It took me a few hours to install the BC coilovers set over the weekend the job was not that bad. Impact wrench definitely helped a lot. I love the way the car drives now. still have to dial it and lower the car. I will post pics soon. I think its well worth the $995 for the coilovers and the $350 for the rear control arms. The hardest part was the rear control bolt it does not have to be pulled out all the way when it hits the rear caliper line. you have room to pry out the old control arm.

How much work is involved in adjusting the rear height? I'm getting sick of the airmatic errors & sloppy handling but will go nuts if the coilovers squeak...

Did you keep all the old airmatic stuff installed? (compressor etc)

How many click front and rear ?

That wheel fitment tho

in previous thread i read about the rear spring rate. i dialed them to middle of sleeve to keep it nice and firm. i have 90k miles on my car and when i took off the rear lower control arm to install the new e350 control arm. bushing on the old e55 control arm was toast too. glad i did it. the car now feels like a real sports car. it handles like its on rail. yes rear it complicated to adjust but you have to use a flat head screw driver to brake loose the locks to adjust the rears. but in every german car i ever owned with coilovers i had to do samething. night and day from crapmatic.

the rear is 25 clicks to keep it from dipping everytime i hit the gas front is 20 clicks and loving the set up.

that was old style poke i was going for not fun when you want to hit the gas peddle and the back is rubbing like crazy. went with more smooth classy look

that pic is where airmatic.

some of pics of install



the set up



you can adjust the length of coilovers



nice quality set up. i have had H&R, ksport to KW on all my german cars not bad for the price



blown out crapmatic



the rear set up, so the skinny control arm take the bolt of from the spindle and push up on it. take the sway bar link off completely off to work better. make sure to have rear end both off ground to get the sway links off easy. the lower control arm long *** bolt spray some DW40 to break loose all the rust and corrosion of that big bolt imo. cut the air bag lines to take them off easily. pry the lower control arm from spindle.



this is on the driver side crapmatic pump. i took it off.





two screws and some clips take off both sides



i took tank off for the rear air bags.



what a ***** you have to hold the tip and use an open end wrench to take off both.<br/>

You are giving me ideas, I might have to join the club and ditch that airmatics. NY/NJ roads are too crappy.

Where did you get the control arms?

Good writeup. How high can the ridehight be set? I really dont want a low or slammed car.

from the benz dealership . they around 43580 for the pair you have to ask for e320 rear control arms.

i used to live in bergen county an cruise around ny all weekend i feel your pain. but it gotten better up there imo

the coilovers can be raised pretty high and you can only go so low before the treads hit the bottom of the base. i tested them out

How you guys adjust the rear coils?

Spring perch height has nothing to do with spring rate, it only adjusts ride height and corner weight

My question is, how did you adjust the length of the rear dampers, sorry for confusion. not the length of the springs. They are seperatly

Once you get it dialed, let us know the best differences you noticed.. please

That is way stiffer than I like on the roads out here in NJ, I am at about 17 in the front and 19 on the rear.

Couldn't be happier with the ride, and to be rid of that airmatic problem.

Most of the setups here are stiffer on the rear than on the front.

My car feel harsh with 20 click front and 15 rear. And I am not sure handle any better.
I don't recommend to anyone with Pano roof.

Change your setting to softer, if it's too harsh.

How low can they go when they're maxed out on the lowest setting? I'm looking into the extreme lows or the normal BRs.