Remnar

Looks like I have a bad case of brake line rot. It's not pretty, both lines going to the rear brakes have lost integrity. I didn't see any threads on the best approach on replacement.

Any suggestions to repair? Does anyone supply pre-bent like kits or just splice-in copper/nickel line and call it a day.

And I will probably have to address the fuel line as well, as it doesn't look the greatest

kevm14

Damn, where are you located? I was hoping these cars would be pretty impervious to this kind of thing...

Remnar

It's got 207k miles on the beast, and it was originally purchased in Atlanta,

But I live in the Dayton Ohio area and have driven it in the winter, so that probably didn't help...

cdk4219

If you decide to splice, make sure to use the steel compression fittings not the brass.

machild

You have some options. MB still offers replacement lines and the fittings individually also for your car. If your fittings are not suitable for re-use, then you can buy the fittings from MB and buy bulk copper/nickle lines. They will not corrode and are super easy to bend by hand. I have done the all the lines on several GM veilces because they have crap lines and fail within minutes of the warranty expires. Good luck.

Dokus

I would not use the oem lines if you have no previous experience working brake lines. They are expensive and you only get one shot.

Get brass/nickel lines, fittings and the hand tool for your specific size of line and flare. That would be the easiest or you can get the big tool for all your line needs.

If you what to make some nice lines I recommend you get a brake line straighter. Links below. You also need mb star to bleed brakes.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/22034033277?iid=332827759059

https://www.eastwood.com/professiona...ring-tool.html

https://www.frost.co.uk/coiled-tube-...g-tool-316-od/

​​​​​​​I think it's 4,75 din flare. Double check size. Mb star is Mercedes diagnostic computer

Remnar

Yes, I have decided that I am going to splice-in the nickel lines. Definitely easier than full OEM replacement and it gets pretty complicated forward of the bell housing. Since the primary failure was wear at the frame mounts, I don't expect much corrosion above the frame (fingers crossed).

I replaced my 01 GM truck lines a while back with pre-bent stainless. It was a job, the original lines were just crap. Although, one advantage is that the market for those replacement lines was huge and at the time Summit Racing was selling 2,000 sets a day. It made the cost reasonable.

As for the line straightener, my 3d printer goes brrrr as we speak. Thingaverse is a glorious resource.

I have also ordered a set of Stoptech Stainless Brake Hoses, the ones on the car don't look that great. Figured it's the right time since I have to bleed the entire system anyway.

Lastly, I have a motive bleeder and a Star system, so once if repair the current waterfall, I am hoping for smooth sailing. That said, I have an MGB, so I also know the frustration of hydraulics.

Dokus

Sounds like you're all set. I really recommend the handheld flare tool for doing flares on the car. Super easy.

Remnar

I picked up the Titan Double Flare tool. Hope it's as good as the reviews....

Remnar

Replaced the brake lines this weekend. Spliced in as lines just before going up the firewall. It's pretty messy bending after that point. The job was not horrible, just takes the original lines as a template and patience to make sure the bends on in the correct direction. Every rocker mounting point was close to failure.

Tools I used:

25' of 3/16" Nickel/Copper brake line
Tubing straightener (Eastwood version)
Bubble Flare Tool (OTC Tool kit))
Harbor Freight tubing bender (blue version $8, worked great)
Motive Power Bleeder
Star System to run system bleeding


I have to say, I was quite surprised by the amount of brake fluid required to bleed the system. The Star system tells you that start with a bleeder with at least 3l of capacity. If you don't get it correct the first time, better find a good source of fluid...

Thanks for the advice and support.

Cheers,

Remnar