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Any W211's take their cars out on the road course?
hey guys, i'm looking to prep my car for an april track day at laguna seca and was wondering what types of configuration you all run and which has been successful.
here is my setup
e63 amg
factory airmatic, recalibrated and realigned by mercedes
390mm front brake upgrade
carbotech xp12 pads
19x9.5 and 19x11 inch rotary forged wheels
toyo r888r 265/30-19 and 295/30-19
wavetrak lsd
eightysixtuned 91 octane hammer tune for 1 to 1 throttle pedal to throttle body mapping
i feel that i may run into tire clearance issues, but being as the tires i plan to run have a smaller rolling diameter i'll effectively have a bit more clearance and shorter gear ratio as an outcome. i guess we'll have to see once i modify my wheels to fit the spindle and order some tires.
Try put some cooling to the brakes..A vent or scoop directing airflow onto the disc. Every time me and my friends visited the track we've boiled our brake fluid (cls55 and c63 with carbon ceramic) so probably best to make sure it's had a flush. Check the compatibility but I used castrol srf fluid which has one of the best high boiling point on the market in my cls55.
Coilovers might help a good bit. I took my E55 to Nordschleife last year, not to race but just to enjoy a Touristenfahrt. The airmatic did perform better than i suspected (mine is lowered about 25mm) but you can feel, how it feels a bit sluggish. I'm not that big or heavy, so another issue for me personally was, i had to keep my body under tension the whole drive, cause i'd kind of slide around the leather seats in corners. The 390mm brakes will help alot, since they handle the heat better. For additional cooling you can mount the AMG GT 4 door brake cool vents (A290 421 21 00 and A290 421 22 00). You might need to shave off a little bit material on them, so they have clearance to the ball joint.
do you have any negative thoughts on running 25mm lower. when I've driven with my lowering module setup with my car lowered, I felt as though I was out of the shocks optimal stroke range and the suspension felt floaty during transitions. since then, I've never ran lower than the factory sport 2 spec.
ah, thanks for the photo. my car is lower than yours as is. i just had my airmatic suspension recalibrated at my local mercedes benz dealership and after it came back about 1 inch lower and looks to be lower than yours for sure. was calibrated on my 20's so maybe that has something to do with it.
Sorry guys, the picture off the brake cooling isn't from my car. I will add the cooling to mine though later this year, when i upgrade to 380mm brakes. The "shovel" is just tied to the the control arm and redirects air to the disc, simple solution.
Sorry guys, the picture off the brake cooling isn't from my car. I will add the cooling to mine though later this year, when i upgrade to 380mm brakes. The "shovel" is just tied to the the control arm and redirects air to the disc, simple solution.
thanks UncleBenz55, do you know if we need to tie wrap to the control arm or if itself is self retaining?
I slacked off and didn't think they wouldn't be available in America. Anyway, 7-10 days and they'll be here from Germany. Won't have them on for this track day. Both part numbers have been updated as well. Thanks for sharing!
AMG GT 4 door brake air deflectors.
And for those of you who were browsing this thread, I have setup my alignment specs as listed below.
Sport 2 HeightFront and Rear Toe =0
Front Camber = negative 3.0-3.3
Rear Camber = negative 2.0-2.2
These are the alignment settings I most utilize for all of my cars and race cars as a solid starting point. Cornering speed is greatly improved.
I slacked off and didn't think they wouldn't be available in America. Anyway, 7-10 days and they'll be here from Germany. Won't have them on for this track day. Both part numbers have been updated as well. Thanks for sharing!
AMG GT 4 door brake air deflectors.
And for those of you who were browsing this thread, I have setup my alignment specs as listed below.
Sport 2 HeightFront and Rear Toe =0
Front Camber = negative 3.0-3.3
Rear Camber = negative 2.0-2.2
These are the alignment settings I most utilize for all of my cars and race cars as a solid starting point. Cornering speed is greatly improved.
get ready to do some trimming. On my car if you do full turn they get sandwiches in between the control arm and the inner bead of the wheel. Ended taking them off for DD.
Really good idea. I see you also have lightweight rotor hubs. I've non aggressively cruised around the Nordschleife. Where are you in RLP, I have a home in Niederheimbach.
get ready to do some trimming. On my car if you do full turn they get sandwiches in between the control arm and the inner bead of the wheel. Ended taking them off for DD.
any idea if trimming is possible to keep them on full time?
right now i'm running into issues with the Toyo R888r 295/30-19's BARELY fitting under the fenders. I feel like I need to roll my drivers side rear fender a bit more as they'll come into contact with the rear fenders at full load. my fenders are already rolled and pulled, but I may need to see if I can get anymore out of the fender. I do have to say...without getting under the car, there is absolutely no way to fit any more tire under the car. as is these tires are sitting wider than they really are and when the car is lifted the tire touches the inner fender liner. I literally have to tighten the wheel on with some help as the tire was coming into contact with some plastic preventing the wheel from sitting flush on the hub. once the wheel is on and the car on the tarmac, there is maybe 3-5mm of clearance at the smallest point of clearance of the inner fender plastic liner.
Really good idea. I see you also have lightweight rotor hubs. I've non aggressively cruised around the Nordschleife. Where are you in RLP, I have a home in Niederheimbach.
I'm about 35km from the ring (Kreis Ahrweiler) 👌
The picture of the brake duct wasn't from my car. Mine is still on the 360 single piece disc. I do have the 380mm adapter here, so I'll be going to the two piece 380mm disc in summer. I've only done casual Touristenfahrt as well, no hard limit driving on the ring.
latest update...265/35-19 and 295/30-19 Toyo R888R tires do not fit. i can get the 295 rears to fit if i am able to pull the drivers side fender a few mm, which may or may not be possible. even with that, the rear tires come into contact with the inner fender liner when the vehicle is lifted. so much that the wheels are impossible to install without a second set of hands. once the vehicle is lowered to the tarmac, there is maybe 3-5mm of inner clearance and with my rolled rear fenders barely any clearance to the outside fender. drivers side rubs. as far as the fronts i am coming into contact with the arm that goes from the spindle to the upper control arm. with a 255 tire i may get away with it. i'm currently on a 19x9.5 front and the 265/35-19 bulges slightly over. a 10inch wide front wheel may help but also may come into contact with the outer fender which is a huge possibility. that being said, the Toyo R888R tires fit wider than street tires (about 10mm more) and their height is a hair shorter than street tires as well. i guess i was being greedy.
so currently at a loss on if i should downsize both front and rear tires to a 255 and 285 or not. but as it stands i may try to cancel this track outing as i don't have the urge or excitement to do a track day on Falken FK501's. my street tires are 255/30-20 and 285/30-20 on 20x9 and 20x10.5
Yeah a semi slick builds a bit fatter than a street tire. I'd go with 275 to be safe, I'm pretty sure a 285 888R would rub on track. For front 245 might fit.
Another thing I'd highly recommend for track is having the oil temp showing on the instrument cluster.
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