you custom made those Speaker Rings or did you order them from somewhere? I can’t wait to finish my ride with the Cherry on Top! Yeah baby!
01-02-2017, 03:49 PM
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