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I have had a low wiper fluid warning for a few months that I didn't want to deal with. It was actually a piece of cake. Order all the parts that you don't need (see below). Remove left wheel. The leak was coming from this crappy 90 degree plastic fitting that slides onto the wiper pump. The internal seal isn't the best design. I replaced the wiper pump anyway since they are so cheap (thank you non-AMG w211's) and a new seal for that and also the white headlight washer pump that I have never used even once. I bought a bung in case the tank had another sealed hole for other accessories that weren't present, didn't need it. Anyway I got some very tight fitting vacuum hose and a connector to bypass this fitting. Problem solved.
I made sure the vac line didn't touch the body and despite looking like a mandrel bend, there is no lack of flow or pressure at the nozzles.
Also been putting this job off as well. I have done it twice before on a M112 and M113 so wasn't looking forward to the cleaning. Figured might as well do it before the rear main seal is replaced as the RMS will fail again if the breather holes are blocked. Order two oil cap seals to replace both the cap and the filler neck on the breather cover. These are usually leaking by this age too. You can also buy a whole new filler neck if need be, they aren't expensive. I only use genuine mercedes for the cover gaskets, they are cheap enough but there were issues with some of the aftermarket brands in the past. Torque is 9Nm for valve cover, 4Nm (I used 5 as that is my lowest torque wrench) for the breather covers, 8Nm for the coil packs. Don't reuse the aluminum bolts, get stainless M5, 16mm long.
For some reason I have replaced this centre cap about 3 times and they keep going black. Only this one, the others are probably the factory originals.
I also replaced the power steering reservoir as they updated the filter in it I believe and my PS was groaning despite adequate fluid. I sucked out the old fluid with a syinge and vac hose on the end. I measured out how much was removed but still managed to overflow it everywhere when refilling. Anyway it is an easy job, there is one large clip to pry out with a small screwdriver. There is one E10 bolt somewhere under the oil filter housing. and a single hose. It slides out towards the radiator quite a long way. To bleed run the steering from lock to lock 30 times. I had the car up on jackstands for this. I did it with the car off to start and then finally with engine running. Reservoir 000-460-01-83-MBZ, seal that goes inside reservoir Part #: 000-466-18-80-MBZ, clip that holds it on Part #: 000-994-19-03-M22. I suggest trying a dry run install of the reservoir first before putting the seal in. It is quite tight. I put the seal on the metal pipe and used some PS fluid to lube it up otherwise I doubt it will go on very easily.
And sometimes it is just the small things. This silver trim was missing since I bought the car but once the ashtry started hanging open it was too hard to ignore.
Once the nylon cord broke it was also game over for the fuel cap. I suggest OEM only as the fuel system can be very sensitive to pressure.
Job well done, when I did the rocker cover gaskets earlier this year (for the first time, i've only owned it since april '22), I wasnt aware of the gaskets for the filler neck, so I will have to do that again someday. Also I bought febi bilstein gaskets, which didnt seal all that well. Replaced them with Viktor Reinz gaskets, which hold up nicely. I will never again use febi bilstein for gaskets (all other stuff seems fine)
Job well done, when I did the rocker cover gaskets earlier this year (for the first time, i've only owned it since april '22), I wasnt aware of the gaskets for the filler neck, so I will have to do that again someday. Also I bought febi bilstein gaskets, which didnt seal all that well. Replaced them with Viktor Reinz gaskets, which hold up nicely. I will never again use febi bilstein for gaskets (all other stuff seems fine)
Viktor reinz was one of the guaranteed to leak ones but that was years ago, they would have fixed the issue. The filler neck attaches to the valve cover in the exact same way as the filler cap. Just turn, might need a screw driver to pry it over the notch it locks in to.
Viktor reinz was one of the guaranteed to leak ones but that was years ago, they would have fixed the issue. The filler neck attaches to the valve cover in the exact same way as the filler cap. Just turn, might need a screw driver to pry it over the notch it locks in to.
Mine had a philips head screw and then it was easy to remove. Unfortunately I found out it had a gasket when I had it all out and I didnt want to wait with sealing up the breather cover...
Final installment. I tried to be careful and I knew this was a common issue but still managed to pull this line out. No codes but it just felt different. I even replaced my broken inspection mirror but you cannot see or touch this line no matter what you try without taking the surge tank cover off. There were no gaskets available in my entire country so I had to reuse it. Be very careful with the torque of the surge tank bolts. They are supposed to be 20Nm but I have read reports of them destroying the aluminum threads before this. All but one of mine reached 20Nm, I felt it was pulling so stopped early, it will still be applying suffient force but any more and a time sert will be needed, no thanks. I would recommend 12Nm personally for these.
Nice work! I also had an issue with that line, I didnt know what it was and why it was there. Finally found out it was part of evap circuit and where it needed to go. I agree on the surge tank bolts, dont overtighten them
11-12-2022, 08:01 PM
