I'm replacing my rear air bags as the passenger side is hissing (leak although it does right itself). Because I'm dropping the sub frame I would like to replace the bushings. I believe there are 4? Do the bushings come out with a press, C- Clamp maybe? Easy or difficult?
I am also thinking about replacing the two shocks..Thoughts?

Thanks in advance.

 

They come out with a press type set up. But to replace the bags you do not need to drop the sub frame out at all.

 

"Rear subframe bushings" in Advance Search upper right in the W211 AMG sub-forum will bring up multiple posts.

Here's one of the better ones:
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...oval-tool.html

 

I am going with new OEM Bilsteins so I believe the sub frame needs to come down?
I do want to replace the bushings and it's easier to do that with a dropped sub frame, same with the shocks.

 

Trying to hunt down part numbers for the two differential mount bushings and the the top control arms on the rear sub frame. Schematics don't seem to be clear.
So far;

211-320-12-25-80 Air Bag RR
211-320-13-25-80 Air bag LR
211-328-00-58 Clip (X2)
230-351-16-42 Rear Bushing on rear sub frame (X2)
211-351-14-42 Front Bushing on the rear sub frame (X2)
222-352-08-65 Cross member bushing (X2)

Looking for the upper control arms that are accessible only when the rear sub frame is dropped.
Diff mounts X2.

Debating on shocks, they work fine.

 

I have also done coil over kits along with air bag replacement and never had to drop the sub frame.
Something does not sound right Fountain.

 

Where the air bags Arnott or OEM air bags? I know on the Arnott air bags you don't have to drop the sub frame but on the OEM air bags you do???

 

Correct. OEM, drop sub-frame. Arnott, no drop sub-frame.

 

It has to do with the reservoirs connected to the airbags. Arnott does not use them

 

It was Arnotts so that makes sense then.

 

Anybody have part #'s for the upper control arms that are accessible only when the rear sub frame is dropped?
Diff mounts X2.

 

Found them. The parts are getting a little scarce on some items.

 

Did this a few months ago using creative steel poly inserts and Arnotts, I did not drop the subframe just droop on each side. My 03 car needed differential side seals real bad, now is the time for those if needed. Also the driveshaft center support boot had disintegrated, the bearing was still good so I only cleaned and did the boot.

 

If you are looking for replacement subframe/differential bushings we offer both in polyurethane. We also offer a subframe tool rental that removes the OEM bushings without having to fully drop the subframe. Added bonus, our Spring Sale is going on now through the 15th, which would save you 15% off of the bushings. The tool rental is not included in the Spring Sale.

03-06 MERCEDES E55 AMG POLYURETHANE REAR SUBFRAME BUSHINGS

03-06 MERCEDES E55 AMG POLYURETHANE DIFFERENTIAL BUSHINGS

W211/W219/R230 SUBFRAME RENTAL TOOL

 

I ordered everything from Mercedes earlier today. I could not find the differential bushings from Mercedes so I just ordered those from you. (I did not however get the 15% off when I ordered?)
I know where I will get the front end bushings when I replace the front.

 

I apologize for not adding the coupon code in the original post, I will credit the 15% back to you on your order!

 

Replaced the bags, rear sub frame bushings, links and diff bushings (creative steel).
Not cheap but car rides much better!

 

Nice! Where did you buy the bags and what was the current price?

 

 

The Creative Steel diff bushings are well made and the Mercedes Tech who is a perfectionist said the quality was top notch.

 

CUDOS for you doing the work yourself man! I replaced all my Rear Subframe Bushings back during the CCP Virus Scare which included all those in the Subframe Bracket as well as the Rear Diff Mount Bushes and the one in the wheel carrier opposite the Rear Torque Arms that I bought new. I used K-Mac replacement Polyurethane Bushings for the Upper Control Arms. Make sure to measure with Calipers the Placement of each within the holes of the Arms. Once you’re done, mock up the wheel carrier to all arms with the bolts semi tight (Fully tighten the K-Mac Bushings) to see if there is any binding occurring while moving the Carrier Up and Down. It will be obvious which ones are out of place, and then adjust placement of each Bushing accordingly.

The great thing about the K-Mac’s is you can fully tighten them to spec (90Nm +60*) before installing the Subframe to the car as unlike the OEM Bushings, they don’t bind and hold their position like OEM Bushings do! The WIS states for you to tighten all Arms after compressing suspension (for OEM Bushings, that is) but doing so is impossible because you can’t get a wrench to those upper Arms!

You can see my Diff is removed as I swapped the OEM 2.82 Diff Gears with 3.06 Gears from a 2005-2008 Challenger SRT 300. Notice the shiny new Diff Mount Bushings installed!

My W211 E63 Rear Subframe complete with new Bushings! I installed new OEM Bushings in the Crossframe, Rear Diff Mounts and Wheel Carrier as well.

Underside view of UPD Toe Arm(s) and new Torque Arm(s), new bolts and rebuilt Air Springs

Closeup of the K-Mac Poly Bushings in original Control Arms

UPD Rear Toe Arm Mount painted after welding both separate pieces together.

Money Shot of rear Subframe installed with new Hubs w/70mm MotorSport Lug Extensions, UPD Toe Arms, New Subframe Bushings, Shocks, Rebuilt Air Springs, Painted Dust Shields! Notice all the lower bolts are not tightened as suspension needs to be compressed beforehand!

 

Yea but the KMac bushings will seize up over time. Especially in a car that sees winter conditions. My sons C32 had them and the teeth for the inner bushing chewed through the subframe when it didn’t move independently after moisture got in and corroded the inner sleeve. Almost ate through the steel subframe. The only way to lubricate them is by removing the joint. They are junk

 

I purchased everything I needed and had the dealer do the job. I have and had too much on my plate to do them right now. Thanks for your help when ordering the parts I asked about.

 

I’m not really sure which KMAC Bushings you are talking about and how they could possibly effect the Subframe. As I stated, I used KMAC Poly Bushings to renew the OEM rubber bushings which were in each of my Rear Suspension Upper Control Arms which connect to the Wheel Carrier. If I were to have installed New OEM Arms, then the WIS states for one to exert full weight or otherwise retract the Arms to the level the car would sit at when fully weighted. I actually marked my arms as they were fully weighted before doing my build but when it came to tightening the Top Inner Control Arms which Connect to the Subframe, it’s impossible to do so without entirely dropping the subframe, so the WIS is “Confusing” in this respect to say the least! There might be a special tool to enable one to do this, but it made no difference in my case as with the K-Mac Poly Bushes, one can fully Tighten both ends of the Arms and still easily move the Wheel Carrier up and down without the K-Macs resisting movement, as OEM Rubber normally would! Before fully tightening to threshold, I moderately tightened in order to determine if any of the Control Arms were binding and, if so, adjust the offending bushing position with my hand made Tool (threaded bar, spacers Washers Nuts & K-Mac’s provided Spacer) and retest! Once it was bind free, then I torqued them down to spec before reinstalling the Subframe to the Car!

You may have been referencing K-Mac’s Subframe Bushings, but even if you were, since the Bushings don’t have “teeth” and only connect to the Subframe by using a similar tool as mentioned above and then once installed, then insert a Bolt through the middle to reattach the subframe to the Unibody Frame of the Car? Unless the top of these Poly Subframe bushings which do obviously contact the car in order to provide the requisite cushioning are frozen and perhaps unlike rubber, may turn too hard, this I don’t know. Nevertheless, I used OEM Rubber Bushings for my Subframe Mount Bushings to which I believe you were referring to, not the K-Mac Bushings I used to install in each of the Upper Suspension Control Arms.