karpetcm

After installing my Superflow IC pump I was amazed how it woke the car up and I haven't been any higher then 25 above ambient, most of the times being 12-15 above. Only future mods I will do, atleast in the immediate future is 80mm clutched pulley. Mid Lengths or Long Tubes will either not be done or long ways down the road due to not going through the hassle of finding someone to pass smog. I've been there several times don't that and its a pain.

Here is my concern with the KC vs just doing a 3g trunk tank. I've read that when temps get warm and I live in cali the A/C unit not working at full potential is going to be an issue for me. Just wondering from all the people who have installed the KC unit is it a common problem? is it a matter of just dumping more Freon into the system to compensate for the KC unit install. Not sure just wanted to see what people have experienced with them. I know it works and is the best route too get those intake temps down reading all the threads. Just not 100% on how the A/C unit will work and can it keep up with 90+ degree weather and at times 100+.

If I don't go with a KC and go with a trunk tank instead wont it be better to do the DTK front mount that has the pressure cap and more volume and as I drive air passes through?

Davednconfused

Those things are not mutually exclusive. Start with the new heat exchanger. If that's not enough, do research and consider what next steps to take. A tank is required for a Killer Chiller, so if you want to take a step further after the new H/E, you'll need the tank regardless.

Don't go anywhere near that DTK heat exchanger. It requires lots of cutting and removing things to fit, it's also very poorly welded. Go with a PLM, Eurocharged, or if you feel inclined to give the little rat your business, VRP.

karpetcm

Hi Davedconfused, Thanks for the info, so either way if I run a KC I still need to have a trunk tank regardless because a KC system has to work together with a trunk tank?

Davednconfused

Yes - your AC turns off at WOT so without a tank that renders the KC system virtually useless. Generally, it requires a smaller volume than a traditional non-KC setup would utilize - in my case I use a 5 gallon trunk tank. However, with a KC, I often see 3 gallon under hood tanks.

I considered a KC but decided against it, here are my reasons:
- AC ALWAYS need to be running.
- Questionable longterm reliability (and AC components are expensive if they fail).
- Again, AC turns off at WOT, so once you're in it you're relying solely on that cold tank water as the KC does not utilize a heat exchanger.

Of course, my reasons are mine alone. I'd recommend that you do research and go from there.

I should have also mentioned that once you go KC, you will need to remove that heat exchanger. It is not utilized in the system. So it'll just be a tank and a KC.

karpetcm

Ok ill go with your advice basically where I need to go first to is a good front mount H/E and if I need more do a 3-5 gallon trunk tank. Based on what you said about KC I really don't want the hassle since its a daily driver and pass on it. I'm not going crazy with the pulley size at all and a good front mount with a trunk tank should do me good then. Is the PLM or VRP just a replacement for your stock unit ?. I wanted to add a secondary one to the stock unit and from there decide wether I should go trunk tank or not based on how IAT's are.

Davednconfused

The PLM is the most direct fit. It isn't 100% a stock replace, as the stock H/E snaps in to plastic brackets. However, it has a mounting point for the oil cooler, which all other aftermarket H/Es lack. If you find that you still aren't happy with your IATs, VRP also sells a true secondary I believe, which mounts in the upper area in front of your radiator.

karpetcm

2nd Heat Exchanger just purchased. So ill take it get it installed and see what happens. With a 80mm pulley I should be fine. I'm only looking to be about 450-460 RWHP and about 500 RWTQ. I think for a daily driver and as old as the car is as long as it's maintained well it should be fine.

Davednconfused

I'd recommend just getting headers instead of sizing down the pulley. Yes it's cheaper to do the pulley, but headers will grant you the same power if not more, and remove a major bottleneck in the system (stock manifolds suck).

karpetcm

I wish I can do headers, problem with doing it is when it comes time to smog its a major hassle. I've been through it so many times that I eventually got tired of it. I've done LT's on 7 Camaro's I've owned, E46 M3 and Z06 and let me tell you in cali to find a shop to pass is a pain, there out there but a pain, if they look under your hood and see you got headers there attitude changes even with cats and you can easily pass smog you will fail visual. Even if you do they charge you a decent amount which is fine but next year when you go back they pretend don't know you at all or you get pulled over by a cop, your basically screwed. I've just been lucky, knock on wood with the cops.

Davednconfused

Oh yeah didn't see you're in Cali, that sucks. Their smog laws are ridiculous. I've been running around fully catless with no inspection for basically two years straight here in PA.

karpetcm

lucky you, here in cali sure there are plenty of people running headers, catless and so on. What most never hear is the headaches of getting smogged and dealing with the cops. I can do shorties and high flow cats and so on and anything other then stock is better but still visual you wont pass and all that money just to go to shorties, not worth the headache. The joy of living in Cali, lol.

BC928

Underbelly pans and some copper looking heat shields up top should be good in this very tight engine compartment, but we shall see.

On the KC, it seems that you could do heat exchangers and the KC tank so the post-intercooler water goes into the heat exchangers THEN the KC/tank, then back into the IC.