What have you guys paid for a rear main seal job? 05 e55.
Anybody you can recommend in Los Angeles

 

My car is in the garage for the rear engine leak job now. The parts costed me about AED 300 (USD 81) from the local dealers parts counter.

The following parts:

A013 997 09 46 - Transmission oil pump seal
A112 997 02 46 - Crankshaft seal
A112 011 02 08 - Crankshaft seal retainer (recommended by the Indy to change this)
Mercedes Benz sealant

Here i could get hold of only Original Mercedes parts, but I see that there are options like Corteco transmission oil pump seal for half price online. The parts will be overall cheaper for you to buy in the US.

These are the only parts required for the job however it is a labour intensive job. Here at specialist garages, the rates are much lower in comparison to the main dealership. I am getting the rear engine seal job done along with new engine and transmission mounts for about AED 1000 (USD 272). Sure its going to cost much more in the US. Good luck with the job and hope the members here an recommend a good garage based on their experience.

I'd recommend to inspect engine and transmission mounts and get it done at the same time.

 

I paid $900, out the door, at my Indy.

 

The parts are cheap but labor cost about $800 to $1000
i will drive until need engine and tranny mounts need to change then do the rear main seal.

 

Mine was $1100 at the dealer. I've also done it myself, in my garage without a lift. It might just be worth the money. I hate pulling the transmission with the car on jackstands!

 

You did twice already ? how many miles each time ?

 

Two different cars. My E55 had about 80k and my CLK55 had over 220k.

 

This is on my to-do, thanks for useful info. Thinking when the time comes to just get the motor, trans mounts, headers, etc out of the way on the same time...

 

Yes Labor is the main part but also great time to add a 3000 stall converter. It is like free labor then.
http://ultimatepd.com/upd-55k-merced...-stall-19.html

 

How much "leak" is acceptable before it's time to fix it? If there's just some seepage are you OK for a little while?

When I got my car a month ago the selling dealer noted a small RMS leak and quoted $1800 to fix it. Of course that is too high. I've reached out to some indy shops for quotes as well. Have put 3k on the car since then.

Don't notice any drips or obvious sings of leaking on the ground...

Figured when it's time for RMS I can do a few other "while they're in there" fixes / upgrades.

 

I had this issue diagnosed and the oil leak was minor. I kept driving for about 10000 km/3 months before I got it fixed. Since it was mostly highway miles, the leaking oil spread out and had to be cleaned. It's best you get it done.

I don't know how, but oil had got into my TCU and caused a failure, had to replace it with a used unit.

 

Thanks for the info - Looks like those are my next steps then...

 

I don't know about you, but my research into the replacement of the rear Main seal on my 2007 E63 led me to the conclusion that in addition to the items mentioned above ( MY E63 doesn't have the Seal Retainer) I would also need the following:

a. New Bell Housing Bolts as they are One-time use as exemplified by their requiring 40Nm? + 90* (I.E. they stretch)
b. New flywheel bolts ( it's just prudent to do so after 100k
c. TQ cap bolts

While I'm at it I'm geared up to replace the rubber Driveshaft discs/bolts as well as the mid-shaft bearing and shaft end boot. With the Tranny out, I intend on cleaning the Valve Body and replacing the 2 plastic ***** and see if all valves are clean-vs-blocked with metal that cannot be removed via Magnet.

All the little gearshift bits-washers are to be renewed for less than $20 as well as oil cooling lines O-rings and the Valve Electrical Connector O-rings.

Most all rear Suspension and Subframe Bushings are to be renewed with standby Front Torque Arm Bolts-nuts in the event rear Subframe bolts break! Also rear differential Bushings!

UPD Adjustable Rear Toe Kit, new Hubs and Flanges, Rotors, Brakes, rear shocks and RMT Rear Air springs OH My!!!

Since mine is an NA, the 3000 stall TQ isn't really necessary. Besides, I have paddle Shifters to drop gear when necessary. Thinking about looking inside the Tranny itself to renew any clutches, Sealing rings, needle bearings etc.

Maybe down the road, I may bust a move for billet Cams with advanced timing and a corresponding ECU tune with Row Airboxes and Long Tube Headers, but not quite ready to pull the lever on that as I'm really pleased with the engine after having rebuilt it right after my purchase in Dec. 2017. Had the Heads rebuilt by Xtreme Heads in Palm City, Fl., as they have it all there and more! Had my Intake Manifold, which was riddled with holes around the Throttle body Plenum, rebuilt by RMT in Pompano Beach, Fl and picked up a pair of their rebuilt Front Airstruts while I was there! They actually swapped out the top half of my Intake Manifold with another they had at the time (mine was deteriorating as the little nubs that the little circular retainers which hold down the Breather hose were all gone!) as well as replaced the Throttle Plenum with a beafy one they make in-house and sell on EBay along with their other offerings. Great group of guys and gals!!! While waiting for those repairs I rebuilt the front Suspension removing each Steering Spindle to install Ball Joints using my bench vise and Dewalt Hammer Drill along with an Autozone Master Ball Joint Kit. Also replaced both Torque Arms and bushes for the Spring Control Arms and installed F1 Fabrications Front Adjustable Camber Arms which were great in order to correct a serious pull to the right after adjusting/repositioning all lower Arms to correct for my pull to the right.

Since I didn't renew the Steering Rack bushes, I'll be doing that next. That should hopefully correct some drift I'm experiencing at high speed!!!