Supercharger chirp
#1
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Supercharger chirp
Hey everyone, ive heard its common on the M113K to have a supercharger chirp. I didnt have one until recently. Low 60k on a 2005 E55. Any idea how to fix it? Happens on lower accel around 30-35mph. Usually happens 1-2x then goes away till the car cools off. Just a quick chirp then gone. No adverse performance or drivability issues. If I dont wait for that initial tini chirp and accel a bit harder the chirp is louder.
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
#2
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This place is a joke.
Many of these problems can be found using the search feature:
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...irp-sound.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...irp-sound.html
#3
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Thanks for the help. I read the post. Use a feeler gauge to apply the valve grinding compound between the magnet and clutch surfaces... do I need to remove the pulley to do that? Or just slide the feeler gauge up in there and start the motor?
#4
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Don't remove the pulley, with the engine OFF of course, just use something thin like a feeler gauge to spread it around down inside the gap. A pocket flat blade screwdriver can be used to help spread the gap open. working from the top, turn the supercharger magnet by hand and get a few different areas covered. Then just go drive it!
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Gregc216 (02-05-2020)
#5
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Also check your pulley to clutch gap while at it. The clutch may have worn down a lot over the years and may need a shim removed or you can upgrade to aftermarket, as it is manifest destiny to go that route eventually.
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E63 Biturbo, UPD Cold Air induction kit, UPD performance crank pulley and UPD adjustable rear suspension with ride height adjustment.
CL55 UPD Cold Air Boost kit, UPD 3000 stall converter, UPD 77mm SC clutched pulley and beltwrap kit, Custom long tubes, UPD crank pulley , UPD suspension kit, UPD SC pulley, Aux. HE, Trunk tank w/rule 2000 pump, Mezeire pump, UPD 5pc idler set, Aluminum rotor hats.
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instagram @ultimate_pd
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Gregc216 (02-05-2020)
#6
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I don’t think mine would be THAT bad. The car is low miles, 62k at the moment. What’s the gap supposed to be? ITs my daily driver I really don’t wanna mod it to be honest. Reliable daily amg has always been my dream haha (I have a big block chevy for the mods haha)
#7
Junior Member
I have read some threads where other m113k owners say that It can be temporary fixed by cleaning the supercharger pulley back. Cleaning it by sanding it smoother supposed to be a temporary fix. Or new SC pulley is your next option
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Gregc216 (02-05-2020)
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#8
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Bought my car with just over 60k miles. It had the clutch chirp /squeek.
The gap was too big. Adjusted it by removing one shim. Cleaned the clutch with high grit sandpaper on a flat surface.
No more chirp, no more hickup on engagememt.
The gap was too big. Adjusted it by removing one shim. Cleaned the clutch with high grit sandpaper on a flat surface.
No more chirp, no more hickup on engagememt.
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Gregc216 (02-06-2020)
#9
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Thread Starter
ok after some digging I found the gap should be .35-.45mm mine measured .50. What’s my next step? Just do the valve grinding compound periodically? Or is this in need of replacment? Or shim removal?
Last edited by Gregc216; 02-06-2020 at 09:00 PM. Reason: Spell correct, found info.
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Don't remove the pulley, with the engine OFF of course, just use something thin like a feeler gauge to spread it around down inside the gap. A pocket flat blade screwdriver can be used to help spread the gap open. working from the top, turn the supercharger magnet by hand and get a few different areas covered. Then just go drive it!
#13
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Most of the stock pulleys have two 0.10mm adjusting shims inside. You remove them accordingly to your measurements and clutch engagement field tests
Applying valve compound or anything else (I beleive there was some service bulletin about applying graphite spray thru a piece of paper stuck in the gap) won't help on too big of a gap but it surely can help with squeeking.
Doing it you don't really have to worry about it being spread around the clutch but I'd focus on filling it as deep as possible. Centrifugal force of a spinning clutch will definitely not help.
I actually I ha dsqueeking clutch when I overfilled my supercharger oil but it could have been easily recignized via smell
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#14
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MB: E55 AMG, CL550, E3004M Cab + other makes :)
If the gaps too big it should be adjusted IMHO. The bigger the gap the bigger the slip which means faster wear.
Most of the stock pulleys have two 0.10mm adjusting shims inside. You remove them accordingly to your measurements and clutch engagement field tests
Applying valve compound or anything else (I beleive there was some service bulletin about applying graphite spray thru a piece of paper stuck in the gap) won't help on too big of a gap but it surely can help with squeeking.
Doing it you don't really have to worry about it being spread around the clutch but I'd focus on filling it as deep as possible. Centrifugal force of a spinning clutch will definitely not help.
I actually I ha dsqueeking clutch when I overfilled my supercharger oil but it could have been easily recignized via smell![Wink](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Most of the stock pulleys have two 0.10mm adjusting shims inside. You remove them accordingly to your measurements and clutch engagement field tests
Applying valve compound or anything else (I beleive there was some service bulletin about applying graphite spray thru a piece of paper stuck in the gap) won't help on too big of a gap but it surely can help with squeeking.
Doing it you don't really have to worry about it being spread around the clutch but I'd focus on filling it as deep as possible. Centrifugal force of a spinning clutch will definitely not help.
I actually I ha dsqueeking clutch when I overfilled my supercharger oil but it could have been easily recignized via smell
![Wink](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
#16
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Thread Starter
Thanks for the pics. This all a huge help. Thanks everyone so much. As soon as I can get under the hood I’ll post some pics and an update on how it hashed out. I’m assuming if I pull the pulley off and readjust by removing a shim I should replace the bearing while I’m at it?
Last edited by Gregc216; 02-07-2020 at 06:04 PM. Reason: Spelling
#17
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MB: E55 AMG, CL550, E3004M Cab + other makes :)
Thanks for the pics. This all a huge help. Thanks everyone so much. As soon as I can get under the hood I’ll post some pics and an update on how it hashed out. I’m assuming if I pull the pulley off and readjust by removing a shim I should replace the bearing while I’m at it?
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KAMG (02-08-2020)
#18
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Thanks for the pics. This all a huge help. Thanks everyone so much. As soon as I can get under the hood I’ll post some pics and an update on how it hashed out. I’m assuming if I pull the pulley off and readjust by removing a shim I should replace the bearing while I’m at it?
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#19
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Thread Starter
Ok just to follow up. Replaced the bearing, used the valve grind lube on the clutch and took out 2 shims to get the gap to .40 No more chirp. Nice and smooth. Thanks everyone!
Last edited by Gregc216; 03-30-2020 at 08:45 PM. Reason: Spelling, typo