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-Calibrate suspension in a higher, not lower position. e.g. 3.5* versus 3.1* front. Rear -1.1* versus -1.5*. Yes, the car sits a bit higher and the fender well gap is larger but I prefer long-lasting tires to low-rider looks. If I could get both I would. From my personal experience, the KMac front bushings were great at trading lower ride height for proper camber; I ended up removing the KMac bushings in the rear because I could never get the nuts tight enough to prevent movement. YMMV with Kevin's newer rear bushing kits. So, the rear of the car may ride high but the front would be lower with better camber and the rake gives the car an aggressive "pouncing cat" look.
-Minimum toe-in.
-Rotate rear tires side-to-side every 5000 miles to account for the passenger side rear tire spinning first because of the open differential.
-Doing the above I have, over multiple sets of Continental DWS06 tires, averaged 34,000 miles front and 30,000 miles rear. Last set of rear tires was only 28,000 miles because I failed to rotate the rear tires properly.
-Pre-emptive replacement of ball joints and bushings. The KMac bushings are significantly better than the stock bushings. The ball joint on the rearward forward control arm will wear out first.
Has anyone found a solution for the terrible tire wear we get on these cars? Outside is about 5-6/32nd, inside completely gone.
Originally Posted by bbirdwell
-Calibrate suspension in a higher, not lower position. e.g. 3.5* versus 3.1* front. Rear -1.1* versus -1.5*. Yes, the car sits a bit higher and the fender well gap is larger but I prefer long-lasting tires to low-rider looks. If I could get both I would. From my personal experience, the KMac front bushings were great at trading lower ride height for proper camber; I ended up removing the KMac bushings in the rear because I could never get the nuts tight enough to prevent movement. YMMV with Kevin's newer rear bushing kits. So, the rear of the car may ride high but the front would be lower with better camber and the rake gives the car an aggressive "pouncing cat" look.
-Minimum toe-in.
-Rotate rear tires side-to-side every 5000 miles to account for the passenger side rear tire spinning first because of the open differential.
-Doing the above I have, over multiple sets of Continental DWS06 tires, averaged 34,000 miles front and 30,000 miles rear. Last set of rear tires was only 28,000 miles because I failed to rotate the rear tires properly.
-Pre-emptive replacement of ball joints and bushings. The KMac bushings are significantly better than the stock bushings. The ball joint on the rearward forward control arm will wear out first.
FWIW and you mileage may vary.
It’s all about resolving “OEM Suspension shortcomings”. At K-MAC we have been doing just that - now in our 61st year !
With cost cutting and ever increasing speed of new car assembly lines Mercedes Benz models Camber and Caster has been deleted (stopping to adjust is no longer an option). Onus now back on owners to fund costly premature tire replacement.
For the W211 - since its inception all including AMG - we have been designing / constantly developing Front Camber and Caster along with Rear Camber (and extra Toe) kits.
Current Front and Rear designs are bullet proof when it comes to mount strength and locking security. Both providing up to 2 degrees extra Camber adjustment (Positive or Negative). Replacing at same time the highest wearing bushings !
Plus now designed to fit without need for special tools - or time consuming need to remove control arms to install.
Both also are precise single wrench / easily accessible to adjust. Ultimate - direct on alignment rack UNDER LOAD.
SEE SPOILER
Spoiler
W211 FRONT LOWER ARM Camber (Only) Bushes #502216-1i $345 (Both Sides) 4MATIC #502416-1i $345 (Both Sides)
(Above kits less cost than 1 Quality tire).
ABOVE “CAMBER & CASTER” KITS - Bushes are Mono Ball / Self aligning. (Replacing also the front ‘4’ highest wearing soft rubber bushes). Allowing arms to still travel through their required suspension arcs but significantly improving Brake & Steering Response !
NOTE: Also manufacture Rear upper Camber arms. Not soft extruded aluminum but high strength chromoly tube. However above rear kits supercede as easier to install and adjust. Plus retain important clearance top of tire to outer fender when wanting to resolve excess inner edge wear. Therefore upper arms only recommend when wanting more / not less Negative Camber !
ALL ABOVE KITS (FRONT & REAR) - Fit without need for control arm removal or special tools.
ALSO MANUFACTURED:
●UPRATED BUSHES FOR THE REAR ‘6’ MULTI LINK ARMS. Tauter response - Less twitch, flex, loss of traction. Especially when applying power to lane change / overtake. #502528K $480 (Both Sides) #502528-1K $480 AMG (Both Sides)
● FRONT UPPER ARM INNER BUSHES Camber & Caster adjustable. #502216-2J $380 (Both Sides) Retain original OEM hi strength forged alloy arms - not welded / fabricated.
For Competition / Track days extra adjustment - and in combination with Lower arm K-MAC bushes completely eliminates soft rubber from front suspension.
DHL Express Air Worldwide $40 one kit ($20 each extra)
The rear kmac bushings I had worked until the inner serrated part of the bushing, (which is designed to dig itself into the subframe so it doesn’t move) got water in it and rusted. At that point the inner serrated part and outer bushing fused together acting as one.
The serrated part now acted like a saw blade and cut through most of the thin rear subframe which is designed for a much larger contact patch. Maybe if they were externally greasable or possibly if the car never was driven in rain or salt. These were old versions, possibly the new ones are different.
Not having OEM / Ex-factory - “Front or Rear Camber adjustment” (even performance AMG models).
To resolve have the actual K-MAC “replacement bush adjuster kit” design in production now for 33 years (1993). Well and truly proven !
Background is the center steel K-MAC bushes are nickel chromed with hardened “end teeth”. Then “external” washers also with hardened teeth.
Have attached “rear” instruction sheet for your 1989 to 2001 R129 SL600 model - showing components.
As highlighted on sheet (and also actual packaging) ESSENTIAL / RECHECK time of alignment nuts are fully tight (80ft/lbs).
THIS ALLOWS TEETH TO “FULLY CLAMP” - SO THAT FRAME AND CENTER BUSH BOTH BECOME ONE INTEGRAL PIECE !
From experience - if not fully clamped - sequence is “movement” resulting in teeth wearing down (preventing re clamping). Along with lock nut teeth also loosening, further allowing water entry / rust !
But we’re not sitting on our hands - constant / ongoing developing (anything and everything can be improved).
Latest upgrades (as above torque tightness extensively highlighted). Along with now fail safe lock system - no matter what tightness nuts can not inadvertently loosen. Elastomer bushes (on polished chrome centers) are graphite impregnated for further inbuilt lubrication.
We have the experience of manufacturing “uprated performance bushings” longer than anyone else (1964).
Looking back over 33 years of manufacture this particular design. The K-MAC bush has shown durability similar to OEM (having more than twice the load bearing / impact area).
Failure as explained above (#5) is directly related to torque setting - at time of wheel alignment.
AUDI to VOLVO - K-MAC Experience Of Resolving OEM Suspension Shortcomings (and Costs) Since 1964 !
Good answer, no warranty on this. It’s not a good design, and it needs to be greasable. Probably works well in Australia, not in the rust belt. Looks like moog makes some uppers that don’t have saw teeth.
Seem to be more cost effective as well.
Warranty - As pointed out - correctly tightened, clamped mounts / not loose - are sealed against water. Proven “33 years of manufacture” - sold / fitted world wide. Comes back to alignment shop - not ensuring both mounts were correctly / fully tightened.
We do specifically set this out on instruction sheet - and then followed up with below leaflet also provided.
Both bushes and polished chrome inserts have spiral grease grooves and are pre lubricated prior to assembling and fully sealing once connected. Also bushes are graphite impregnated.
Re your pic of brand without teeth. Pic shows they have plagiarised our design / helped themselves to our exhaustive research and development - K-MAC Patented design breakthrough. But the result having no teeth “MINIMAL” adjustment - (Simply cannot expect offset bush to maintain security) !
Re your situation - (1999 to 2001 R129 SL600 rear Camber and extra Toe adjuster kit #502026) with align shop causing the pain and suffering.
What is needed complete kit (less bush extraction tool and the Toe adjuster kit). Main chrome hardened steel bushes, Elastomer bushes Mount bolts etc. (Including DHL Express air) $170 - Less than half price.
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