I believe all eurocharged companies run dynojet dynos... at least for the majority they do...

I know this one here at Eurocharged Canada is a Dynojet. Other mods.. ill try to be short about it:

Eurocharged mid length headers, custom stainless 2.5" straight pipe exhaust with custom xpipe, oem mufflers are still on the car, split cooling, engine bay reservoir, FTP heat exchanger, johnson cm30 pump, my own custom designed 77mm fixed pulley, my own custom designed belt wrap kit, 550cc injectors, 90mm throttle body, welded machine and ported my intake snout myself, dual 3 inch intake from NeedsWings, and its really a box tune slightly modified by Eurocharged Canada. All we did was take my fixed pulley tune and slightly lean it out a bit. those are just the performance mods. No meth, no nitrous, nothing extra aside from the "bolt ons".

Like i said, probably not the highest numbers ever, but we didnt run any ice in the coolant reservoir, we didnt ice the supercharger or anything, and after quite a few hard pulls, she was definitely heat soaked, you could feel the head waves coming off of the car, and she still managed a 542hp and 620ftlbs at the wheels. If I was to bring the car back today being that its cooler and the car would get a chance to run cooler, it would definitely put down 550rwhp guaranteed. Even the guys at eurocharged said yeah this car can easily make 550rwhp if it wasnt so hot.

Good luck with sale man. For those considering the throttle body, get it. right out of the box she makes almost 30whp. before any tuning my car made 528rwhp and 617rwtq with it. i lost zero torque and gained 28whp. worth every penny.

One small "complaint" check engine light for idle air control valve.. has any one figured out how to solve this?

I re-routed all the pcv hoses to be exactly like factory, the crank case breathers are installed after the TB just like factory, I drilled and tapped a hole with a barbed fitting... still cant seem to clear it out.

any ideas?

raise the in gear and out of gear idle speed in DAS.

Considering this mod, I would love to know if this resolved the CEL and please report back if you have any "Lean Hiccup" issues

The gain is about 30hp
Don't raise the idle
Shouldn't have to check your hoses for vac Leaks

I've got no leaks anywhere, all vacuum lines and ports have either been re-routed or blocked (like that plastic plug that did nothing, drilled it tapped it and used it as the "port" for the crank case breather hoses. the other small vacuum lines have been replaced and i double checked all the points were sealed.

So Hulk, is there any solution for the IACV error? id love to get rid of the CEL on the dash, its kind of a pet peeve seeing it there.

In case there aren't any solutions come emissions time, i may end up creating a plate to re-install the oem throttle body, do a throttle body reset, get the emissions test done and then put the 90mm back on after.

What code are you getting exactly?

Off the top of my head, I can't remember, I'll give the car a scan tonight to get the exact P-Error code number, but the error message contained Idle Air Control Valve. Once I have it, I'll either attach a picture of the screen or simply type the error code out.

I have had a "pending" MAP sensor code for the longest time, almost ever since having the fixed pulley, but its never thrown a check engine light. According to the guys here at Eurocharged Canada, they said its normal on the fixed pulley cars on cold starts, they say it helps to put the key into position 2 and wait 20-30 seconds before starting... cant say it's made a difference or not.

Thanks,
Pete.

Nicegain

That map sensor cold came on before or after the bigger tb?

nice gains! that car must feel awsome.

This is right off of the Eurocharged website. I had the idle speed code the day after installing the 82mm and raised idle with das right after and cleared the code. No code since then.

Have done many and never recommend raising idle
If done right idle will be perfect with no surging

That was also for the audi tb that needed pin swapping

Never had a problem with a check engine light mine was plug and play after making the wiring harness and changing out the intake .

The map code is sporadic on the ecu
Happens to 03-06

Some are lucky when they go to the bigger tb and have no issues and then you will have the ones that get map code/lean hiccup
Nothing to do with intake or plenum

If I have had issues with lean/hiccup mode on my cls55 from a vac leak so xo you think im at higher risk of having issues ECU issues with a bigger throttle body? Why do these ecus crap out and go into engine destroy mode if a parameter is off?

Hey guys, I was just perusing around the forum and came across this thread and realized you all are complaining about the same exact symptoms I was having in my S55.

After applying about 15-25% throttle, the vehicle would accelerate through first, shift into second then lunge forward (like it was engaging the supercharger or closing the bypass valve). To be honest, I thought this was a characteristic of the clutched supercharger.

In the process of blindly replacing things to fix my lack of upshifting under high load, I replaced my trans fluid, filter and conductor plate. After replacing these things, the car has completely stopped surging under all conditions.

I do not know what was causing it, but I figured you guys would want to know as it sounds like you're chasing your tails with this issue. My car is completely stock. I am also receiving a lean condition code in bank 1 which I associate to a fuel stratification issue from leaking injectors.

That's completely different
That as clutch engagement which is normal btw

How do you know you are getting lean condition?
Obd code?

Hey Hulk,

Sorry for leaving this thread alone for a while, have been way too busy with other things. After reading the rest of the thread, some say raise the idle, and there are others saying do a TB adaptation via STAR. I do not have STAR at the moment. Is there a way to adapt the throttle body without STAR? One method presented itself, whether its a "real" method or not, this is what I found:

Step 1 - Disconnect Battery
Step 2 - Unplug Throttle body
Step 3 - Connect Battery
Step 4 - Put Key in car and turn to Ignition 2, but do not start vehicle.
Step 5 - Wait for ESP Malfunction message on dash.
Step 6 - Turn key back to Ignition 1.
Step 7 - Plug throttle body back in.
Step 8 - Turn key to Ignition 2, wait 3 minutes.
Step 9 - Turn key to OFF & pull out key.
Step 10 - Put key in and start car.

This method works until the car gets into its "readiness" stage, 50-60kms and a few starts and stops (like engine off, engine back on).

That's when the check engine light comes back on. With the check engine light on, on a cold start (like the next morning) she will idle like a cammed hot rod engine for 30 seconds and then she smooths out. But when shes driving, she stutters under the tip in, and beyond the tip in, she goes mental. so its like stutter stutter BANG power. After she warms up, I can re-start the car and she runs and sounds normal again... Weird right?

Cheers,
Pete.

What are your afrs when she idles rough?

Couldn't tell ya, I don't use any data logging equipment.

But If I had to guess, rich, the exhaust STINKS like raw fuel, and I mean STINKS. You can't be behind the car for more than 10 seconds without feeling your lungs collapse. The car is straight piped (headers, no cats, no res, OEM mufflers) and i know what she smells like running normally, when she idles rough, it almost sounds like misfiring. if you touch the throttle, she sounds like she wants to stall.

Yes I know that and have seen it on a few cars with the bigger than 80mm
Is running very lean st that point and is going to a diff map
Restarting the car sets it right again but will get set off again while driving and that's where it can get dangerous because without knowing you can get lean and punch it and boom

The reset procedure you posted on top will work for resyncing the tb but won't help in your instance

This is a tune issue and many threads have been written about it as well
(I will post them up)

Some ECUs just don't like a bigger tb than 80mm, nothing to do with year or model so it's hard to pinpoint and you have to work diligently with your tuner to try to fix it

Denroll tried for a long time and still couldn't get it

The tuners have to find the reasoning why the ecu flips to another map