Shawn Lundin

Has anyone replaced the rear main seal or had the dealership replace? Wondering the cost at dealership and if you need a special tool to seat the new seal? Thanks

Yuille36

I have never had this done. But having it done at a dealership, will not be cheap. Just the labor alone will kill your wallet.

bbirdwell

Special tool and special sealant. I'll see if I can find it in my library.

Shawn Lundin

thanks

E63007

Starting back in May during COVID I just did my 2007 E63 Rear Main Seal which was the final straw to cause me to redo most everything from there to the rear ( driveshaft discs, gear shifter bushings, transmission valve body clean, new “black” series tranny mount, subframe bushings, new rear torque arms and bush in rear carriers, K-Mac replacement bushings for Camber & Radius Arms (8), UPD Adjustable Toe Arms, Hubs, Rotors, Pads and 3.06 Gears from a Challenger SRT8 Diff installed to replace my 2.82 gearing in my Diff). You’ll need long extensions the entire length of the tyranny+ as your head will be back there in order to see the bolts at 10 through 2 o’clock. The bolts securing the Tranny to the Engine are NOT Torque to yield and therefore Can be reused. The bolts securing the torque converter to the flywheel as well as the flywheel “Cap” Bolts all need to be replaced as they are torque to yield. You’ll want to drain the Torque Converter by rotating the engine from the crank until you see it’s drain screw. In order to remove this screw you may have to remove the Tranny Oil lines first as they may be in the way. Be sure to plug those holes! Drain the TC and then remove the bolts securing it to the flywheel. Also make obvious marks to allow yourself to repeat the routing of the engine harness along the passenger side as well as for the 4 O2 sensors on the exhaust and where they all plug into! I use those “paint” type markers that you have to shake as they have a little ball in the pen to mix the paint. They keep their color on any surface and work great! You’ll also need to remove the Drive Shaft Disc and separate it with a lever. After dropping the tranny ( you’ll need to get the car up high enough to clear the tranny once you drop it taking into account the clearance added for the tranny lift itself. The front of my car was higher and I was able to feed the tranny out the front wheel well.) Then you remove the flywheel and behind that is a disc that separates it from the crank. Don’t loose this! After that you’ll see the Rear Main Seal. Take a drill with a small bit and drill out a hole in the metal radius of the seal so that you can screw into that hole a wood screw to enable you to lever the Rear Main out of its location. Do NOT try using a screwdriver to pry it out! I used the OEM Tool to install the new seal but first cleaned out the area it rested in and then greased the inside circle of the seal and used some Mercedes RTV on the outside edge. The tool enables you to seat it perfectly! Install is reverse of what is mentioned.

However, make sure you fill up your TC before install. You’ll notice it only fills halfway up before it leaks through its circulation hole inside the inner flange through which it rides on the trans shaft. When you mount it back onto the tranny, be sure that it’s clocked correctly on the teeth as if your off one notch, it will not return all the way. I’m fairly certain the hole that enables circulation of tranny fluid lines up perfectly as a result of proper fitting. Moreover, of you don’t get it right, it won’t recede enough and you’ll be unable to mount it back properly, so be sure to get this right! I hope this helps!

Shawn Lundin

thanks, thinking I may have the dealer handle this, they said 9 hrs labor, so not too bad

W126AMG

@E63007 Did you make any changes to your front suspension - upper control arms to change the front wheel camber? The front camber just eats the inside edge of the tires on my 09 E63, despite being squarely within spec from an alignment standpoint.

E63007

Yes I did. When I bought my car in 2017 it had a hard pull to the right, so I replaced the front torque arms as well as added F1 Fabrication Upper Camber Control Arms to fine tune things after correcting the positioning of all the semi-adjustable “crash” bolts in the Torque and air spring arms. I also had my AirSprings Arms rebuilt by RMT, so while the AirSprings were out, adding the F1 Fabrication Upper Control Arms was a no brainer! I actually spent $700 in an effort to get my car aligned paying by the hour and the “guru engineer” over there was so deep in the woods he had to call another technician of his on the phone to help and still never was able to get it even close to being right! Unbelievable, right!

After downloading the very useful “Crashbolt” Alignment Chart somewhere on this forum, I found that what that “guru engineer” did was the exact opposite of what needed to be done! That Alignment Chart gives you precise detail as to what to correct for, but in my case, I had to adjust things to the max and then some by fiddling with the Upper Camber Arms to finally dial things in! Just be aware that any adjustment made one way or another (ie-towards Passenger-vs- Driver side) will definitely require further adjustment in your steering rack in order to keep your steering wheel dead straight! Even 1 turn of the F1 upper Hiem Joint either way will effect the steering wheel!