E55 amg very jerky and not nice to drive
01-20-2019, 09:58 AM
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E55 amg w211
E55 amg very jerky and not nice to drive
iv owner my e55 amp for about 3 months now. Had my fair share of problems with it which Iv sorted.
but the car is not nice to drive at all. Gear changes are really sluggish and jerky. Going from 2nd to 3rd. The car feels like Iv let of the gas for a split second once in 3rd. Or sometimes feels like Iv applied more gas and jerks toward. Even worse from 1st -2nd. 3rd-4th and 4th-5th seem fine.
sometimes with light throttle response the car feels like it missifires really bad. But I think this may be down to the tune. Running a 74mm fixed pulley. Spoke to race iq you said they can send me over a different tune.
Also I can be at a junction. Go to pull away slowly and literally the car lurches forward very aggressively nearly snapping my neck and the passengers for about 10feet. And I sort of kangoro down the road for abit like I’m pumping the throttle. It feels like a trans issue to me.
Anyone else had similar probs.
but the car is not nice to drive at all. Gear changes are really sluggish and jerky. Going from 2nd to 3rd. The car feels like Iv let of the gas for a split second once in 3rd. Or sometimes feels like Iv applied more gas and jerks toward. Even worse from 1st -2nd. 3rd-4th and 4th-5th seem fine.
sometimes with light throttle response the car feels like it missifires really bad. But I think this may be down to the tune. Running a 74mm fixed pulley. Spoke to race iq you said they can send me over a different tune.
Also I can be at a junction. Go to pull away slowly and literally the car lurches forward very aggressively nearly snapping my neck and the passengers for about 10feet. And I sort of kangoro down the road for abit like I’m pumping the throttle. It feels like a trans issue to me.
Anyone else had similar probs.
01-20-2019, 07:09 PM
#2
MBWorld Fanatic!
I think everyone has had jerking issues with these cars but not quite as bad as you are describing. I get issues from 1st-2nd which I believe it is probably something to do with loss of traction. Might be why it doesn't happen with the higher gears. It won't affect you but pulley engagement most likely adds even more issues.
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maw1124 (02-03-2021)
01-20-2019, 09:54 PM
#4
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Read codes in ECU and TCU, and check atf level properly before doing anything else. You have a resistor for supercharger clutch installed or is it still plugged in? Also something to try that's easy.
01-21-2019, 08:01 AM
#5
Member
Please list all of your (non cosmetic) mods, if you don't mind. You are not the only one with the shifting issue and the other issues may be related as well. Alex from legitstreetcars (youtube) believes that its caused by an oversize throttle body. I believe he had some luck disconnecting the battery cable then driving aggressively while shift adaptations were being relearned. I have a similar issue (power cut after shifting) that started after doing a lot of mods all at once (including an 82mm throttle body). I have tried the adaptations trick and found that it only helped a little and soon came back just as bad. The issue is not related to one tuner. Jerry has tried a lot of things for me with no help and I believe Tony was working on Alex's car with no results either. Have you tried anything to resolve it (just to help rule things out)? Can you check and see how much timing retard you have on shifts? For me, the issue is caused by severe timing retard. The question is what is causing the ME to retard timing so much...
01-21-2019, 05:14 PM
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E55 amg w211
The car has a 74mm fixed pulley, mid length headers, race cats, x pipe, and a tune. Throttle body is standard.
i do have the resistor in the supercharger magnet plug.
you described it perfectly. Severe power cuts after shift. Also very jerky shifts sometimes. Only on light throttle though. If wot it shifts ok.
Iv ordered a new conductor plate, filter, fuchs 4134 atf and a sonnox master control sleeve overlap kit. So going to try that and see if it shifts better.
i do have the resistor in the supercharger magnet plug.
you described it perfectly. Severe power cuts after shift. Also very jerky shifts sometimes. Only on light throttle though. If wot it shifts ok.
Iv ordered a new conductor plate, filter, fuchs 4134 atf and a sonnox master control sleeve overlap kit. So going to try that and see if it shifts better.
Last edited by Pd9264; 01-21-2019 at 05:16 PM.
01-21-2019, 06:08 PM
#7
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The car has a 74mm fixed pulley, mid length headers, race cats, x pipe, and a tune. Throttle body is standard.
i do have the resistor in the supercharger magnet plug.
you described it perfectly. Severe power cuts after shift. Also very jerky shifts sometimes. Only on light throttle though. If wot it shifts ok.
Iv ordered a new conductor plate, filter, fuchs 4134 atf and a sonnox master control sleeve overlap kit. So going to try that and see if it shifts better.
i do have the resistor in the supercharger magnet plug.
you described it perfectly. Severe power cuts after shift. Also very jerky shifts sometimes. Only on light throttle though. If wot it shifts ok.
Iv ordered a new conductor plate, filter, fuchs 4134 atf and a sonnox master control sleeve overlap kit. So going to try that and see if it shifts better.
Did you buy the car like this or did it start at some point? Did it start when you added one of those mods or re-tuned? Do you have a TCU tune? Do you know of anything else that happened around the time it started (maintenance, mods, weather change, battery disconnected, etc)?
We're definitely talking about the same thing. Abrupt power cut immediately after the shift, particularly on the 2-3 shift, but usually also bad on the 1-2 shift. Sometimes I feel it a bit on 3-4, but often 3-4 feels fine. Shifts under heavy acceleration are normal. If you log timing with an OBD scanner or app like torque, I bet you will see your ignition timing cut from something like -20 degrees (advanced) to sometime like -5 degrees or even something positive for a fraction of a second after every shift. The problem is: there is normally a timing cut when shifting at low load, to make the shift smoother, so the question is: how much is normal and how much is too much (I've never logged it on an E55 without this problem).
I have had some luck in the past by flashing back the factory tune (using a dealership SDS and "updating" the ME software), however, I cannot really drive the car much with the factory tune (too many mods for that to be safe). It seems that if I disconnect and reconnect the battery after flashing back to the factory tune, it is fixed immediately, but if I flash it and don't disconnect the battery, it still has the problem initially but disappears after driving a few miles. Once I re-tune it with the aftermarket file, it seems to start almost immediately, but definitely gets worse after driving a few miles. I think that some combination of tune and modification is causing a problem with the adaptive shifting. Once the adaptations re-learn with the stock tune, it's ok, but once they learn with the aftermarket tune, the problem is back. Re-setting the adaptive shifting ("sneeky reset" or disconnecting the battery cable) does seem to have some affect for a short period, but it doesn't fix the problem.
Please update the thread once you do the transmission work and let us know if it makes any difference. I did replace my conductor plate and TCC solenoid due to a different issue (and I know my fluid is OEM and reasonably new), but this didn't make any difference in my issue. I did not perform any valve body mods, however. I have also tried swapping between my TCU (with a Eurocharged tune) and a different TCU with a stock tune. There is initially a difference, but the problem does return.
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01-21-2019, 08:14 PM
#8
Are you 100% sure the throttle body is OEM (ie. the previous owner didn't swap it or anything?)? Everyone else I've found with this problem has an 82mm throttle body (and it started after adding the TB), so if you don't, that's definitely good to know.
Did you buy the car like this or did it start at some point? Did it start when you added one of those mods or re-tuned? Do you have a TCU tune? Do you know of anything else that happened around the time it started (maintenance, mods, weather change, battery disconnected, etc)?
We're definitely talking about the same thing. Abrupt power cut immediately after the shift, particularly on the 2-3 shift, but usually also bad on the 1-2 shift. Sometimes I feel it a bit on 3-4, but often 3-4 feels fine. Shifts under heavy acceleration are normal. If you log timing with an OBD scanner or app like torque, I bet you will see your ignition timing cut from something like -20 degrees (advanced) to sometime like -5 degrees or even something positive for a fraction of a second after every shift. The problem is: there is normally a timing cut when shifting at low load, to make the shift smoother, so the question is: how much is normal and how much is too much (I've never logged it on an E55 without this problem).
I have had some luck in the past by flashing back the factory tune (using a dealership SDS and "updating" the ME software), however, I cannot really drive the car much with the factory tune (too many mods for that to be safe). It seems that if I disconnect and reconnect the battery after flashing back to the factory tune, it is fixedimmediately, but if I flash it and don't disconnect the battery, it still has the problem initially but disappears after driving a few miles. Once I re-tune it with the aftermarket file, it seems to start almost immediately, but definitely gets worse after driving a few miles. I think that some combination of tune and modification is causing a problem with the adaptive shifting. Once the adaptations re-learn with the stock tune, it's ok, but once they learn with the aftermarket tune, the problem is back. Re-setting the adaptive shifting ("sneeky reset" or disconnecting the battery cable) does seem to have some affect for a short period, but it doesn't fix the problem.
Please update the thread once you do the transmission work and let us know if it makes any difference. I did replace my conductor plate and TCC solenoid due to a different issue (and I know my fluid is OEM and reasonably new), but this didn't make any difference in my issue. I did not perform any valve body mods, however. I have also tried swapping between my TCU (with a Eurocharged tune) and a different TCU with a stock tune. There is initially a difference, but the problem does return.
Did you buy the car like this or did it start at some point? Did it start when you added one of those mods or re-tuned? Do you have a TCU tune? Do you know of anything else that happened around the time it started (maintenance, mods, weather change, battery disconnected, etc)?
We're definitely talking about the same thing. Abrupt power cut immediately after the shift, particularly on the 2-3 shift, but usually also bad on the 1-2 shift. Sometimes I feel it a bit on 3-4, but often 3-4 feels fine. Shifts under heavy acceleration are normal. If you log timing with an OBD scanner or app like torque, I bet you will see your ignition timing cut from something like -20 degrees (advanced) to sometime like -5 degrees or even something positive for a fraction of a second after every shift. The problem is: there is normally a timing cut when shifting at low load, to make the shift smoother, so the question is: how much is normal and how much is too much (I've never logged it on an E55 without this problem).
I have had some luck in the past by flashing back the factory tune (using a dealership SDS and "updating" the ME software), however, I cannot really drive the car much with the factory tune (too many mods for that to be safe). It seems that if I disconnect and reconnect the battery after flashing back to the factory tune, it is fixedimmediately, but if I flash it and don't disconnect the battery, it still has the problem initially but disappears after driving a few miles. Once I re-tune it with the aftermarket file, it seems to start almost immediately, but definitely gets worse after driving a few miles. I think that some combination of tune and modification is causing a problem with the adaptive shifting. Once the adaptations re-learn with the stock tune, it's ok, but once they learn with the aftermarket tune, the problem is back. Re-setting the adaptive shifting ("sneeky reset" or disconnecting the battery cable) does seem to have some affect for a short period, but it doesn't fix the problem.
Please update the thread once you do the transmission work and let us know if it makes any difference. I did replace my conductor plate and TCC solenoid due to a different issue (and I know my fluid is OEM and reasonably new), but this didn't make any difference in my issue. I did not perform any valve body mods, however. I have also tried swapping between my TCU (with a Eurocharged tune) and a different TCU with a stock tune. There is initially a difference, but the problem does return.
I also have this harsh engagement/power cutting out on occasion. 168/84 combo, 550 injectors, I can log with Torque pro but not sure what I'm looking for if you can help. Also the reset seems to have helped but I haven't driven the car long enough to see if the issue with return. The harsh engagement seems to happen around 1800 rpm if I'm accelerating gently, almost as if there's a quick stab of the throttle. I've learned to drive around the issue mostly by either being very gentle on the throttle or slightly more aggressive to drive through it if that makes sense. The power cutting off seems to happen in M mode, 2nd gear( l think) and trying to hold a steady rpm around 2500. The rpms drop for a quick second and car bucks. Finally, the gap on my newest addition, the UPD upper pulley is almost .9 without shims.
01-22-2019, 02:19 PM
#9
MBWorld Fanatic!
Guys... Have any of you monitored when the supercharger bypass is open?
This is the second throttle body seen when the throttle body is removed.
I have cleaned the electrical connector for it + scrubbed the ick from the throttle body several times which has solved strange drivability as described above.
The electrical connector for the bypass throttle body gets soaked with oil via crankcase vapors. Happens with nice CCV hoses.
In my E-55 I experienced strange shifting that was the torque converter locking up for a lurching shift.
This is the second throttle body seen when the throttle body is removed.
I have cleaned the electrical connector for it + scrubbed the ick from the throttle body several times which has solved strange drivability as described above.
The electrical connector for the bypass throttle body gets soaked with oil via crankcase vapors. Happens with nice CCV hoses.
In my E-55 I experienced strange shifting that was the torque converter locking up for a lurching shift.
01-22-2019, 03:20 PM
#10
Senior Member
iv owner my e55 amp for about 3 months now. Had my fair share of problems with it which Iv sorted.
but the car is not nice to drive at all. Gear changes are really sluggish and jerky. Going from 2nd to 3rd. The car feels like Iv let of the gas for a split second once in 3rd. Or sometimes feels like Iv applied more gas and jerks toward. Even worse from 1st -2nd. 3rd-4th and 4th-5th seem fine.
sometimes with light throttle response the car feels like it missifires really bad. But I think this may be down to the tune. Running a 74mm fixed pulley. Spoke to race iq you said they can send me over a different tune.
Also I can be at a junction. Go to pull away slowly and literally the car lurches forward very aggressively nearly snapping my neck and the passengers for about 10feet. And I sort of kangoro down the road for abit like I’m pumping the throttle. It feels like a trans issue to me.
Anyone else had similar probs.
but the car is not nice to drive at all. Gear changes are really sluggish and jerky. Going from 2nd to 3rd. The car feels like Iv let of the gas for a split second once in 3rd. Or sometimes feels like Iv applied more gas and jerks toward. Even worse from 1st -2nd. 3rd-4th and 4th-5th seem fine.
sometimes with light throttle response the car feels like it missifires really bad. But I think this may be down to the tune. Running a 74mm fixed pulley. Spoke to race iq you said they can send me over a different tune.
Also I can be at a junction. Go to pull away slowly and literally the car lurches forward very aggressively nearly snapping my neck and the passengers for about 10feet. And I sort of kangoro down the road for abit like I’m pumping the throttle. It feels like a trans issue to me.
Anyone else had similar probs.
01-22-2019, 03:29 PM
#11
Super Member
Curious to follow this, I had some weird transmission issues that were fixed (TCC solenoid, sleeve kit and conductor plate) and I was tuned and installed an 80mm fixed pulley basically at the same time as the transmission problems were finally sorted. I've got a low-load hesitation and delay of power on 1-2 and 2-3 shifts but had been chalking it up to possibly how these transmissions normally act (of all the cars I've owned this is one of the first automatics, so I just figured it was bound to be slower/lazy)...
That said after reading this morning I hooked in my Carsoft and graphed timing, sure enough I was going from -20 and spiking to almost 0 on the really slow shifts, gave it more load/speed and the spike was less. I've got a RaceIQ tune (definitely making a ton of power as I can't find traction most of the time haha) and I've tried with the sc clutch unplugged and resistor installed, and with it plugged in. Tony had said the resistor wasn't needed but some cars end up liking them more.
Going to check and clean that bypass connector next--is it accessible without removing the throttle body?
That said after reading this morning I hooked in my Carsoft and graphed timing, sure enough I was going from -20 and spiking to almost 0 on the really slow shifts, gave it more load/speed and the spike was less. I've got a RaceIQ tune (definitely making a ton of power as I can't find traction most of the time haha) and I've tried with the sc clutch unplugged and resistor installed, and with it plugged in. Tony had said the resistor wasn't needed but some cars end up liking them more.
Going to check and clean that bypass connector next--is it accessible without removing the throttle body?
01-22-2019, 06:04 PM
#12
Super Member
Hey guys. It's the ESP. The car will not shift gears when wheel speeds are outside of tolerance at WOT. Aka one wheel is spinning 5% faster than the other..If 1-2 power cuts like u bounced the rev limiter and you feel like the car is trying to make tyou headbutt the steering wheel this means you need an lsd. Idk what these sedate driving problems are caused by..maybe your speed sensors are bit bad?
I tuned ec and first engagement of sc clutch from cold would cause buckin all of sudden after years on the tune, after that initial buck it would be fine til next cold start. Went with raceiq tune, problem gone but the car revs to the moon with raceiq and crashes the tcu so solving that atm.
I tuned ec and first engagement of sc clutch from cold would cause buckin all of sudden after years on the tune, after that initial buck it would be fine til next cold start. Went with raceiq tune, problem gone but the car revs to the moon with raceiq and crashes the tcu so solving that atm.
Last edited by PieRat; 01-23-2019 at 02:44 AM.
01-31-2019, 03:20 PM
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E55 amg w211
I dipped my trans oil today on a stone cold engine and the oil level was above max. Do you need to dip trans oil with engine running or not. Still waiting for parts until I can service the trans.
01-31-2019, 03:27 PM
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Im from uk. It was tuned at msl by vrp gathering from my receipts that came with the car. I think vrp use race iq if I’m correct.
iv been speaking to race iq who said they can send me over a new tune if I buy there cable.
iv been speaking to race iq who said they can send me over a new tune if I buy there cable.
Last edited by Pd9264; 01-31-2019 at 03:33 PM.
01-31-2019, 03:31 PM
#16
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Always check trans fluid when running, and after shifting through a few gears, reverse, neutral etc. You can check in P or N and it shouldn't make a difference.
I'm on a RaceIQ tune, waiting to hear back from Tony about this issue and possibly trying a TCU tune (my '03 likely has the 'oldest' software on it I imagine).
I'm on a RaceIQ tune, waiting to hear back from Tony about this issue and possibly trying a TCU tune (my '03 likely has the 'oldest' software on it I imagine).
01-31-2019, 03:39 PM
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Always check trans fluid when running, and after shifting through a few gears, reverse, neutral etc. You can check in P or N and it shouldn't make a difference.
I'm on a RaceIQ tune, waiting to hear back from Tony about this issue and possibly trying a TCU tune (my '03 likely has the 'oldest' software on it I imagine).
I'm on a RaceIQ tune, waiting to hear back from Tony about this issue and possibly trying a TCU tune (my '03 likely has the 'oldest' software on it I imagine).
02-01-2019, 08:26 AM
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I had abit of spare time on my hands today. So I plugged my i car soft and got the trans temp upto 80 and dipped the gearbox and the level didn’t even register on the dip stick. Literally just the tip. So I added some atf and ended up putting 1500ml in to he it up to the level it needed to be at temp 80.
took it for a little drive and the gearshifts are transformed. So much more smoother and firmer. So at the weekend I’m gona drain the atf our fit a new conductor plate, filter and refill and hopefully be good as new.
would running the trans that low on oil damage it. I know they use somewhere around 6 litres but was nearly a 1.5 short. It’s defiantly made a difference though.
took it for a little drive and the gearshifts are transformed. So much more smoother and firmer. So at the weekend I’m gona drain the atf our fit a new conductor plate, filter and refill and hopefully be good as new.
would running the trans that low on oil damage it. I know they use somewhere around 6 litres but was nearly a 1.5 short. It’s defiantly made a difference though.
02-01-2019, 11:48 AM
#19
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It might have taken some life out of it, but they are pretty bulletproof too so I wouldn't worry much, especially if it never went into limp mode.
Wishing my issue was as simple, my level is spot on perfect but still has wonky shifting. I may try the re-adapt procedure for the TCC although I need to find a long deserted stretch of road which is a rarity where I live...
Wishing my issue was as simple, my level is spot on perfect but still has wonky shifting. I may try the re-adapt procedure for the TCC although I need to find a long deserted stretch of road which is a rarity where I live...
02-01-2019, 12:08 PM
#20
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Unless it was slipping, the low fluid level shouldn't cause any long term problems. Might be a good idea to do a full drain and fill with a new filter and (the proper) fluid though and check for excessive metal in the pan just in case. If someone didn't set the fluid level correctly, they may have used the wrong fluid too.
Sadly my problem is not so simple. Fluid level is fine...
Sadly my problem is not so simple. Fluid level is fine...
02-03-2019, 10:52 AM
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Done an oil change, new conductor plate, sonnax sleeve kit and new filter today. Quiet surprised there is blue top solonoids in there.
done it all and went for a drive and it was good for about 2mins until the revs started hanging and car acted very strange. Went back lifted the bonnet. And found that next to the throttle body there is a black connection on the right and for some reason the plug had popped out. One thing after another at the moment. But at least it’s not serious.
Last edited by Pd9264; 02-03-2019 at 10:55 AM.
02-03-2019, 02:26 PM
#22
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Done an oil change, new conductor plate, sonnax sleeve kit and new filter today. Quiet surprised there is blue top solonoids in there.
done it all and went for a drive and it was good for about 2mins until the revs started hanging and car acted very strange. Went back lifted the bonnet. And found that next to the throttle body there is a black connection on the right and for some reason the plug had popped out. One thing after another at the moment. But at least it’s not serious.
done it all and went for a drive and it was good for about 2mins until the revs started hanging and car acted very strange. Went back lifted the bonnet. And found that next to the throttle body there is a black connection on the right and for some reason the plug had popped out. One thing after another at the moment. But at least it’s not serious.
02-05-2019, 10:00 PM
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2004 s55, 2003 330ci , 2003 lx470, 92 landcruiser
Jerky
iv owner my e55 amp for about 3 months now. Had my fair share of problems with it which Iv sorted.
but the car is not nice to drive at all. Gear changes are really sluggish and jerky. Going from 2nd to 3rd. The car feels like Iv let of the gas for a split second once in 3rd. Or sometimes feels like Iv applied more gas and jerks toward. Even worse from 1st -2nd. 3rd-4th and 4th-5th seem fine.
sometimes with light throttle response the car feels like it missifires really bad. But I think this may be down to the tune. Running a 74mm fixed pulley. Spoke to race iq you said they can send me over a different tune.
Also I can be at a junction. Go to pull away slowly and literally the car lurches forward very aggressively nearly snapping my neck and the passengers for about 10feet. And I sort of kangoro down the road for abit like I’m pumping the throttle. It feels like a trans issue to me.
Anyone else had similar probs.
but the car is not nice to drive at all. Gear changes are really sluggish and jerky. Going from 2nd to 3rd. The car feels like Iv let of the gas for a split second once in 3rd. Or sometimes feels like Iv applied more gas and jerks toward. Even worse from 1st -2nd. 3rd-4th and 4th-5th seem fine.
sometimes with light throttle response the car feels like it missifires really bad. But I think this may be down to the tune. Running a 74mm fixed pulley. Spoke to race iq you said they can send me over a different tune.
Also I can be at a junction. Go to pull away slowly and literally the car lurches forward very aggressively nearly snapping my neck and the passengers for about 10feet. And I sort of kangoro down the road for abit like I’m pumping the throttle. It feels like a trans issue to me.
Anyone else had similar probs.
Last edited by Sclassmercedes; 02-05-2019 at 10:04 PM. Reason: Spelling
02-06-2019, 05:50 PM
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E55 amg w211
let me ask this , when you accelerate hard or quick does it feel like you’re tapping on the accelerator pedal really quick ? The car does a double jump every time it gets close to changing to the next gear. Do you feel like the car is shifting gears from 1st before you even get to second gear ? I get a slight miss that feels like a really quick gear shift between first and second . I came to a conclusion , it’s my throttle body . It’s either getting stuck or slow at responding . My percentage is at 2.4 at idle , and I can only go to 96.5 at wot . I’m assuming you got the same issues . If you drive slow and it feels like a misfiring but if you wot there’s no issues .
yes wot the car feels fine. Light throttle it feels jumpy in 1st and second and sometimes I do get a misfire like it’s a really fast gear shift that feels like the gearbox can’t make its mind up.
Iv not not had a chance to drive it yet since I serviced the trans. But your symptoms do feel very similar to mine.
