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Hi everybody I am writing about my problem with cooling I installed a brand new Bosch pump and a killer chiller removed the heat exchanger but I am getting so much heat soak !!! The coolant in the engine bay tank is cold!! But one hard pull the car just dies !? Could the shop have done something wrong to install it ? That was highest I had seen after one hard pull
Hi everybody I am writing about my problem with cooling I installed a brand new Bosch pump and a killer chiller removed the heat exchanger but I am getting so much heat soak !!! The coolant in the engine bay tank is cold!! But one hard pull the car just dies !? Could the shop have done something wrong to install it ? That was highest I had seen after one hard pull
EDIT: You need a large capacity of cold water if you are going to remove your heat exchanger. IE: A trunk tank plumbed in series with your system. You can do remove the heat exchanger with just the factory cross connected coolant reservoir.
You REMOVED your heat exchanger?!?!?!!??!?!?!??!!!!!!!!!
Just so you know, killer chiller is supplemental to the heat exchanger, not a replacement. If you mean what you said, which is that you took off and did not replace the heat exchanger, that's why. You have to put it back on haha.
Killer chiller uses the factory ac to do some pre-cooling. It doesn't have any where near the required cooling capacity to be your sole cooling component.
well I had read ppl on here had removed the heat excahger so I did it to Idk 😦 so I removed the heat exchanger and installed it there . Couldn’t find any room so putting the heat exchanger back on will solve the problem?
well I had read ppl on here had removed the heat excahger so I did it to Idk �� so I removed the heat exchanger and installed it there . Couldn’t find any room so putting the heat exchanger back on will solve the problem?
Yeah man, you have to get that heat exchanger back in. Once you pull the KC out, and get the heat exchanger back in, here is some ones blog that should help getting the KC in correctly.
EDIT: I'm wrong, some people are removing heat exchangers, I don't image this would work without a huge trunk tank though. Do you have a massive reservoir in your trunk?
If you are still using the OEM tank cross connected with engine coolant that is your problem. You need a large reservoir that is not just a surge tank but plumed in series with your IC and pump. Basically what the guys are doing that are running this way are just pre-cooling the intercooler coolant and having a large enough water capacity that a pull doesn't deplete the cold water stored in the tank. This is only good for short pulls, basically drag racing. After each run you will need to let IC coolant circulate long enough through the KC system to fully cool all of the coolant in the system again. The KC still doesn't have the capacity to remove the SC heat, its just the large capacity of pre-cooled water that is doing the cooling.
The sheer fact that your intake temps are now 277F, BTW I've never heard a intake temp that high, just proves it's nuts removing the h/x.. I would definitely put that back in place. Then your killer chiller can cool your intake temps to possibly below ambient temp when you give it enough time between pulls.. And your overall intake temp will never get that high.
Quote "Killer chiller uses the factory ac to do some pre-cooling. It doesn't have any where near the required cooling capacity to be your sole cooling component."
This is a false statement. I have a KC installed with the factory HE blocked off an I can isolate the cabin evaporator if AC isn't needed. I have a temp probe in the top of my tank. The KC keeps my tank water 25-30 deg F colder than ambient during cruise. The theoretical coldest a HE will get the tank water is ambient so a HE will heat that water and work against the KC. I have had to put a bit of glycol anti freeze into the water as I have often seen the KC water below freezing on cooler days. A hard pull from say 60-100mph will raise the tank water by 10 deg F but then it gets rapidly cooled again. I am having issues with 'hunting' which is the KC supplied TX valve not happy. I see the water cooling in the tank but then sometimes stopping and rising under steady cruise before dropping again. I have an externally adjustable TX valve ordered which should allow adjustment to stop the hunting. Despite this the tank water is always less than ambient. The KC is a great investment if installed correctly and you can monitor the water temp.
Quote "Killer chiller uses the factory ac to do some pre-cooling. It doesn't have any where near the required cooling capacity to be your sole cooling component."
This is a false statement. I have a KC installed with the factory HE blocked off an I can isolate the cabin evaporator if AC isn't needed. I have a temp probe in the top of my tank. The KC keeps my tank water 25-30 deg F colder than ambient during cruise. The theoretical coldest a HE will get the tank water is ambient so a HE will heat that water and work against the KC. I have had to put a bit of glycol anti freeze into the water as I have often seen the KC water below freezing on cooler days. A hard pull from say 60-100mph will raise the tank water by 10 deg F but then it gets rapidly cooled again. I am having issues with 'hunting' which is the KC supplied TX valve not happy. I see the water cooling in the tank but then sometimes stopping and rising under steady cruise before dropping again. I have an externally adjustable TX valve ordered which should allow adjustment to stop the hunting. Despite this the tank water is always less than ambient. The KC is a great investment if installed correctly and you can monitor the water temp.
Something wrong with the installation.
I already pointed out my first statement was wrong
He didn't specify but I believe his problem is that he removed the heat exchanger, installed KC on an other wise factory cooling system with no trunk tank, just the factory cross connected coolant reservoir.
Edited my first post to minimize the number of people posting about that, that didn't read the rest of the thread
Well I am tired of it so I am at the point just pulling it so I can have my car running the way it was again . So I am going back to the heat exchanger and a superflo pump and a secondary heat exchanger with the engine bay tank . I don’t think it was installed right because the coolant in the engine bay is cold! But then for some reason it’s just not right .if I don’t keep it I will probably trade it for a 80mm pulley
I already pointed out my first statement was wrong
He didn't specify but I believe his problem is that he removed the heat exchanger, installed KC on an other wise factory cooling system with no trunk tank, just the factory cross connected coolant reservoir.
Edited my first post to minimize the number of people posting about that, that didn't read the rest of the thread
My apologies for missing your correction. You are correct, the cold tank water is what feeds the IC during a pull. The tank is filled straight from the KC. Neither a KC or a HE will have much of an effect on cooling the water during a pull as there is not enough time involved to really make a difference and the AC compressor is freewheeling during a pull in any event. My under hood tank and the associated plumbing etc fills with 2.5 gal. Neither method will be of much use without a tank. Of course those who do road track work or speed events will need more water as in a trunk tank. For everyday driving with the odd squirt or hard pull, the KC is the way to go. The new Dodge Demon also uses an extra evaporator and runs the AC either to that or the cabin evaporator but not both. That car also has a big HE however I believe it is only active when the extra evaporator is not. An extra evaporator after the IC and before the KC will speed up tank water recovery but only down to ambient temp, from there it will slow it.
I want to attach an image of my tank but there is no "manage attachments" option at the bottom like there always used to be. Help?
Well we figured it out this morning one of the forum member on here named blackhammer really helped me out all I had to do was bleed the system car runs 10times better then before so thanks to everybody !!. Just waiting for the vrp superflo pump now .
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