Just purchased 2nd e55 to put on a diet.
10-13-2017, 01:16 PM
#27
MBWorld Fanatic!
My drag wheels (CLK 16s with Hoosier 255/50/16s) is probably 50 lbs lighter each haha. I haven't actually weighed the difference but I would bet at least 50 each. The CLK rim is 14 lbs, I bought mine for best offer $90 each from here but I don't see any that cheap any more at the moment: http://www.ebay.com/itm/391871157217?rmvSB=true
Other style CLK rims and most other 16" rims will not fit, has to be the style you see in the link above.
You might be able to call the shop in the ebay link above and see if they can still sell them.
Other style CLK rims and most other 16" rims will not fit, has to be the style you see in the link above.
You might be able to call the shop in the ebay link above and see if they can still sell them.
10-13-2017, 01:43 PM
#28
I think you're being a little overly optimistic. My stock rears weighed 53 lb each according to my bathroom scale. The CLK rims are 14 lb, the Hoosiers are 22 lb (according to Tire Rack), plus you'll add another 2 lb or so for the spacers and longer bolts, bringing the total weight of each CLK setup to about 38 lb. That's about a 15 lb savings per side. Of course it's saving rotating mass, so there's a multiplier effect, but I don't know how to calculate that.
10-19-2017, 10:58 PM
#31
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Overall you really need to go hardcore to get anywhere on these things, I've done the real simple stuff batteries, seats and have saved 130ish lbs, will pin the hoods soon that can save between 20 to 30 lbs depending on what I want to do with the latching mechs. I see maybe 150lbs without going nuts. To get to 200+lbs I'll need to go with polycarb, which I'd like to do but I don't really have the skills for that so I need to find somebody to do it. Wheels are the next big win, then two piece rotors, so I'd be at roughly 300lbs at that point. That would be about 60ish hp net equivalent, not really exciting but is healthier for the car.
hmm still a work in progress.
hmm still a work in progress.
10-20-2017, 02:43 AM
#32
Senior Member
I agree. I’d be tempted to chuck all the interior and go bare shell but then why do it to the four door saloon when a CLK or a C class coupe can do it even better.
10-20-2017, 09:28 PM
#33
Junior Member
Thread Starter
thanks, Yes no doubt a 2 door would be a better start, just don't like the looks of the clk. Now a c class is not a bad idea but like I said paid next to nothing for the e55.
10-20-2017, 09:45 PM
#34
Next you can start looking at removing unnecessary equipment. I'm sure there is more depending on what you are willing to sacrifice but off the top of my head:
- Sunroof: Even if you leave the sunroof in place, you could potentially remove the motor and maybe some more hardware associated with it? Just leaving it closed and disabled.
- EGR Valves(If you're cool w check engine light): I read in a post some where that they pulled the EGR valves and then tapped/threaded the holes to plug them. In this thread some one talks about removing EGR and then disassembling the dash, covering the check engine light with electrical tape so it doesn't show haha. https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...gr-valves.html
- SAI: (If you're cool with check engine light): Can remove SAI pump and hardware
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dirtbagit (10-27-2017)
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dirtbagit (10-27-2017)
10-27-2017, 12:17 AM
#36
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I know you said you don't want to pull out the sound dampening matting, but you should pull up the floor and see how thick that **** is.
Next you can start looking at removing unnecessary equipment. I'm sure there is more depending on what you are willing to sacrifice but off the top of my head:
Next you can start looking at removing unnecessary equipment. I'm sure there is more depending on what you are willing to sacrifice but off the top of my head:
- Sunroof: Even if you leave the sunroof in place, you could potentially remove the motor and maybe some more hardware associated with it? Just leaving it closed and disabled.
- EGR Valves(If you're cool w check engine light): I read in a post some where that they pulled the EGR valves and then tapped/threaded the holes to plug them. In this thread some one talks about removing EGR and then disassembling the dash, covering the check engine light with electrical tape so it doesn't show haha. https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...gr-valves.html
- SAI: (If you're cool with check engine light): Can remove SAI pump and hardware
Seems to me that the headers on back on these things are heavy, is there anything that can be one in that area?
10-27-2017, 01:21 PM
#37
Ok my garage is not heated so I'm not going to do much on it for a while, but I'm going to gut the sound proofing for sure and also gutting the rear doors and fixing windows in place and hoping to replace glass with polycarb some day.
Seems to me that the headers on back on these things are heavy, is there anything that can be one in that area?
Seems to me that the headers on back on these things are heavy, is there anything that can be one in that area?
I believe a set of long tube headers already removes the main cats and resonators. Mid length install will leave the resonators but still remove the main cats, and shorties will leave everything and just remove the factory manifold.
Or if you wanted to save save the muffler/exhaust tip look you can gut the mufflers. There is a thread on here about it. It seems most people believe the change in sound is minimal but those suckers are packed full of ****.
10-27-2017, 02:15 PM
#38
MBWorld Fanatic!
The factory mid-section is pretty dang heavy, and I assume the resonator and mufflers are too. Go old-school and install a pair of header mufflers with turn-downs. Remove the rest of the exhaust and put on an E500 rear bumper for good measure. ;-)
10-29-2017, 12:38 PM
#39
Member
it has a rebuilt title so it was very cheap has some miles don't really care what happens in the end.
Putting second e55 on a diet, only rules are that it looks normal from the outside and maintains safety equipment.
starting with seats, will use jegs if they will fit, just 2 up front rears gone. Removing all the hood and trunk lift gear will pin if I can, shelling out the rear doors window will be in up position also might seal the rear doors and remove hinge equipment, don't have a plan for this part yet. Doing lighter battery and wheels, Think the sound system in this thing is heavy probably will remove that too. Don't think I'll pull the sound absorbing material.
Might switch to coilovers, pulling the air compressors too.
so the question is what else can I pull following my simple rules.
if I could save 500lbs that would be awesome, might need to stay away from the beer for awhile.
Not to concerned if I don't get there just messing around.
Putting second e55 on a diet, only rules are that it looks normal from the outside and maintains safety equipment.
starting with seats, will use jegs if they will fit, just 2 up front rears gone. Removing all the hood and trunk lift gear will pin if I can, shelling out the rear doors window will be in up position also might seal the rear doors and remove hinge equipment, don't have a plan for this part yet. Doing lighter battery and wheels, Think the sound system in this thing is heavy probably will remove that too. Don't think I'll pull the sound absorbing material.
Might switch to coilovers, pulling the air compressors too.
so the question is what else can I pull following my simple rules.
if I could save 500lbs that would be awesome, might need to stay away from the beer for awhile.
Not to concerned if I don't get there just messing around.
10-31-2017, 08:34 PM
#40
MBWorld Fanatic!
The front of the e55 has been lightened to offset the sc.
Fenders and hood are aluminum.
Before you figure CF I would determine the heaviest pieces. Hood still seems heavy.
Fenders and hood are aluminum.
Before you figure CF I would determine the heaviest pieces. Hood still seems heavy.
11-01-2017, 12:19 AM
#41
Member
