New pads and rotors tips?
#1
Super Member
Thread Starter
New pads and rotors tips?
Hey guys gonna install new front brake pads and rotors, I have seen a couple videos looks pretty straight forward but does anyone have any tips they would like to add? My car is a CL55. I think the brakes are the same for all 55k cars.
Also are the caliper bolts a one time use?
Please comment the torque specs if you know thanks!
I do not have SBC btw...
Also are the caliper bolts a one time use?
Please comment the torque specs if you know thanks!
I do not have SBC btw...
#2
clean the threads + apply blue loctite at the minimum. mb says they’re 1 time use because mega torqued to 135 lb/ft.
i put it on dry and tightened with the breaker bar but stopped bc i thought it was more than enough. later one bolt fell out on the highway and made a bunch of noise. 135 lb/ft feels like you’re gonna break the bolt but just do it
i put it on dry and tightened with the breaker bar but stopped bc i thought it was more than enough. later one bolt fell out on the highway and made a bunch of noise. 135 lb/ft feels like you’re gonna break the bolt but just do it
Last edited by coupesedan; 02-08-2021 at 04:54 PM.
#3
MBWorld Fanatic!
If you haven't already purchased brake rotors, get the Zimmerman ones. The coating is great at preventing rust. I don't even live in an area where we get rust, and my Brembo rotors are showing surface rust where the rotor meets the wheel, and they’ve only been installed for two months.
Last edited by bobgodd; 02-08-2021 at 05:14 PM.
#6
Super Member
Thread Starter
clean the threads + apply blue loctite at the minimum. mb says they’re 1 time use because mega torqued to 135 lb/ft.
i put it on dry and tightened with the breaker bar but stopped bc i thought it was more than enough. later one bolt fell out on the highway and made a bunch of noise. 135 lb/ft feels like you’re gonna break the bolt but just do it
i put it on dry and tightened with the breaker bar but stopped bc i thought it was more than enough. later one bolt fell out on the highway and made a bunch of noise. 135 lb/ft feels like you’re gonna break the bolt but just do it
#7
Super Member
Thread Starter
If you haven't already purchased brake rotors, get the Zimmerman ones. The coating is great at preventing rust. I don't even live in an area where we get rust, and my Brembo rotors are showing surface rust where the rotor meets the wheel, and they’ve only been installed for two months.
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#8
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'99 and '05 E55 AMG
Caliper bolts are one-time use. Use a tap and run the threads to remove the old locking material.
Here are my notes from replacing front and rear pads and rotors. The reference to brake shoes refers to the rear parking brakes.
--Order and have on-hand a parking brake kit if you are replacing the rear rotors. If you need it, you have it. If you don't need it, you can always return it. Naturally, I did not have one on hand. I pulled the rear rotors (banged them off with a 4-pound shop hammer, actually) and discovered one of the shoes was missing the lining. Lost three days waiting to obtain the kit. Lesson learned.
-Caliper bolts are one-time use. MB WIS instructs the technician to run a tap through the threads to remove the old microencapsulation compound before installing the new bolts. Be advised these are high-torque bolts; when they break loose they break loose suddenly!
---Front bolts A001-990-08-14; torque to 180 Nm (133 ft-lbs). You'll need a 14mm x 1.5mm tap for these threads.
---Rear bolts A211-423-00-71; torque to 115 Nm (85 ft-lbs). You'll need a 12mm x 1.5mm tap for these threads.
-Bleeding the brake hydraulic system is a two person job; one to work the computer, the other to open/close bleeder valves, add fluid as necessary, and to hold the hose (of the used fluid reservoir) onto the bleeder valve. Hold the hose on firmly(!) or it will pop off and brake fluid spray everywhere! It alternates between low and high pressure when the computer engages the SBC unit to purge the system. Required approximately 1 & 1/2 liters of fluid. You'll need some type of pressurization device (e.g. Motive bleeder) to attach to the brake fluid reservoir. Pressure required is 2 Bar.
Here are my notes from replacing front and rear pads and rotors. The reference to brake shoes refers to the rear parking brakes.
--Order and have on-hand a parking brake kit if you are replacing the rear rotors. If you need it, you have it. If you don't need it, you can always return it. Naturally, I did not have one on hand. I pulled the rear rotors (banged them off with a 4-pound shop hammer, actually) and discovered one of the shoes was missing the lining. Lost three days waiting to obtain the kit. Lesson learned.
-Caliper bolts are one-time use. MB WIS instructs the technician to run a tap through the threads to remove the old microencapsulation compound before installing the new bolts. Be advised these are high-torque bolts; when they break loose they break loose suddenly!
---Front bolts A001-990-08-14; torque to 180 Nm (133 ft-lbs). You'll need a 14mm x 1.5mm tap for these threads.
---Rear bolts A211-423-00-71; torque to 115 Nm (85 ft-lbs). You'll need a 12mm x 1.5mm tap for these threads.
-Bleeding the brake hydraulic system is a two person job; one to work the computer, the other to open/close bleeder valves, add fluid as necessary, and to hold the hose (of the used fluid reservoir) onto the bleeder valve. Hold the hose on firmly(!) or it will pop off and brake fluid spray everywhere! It alternates between low and high pressure when the computer engages the SBC unit to purge the system. Required approximately 1 & 1/2 liters of fluid. You'll need some type of pressurization device (e.g. Motive bleeder) to attach to the brake fluid reservoir. Pressure required is 2 Bar.
#9
Senior Member
I use ate discs and brembo pads on my CLS 55. Works like stock. Coating is good on the ate rotors as well.
The brembo pads had way to thick coating on the sides, had to shave some of to fit. Which were annoying. Otherwise they are ok, like stock. Lots of dust.
The brembo pads had way to thick coating on the sides, had to shave some of to fit. Which were annoying. Otherwise they are ok, like stock. Lots of dust.
#10
MBWorld Fanatic!
Having rust treated rotors, are a benefit if you live in the rust belt, as road salts will take the toll during the winter.
I purchased Pagid Rotors for the rear, they came with a special rust inhibitor coating, and after two years still no rust.
My front are OEM Brembo 2-Piece rotors.
I purchased Pagid Rotors for the rear, they came with a special rust inhibitor coating, and after two years still no rust.
My front are OEM Brembo 2-Piece rotors.
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#11
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2004 E55,1969 300SEL6.3,2011 ML350 BlueTec Diesel,2005 ML400 CDI
Adding lightness by installing 2 piece rotors all around reduces rotational mass equal to about a 40 hp increase — not to mention the significant reduction of unsprung weight and improved braking . . . It's the little things . . . H.G.Wells