Question on fuel pressure regulator
If I actuate the pump in STAR with ignition off it primes and holds a steady 75. But once I turn the car on it holds 78 at idle. How is it possible for this to be higher than the regulator? And higher when the car is running? Is it the heat expanding fuel in the rail and raising pressure?
Asking because I am having an issue with pressure rapidly fluctuating between low 70's and low 80's during certain low rpm high load conditions, but holds 78 psi on highway or higher rpm. Trying to see if it could potentially point to regulator or maybe the damper (but everything I've read about damper failures just talk about them leaking)




Last edited by E55Greasemonkey; Aug 6, 2020 at 11:37 PM.




I would hypothesize pressure change is due to difference between voltage engine off (12.3v) versus engine on (13.9 v). Regulator looks like stamped steel. Good enough for government worwork... something to discuss over beer.
Last edited by bbirdwell; Aug 6, 2020 at 10:38 PM.


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Did you have any drivability issues (surging perhaps) or STFT symptoms to go with it? Just trying to find any piece of evidence that I should do this...I've got maybe a little idle roughness on a cold start.
Last edited by kevm14; Aug 16, 2020 at 09:27 AM.
What it does is "dampen" the fuel pressure pulse's each time the injectors fire. This helps to keep pressures consistant in the rails and against each injector.
Mine has been removed and showed no change at all in data log at the time of just removing it. Fuel pressure is basically controlled by the PCM with voltage and will slightly go up when supercharger is on.
A dampner that has failed may show fluctuations in pressure due to it not doing it's job but as far as controlling the actual pressure it self...no.,as It has no where to bleed off and excess or increase.
Last edited by SICAMG; Aug 16, 2020 at 12:53 PM.


What it does is "dampen" the fuel pressure pulse's each time the injectors fire. This helps to keep pressures consistant in the rails and against each injector.
Mine has been removed and showed no change at all in data log at the time of just removing it. Fuel pressure is basically controlled by the PCM with voltage and will slightly go up when supercharger is on.
A dampner that has failed may show fluctuations in pressure due to it not doing it's job but as far as controlling the actual pressure it self...no.,as It has no where to bleed off and excess or increase.




What it does is "dampen" the fuel pressure pulse's each time the injectors fire. This helps to keep pressures consistant in the rails and against each injector.
Mine has been removed and showed no change at all in data log at the time of just removing it. Fuel pressure is basically controlled by the PCM with voltage and will slightly go up when supercharger is on.
A dampner that has failed may show fluctuations in pressure due to it not doing it's job but as far as controlling the actual pressure it self...no.,as It has no where to bleed off and excess or increase.
So...for TB gasket....#7 or #5 of below??
https://www.benzparts.com/v-2004-mer...and-components




What I should do is connect my fuel pressure gauge and check the pressure at idle before and after just to see.








Last edited by C32owner; Aug 20, 2020 at 10:53 AM.




I checked my fuel pressure off of a cold start just to see what the "before" looks like. I do want to say that my rail was at ZERO when I connected the gauge, so it clearly bled down overnight or whatever. I assume that's not normal? Though it doesn't seem to cause any issues. The pressure seemed to hold after shutoff but again apparently not after hours and hours of sitting. Anyway, pressure was 77 psi and wasn't fluctuating too bad but then as the idle came down a little, the needle started bouncing more. Maybe +/- 5 psi? Enough to warrant replacement of the damper.
Side note, if you have a pressure gauge with a relief as mine has, you can bleed down pressure very easily and safely. Of course fuel does dribble out of the rail even starting at zero and for some reason I wasn't prepared for this so it made a small mess under the car.
It's not a particularly hard job. Pulling the TB is super easy. Hardest part is that retaining clip. It did not make me nervous as I was expecting something made out of thin wire based on some other descriptions in this thread. Just a little fiddly to remove and install but vice grips helped the install (couldn't push it with my thumb, I tried). No need to disconnect the wiring harness of the TB, just set out of the way. I had cleaned it previously but I was able to get it 100% with it in my hands obviously.
New damper in, primed with ignition on, no leaks. Yay.
New TB gasket. I have no idea where that O-ring is supposed to go that I ordered, so I didn't use it. Took my time cleaning the surfaces to get all old gasket material off, per any usual repair.
Everything reinstalled, checked pressure again with the gauge. Same 77 psi of course but only the smallest needle bouncing and it never got any larger unlike before. So I'd say this was a success.
Driveability seems....the same? Maybe the transition into the blower is a little smoother (makes sense)? Certainly worthwhile as mine needed to be done. Nice thing is since this is a tuneup part (easy enough to check annually with a gauge but maybe also just put on a ~2 year schedule or something), I will never have to buy another since I bought from FCP Euro.




If I feel like it tomorrow, I'll hook up a fuel pressure gauge to my W210 E55 and see what the pressure is.
Last edited by bbirdwell; Mar 5, 2024 at 09:04 PM.





