Drivers Side Upper Lumbar Code/(leaking)
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Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 329
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From: Virginia, USA
2005 c230
Drivers Side Upper Lumbar Code/(leaking)
2006 E55. 96k Miles. Dynamic seat option. Noticed that when driving will randomly feel the lumbar inflate on my drivers seat. (the deflation occurs gradually so I never notice it actually deflating.) And no, the Pulse feature is not turned on. My Autel scanner found a stored code (dont have it in front of me) but it states that the drivers side seat upper lumbar is leaking.
I also have a separate issue (which, based on reading, seems common?) where my auto close trunk wont close all the way when I press the red trunk close button on the lid. 90% of the time now it will begin to close, reach maybe halfway, then go back to open position. (As if something is blocking the lid from going down..but I've confirmed, nothing is blocking. If I repress the close button 3-5 times, it will usually then close. Alternatively, if I reach up and re-squeeze the manual open trunk lid lever above the license plate, I can briefly hear the vaccum motor whir, then if I touch the red trunk close button, usually the lid will then fully close. (but not 100% always).
My specific questions: Since the seat and the trunk lid use the same vaccum pump/system, is the fact that the drivers side lumbar is leaking, also causing the trunk close issue? Also, has anyone here replaced the lumbar bladder on a W211 E class? Not finding any writeups/youtube vids that are specific to the W211 Dynamic seats.
I also have a separate issue (which, based on reading, seems common?) where my auto close trunk wont close all the way when I press the red trunk close button on the lid. 90% of the time now it will begin to close, reach maybe halfway, then go back to open position. (As if something is blocking the lid from going down..but I've confirmed, nothing is blocking. If I repress the close button 3-5 times, it will usually then close. Alternatively, if I reach up and re-squeeze the manual open trunk lid lever above the license plate, I can briefly hear the vaccum motor whir, then if I touch the red trunk close button, usually the lid will then fully close. (but not 100% always).
My specific questions: Since the seat and the trunk lid use the same vaccum pump/system, is the fact that the drivers side lumbar is leaking, also causing the trunk close issue? Also, has anyone here replaced the lumbar bladder on a W211 E class? Not finding any writeups/youtube vids that are specific to the W211 Dynamic seats.
Member
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 183
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From: NY
2005 E55 AMG, 2017 E400 Wagon, 2018 C350e hybrid
I believe some people have had luck repairing leaking seat bladders and some people have also made replacements from other objects (but I cannot recall what). Might be worth doing some searching though. Sometimes you can slip the bladders out without completely disassembling the backrest, but I'm not sure if this is the case with w211s or not. Hopefully someone else can chime in.
As for the trunk lid, it's not related. The trunk lid does not use vacuum or air pressure to operate (you're thinking of the w220 S-Class, which has a pneumatic trunk latch). The latches and actuator are all electric on the w211 (I'm assuming it's a sedan... if you have a wagon, the actuator is hydraulic).
As for the trunk lid, remove the panel on the left side of the trunk and inspect the linkage to the position sensor (a small sensor connected to the mechanism with a small plastic linkage, next to the main closing motor). Sometimes the linkage gets detached from the position sensor and causes this type of problem (it stops half way because it doesn't see any change in position so it knows something isn't right). If you have access to an SDS or high level scan tool, check for fault codes--they should point you in the right direction. You can also check the actual values for the position sensor to make sure it's working correctly (easier than removing the panel, if you have an SDS).
As for the trunk lid, it's not related. The trunk lid does not use vacuum or air pressure to operate (you're thinking of the w220 S-Class, which has a pneumatic trunk latch). The latches and actuator are all electric on the w211 (I'm assuming it's a sedan... if you have a wagon, the actuator is hydraulic).
As for the trunk lid, remove the panel on the left side of the trunk and inspect the linkage to the position sensor (a small sensor connected to the mechanism with a small plastic linkage, next to the main closing motor). Sometimes the linkage gets detached from the position sensor and causes this type of problem (it stops half way because it doesn't see any change in position so it knows something isn't right). If you have access to an SDS or high level scan tool, check for fault codes--they should point you in the right direction. You can also check the actual values for the position sensor to make sure it's working correctly (easier than removing the panel, if you have an SDS).
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 329
Likes: 28
From: Virginia, USA
2005 c230
very helpful response. Thanks! Yes, in my searching appears I referenced some S class trunk operations that dont apply to the E class. Will followup on the suggested troubleshooting for my E class. And yes, I did search (and search) and saw several articles on how to repair the side bolster bladders, but nothing very definitive on how to get to the lumbar bladder, which seems to be deeper inside the seat than the side bolster bladders?
Either way, I'll continue searching more, and dig into the seat in a couple of weekends.
Either way, I'll continue searching more, and dig into the seat in a couple of weekends.
Last edited by lseguy; Aug 14, 2018 at 04:17 PM.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2017
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From: N.Y. L.I.
04 E55 AMG BLK/BLK(MyDD), 06 CLK 500 (wife's) 07 ML500, 2012 C300(son's)
Looks like it's been covered.....
https://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w...-run-down.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w...-run-down.html
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Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 27
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e55 AMG
Hey, I recently just repaired my passenger side lumbar support. Its not hard to get to, just pull of the seat back and remove the module with all of the colored hoses connecting to it (it just slides up). Then slide out the bladder be careful not to damage it anymore. I repaired mine by melting it together with a soldering iron like some suggested but the repair seemed fragile so once that was done, I went and got some gorilla duct tape and taped the edges, then basically cocooned the bladder in the duct tape to make sure it does not rip again or expand too much and pop. I know it seems a little cheap, but it works great and strengthens the bladder as well as sealing it. Also, I went ahead and cut the colored airline attaching to the bag in the middle and used a 1/4" poly tube push connector (available at lowes) to rejoin the line so you don't have to worry about breaking or re-melting the line onto the plastic barb of the module. PM me if you need any other pointers.
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Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 329
Likes: 28
From: Virginia, USA
2005 c230
Hey, I recently just repaired my passenger side lumbar support. Its not hard to get to, just pull of the seat back and remove the module with all of the colored hoses connecting to it (it just slides up). Then slide out the bladder be careful not to damage it anymore. I repaired mine by melting it together with a soldering iron like some suggested but the repair seemed fragile so once that was done, I went and got some gorilla duct tape and taped the edges, then basically cocooned the bladder in the duct tape to make sure it does not rip again or expand too much and pop. I know it seems a little cheap, but it works great and strengthens the bladder as well as sealing it. Also, I went ahead and cut the colored airline attaching to the bag in the middle and used a 1/4" poly tube push connector (available at lowes) to rejoin the line so you don't have to worry about breaking or re-melting the line onto the plastic barb of the module. PM me if you need any other pointers.
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Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 329
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From: Virginia, USA
2005 c230
Took some time but figured it out! Clipping off two little black zip ties allowed me to slowly and carefully pull the lumbar bladder ( and of course it’s felt and mesh covering) towards the left/drivers side of the seat and slowly wiggle and squeeze it out. Was even able to leave all airlines intact so that I did not risk breaking off any of the plastic nipples.
it looks like for some reason the thin mesh covering between the upper lumbar bladder and the backside of the seat itself wore through at a small point causing a cross shaped small crack in the bladder. Appears may be that small area of the vinyl bladder was actually just touching the rough black part of the seat causing a friction wear/crack. Now to find best way to repair. I’ll also insert another piece of cloth between bladder and seat when I reinstall
Last edited by lseguy; Oct 3, 2018 at 06:29 PM.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 329
Likes: 28
From: Virginia, USA
2005 c230
so a quick test with a piece of duct tape allowed the upper bladder to now fully fill with air and remain filled for over an hour+. Zero leakage. Also noticed that no matter how long you press the "-" on the seat control, neither of the two lumbar bladders FULLY deflate 100%. Which means A)explains why I had to struggle a bit excessively to get the bladders from out of the seat, as the lower/non leaking bladder was still about 25% full of air and B)There appears to be no way to fully deflate the bladders without unplugging the ends of the airhoses for each bladders, from the control unit. Was hoping to avoid that but seems necessary. They are on there extremely tight so will need to see how I can carefully as possible unplug without breaking the plastic nipples they attach to
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 329
Likes: 28
From: Virginia, USA
2005 c230
Another tip: as another poster suggested, best to cut the airline (for whichever bladder you are repairing or replacing) in the middle and getting an adapter to reconnect at that point. I found it impossible to remove the hose ends from the plastic nipples without slicing the hose ends. If I did it over I’d cut the hose in the middle then reattach with an adapter. Eliminates risk of breaking the plastic nipples on the distribution block
Last edited by lseguy; Oct 6, 2018 at 07:35 AM.
