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The rear has gotten very noisy, I suspect the bushings have aged out so I've been shopping around for control arms. I'll take a look under the car, but I'm preparing to just change everything.
Strange thing is, the AMG-specific part numbers for control arms cost ~3x of the normal W211 set, there are 8 in total to change.
For anyone who's seen both kinds, do you know if there is an actual difference in dimensions between the two types, or is it something else like bushing stiffness or other less-consequential design change?
Chinese brand aftermarket arms are very cheap if you don't care much. i'd just recommend keeping your factory arms around just in case those bushings are made available for purchase.
I know from experience how expensive AMG specific rear control arms are. I did a complete suspension replacement last year.
I thought that I was getting a bargain buying rear suspension parts from Rock Auto. But they didn't fit, although they were labeled for an E63.
But when you compared apples to apples, they weren't the same. So, I had to buy all of the rear control arms from Mercedes.
I know from experience how expensive AMG specific rear control arms are. I did a complete suspension replacement last year.
I thought that I was getting a bargain buying rear suspension parts from Rock Auto. But they didn't fit, although they were labeled for an E63.
But when you compared apples to apples, they weren't the same. So, I had to buy all of the rear control arms from Mercedes.
Appreciate the feedback, this seems to confirm they have different sizes for the lower AMG ride height.
Do yourself a favor and order your suspension parts from a reputable source, like FCP Euro, Pelican Parts, AutohausAZ.
But if they don't have the parts you need, then get them from Mercedes. Not only did I replaced every control arm, ball joint, bushing and wheel bearing.
I also replaced all my air suspension components as well. I wasn't cheap
The benefit that you get from FCP Euro is that your components are warrantied for life. So, say your ball joints fail in the future, FCP Euro has you covered.
But I get where you're coming from, since these components should last for another 10-12 years.
yeah...i've spent roughly 6k in parts and labor in replacing of bushings/arms with new OEM as well as going with K-Mac parts. also all creative steel products.
not fun, but these cars are up in age at this point and need it done.
A few years later I finally completed this work. 10 new control arms, new subframe bushings, new flex disks, new struts, and had the axles rebuilt. Many new bolts and nuts all over.
I did order a few incorrect parts and had extra orders to make while the subframe was out. Indeed the AMG bolts are thicker, but all the control arms seem identical otherwise.
To press the subframe bushings out/in I built a tool using a generic U-bolt, a thick piece of metal, and a large eye bolt. The fronts a liquid-filled which was a surprise, and separated from their metal sleeve during removal. I later cut the sleeve out with a dremel. There is a proper toolkit for this from KTC, specifically to handle the 211/219/230 subframe. $500 if you can find it.
Couldn't press out the 4 bushings holding the diff to the subframe, just left them alone, no play. Same with the two large bushings which connect the subframe to the lower control arms.
Everything is good except the rear toe is so bad its like 4-wheel steering. Not a DIY item so getting that handled today.
A few years later I finally completed this work. 10 new control arms, new subframe bushings, new flex disks, new struts, and had the axles rebuilt. Many new bolts and nuts all over.
I did order a few incorrect parts and had extra orders to make while the subframe was out. Indeed the AMG bolts are thicker, but all the control arms seem identical otherwise.
To press the subframe bushings out/in I built a tool using a generic U-bolt, a thick piece of metal, and a large eye bolt. The fronts a liquid-filled which was a surprise, and separated from their metal sleeve during removal. I later cut the sleeve out with a dremel. There is a proper toolkit for this from KTC, specifically to handle the 211/219/230 subframe. $500 if you can find it.
Couldn't press out the 4 bushings holding the diff to the subframe, just left them alone, no play. Same with the two large bushings which connect the subframe to the lower control arms.
Everything is good except the rear toe is so bad its like 4-wheel steering. Not a DIY item so getting that handled today.
If you have a list of the part numbers including the various hardware that would be very much appreciated as I am in the process of doing the same thing here soon
If you have a list of the part numbers including the various hardware that would be very much appreciated as I am in the process of doing the same thing here soon
Yeah I have a spreadsheet and it includes some aftermarket cross-reference numbers. I also put together a single page document of all relevant tightening torques.
I have a few meetings to get through, but later today I'll bundle it all together and post here, along with a better process which takes into account my various mistakes and regrets along the way.
Yeah I have a spreadsheet and it includes some aftermarket cross-reference numbers. I also put together a single page document of all relevant tightening torques.
I have a few meetings to get through, but later today I'll bundle it all together and post here, along with a better process which takes into account my various mistakes and regrets along the way.
THAT SIR, would be extremely appreciated! Thank you
Larger than normal torx sockets such as T55, T60, E16, E18
12mm hex bit socket
32mm 12-point socket for axle nuts (if removing axles)
Dremel with cutting wheels
Set of large ratcheting wrenches, 21/22/23/24mm. These are excellent, I got a 4-pack which doesn't seem to exist anymore but individual sizes are available (
MB lubricant (long-life grease) for axle spindles: 001989885112
Threadlocker, I'm a big fan of Loctite 248, which is like a chapstick applicator, better than the drippy kind
Penetrating spray for rusty exhaust components, axle spindles, etc
Lifting:
I had the car on a QuickJack, and used a transmission jack to lower/raise/roll the subframe+diff assembly.
IMPORTANT: Place extra support at the front, the car can tip over when the subframe is removed. I anticipated this and it did happen.
Work Process:
Make sure to have as little fuel as possible in the tank, less than 1/4 for sure.
Remove the outer rear underbody panels before lifting the car, some of the 10mm nuts may be unaccessible later. Leaving these on makes it difficult to access the front subframe bolts.
Break the wheel bolts
If you are removing axles:
Find a local shop to rebuild your axles, it is best done with specialized equipment. I got Febi 49889 boot kits but the diameter was slightly too large even though the part numbers matched, best to just let the rebuilder use generic boots.
If you have the older axle style (like my '03) which bolts to a flange, break those bolts first by jacking up each side of the car independently. Doing this later is extremely difficult because the entire assembly will rotate.
Remove wheels
The axle nut at the wheel carrier is crimped in. Cut it with a dremel.
Break axle nuts with an impact wrench OR remove center caps, put wheels back on, lower car, break nuts manually
Removing the axle from the wheel carrier requires a puller tool, usually rentable, I had a kit for axle & ball joint separation which worked great. Helps to spray some penetrating lubricant first.
If you have air suspension:
Drain air from the rear springs using DAS
Lift the car
Remove the exhaust, it is very heavy so be prepared to support it or have a helper on hand. I found it easier to remove the hanger nuts than to separate it from the hangers.
Label the position of the transaxle at both ends and in the middle where the halfs connect. MB says that vibration is possible if not installed in the same position. I failed to do this, but so far no vibration thankfully.
Put the car in Neutral. Don't do this with the key, instead lift the shifter panel, press the small lever at the back to unlock it, and shift it to Neutral.
Removing transaxle:
Remove shielding which protects the transaxle center bracket
Remove the nuts and bolts holding the diff-side flex disk to the transaxle, keep one inserted so that it doesn't fall
Unbolt the center bracket and remove the rear half of the transaxle
If replacing the front flex disk:
Support the transmission
Remove the transmission mount with support bracket
Remove the front half of the transaxle same way as the rear half
Place the transmission mount and support bracket back for safety, no need to torque until full assembly
Lowering subframe:
Remove wheels
Remove wheel well liners
Deactivate SBC with DAS
Remove calipers; MB says to remove them entirely, but they can be left to hang with a ziptie on one of the studs which hold the liner
Remove brake wear sensor from caliper
Unclip electrical connectors at the front of the wheel well on both sides (left: airmatic, speed sensor; right: airmatic, brake sensor, speed sensor)
Remove rubber hose between the fuel filler neck and the gas tank, seal the gas tank with something appropriate
Remove side paneling in the trunk
Remove upper nuts of rear struts
Disconnect air and electric lines from air springs
Unbolt and remove struts
Unbolt and remove air springs
At the rear of the subframe:
Remove the air line at the splitter
Disconnect the 6-pin harness for air springs
Remove shielding to reveal the parking brake connector
Remove parking brake cables from the connector
Support the subframe & differential
Remove the 4 bolts holding the subframe to the body
Lower and remove the subframe carefully, move slowly and don't let it tip over
Set the entire assembly on stable supports, such as jack stands under the four large bushings
At this point everything is accessible to service. Assembly is the reverse of what's above.
A few other notes:
All components should only be torqued when the axle is horizontal, you can get a magnetic level to attach to the axle and jack up each wheel carrier to level it.
Try to mark the rear track rod position prior to replacing it, this might help preserve rear toe alignment, but most likely this is pointless and you'll want an alignment anyway.
The E55 rear sway bar is discontinued, the E63 version is 2mm thicker and can be found new or used. The bushings are not servicable as far as I can tell.
All nuts should be replaced on the control arms, sway bar and links, struts and springs, flex disk. Depending on where you get it, flex disk may come with new nuts and bolts.
Subframe-Body bushings:
There is a special toolkit for these monsters, expensive and difficult to find. I built a tool using a U-Bolt, and Eye Bolt, and drilled a thick piece of metal to fit them. This let me turn the Eye Bolt and slowly have it shove the bushing towards the U-Bolt.
I applied the same MB long-life grease on new bushings to make installation easier.
The front bushings are liquid-filled and have a metal sleeve. Mine separated when getting pressed out and made a mess, the sleeves could then be removed by cutting with a dremel.
Front SubframeBody bolts have a washer which should specifically align with the shape of the bushing, check during installation
The level sensor link is probably rotten and falling apart, plan to replace it
These are metal on metal bushings, and for me could not be budged. Unless you can arrange for a shop with hydraulic equipment and proper adapters to swap these for you, don't bother. I have them all, PM me if you want to buy the set:
2 holding the diff to the subframe
2 holding the diff carrier to the subframe
2 holding the control arm to the subframe
2 holding the wheel carrier to the thrust arm
Parts (check your car in EPC as needed, these were applicable to my 2003 E55):
2x Flex disk (if replacing): A0004110600, Vaico V3018140
2x Subframe to floor bushing, front: A2113511442, Vaico V307349
2x Subframe to floor bushing, rear: A2303511642 (all aftermarket versions are out of stock, don't bother)
2x Subframe to diff bushing: A2113511142, Vaico V307472
2x Subframe to diff carrier bushing: A2303511442, Vaico V300010
2x Subframe to control arm bushing: A2223520865, Febi 22446
4x Subframe to body bolts: A0029907422
2x Thrust arm (bottom front): A2113502606
2x Control arm / Handle bar (bottom center): A2113500306
1x Track rod left (bottom rear): A2303500329
1x Track rod right (bottom rear): A2303500429
1x Tension rod left (top front): A2113503106
1x Tension rod right (top front): A2113503206
1x Camber arm left (top rear): A2113502906
1x Camber arm right (top rear): A2113503006
1x Sway bar (21mm version): A2113202911
1x Level sensor link: A2113203289
14x m14x1.5 nuts: N913023014003
6x m12x1.5 nuts: N000000003276
2x axle collar nuts: A0003531373
1x exhuast sealing ring: A2114920181 (discontinued, found at alleuro.com)
This is gold indeed, thanks for posting all the detail! I am in the middle of doing the same refresh, and have run into a couple of snags. First, in the rear subframe, the front bushing hole is roughly 67 mm.. It has these strange steel tangs that hold the bushing in, that got pushed up when I extracted the bushing. (Bought the Freedom Racing W211 bushing tool set)
The old bushing when pushed out did deform enough and spewed some espresso-colored fluid. The old bushing has an OD of roughly 67 mm and has these indents in its sides.
So here's the issue: EPC, FCP Euro, Pelican parts, all list these bushings as 211 351 14 42, made by Hutchinson. The ones I bought came from a local wholesale parts supplier, here are pics of the new bushing, which is 77 mm in OD at the midpoint of the bushing where it sits in the subframe.
Old vs new vary in OD by 10 mm:
I spent an hour or so trying to get the new one to start in the subframe, kept going cockeyed and would not start. I think I bent one internally as it got ovalled a bit. So for anyone who's replace these, where'd you get your forward subframe bushings, and how hard were they to install? (The rear bushings, the expensive ones, went in easily.)
You're on the right track, but you only extracted part of the old bushing because it came apart.
That metal liner is a component of it. I cut it diagonally with a dremel and that gave it enough play to bend inward and come out.
Or am I missing the possibility that the old bushing left a metal sleeve behind and that needs to be pushed/cut out of the subframe opening? Don't see any reference to this in any other post on subframe bushings.....
Or am I missing the possibility that the old bushing left a metal sleeve behind and that needs to be pushed/cut out of the subframe opening? Don't see any reference to this in any other post on subframe bushings.....
Yep:
The front bushings are liquid-filled and have a metal sleeve. Mine separated when getting pressed out and made a mess, the sleeves could then be removed by cutting with a dremel.
@mekantor- Got it, thanks! I should have figured that out. Made quite a mess as it separated:
Realization #2 today was that the Vaico set of rear control arms (V30-7630-1) do NOT fit the E63, despite the local parts house's website listing that they do. All the arms are dimensionally the same but the bushings' holes are M10 on this set, vs. M12 on the E63 arms.
Realization #3: All the original control arms' bushings are really in pretty good shape, so I'm not sure they need replacing after all. However, the lower 'V' control arm that captures the wheel carrier, airbag, and lower shock mount's outer bushing is shot. As best I can tell this bushing is not available separately, correct?
Realization #4. Both sides' axle boots are split and spraying on the bag reservoirs. I ordered a pair of new replacement axles (211-350-08-02), one from BuyMercedesParrtsNow and one from Mercedes of Laredo. One was correct, one was incorrect despite both coming in a tube with the correct part number on it. Sigh. One's gotta go back. I am going to take the old axle's to my Porsche shop's rebuilder in Westminster CA to see if they can rebuild (or at least re-boot) these.
@mekantor- Got it, thanks! I should have figured that out. Made quite a mess as it separated:
Realization #2 today was that the Vaico set of rear control arms (V30-7630-1) do NOT fit the E63, despite the local parts house's website listing that they do. All the arms are dimensionally the same but the bushings' holes are M10 on this set, vs. M12 on the E63 arms.
Realization #3: All the original control arms' bushings are really in pretty good shape, so I'm not sure they need replacing after all. However, the lower 'V' control arm that captures the wheel carrier, airbag, and lower shock mount's outer bushing is shot. As best I can tell this bushing is not available separately, correct?
Realization #4. Both sides' axle boots are split and spraying on the bag reservoirs. I ordered a pair of new replacement axles (211-350-08-02), one from BuyMercedesParrtsNow and one from Mercedes of Laredo. One was correct, one was incorrect despite both coming in a tube with the correct part number on it. Sigh. One's gotta go back. I am going to take the old axle's to my Porsche shop's rebuilder in Westminster CA to see if they can rebuild (or at least re-boot) these.
Theres an axle shop I used in Garden Grove, ATDK PARTS
10462 Trask Ave A, Garden Grove, CA 92843, United States
They’re good quality, great price and if you have issues they’ll remedy no problem
LOL, I literally dropped an axle off at ATDK 30 minutes ago to see if they would re-boot it. I'm a long time Porsche guy and have used their rebuilds in the past. From all the talk online I didn't think anyone was able to rebuild the E63 axles but the guy at ATDK didn't bat an eyelash at it.
LOL, I literally dropped an axle off at ATDK 30 minutes ago to see if they would re-boot it. I'm a long time Porsche guy and have used their rebuilds in the past. From all the talk online I didn't think anyone was able to rebuild the E63 axles but the guy at ATDK didn't bat an eyelash at it.
I had to ask him 4 times just to be sure but they did take care of both my rear axles and haven’t had any issues since
"Realization #3: All the original control arms' bushings are really in pretty good shape, so I'm not sure they need replacing after all. However, the lower 'V' control arm that captures the wheel carrier, airbag, and lower shock mount's outer bushing is shot. As best I can tell this bushing is not available separately, correct"
You are correct. It is pressed into the aluminum control arms.
If the rear lower control arms arrive appearing "bent" or not aligned, the two pieces pivot around the outboard bushing. Just rotate until the bolt holes line up.
Also, there is a press bushing in the rear hub where the rear lower control arm outboard bolt goes through. That press bushing clamps on the control arm flexible bushing when you tighten the bolt. It is possible that the new control arm outboard bushing will not fit into the hub until you "pull" that hub bushing out a few thousandths of an inch. Just something to be aware of as I found it frustrating trying to figure out why my new control arms would not fit into the hub.
Last edited by bbirdwell; Jan 26, 2026 at 04:36 PM.
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