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Does anyone know where you can find one of the older BIP crank pin kits? Shown below. They look pretty stout and use a new pin 180 degrees from the stock key way.
The ASP one is using the existing key way as holding all the force with two other pins added. But still it seems the load is on the factory key way. Not sure if that's the way to go but Shardul offers them for $80.00. Any tips from the big crank pulley guys out there?
I used the Weistec kit to pin. I ended up using 6mm hardened steel for the pins and drilled a little deeper with TTP hardened 6mm bits and then milled the shanks of 2 bits to create the pins with the exact depth I wanted. The pins I used sit flush with the face of the crank pulley and are visible once the bolt is removed. On the crank snout side the pins sit on the outside of the front crank seal. The pins are in the 9 and 3 o’clock positions relative to a 12 o’clock key way. Hope that helps Gary. Peace of mind is well worth the time invested in this modification. Who wants to deal with a sheared key way right?
Happy New Years Everyone 🤘🏻
This was right before I tapped the pins into place
Perfect. So how hard is it to drill the crank and pulley and keep it all square and straight. Seems the hub would be softer and bias the drill bit away from the crank...no? Clearly the kit must work but just asking before I dive in.
Also how did you hold the crank ? With the flex plate tool or crank pulley tool?
Perfect. So how hard is it to drill the crank and pulley and keep it all square and straight. Seems the hub would be softer and bias the drill bit away from the crank...no? Clearly the kit must work but just asking before I dive in.
Also how did you hold the crank ? With the flex plate tool or crank pulley tool?
It really isn’t that bad so long as you take ur time and don’t let the bit heat up. I bought a 10 pack of TTP bits and used maybe 3 bits being OCD. Spray cutting fluid, Drill, back out, clean debris out, spray, drill, back out, clean, spray, drill, clean, spray, drill, clean...
you get the point
Sharp bits give precision while drilling. I do not think you will have an issue at all.
I used a new OEM bolt and borrowed an OEM crank holding tool. Set oven to 200* crank pulley into oven 20 mins, lube snout up. Put on some welding leather gloves and let thermodynamics do their job and the crank pulley will just slide on once the key is lined up. I used a little thread locker and over torqued bolt to +120 degrees. She has been solid for 10k miles now and doing good (knocks on wood)
Getting the bolt locked down was the hardest part.
I have a BIP kit and will loan it out for $50. You will need the drill bits and the pin. P/M me if you are interested. I will need a refundable $100 deposit via PayPal.
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