Rafichicago

So as in title. I am replacing sway bar in my E63 Wagon. I’ve replaced all of the suspension components except for one front strut and upper control arms. It’s the only thing that seems to be making noise up front. As far as I can see by looking under the car subframe has to be lowered in order to remove it. Great design but it is what it is. Has anyone done it ? There doesn’t seem to be too much info on that matter online. Is releasing pressure from front struts necessary? Does anyone have any diy instructions or some links ? I couldn’t find much except for some description by someone that done it on his E55. Not sure how different it is in E63 if at all. Thing is that bushings are glued in into the stabilizer bar so it needs to be replaced as a whole assembly.

E63007

I have a 2007 E63 Sedan and in order to remove/replace the front SwayBar Bushings, one would need to suspend the engine from above or somehow below, and yes, you would have to release air from the suspension and disco the front AirStruts from the Control Arm and because the SwayBar Bushings are mounted in between the front Subframe and the body, the entire Front Subframe would then need to be lowered. If your going to go that far, it would be a very good time to remove and reseal that upper Oil Pan, while you have access, because sooner or later it will leak! And, if your in there Hachiroku has a write up on the Oil Pickup that is worth a read! Because of that feeble connection, it lead to a catastrophic failure, but he is regularly racing his M156 Beast! Nevertheless, it would be worth beefing up that connection while your in there!

Rafichicago

Thank you for response. Does anyone know torque specs for front and rear subframe bolts ?
I have successfully replace sway bar now. I am putting everything back together. I have engine bar so it makes it all possible. Obviously alignment has to be done afterwards. Subframe doesn’t have to be dropped completely. About two inches from the frame it bolts on. This gives enough clearance to remove it and to instal new one in. It comes out to the front. Some wiggle and it comes out. Hope it will solve my creaking issue. Everything except for upper control arms had been replaced car is at 70K miles so not too high. Old bushings were not cracked. They look much thinner kind of pressed together much more than the new ones. All in all not horrible job. Pretty straightforward. There’s small 8mm bolt that holds bracket in front of bar on drivers side that has to be removed to release tension on one of the hoses and 13mm bolt needs to be removed above catalytic converter on driver side from steering shaft. I am going back to garage in about 15 to put this together.

Rafichicago

So it’s done. All in about 4 hrs total without lift,
in the garage. If one tries to approach this task. My symptoms were that when car starts moving forward from standstill, front end lifts up slightly. This caused creaking sound. Sort of like wooden ship type of sound if you know what I mean. Every time when accelerating. Again. Bushes itself are not replaceable. They come as assembly glued to the stabilizer bar. Easy to see when you have both side by side. So if you happen to have symptoms like mine this will probable a culprit. Have a good weekend everyone.

Sandygear

I will be replacing the sway bar on my car and I will probably just drill a hole to get access to the bolt. The front half of that subframe only supports the radiator and bumper area. Not really critical.

E63007

I’m not sure what your referring to when you say “The front half of that subframe only supports the radiator and bumper area. Not really critical.” ? On my 2007 E63, the front subframe supports not only the radiator, but it also has the Engine Mounts, so supporting the wieight of the engine from the above would be preferred. It also both has the Sway Bar Bushing Mount, more easily seen from above Passenger Side, otherwise clearly seen from below, but the Subframe itself also Sandwiches that Bushing between that Subframe and the Frame of the car itself. And because the Steering Rack bolts to the bottom of the engine, and therefore the engine is not to move, I don’t see why one would need to remove the bolt connecting the steering spindle midway unless of course the steering Toe Links are in the way of dropping the Subframe? The front Torque Arms also mount to the Front Subframe, but since they also mount to the wheel carrier, that subframe would in essence be supported by the Torque Arms when the Subframe bolts are released. Of course the Sway Bar Drop links would need to be disco’d too! One should be able to drop the subframe to gain access to those Sway Bar Bushings in this manner. However, I’m not sure if one could also remove the Upper Oil Pan without removal/disco of the Air Spring Arms and those Torque Arms to gain enough clearance for removal?

Rafichicago

I have removed that steering shaft bolt per mechanic’s recommendation. I have not disconnected anything else other than I described before. All in all really not too bad of a job. Engine support bar is about $90 from harbor freight, and I highly recommend to have it than support 300KG engine with everything else attached to it And not at the oil pan. Not mentioning that there will be much more room underneath to work with. I wouldn’t butcher anything under the car to try to get to the bolt that is otherwise not accessible. Even than there may not be enough room to take the bar out. All in all I am happy it’s done. Car handles noticeably better and annoying sound is gone.

Sandygear

In front of the front subframe, there is a bracket that is in the way of the sway bar bolts. Here is a video explaining.