E42AMG???

Do you or anyone have logs of it?

Hulk

Reasons are that some people bought kits from others that had no issues and unfortunately they had issues, also it’s documented with a few guys logging that it would trigger (denroll) being one of them, he had good logging equipment not this obd ****.

most conclusive was kustom2k1 had the issue and no matter what tunes he couldn’t get it fixed until his tune was fixed from a retired renttech tuner, the problem never came back, same hardware and no issue

VictoryRoadPerformance

We have one 80mm snout and wiring harness if anyone is interested. $230 for both + your stock or ported 74mm core

Crissus

On Facebook in the groups the Eurocharged Guys said that the hiccup issues is hardware and IIRC leaks and they had some/many customers with that issue and once they resealed everything, especially the gasket around the bypass throttlebody, the issue vanished. So would you say they lie? IIRC other people chimed in over there and confirmed it. It was back in 2018 IIRC.
I'm a german living in germany. I contacted our most known Mercedes tuners that do the 82mm TB mod for the M113Ks and they said its because of backup/fallback maps in the ECU and IIRC certain pressure tables for the map sensor have to be altered. They do NOT have the Hiccup issues here in germany with the Mercedes 82mm TB. On the other hand our tunes here a very "mild" on power gains. The US tunes are much stronger.
But somehow i doubt that there is a big "secret" the US tuners are to stupid to figure out. They are all connected via tuning forums and share(sell) most things with each other.

I actually thought the 82mm hiccup issue was fixed and i marked it as "solved" in my brain. So reading this discussion here makes me wonder really...

Crissus

https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ssue-poll.html

E55amg0220

Crissus, i think its in the tune the map n backup tables need to be tweeked bad just dont see why its such a hard thing to get done.

SICAMG

Well this is a huge surprise.......not !!!!! Just test drove the 80mm throttle body install.....aaannnnnnnnnnd .......she has a slight hiccup !!!! Fantastic.!!! What it does is have a VERY miner throttle cut on the shifts. Very minor but it is there. Drives fine other than that and I did not do any adaptation, just threw it on. Snout was already ported when I pulled the engine this past winter so not a leak and no codes. You really have to drive it just right to notice. I will give it a day to learn and than throw the stocker back on if need be.

Crissus

You need a retune for it to work IIRC....

ajm55

When mentioning the "hiccup" issue, not everyone appears to be talking about the same thing. My understanding of the issue originally labelled as such is that at some point the car starts running lean (and usually dangerously so) and will continue to do so until the ignition is turned off and re-started. I had this for a number of years on my car. Throughout this time, I was boosting upward of 17.5 PSI. I then switched to a smaller upper pulley and the issue has never again manifested. In my case, it appears to have had everything to do with boost (with the ECU perhaps switching to a back-up map) and nothing at all to do with leaks or anything else, for that matter..

SICAMG

Your boost issue was my problem as well as you know and adjusting the map clamp put everything back to normal.
The throttle body / lean out issue is the "real hiccup" and mine is ........well just a minor little glitch I would say compared to every one else.

SICAMG

OK just came back from a good beating on the car with long pull's. The good news is it picked up from 17 to 18lb's of boost even in 80* temps.
Drives perfect....some times but even when she acts up after the shift it is very minute. A tune may resolve it but waiting to hear back from my tuner.
I also filled the dual trunk tanks with ice that brought temps down to max 90-100* at 80* outside temps on every pull so cooler intake temps do not have an effect on this "hiccup" issue. Didn't think it would but who knows.

Hulk

Get a retune and reset tb and you should be good to go
remmebrr the hiccup also comes with the afr going dangerously high so watch that also but 80mm is problem free , the only time I have ever heard of someone having the hiccup was going from a problematic 82mm and then back down to a 80mm but after a few resets and retunes it was fine

SICAMG

Hulk you described in detail on the reset but I can not find it anywhere. It was a key on, then connect throttle body...and so on.

PieRat

Sneaky trans reset also reset throttlebody adaptions I believe.

SICAMG

Tried that PieRat...didn't help.

SICAMG

Tuner just informed me there is not much he can do ...it's just one of those things he said. I will try a battery disconnect Saturday and see what happens.

PieRat

Throttle cut on shifts eh? Is this just during WOT?

PieRat

I guess my thinking is I used to have very severe power cut on 1st to 2nd shift when WOT once I put my 77mm in (already had some other mods at the time). At first I thought it was the car hitting the rev limter, but with some experimentation I became rather convinced it was the wheels spinning at different speeds during the shift so the car's computer would cut power during the shift. I noticed if i almost pre-counter steered the back stepping out to keep the car as straight as possible I'd get a nice hard clean shift.

When I got the wavetrac LSD I had nice hard smooth shifts with no power cut...Can't see anyones mods for some reason even on desktop so don't know if you have LSD already?

SICAMG

Your first question: No this is a very miner throttle reduction at normal driving with or with out the supercharger engaged. Some times it does not do it but most times it does. I will reset everything and than play with Star and see what I come up with. It is definetly something that I can live with if I have to but we will see.
This is some funny sheet though. For 2 years the throttle body sat on the shelf because of possible issues but I said lets give it a shot !!!!

And no LSD although I am putting togather a 3.23 rear diff right now so may add the LSD unit as well.

Hulk

Had this saved from years ago

TB Reset




1. Put tb on and reset the ecu with a scan tool.Dont start the car yet!

2. Go over to the throttle body and unhook the cable going to it.

3. Turn ignition key to the stage right before the car turns on. (position 2)You should get a error on the dash. (ESP Visit Workshop) wait 20 seconds and then turn the key to the first position not 0. leaving key intact.

4. Plug the cable back in.

5. Now go put the key to the stage right before the car starts and wait 3 min,the car will re adapt the throttle body and you will hear it move on its on. While this is going on, put everything back together!

6. Start car from position 2, and everything should be okay, tap gas peddle, rpm should drop normally, if they get stuck, or if you have a CEL, you did NOT do the reset correctly!

SICAMG

OK thanks a lot, will give it a try. Although I don't believe this will do anything as it has to be in the tuning to fix it and not where the throttle body is positioned in the rpm range.
The ECU clearly see's something it doe's not like !!!

Hulk

I have always said it’s an ecu issue

on your 80mm I tried it a few times on a buddies 80mm and eventually fixed it took 3-4 times

also try the stock tune and then put the real tune in and do the reset

SICAMG

You did the reset 3-4 times to fix your buddies car ??
Or 3-4 tunes?
Thanks

Hulk

3-4 resets

so put on stock tune
start car for a few minutes then retune with your real tune and then do the reset
it should work
if not do the reset a few more times no need to load stock tune
fingers crossed bro

Hulk

I want to stress this is only for the 80mm
this will NOT work if you have issues with 82mm or bigger