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why didn't you order from mercedes? every time i've ordered these they came as a set with the plug gaskets from what i remember. they need to be replaced at the same time ALWAYS.
i ordered from Mercedes and they didn’t come with mine? Did you order them sepretley?
Any other opinions on whether replacing plug seals is a must?
why didn't you order from mercedes? every time i've ordered these they came as a set with the plug gaskets from what i remember. they need to be replaced at the same time ALWAYS.
1. My ignorance of the process as this car is new to me 2. Cheaper than dealership 3. FCP lifetime warranty replacement
I called my dealership today for a quote on the plug rings and they wanted $9 per ring....absurd! Especially when the “kit” is $40 each side. Advanced Auto parts has some for about $3.50 each.
1. My ignorance of the process as this car is new to me 2. Cheaper than dealership 3. FCP lifetime warranty replacement
I called my dealership today for a quote on the plug rings and they wanted $9 per ring....absurd! Especially when the “kit” is $40 each side. Advanced Auto parts has some for about $3.50 each.
I'm also new to this car. $9 is craziness. Ill go grab some from AAP. Thanks for the heads up!
Now I'm in the mental debate whether not I should do the plugs or not. I started to get a very slight tremble from the engine lately at idle in park. RPM needle is steady as can be. Don't notice it driving. I thought that the leaky gasket may have a role in that or possibly oil is getting in the plugs?
I'm also new to this car. $9 is craziness. Ill go grab some from AAP. Thanks for the heads up!
Now I'm in the mental debate whether not I should do the plugs or not. I started to get a very slight tremble from the engine lately at idle in park. RPM needle is steady as can be. Don't notice it driving. I thought that the leaky gasket may have a role in that or possibly oil is getting in the plugs?
I couldn't tell you about the idle and if this attributes to it; I had my plugs changed two months ago (maybe 30k since last done), very slight oil on them, but no idle issues.
1. My ignorance of the process as this car is new to me 2. Cheaper than dealership 3. FCP lifetime warranty replacement
I called my dealership today for a quote on the plug rings and they wanted $9 per ring....absurd! Especially when the “kit” is $40 each side. Advanced Auto parts has some for about $3.50 each.
how did you find the seals for $3.50? Do you have a link or part number? I only see the $9 OE rings on advanced auto. Thanks!
My plug rings were still in good shape while the gasket was pretty much melted out. You will need to seal the gasket, at least at the 4 corners.
This must be why I still have a leak at the top passenger side cover. What are the points that need sealer? In the channel itself with the gasket or on the outer round part? Can someone illustrate the points?
This must be why I still have a leak at the top passenger side cover. What are the points that need sealer? In the channel itself with the gasket or on the outer round part? Can someone illustrate the points?
The first time replaced the valve cover, I used no sealer, it leaked bad after a few days, especially at the passenger top. The second time I put some sealer in the channel and tried to tighten the bolt this corner first. It worked for a few months. I think I still have a tiny leak at this corner. I checked it almost everyday and only see very small leak once a while. This is the plastic valve cover, I have no problem with the original valve cover. I don't know if I bought a bad plastic valve cover. Let me know if you have a solution.
This must be why I still have a leak at the top passenger side cover. What are the points that need sealer? In the channel itself with the gasket or on the outer round part? Can someone illustrate the points?
I used on the corners where there are dips. That seemed to be a problem areas. Also at the corner where the cam lobe is. I will update if I see any leaks. I just did the gaskets and plugs on Sat.
Originally Posted by anomadtoo
thanks for the heads up; I haven’t opened it up yet. Are they too large? They looked too large in circumference when I picked them up.
Yeah, too large. Mine were still soft and in good shape as Dustin also said so I reused them. I put a small bit of seal on them as an extra step. Not ideal but I couldn't get the parts on Sat. Next time I will prob just get the after market kit that includes them.
I used on the corners where there are dips. That seemed to be a problem areas. Also at the corner where the cam lobe is. I will update if I see any leaks. I just did the gaskets and plugs on Sat.
So you used on the corners outside the channel? I am going to redo mine, for the 3rd time. Anyone who plan to redo it, be careful with the bolts that come with the plastic valve cover, they are not as strong as the original ones. I had to reuse the old bolts, I got 3 broken head for the new bolts already.
Last edited by dustinN; 02-04-2019 at 12:23 PM.
Reason: error
as you cross tightening your bolts in multiple passes?
Yes, I tried not to over-tighten the bolts but some how I still broke the headers so I had to re-open the valve cover and got hard time to remove the broken bolt that stuck in the valve cover.
that's a shame...do you know if you've bottomed out the valve cover? there is a metal sleeve that will bottom out letting you know to stop tightening. i'm almost certain that the rubber gasket crush wouldn't cause enough tension to stretch a bolt.
Yes I have bottomed out the valve cover. The gasket that comes with the plastic valve cover is small and thin. There is no gap between the top and bottom valve cover. If there is, it's just a very tiny gap. Not like the original ones.
ya...from what i recall my mechanic said...only a few turns before he bottomed out the plastic cover. not like the original metal one. he said he stopped because he didn't want to snap the valve cover like the previous dealer did to my metal one. he did mention for me to keep an eye on it because it was tightened VERY lightly which bottomed out the gasket. so light that he couldn't even meet the torque spec.
If you notice, the newer bolt part number is from 2010 and newer. This matches the change to plastic covers. I guess my local dealer and genuine included those since I ordered updated covers and they would be required while including my VIN number?
Can you please show me how to get the part number for gasket and bolts? The diagram shows #250 and #280/285 ??? Of course for the plastic valve cover. The gasket for the original aluminum valve cover looks big for the plastic vc. After all, my car still has the leak! Thanks.
Last edited by dustinN; 02-21-2019 at 09:12 AM.
Reason: Additional information.
Just in case if anyone needs, here is the collar screw for that plastic valve cover. The original screw for the aluminum valve cover is stronger but it doesn't have the protection collar.
for those of you who were curious here is a picture of the bolt required for the updated valve covers. the new valve covers are not threaded so upon first installation these screws will self tap new threads. just he sure you are correctly aligned. they should self center as you do have a hole but just take your time to ensure you're straight.
A very HUGE thanks to you two folks. hachiroku and dustinN have both saved me the aggravation of locating those elusive ignition coil pack screw part numbers that are required for the replacement plastic valve cover assembly. Many thanks indeed. At 191K miles, those metal alloy covers started to leak from the passenger side. Yet, upon applying torque to the driver's side on replacing the gasket, a hairline fracture propagated itself which made all loads of fun!
01-21-2019, 06:47 PM
