3M makes several professional products for headlight restoration of plastic (read: body shop, not walmart grade). The best one is the two part cleaner, one part sealer (3 part total). You can't tell the difference from new once you get done. I use a Snap-on sander/polisher with a an appropriate soft foam pad because I have tools, and usually buff it out with a wool pad, but you can do it by hand with the same result.

 

Or you could get a collision shop to this for you. I saw the CLK today and they still look good.

https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...eadlights.html

 

I've done mine twice in a year. Used Cerakote and thought it was failing (they do offer a lifetime warranty). I don't think it was. But i did it again and went nuts with different wet sanding grits and 2 steps of machine polish. I believe the remaining haze is on the inside. Of course it is.

Anyway I feel like ceramic coating is a good option to protect naked polycarbonate. Some of the PPF options are probably good, too.

Either way, doing nothing to protect is a waste of time so don't bother in that case. I also think clear coating is a waste of time.
​

 

When I did my headlights, I just replaced the lens covers, then had them wrapped in UV protected PPF. 4 years later they still look awesome as the day I installed them.

 

Your car looks amazing, can't wait to get mine repainted.

Our temporary rental house in Seattle has ruined our car's paint and the driveway has now destroyed the lower portion of the front bumper.

First thing I'm doing when we move outta here is find a great paint shop.

 

Also having my car fully detailed next week, with heavy compound buffing to remove swirl marks and light scratches.
As the car could use it, after this winter. And all this pollen doesn't help the issue, especially having a black car.

 

To those that have had the clear lenses installed which ones did you get on eBay?

There are a ton and I'm specifically looking for them to mention polycarbonate lenses even though I think most of them are generically putting that on.

It would be good if we had someone that knew who they bought them from and then we could get them from that same seller.

I've had stuff done from China and the quality has been crap so that's why I ask who's everyone going with for replacement lenses.

I'm half tempted to do sand and then 2k clear coat like I did my other headlights but for 50 bucks for lenses and just baking them it's way easier and less time consuming so I'd rather go that route I think I just don't want them to yellow....

Thanks,
-Nigel

 

My post has a link to my write up and parts purchased.

Here it is again.

https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...placement.html

I had my lenses professionally sanded and cleared and they went to **** a few months later (to **** being below my standard).

I've had my replaced lenses on since march in snow, high heat and a ton of rain and they are still perfect.

I'd recommend replacing them, the lenses I bought on Amazon were perfect.

 

I think ceramic coating may provide the best protection.

 

The only thing that ceramic coating does, is make them hydrophobic. Ceramic coating will not protect them from sand and road debris, such as stone chips.
Only PPF will do that. I installed new lens covers years ago, then had them wrapped in PPF. And they still look good today.
Whatever you decide to do, have them wrapped in PPF to protect them for years to come. As it doesn't make sense to go thru all this effort and expense and not to.

 

I was thinking UV. But yes good point on the PPF.
My theory is the stock lenses last a good while before they "oxidize." So if you procured a polycarbonate lens with inferior or no UV treatment, a good ceramic coating could help bridge the gap and get closer to stock levels of UV protection. But again your point on PPF is well taken.

 

Yes, your right some ceramic coatings do offer UV protection. But so just PPF, you just need to specify which brand, to ensure it has UV protection formulated in it.
Mine did, I also have the fog lights protected by PPF as well, as the lenses are actually glass and not plastic. And sense they are so low, are prone to a direct hit from road debris.

 

I was in the middle of replacing my Radiator/Tranny/A/C Unit as well as the Coolant/Heater Expansion Adaptor located under the windshield wipers by the firewall, so I already had the front bumper removed which makes it easy to remove the headlights. I unfortunately ordered the Misimoto (sp?) replacement lenses while ordering new bulbs(Phillips D2S Xenon) as well as high beams and yellow turn signals and I mistakenly went the more expensive (and PITA!) route by buying W211 Halogen Headlights and ended up taking the Headlight Cover Lenses off them by using a large cardboard box and propped up the Headlight one at a time and cut holes in the front for 2 hairdryers and let her rip. It takes about 20-30 mins to get the butyl rubber hot enough to then pry them apart from the headlight body.

I wanted to convert the new (cheaper- non xenon) ones to xenon but it would have required cutting it apart and transplanting the Xenon motor unit which “turns” each xenon headlamp as you steer. There would more to it than just that and I only considered doing this as a result of seeing just how exposed the wires were within my OEM Xenon’s. So I bought some liquid rubber and coated as well as possible all exposed wires within the OEM Xenon Headlights. As for the Misimoto (sp?) Lenses, they WERE NOT the correct size only smaller and, as such, simply would not sit within the pre shaped lense holders properly. So I simply pried open the retainer clips and properly cleaned each OEM Xenon lense and that alone made a huge difference! As I said, I also replaced the other Bulbs too. Once the rubber for the wires had dried, for the most part, I inspected and sure enough, when the liquid rubber dries, it recedes/shrinks thus I went at it again and coated the ends etc. more thoroughly.

Once that was done, it was time to install the new Headlight Covers from the cheaper Halogen set I bought ( mine were pock marked and way off color from clear ). I can’t emphasize enough how important it is to completely remove the previous butyl rubber as thoroughly as possible before applying the new. It’s not a pleasant experience to be sure! Further, you have to make sure the slot around the perimeter is completely filled with the stuff without so much that causes it to drip inside. So it’s good practice to first figure out how wide/thick a piece you need to use. Then you have to heat/stretch the Butyl Rubber (I used the Misimoto(sp?) very good stuff) You must use an Oven to initially heat it up then a hair dryer/heat gun to heat the stuff then stretch it out thin enough to insert in the slot and while drawing it out. You may get it hot enough and be able to draw it out all the way around without use of the Hair dryer, but is good to have one on hand just in case it does get too cold. Once the slot is filled up, make sure the rubber is still hot enough all around (I put the Headlight back in the Box and turned on the Hairdryers for about 10 minutes or so, headlights facing up) then you insert the new Cover and press it in. If it’s to cold, the lense obviously won’t press in! If things go smoothly, you should have excess Butyl Rubber oozing outwards whereupon you use rubber gloves and pinch the excess to form a tight waterproof seal around the outside perimeter of each Headlight Cover.

I then topped off the Headlight Cover Lenses with Lamin-X Precut Protective Film which already has paid for itself after I incurred an incident of Road Rage resulting my being forced into those Lane Separator Pylons that pummeled my passenger side! It also made a mess of the whole side of my car as well as dinged my newly refurbished wheels, slightly dented the hood and ripped a 3/4” long tear in my rear bumper! Yikes!

 

Not trying to steal the thread, but looking for help.

I have an 06 E55 that I finally got tired of looking at ugly yellow lenses. I bought EvoX-r 2.0 from TRS a couple of years ago and just now am getting to do the replacement.
The process seemed pretty straight forward to me, until I had to take apart the projector assembly. While it was a bit challenging, it is nothing in comparison to what I am dealing with now.
When I removed lenses and started to remove the projector assembly, I've noticed that insulation around wires just started to flake off. What a nightmare!!! Wouldn't wish that on anyone! See below:

The more I've tried to remedy the problem, the worse it got, as any movement of the wires created more flakes of insulation falling of the wires.

This is where I am right now, as I'm trying to figure a best way to fix this problem while the car is just sitting without a front end.

I'm open to suggestions, ideas. Please shine some light.

Also, I haven't gotten to the installation of the EvoX-r 2.0 projectors. If you have used that model, is it plug and play (as TRS claims) or do I need some additional harness to make it work (as some members are saying).

If you've used a different protector unit, how significant was the difference in light output between the OEM projector and the replacement?

Thank you in advance!

 

Can you find some type of liquid rubber, that you could apply with a tiny paint brush to cover the bare wires.

 

Yeah some liquid Plastidip will be good here. Word of v caution is the more wires you move and more you move them more breaks will occur.

laat year I was looking to replace my 05 projectors with Morimoto EVOs and the wires were falling apart badly. I was going to rewire the both units completely. Ending up only rewiring one while the other was a whole new light and disassembled to swap the projector.

 

Thank you for the advice. I pray that I can somehow remedy the wires, because, as you've said, any kind of movement creates more flakes.

 

This is what I use: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Star-Bri...104N/206513456