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So how did you get the stock bypass valve to almost seal complete?
So the best way is too take the bypass and use a 25 torx and loosen the screws and then close the bypass completely and move the blade lil by lil til u have it sealed best, mark it and then tighten the screws to hold it then i took my dremel an angled the edges of the blade so that it could seal even closer .... then repeat the above process until u have it best it can be.
That is very interesting. I wonder how long the seal/dry lubricant would last under the operating conditions as well as frequency of cycling of the bypass valve.
That is very interesting. I wonder how long the seal/dry lubricant would last under the operating conditions as well as frequency of cycling of the bypass valve.
Exactly i had mine plugged in and hangin out the hood for.a.bit so i could see how often it opened an closed an it was A LOT
What I did for my throttle body (Evo 9) was use feeler gauges to center the throttle plate so that the light peaking through was even on all sides. It never seemed to contact the side so the coating was there and fine. BUT the big air to air intercooler always cooled the air to lower temps then what the E55 seems to get to. I would think as long as the throttle/bypass plate is not contacting the side and the light peeking through is even on all sides then it SHOULD hold up from use. Only thing that is unknown is how it will handle the heat of the E55.
What I did for my throttle body (Evo 9) was use feeler gauges to center the throttle plate so that the light peaking through was even on all sides. It never seemed to contact the side so the coating was there and fine. BUT the big air to air intercooler always cooled the air to lower temps then what the E55 seems to get to. I would think as long as the throttle/bypass plate is not contacting the side and the light peeking through is even on all sides then it SHOULD hold up from use. Only thing that is unknown is how it will handle the heat of the E55.
Thanks for the info. How often did you have to reapply?
Thanks for the info. How often did you have to reapply?
never have, but honestly I have only seen the area once after and I wasn’t concerned with the coating. I’ll see if I can take a look tomorrow. If it is good, it will be like 9 years later
never have, but honestly I have only seen the area once after and I wasn’t concerned with the coating. I’ll see if I can take a look tomorrow. If it is good, it will be like 9 years later
So new results similar driving styles 2 tanks of gas with the bypass average was 19.2 to 19.6 after the delete 15.8 to 16.6 but i feel i did more playing with the delete.
Going to get some help with tuning soon i hope and see if this helps with driveability an mileage. New intercooler going in soon an that should help with iats.
So new results similar driving styles 2 tanks of gas with the bypass average was 19.2 to 19.6 after the delete 15.8 to 16.6 but i feel i did more playing with the delete.
Going to get some help with tuning soon i hope and see if this helps with driveability an mileage. New intercooler going in soon an that should help with iats.
Good info thanks! Hopefully Tony can work some magic on that thing. What did you do with the intercooler?
Good info thanks! Hopefully Tony can work some magic on that thing. What did you do with the intercooler?
Have a custom one being made for me bigger tanks, 3/4 inlet an outlet, better core and single pass .... going to work well with my trunk tank and new emp super high flow intercooler pump the trunk tank will be made soon as well im going to have a 8 to 10 gallon tank made.
So new results similar driving styles 2 tanks of gas with the bypass average was 19.2 to 19.6 after the delete 15.8 to 16.6 but i feel i did more playing with the delete.
Going to get some help with tuning soon i hope and see if this helps with driveability an mileage. New intercooler going in soon an that should help with iats.
Are You planning on hitting the dyno again when you tuned up for it with the bypass delete to check the difference it makes or not?
So while im waitin on the tuning decided it was time for a few more mods .... well general maintance anyway already did all the suspension cept for a few.parts that im doing now. Inner and outer tie rods, new front hubs an bearings, new frt and rear sway bar links, and new driveshaft flex rings.
never have, but honestly I have only seen the area once after and I wasn’t concerned with the coating. I’ll see if I can take a look tomorrow. If it is good, it will be like 9 years later
You get a chance to check on that seal coating?
Originally Posted by E55amg0220
I sure will be we are wking in the tune at rhe moment
Not at the moment but i didnt ask him ece was able to get a hold of jerry at ec an hes working on a tune for it. Havent heard back since fri but he had to make a few adjustments to the tune. But fingers crossed
Well I don't know how the tuning is coming but this may come in handy in regards to coming up with a solution for any faults. Credit to a Mr O'Leary from the FB groups for the documentation, I'm sure is one of these screen names lurking around here. See attached PDFs for ME wiring harness including bypass valve pinout that he recently posted. The abbreviations document is how where you can look up what the wires actually are.
BPV Components
M16/7 Air recirculation flap actuator
M16/7m1 Actuator motor
M16/7r1 Air recirculation flap actual value potentiometer
M16/7r2 Drive actual value potentiometer 38 K
M16/7r3 Actual value potentiometer (sliding contact 1)
M16/7r4 Actual value potentiometer (sliding contact 2)
BPV Pinout
1: AP ULK : Air recirculation flap actuator -
2: MR ULK : Ground (air recirculation flap potentiometer)
4: AP ULK+ : Air reciculation flap actuator +
5: EA IP2S : Actual value potentiometer 2 sliding contact analog input (to the me, actually an output from the potentiometer on the BPV)
6: EA ULK1 : Air recirculation flap analog input (to the me, actually an output from the potentiometer on the BPV)
3: Annddd the last and only unlabeled pin (3 on the BPV) has to be the positive to the two potentiometers. (Not labeled though)
Well what we might be able to do with that ball of crap? I'll tell you what. If this block of plate becomes a real thing and we want to get rid of the codes from the the BPV being gone heres an idea. Splice into one of the TPS sensor outputs (there are two inverted outpus, one 0-5V and one 5V-0) and feed that directly into the EA ULK1 and EA IP2S feeds into the ME unit. If they all components use linear 0-5V signals that may do the trick, as soon as the petal is pushed, the ME will see the voltage value it is expecting from the BPV potentiometers already, and will think the BPV is in the correct position. I believe I can get on DAS and see exactly what the voltage values read from to the ME for the BPV potentiometers and the TPS potentiometers, in all positions. That would let us know if that would work. Maybe I'll dig into it tomorrow. Then the only other thing that would be needed (if the ME gets pissy about no motor being present) is a resistor between the motor + and - equal to the resistance of the motor windings.
Any ways, lets get some block off plate updates, no ones excited about it
EDIT: **** me. This is the BPV, not the TB. We already know it doesn't operate linearly with the throttle, it goes full closed at like 2k RPM. This wont work. haha, damn it.
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