Rear Suspension Refresh
03-14-2018, 11:57 AM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Rear Suspension Refresh
Calling bbirdwell, shardul, etc
I'm looking to do a full refresh on the rear suspension. Looking for a comprehensive list of everything I should be replacing and any worth-while upgrades while I've got everything apart.
I'm looking to do a full refresh on the rear suspension. Looking for a comprehensive list of everything I should be replacing and any worth-while upgrades while I've got everything apart.
03-14-2018, 01:19 PM
#2
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Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Republic of Texas
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'99 and '05 E55 AMG
Parts that I replaced:
- 2 each 222-352-08-65, Bushing, 25.83 each, $51.66 total. (this is the inner bushing)
- 2 each 003-990-34-12, Screw, 10.27 each, $20.54 total. (inner bushing bolt, triple-square, it's going to be rusted)
- 2 each 0000000-003276, Nut, 1.56 each, $3.12 total. (for inner bushing bolt)
-Parts cost $88.48 to include S&H.
-Bushing press/pull kit $119 from Amazon. Required to press/pull the inner bushings. "27-piece universal press & pull sleeve kit bush bearing removal insertion set".
-Triple-square bit required to remove inner bushing bolts.
Outer bushings are not replaceable; you have to replace the entire control arm. I bought from Parts Geek and they still weren't cheap:
-Removed and replaced rear control arms. $508.61 (if bolts won't pass through, just rotate the two halves of the control arm around the outer bushing until bolt holes line up). The press bushing in the hub may have a gap too small to pass the new outer bushing through, I used a miniature file to cut a small "ramp" or "angle" about 0.004" so I could get the new control arm outer bushing started. See photos here: https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ml#post7397023
You'll need a 1/2" drive 10mm allen-head bit (~$8) to remove the bolt from the outer bushing. To do that you have to remove/lift/shift the rear brake caliper which uses one-time use bolts. Disable SBC or be very, very careful to prevent activation of the SBC unit (e.g. open door, set parking brake, unlock/lock using key fob, etc).
-Rear bolts A211-423-00-71, two per caliper, cost is ~$3 per bolt; torque to 115 Nm (85 ft-lbs). You'll need a 12mm x 1.5mm tap (~$8) for these threads to remove the old microencapsulation compound from the hub before you install the new bolts.
-Rear Arnott air springs. Arnott A-2559. $604.58
For the rear air springs:
-Lift car.
-Use DAS to reduce air spring pressure to ~3 bar. Loosen air lines on T-block at rear of car. Use DAS to complete releasing air bag pressure to atmosphere.
-Replace rear air springs; do not tighten bolts.
-Tighten fittings on air suspension junction block. Note: do not over-torque! Literally inch-pounds.
-Use STAR to place ~0.5 Bar pressure in air springs.
-Use floor jack to raise control arm to ~-1.2 degrees drive axle angle (hub end higher than differential end); verify air bag is not sticking out sideways (like this < or >). Use DAS to inflate air bag to 2 Bar and verify air springs are straight. Torque lower air spring bolt to correct value. Lower the control arm to full extension of air spring. Inflate to 5 Bar. Verify air spring is straight. Repeat for other side.
-Lower car onto suspension, start car and let the air springs inflate to the programmed ride height using the compressor and reservoir. (I had an older battery in the car and tried this without starting the car. The battery could not support the procedure and the process shut down. Starting the car provided enough power to complete.)
-Check to see if suspension calibration needs to be performed. Front control arms should be between 3.1 and 4.1 degrees. Rear drive axles should be between negative 0.9 and negative 1.5 degrees. If in this range, and the front control arms are equal, you should not need to calibrate.
-Clear error codes.
While you are in there I recommmend you purchase from Shardul a set of UPD toe arms and install them. You'll thank me for it when you have to set the rear toe. You'll need a 28mm and 32mm open-end wrench to adjust toe. Remember you have to lower the rear of the stock exhaust to install and to loosen/tighten the UPD upper lock nut.
Replacement of multi-link suspension components is your call. Mine looked good with no signs of deterioration and performing the above eliminated the slack in the rear suspension. I will probably replace when I perform a suspension refresh at 180,000 to 190,000 miles. So far, at 140,000 miles, tire wear looks good. Yes, I like the car enough I'm planning on keeping it that long and longer.
- 2 each 222-352-08-65, Bushing, 25.83 each, $51.66 total. (this is the inner bushing)
- 2 each 003-990-34-12, Screw, 10.27 each, $20.54 total. (inner bushing bolt, triple-square, it's going to be rusted)
- 2 each 0000000-003276, Nut, 1.56 each, $3.12 total. (for inner bushing bolt)
-Parts cost $88.48 to include S&H.
-Bushing press/pull kit $119 from Amazon. Required to press/pull the inner bushings. "27-piece universal press & pull sleeve kit bush bearing removal insertion set".
-Triple-square bit required to remove inner bushing bolts.
Outer bushings are not replaceable; you have to replace the entire control arm. I bought from Parts Geek and they still weren't cheap:
-Removed and replaced rear control arms. $508.61 (if bolts won't pass through, just rotate the two halves of the control arm around the outer bushing until bolt holes line up). The press bushing in the hub may have a gap too small to pass the new outer bushing through, I used a miniature file to cut a small "ramp" or "angle" about 0.004" so I could get the new control arm outer bushing started. See photos here: https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ml#post7397023
You'll need a 1/2" drive 10mm allen-head bit (~$8) to remove the bolt from the outer bushing. To do that you have to remove/lift/shift the rear brake caliper which uses one-time use bolts. Disable SBC or be very, very careful to prevent activation of the SBC unit (e.g. open door, set parking brake, unlock/lock using key fob, etc).
-Rear bolts A211-423-00-71, two per caliper, cost is ~$3 per bolt; torque to 115 Nm (85 ft-lbs). You'll need a 12mm x 1.5mm tap (~$8) for these threads to remove the old microencapsulation compound from the hub before you install the new bolts.
-Rear Arnott air springs. Arnott A-2559. $604.58
For the rear air springs:
-Lift car.
-Use DAS to reduce air spring pressure to ~3 bar. Loosen air lines on T-block at rear of car. Use DAS to complete releasing air bag pressure to atmosphere.
-Replace rear air springs; do not tighten bolts.
-Tighten fittings on air suspension junction block. Note: do not over-torque! Literally inch-pounds.
-Use STAR to place ~0.5 Bar pressure in air springs.
-Use floor jack to raise control arm to ~-1.2 degrees drive axle angle (hub end higher than differential end); verify air bag is not sticking out sideways (like this < or >). Use DAS to inflate air bag to 2 Bar and verify air springs are straight. Torque lower air spring bolt to correct value. Lower the control arm to full extension of air spring. Inflate to 5 Bar. Verify air spring is straight. Repeat for other side.
-Lower car onto suspension, start car and let the air springs inflate to the programmed ride height using the compressor and reservoir. (I had an older battery in the car and tried this without starting the car. The battery could not support the procedure and the process shut down. Starting the car provided enough power to complete.)
-Check to see if suspension calibration needs to be performed. Front control arms should be between 3.1 and 4.1 degrees. Rear drive axles should be between negative 0.9 and negative 1.5 degrees. If in this range, and the front control arms are equal, you should not need to calibrate.
-Clear error codes.
While you are in there I recommmend you purchase from Shardul a set of UPD toe arms and install them. You'll thank me for it when you have to set the rear toe. You'll need a 28mm and 32mm open-end wrench to adjust toe. Remember you have to lower the rear of the stock exhaust to install and to loosen/tighten the UPD upper lock nut.
Replacement of multi-link suspension components is your call. Mine looked good with no signs of deterioration and performing the above eliminated the slack in the rear suspension. I will probably replace when I perform a suspension refresh at 180,000 to 190,000 miles. So far, at 140,000 miles, tire wear looks good. Yes, I like the car enough I'm planning on keeping it that long and longer.
Last edited by bbirdwell; 03-14-2018 at 01:23 PM.
03-14-2018, 04:29 PM
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Parts that I replaced:
- 2 each 222-352-08-65, Bushing, 25.83 each, $51.66 total. (this is the inner bushing)
- 2 each 003-990-34-12, Screw, 10.27 each, $20.54 total. (inner bushing bolt, triple-square, it's going to be rusted)
- 2 each 0000000-003276, Nut, 1.56 each, $3.12 total. (for inner bushing bolt)
-Parts cost $88.48 to include S&H.
-Bushing press/pull kit $119 from Amazon. Required to press/pull the inner bushings. "27-piece universal press & pull sleeve kit bush bearing removal insertion set".
-Triple-square bit required to remove inner bushing bolts.
Outer bushings are not replaceable; you have to replace the entire control arm. I bought from Parts Geek and they still weren't cheap:
-Removed and replaced rear control arms. $508.61 (if bolts won't pass through, just rotate the two halves of the control arm around the outer bushing until bolt holes line up). The press bushing in the hub may have a gap too small to pass the new outer bushing through, I used a miniature file to cut a small "ramp" or "angle" about 0.004" so I could get the new control arm outer bushing started. See photos here: https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ml#post7397023
You'll need a 1/2" drive 10mm allen-head bit (~$8) to remove the bolt from the outer bushing. To do that you have to remove/lift/shift the rear brake caliper which uses one-time use bolts. Disable SBC or be very, very careful to prevent activation of the SBC unit (e.g. open door, set parking brake, unlock/lock using key fob, etc).
-Rear bolts A211-423-00-71, two per caliper, cost is ~$3 per bolt; torque to 115 Nm (85 ft-lbs). You'll need a 12mm x 1.5mm tap (~$8) for these threads to remove the old microencapsulation compound from the hub before you install the new bolts.
-Rear Arnott air springs. Arnott A-2559. $604.58
For the rear air springs:
-Lift car.
-Use DAS to reduce air spring pressure to ~3 bar. Loosen air lines on T-block at rear of car. Use DAS to complete releasing air bag pressure to atmosphere.
-Replace rear air springs; do not tighten bolts.
-Tighten fittings on air suspension junction block. Note: do not over-torque! Literally inch-pounds.
-Use STAR to place ~0.5 Bar pressure in air springs.
-Use floor jack to raise control arm to ~-1.2 degrees drive axle angle (hub end higher than differential end); verify air bag is not sticking out sideways (like this < or >). Use DAS to inflate air bag to 2 Bar and verify air springs are straight. Torque lower air spring bolt to correct value. Lower the control arm to full extension of air spring. Inflate to 5 Bar. Verify air spring is straight. Repeat for other side.
-Lower car onto suspension, start car and let the air springs inflate to the programmed ride height using the compressor and reservoir. (I had an older battery in the car and tried this without starting the car. The battery could not support the procedure and the process shut down. Starting the car provided enough power to complete.)
-Check to see if suspension calibration needs to be performed. Front control arms should be between 3.1 and 4.1 degrees. Rear drive axles should be between negative 0.9 and negative 1.5 degrees. If in this range, and the front control arms are equal, you should not need to calibrate.
-Clear error codes.
While you are in there I recommmend you purchase from Shardul a set of UPD toe arms and install them. You'll thank me for it when you have to set the rear toe. You'll need a 28mm and 32mm open-end wrench to adjust toe. Remember you have to lower the rear of the stock exhaust to install and to loosen/tighten the UPD upper lock nut.
Replacement of multi-link suspension components is your call. Mine looked good with no signs of deterioration and performing the above eliminated the slack in the rear suspension. I will probably replace when I perform a suspension refresh at 180,000 to 190,000 miles. So far, at 140,000 miles, tire wear looks good. Yes, I like the car enough I'm planning on keeping it that long and longer.
- 2 each 222-352-08-65, Bushing, 25.83 each, $51.66 total. (this is the inner bushing)
- 2 each 003-990-34-12, Screw, 10.27 each, $20.54 total. (inner bushing bolt, triple-square, it's going to be rusted)
- 2 each 0000000-003276, Nut, 1.56 each, $3.12 total. (for inner bushing bolt)
-Parts cost $88.48 to include S&H.
-Bushing press/pull kit $119 from Amazon. Required to press/pull the inner bushings. "27-piece universal press & pull sleeve kit bush bearing removal insertion set".
-Triple-square bit required to remove inner bushing bolts.
Outer bushings are not replaceable; you have to replace the entire control arm. I bought from Parts Geek and they still weren't cheap:
-Removed and replaced rear control arms. $508.61 (if bolts won't pass through, just rotate the two halves of the control arm around the outer bushing until bolt holes line up). The press bushing in the hub may have a gap too small to pass the new outer bushing through, I used a miniature file to cut a small "ramp" or "angle" about 0.004" so I could get the new control arm outer bushing started. See photos here: https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ml#post7397023
You'll need a 1/2" drive 10mm allen-head bit (~$8) to remove the bolt from the outer bushing. To do that you have to remove/lift/shift the rear brake caliper which uses one-time use bolts. Disable SBC or be very, very careful to prevent activation of the SBC unit (e.g. open door, set parking brake, unlock/lock using key fob, etc).
-Rear bolts A211-423-00-71, two per caliper, cost is ~$3 per bolt; torque to 115 Nm (85 ft-lbs). You'll need a 12mm x 1.5mm tap (~$8) for these threads to remove the old microencapsulation compound from the hub before you install the new bolts.
-Rear Arnott air springs. Arnott A-2559. $604.58
For the rear air springs:
-Lift car.
-Use DAS to reduce air spring pressure to ~3 bar. Loosen air lines on T-block at rear of car. Use DAS to complete releasing air bag pressure to atmosphere.
-Replace rear air springs; do not tighten bolts.
-Tighten fittings on air suspension junction block. Note: do not over-torque! Literally inch-pounds.
-Use STAR to place ~0.5 Bar pressure in air springs.
-Use floor jack to raise control arm to ~-1.2 degrees drive axle angle (hub end higher than differential end); verify air bag is not sticking out sideways (like this < or >). Use DAS to inflate air bag to 2 Bar and verify air springs are straight. Torque lower air spring bolt to correct value. Lower the control arm to full extension of air spring. Inflate to 5 Bar. Verify air spring is straight. Repeat for other side.
-Lower car onto suspension, start car and let the air springs inflate to the programmed ride height using the compressor and reservoir. (I had an older battery in the car and tried this without starting the car. The battery could not support the procedure and the process shut down. Starting the car provided enough power to complete.)
-Check to see if suspension calibration needs to be performed. Front control arms should be between 3.1 and 4.1 degrees. Rear drive axles should be between negative 0.9 and negative 1.5 degrees. If in this range, and the front control arms are equal, you should not need to calibrate.
-Clear error codes.
While you are in there I recommmend you purchase from Shardul a set of UPD toe arms and install them. You'll thank me for it when you have to set the rear toe. You'll need a 28mm and 32mm open-end wrench to adjust toe. Remember you have to lower the rear of the stock exhaust to install and to loosen/tighten the UPD upper lock nut.
Replacement of multi-link suspension components is your call. Mine looked good with no signs of deterioration and performing the above eliminated the slack in the rear suspension. I will probably replace when I perform a suspension refresh at 180,000 to 190,000 miles. So far, at 140,000 miles, tire wear looks good. Yes, I like the car enough I'm planning on keeping it that long and longer.
For control arm replacement - is it enough to just disconnect the battery to keep the SBC from activating? What brand did you go with for control arms? Is there a confirmed OE supplier?
I just wore through a set of rear tires in 3 months after replacing the rear bags myself (Arnott) and then a ride height calibration and alignment at the dealer. I keep going from in spec toe-in to severely toed-out causing the tire wear. I used your setup from another thread to re-do the rear toe alignment and everything feels good and solid for a couple days before the rear end gets squirmy and visibly toes out again. I figure it's time to just do the full refresh now and redo the alignment. I'm going to check out the subframe bushings and mounts as well while I'm down there.
Any other tips or recommendations are welcome
03-14-2018, 09:47 PM
#4
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Republic of Texas
Posts: 3,222
Received 930 Likes
on
722 Posts
'99 and '05 E55 AMG
Where are you sourcing the bushings, screws, and nuts?
For control arm replacement - is it enough to just disconnect the battery to keep the SBC from activating? What brand did you go with for control arms? Is there a confirmed OE supplier?
I just wore through a set of rear tires in 3 months after replacing the rear bags myself (Arnott) and then a ride height calibration and alignment at the dealer. I keep going from in spec toe-in to severely toed-out causing the tire wear. I used your setup from another thread to re-do the rear toe alignment and everything feels good and solid for a couple days before the rear end gets squirmy and visibly toes out again. I figure it's time to just do the full refresh now and redo the alignment. I'm going to check out the subframe bushings and mounts as well while I'm down there.
Any other tips or recommendations are welcome
For control arm replacement - is it enough to just disconnect the battery to keep the SBC from activating? What brand did you go with for control arms? Is there a confirmed OE supplier?
I just wore through a set of rear tires in 3 months after replacing the rear bags myself (Arnott) and then a ride height calibration and alignment at the dealer. I keep going from in spec toe-in to severely toed-out causing the tire wear. I used your setup from another thread to re-do the rear toe alignment and everything feels good and solid for a couple days before the rear end gets squirmy and visibly toes out again. I figure it's time to just do the full refresh now and redo the alignment. I'm going to check out the subframe bushings and mounts as well while I'm down there.
Any other tips or recommendations are welcome
Bushings, nuts, bolts obtain from dealer or online OEM supplier. Toe arms from Shardul; the stock toe arms have a lot of hysteresis in them; I would spend an hour trying to get the stock ones in spec but the UPD toe arms take 5-10 minutes because they have significantly less hysteresis (only the slack in the threads versus the eccentric cams of the stock parts).
You can disconnect the SBC harness connector at the SBC pump under the hood. You will get error message on restart but should clear in a few starts. If you have access to STAR, it makes it very, very easy.
FWIW, I found my outside control arm bushings to be totally worn out when I pulled the control arms. I looked for replacement bushings but no joy. The inner bushing bolts are only 12mm so they do not take much torque. I'll look it up but if grade 8.8 only 65 ft-lbs; if grade 10 it would be 90 ft-lbs.
Control arms are on this page about 1/4 to 1/3 of the way down: https://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/20...ntrol_arm.html
Last edited by bbirdwell; 03-14-2018 at 10:07 PM.
03-16-2018, 02:49 PM
#6
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Republic of Texas
Posts: 3,222
Received 930 Likes
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722 Posts
'99 and '05 E55 AMG
Pull a search on "0000000-003276 nut" and you'll find several on eBay but one of the sellers is asking $12! You'll find it at mbpartshq.com for $2.03 each plus shipping.
You will find them listed as "nut, spring control arm to rear subframe" or "stabilizer link nut".
Last edited by bbirdwell; 03-16-2018 at 03:05 PM.
03-16-2018, 03:19 PM
#7
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I picked up the bolts and nuts at the dealer here in town. The nuts are locking flange nuts, grade 8.8, 12mm x 1.5mm pitch, one-time use only. If Grade 8.8, torque will be around 75-85 Nm or 56 to 63 ft-lbs with clean, dry threads. FWIW, I usually target the center of the torque range to account for torque wrench inaccuracy. Be sure to look at the head of the bolt to confirm it is grade 8.8; if grade 10.9 the torque will be significantly higher. (Edit: since these are locking nuts, let me see if I can find the book value for them.)
Pull a search on "0000000-003276 nut" and you'll find several on eBay but one of the sellers is asking $12! You'll find it at mbpartshq.com for $2.03 each plus shipping.
You will find them listed as "nut, spring control arm to rear subframe" or "stabilizer link nut".
Pull a search on "0000000-003276 nut" and you'll find several on eBay but one of the sellers is asking $12! You'll find it at mbpartshq.com for $2.03 each plus shipping.
You will find them listed as "nut, spring control arm to rear subframe" or "stabilizer link nut".
For what it's worth - the lowest prices I've found for everything was at OEMercedesbenzparts . com
