Some lease questions, think the dealer is trying to skrew me
What should the payment actually be and how bad is he trying to skrew me? I'm thinking of just grabbing another salesman and telling this guy to fist himself.
1. what is the residual value after 60 months
2. what is the "money factor" he is using...
If he's trying to screw you, it would likely be the money factor he's trying to screw you with...
I pulled up a lease calculator that I've used in the past - assuming residual values haven't changed too much in the past 2 years, you're being assessed a money factor that equates to about a 5% interest rate. sounds a bit steep to me.
my guess: once you start asking questions, your salesman will realize you know what you're talking about, and start quoting you a better rate, and thus, a better monthly payment... [fyi - residuals are typically industry standards provided by a group called ALS, so the "money factor" is typically how they can screw the uninitiated...]
best of luck.
I wouldn’t lease a car for longer the warranty period. It’s a crappy feeling to pay for some expensive repair on the car to only return it in a couple of months.
If you would be cutting it close with 10k miles, go for 12k…there isn’t that much of a difference in cost.
Find out the money factor. Multiply it by 2400 to get a comparable interest rate to another lease and get the residual as high as possible.
Another salesman at the same dealer isn’t going to help since he is going through the same lease guy. Tell them you are going to find a leasing company to get the same car and see what their counter is and then find the leasing company.
Plug in your numbers and see what you get on this site: With 20 k down it says you should be paying a little over $900 a month.
http://www.cars.com/carsapp/national...ota&mdnm=Camry
I wouldn’t lease a car for longer the warranty period. It’s a crappy feeling to pay for some expensive repair on the car to only return it in a couple of months.
If you would be cutting it close with 10k miles, go for 12k…there isn’t that much of a difference in cost.
Find out the money factor. Multiply it by 2400 to get a comparable interest rate to another lease and get the residual as high as possible.
Another salesman at the same dealer isn’t going to help since he is going through the same lease guy. Tell them you are going to find a leasing company to get the same car and see what their counter is and then find the leasing company.
Plug in your numbers and see what you get on this site: With 20 k down it says you should be paying a little over $900 a month.
I got an excellent deal with US Bank through www.autoleasingspecialist.com. www.leasecompare.com is a good place to start, but there are better deals out there if you search for them.
Then There Is The Credit Scores, Which Effect Money Factors, And As Far As Benz Having The Worst Money Factors Not Always The Case, Most Of The Time It Is The Dealer Trying To Make Points On Finance, Like A Mortgage. And Then On The East Coast, New York And Various Other Liability States The Leasing Company Requires An Insurance Policy, Usually Cost Around 1500, So Thats Added To The Cost.
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US Bank also has my lease - ..........No money down, 48 mos., 12k/yr, $1275 month plus tax. MSRP sticker was $84,885 and the residual after 4 years is 36,950. -- I used "Lease-By-Tel" at 1-(877)-989-1500. BTW -They did all the paperwork and dropped it off at my front door!! Buying a car was never so effortless and easy!!
Check it out - Dr.Chills contact and mine.
Put the $20k in a interest bearing account. (ING orange savings account if you're conservative)
Put $0 down and lease a new 06 ($85K+) for around $1300-$1400 a month for 36 or 39mths.
Use the $20k to offset your monthly payments (minus $500 to $550 a month for 36 to 39 months).
Now you only have to come up with say $800 a month for the car.
If you are able to write the car off for tax purposes take off another $250-300 per month.
Your car payment now is around $500.
By the time your lease ends sell the car w/ 36k miles on it for $50-$55k (cheap by the cars in autotrader selling for $62k) payoff the $47k residual. And use the extra $5 or 10k for your next lease.
Put the $20k in a interest bearing account. (ING orange savings account if you're conservative)
Put $0 down and lease a new 06 ($85K+) for around $1300-$1400 a month for 36 or 39mths.
Use the $20k to offset your monthly payments (minus $500 to $550 a month for 36 to 39 months).
Now you only have to come up with say $800 a month for the car.
If you are able to write the car off for tax purposes take off another $250-300 per month.
Your car payment now is around $500.
By the time your lease ends sell the car w/ 36k miles on it for $50-$55k (cheap by the cars in autotrader selling for $62k) payoff the $47k residual. And use the extra $5 or 10k for your next lease.
$20k / 39 months = $512
If you find a savings account or any other interest bearing account yielding 30% let me know.
I see what you mean now...$20k / 39 months = $512
If you find a savings account or any other interest bearing account yielding 30% let me know.

If your FICA score is above 700, NEVER, I repeat NEVER put money down on a lease.
If your FICA score is above 700, NEVER, I repeat NEVER put money down on a lease. 






