MACEDON

Title

I assume Maxlife is not it.... been googling this for months but I can't come to a conclusion believe it or not.

I know OEM fluid is bae, but my anus is not prepared for the cost.

I read Shell ATF 134 somewhere, can anyone confirm?

As a preventative measure I want to drain the plug and match the amount about every 10-15k miles (I don't wanna hear it, I am very interested in maximizing my tranny's life)

f8l ws6

I used the Shell ATF 134 when I changed fluid back in 2013. Which was at the time the acceptable fluid to use. Not sure if anything better has come about since then. Trans been running and shifting perfectly.

This is what I used :

pumpedTSI

I "think" I used Febi fluid made by Bilstein.....pretty sure it was manufacturer recommended....kinda hard to find tho....

E42AMG???

I'm a dexron guy

E42AMG???

big fan of shell for every other fluid

MACEDON

Shell it is then.

Just wanna make sure, maxlife is definitely not a fit for these boxes right?

cetialpha5

Find a shell distributor in your state. Was about $60 for a case of 12 quarts.

http://www.shell.us/business-custome...RzL3B1YmxpYy8=

The site just lists headquarters of the distributors in the state, but they may have multiple locations.

StarvingArtist

Maxlife is supposed to meet the spec, but don't use it. Pelican parts carries the updated stuff, or go with 134

MACEDON

Oh btw I got word from my indy that BG ATF is bad for our cars, some dealership had been using it in lieu of OEM fluid and something bad happened, it gunked up seals or something and he was very strict about using nothing but MB fluids in my car. It added a bit to the cost but of the tranny service but I'm not too worried.

Will shell distributors have the 5w40 Rotella for gas engines? I can't find it anywhere.

Elhonaz

Fuchs 4134 is the way to go

cetialpha5

Rotella is typically a diesel oil and only meets MB 228.31. For many reasons, while you can use a diesel oil in a gasoline car, a better oil would be one that is meant for gasoline cars. You could probably still run an MB 229.51/229.52 oil, but it's not really that good to go to 10k with those oils, whereas you would be fine with a 229.5 oil. And Rotella doesn't even meet 229.51/229.52.

GrumpyDad

I use Shell ATF134. It's on MBZ's sheet and is the best price / value I could find from our oil supplier.

pearlpower

When I rebuilt it last-wow, that long ago, I used Shell 134. No issues, and flushed it twice since the rebuild. I replace the filter each time. At the time I bought several cases and they were very inexpensive at the time. 17k miles ago. Yeah, I do not drive it much.

https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...uild-pics.html

bayhas

Shell 134 here as well. Approved by MB and offers best value.

carguyshu

maxlife does NOT meet current spec. only use fluid that meets current spec. here is a list of all the fluids that meet current spec, and using any of them would be fine as they ALL USE THE EXACT SAME ADDITIVE PACKAGE (meaning there is no performance difference between them).

https://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevol...236.14_en.html

most likely the shell will be the cheapest.

Member Glyn M Ruck helped develop the new standard. Read this thread & his comments with post #6 being important as well as his comments regarding flushing. You will want to get as much of the old fluid out as possible and a flush (which can be performed by removing the return line at the transmission and letting the car run until no more fluid pumps out as this is the specified method WIS has for transmission flushing)

https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...722-6-atf.html

carguyshu

Replace filter and electrical connector while you are changing fluid (the connector has a tendency to start leaking and fluid will wick up through the wires and into the TCU and ruin it).

Consider a conductor plate and the sonnax sleeve kit while you are at it as well. Earlier models of the conductor plate don't have the same reinforcement as the current MB part number and over time will develop a crack in the plastic holding one of the speed sensors.

StarvingArtist

What is a sleeve kit?

pumpedTSI

​​​​​​​sleeve kit is a new grommet and wiring plug socket for the 722.6 to prevent atf wicking up the wiring loom to the TCU and damaging it.....easy to do, cheap and good insurance...

BoostedAero

Incorrect

The sleeve kit in reference is actually Sonnax "control overlap sleeve kit" for the Valve Body of the trans.

Most noticeable is the 2-3 flare that occurs as the factory valve is aluminum on an aluminum valve body, it wears down over time and doesnt hold the pressure to accurately actuate the shift. The Sonnax kit uses a ever so slightly different sized valve but it has o-rings seated in a groove to help them seal. The kit comes with 3 valves to replace in the VB and it cost roughly $75

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sonnax-68942...-/350713828739

You are referring to the pilot bearing to replace to prevent wicking to the trans controller below the passenger carpet , that too is a great item to replace.

MACEDON

I've replaced the conductor plate on a W209 before and I'm fully aware how fun it is to do... I did check the cable it had no fluid on it so the plug is good, but eventually it'll need changing as a preventative measure.

The sonnax stuff I am not confident I can do though I feel as if I'm going to get the valve body dirty or mess something up while it's out. I almost want to just replace the whole valve body with a new one if I ever remove it.

pumpedTSI

Boosted,
Thanks for clearing that up......dont want screwy info out there. I did my conductor plate update with the wiring loom/socket improvement and even for me it was a tad intimidating and tough for one person (its heavy and you need 2 people really to remove/reinstall) but worth the peace of mind.
I dont see the Febi tranny fluid mentioned but I used it and had no issues.....I think its as good as the shell but to each his own....

MACEDON

It really helps to open it, drain fluid, undo the bolts partially so the body still hangs and then it will drip even more, put the pan back on, leave it over night, come back the next day and use a clean forearm to push it up as you undo all the bolts with your left arm.

Putting it in is a b, but I propped it with my forearm again and did the magic with the other hand... then I snapped the bushing on the conductor plate when I was bolting the plug back in... worst feelinng ever.