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I’m recently replaced my airmatic system, front and rear shocks and struts, bags, compressor and valve block along with relay but they sent me some wonky no name relay.
I got another one from local Mercedes dealer. The only thing is the one that was in the car is made in Spain. The one I received from the dealer is made in china. Both are 5 prong with a small difference if anyone can confirm
I’m recently replaced my airmatic system, front and rear shocks and struts, bags, compressor and valve block along with relay but they sent me some wonky no name relay.
I got another one from local Mercedes dealer. The only thing is the one that was in the car is made in Spain. The one I received from the dealer is made in china. Both are 5 prong with a small difference if anyone can confirm
New one is on the left. Old on the right
Part number 002 542 23 19 is replaced by MB with 000 982 75 27. While the relay you show in the pic has that new number, we all know that can be put on anything. In the end, it all depends on your provider and if they take the time to confirm their sources of parts. If you want confirmation you should be able to find one at your local MB dealership that you can compare to what you have.
Part number 002 542 23 19 is replaced by MB with 000 982 75 27. While the relay you show in the pic has that new number, we all know that can be put on anything. In the end, it all depends on your provider and if they take the time to confirm their sources of parts. If you want confirmation you should be able to find one at your local MB dealership that you can compare to what you have.
Thanks, the new one I ordered was actually from the local MB dealer but I was surprised that is was a "made in china" version.
@bbirdwell do you happen to have any technical info on the difference or if you know of any reported errors or issues between the 2 different yet same relays?
@bbirdwell do you happen to have any technical info on the difference or if you know of any reported errors or issues between the 2 different yet same relays?
Nothing wrong with stuff manufactured in China - - - as long as it is being manufactured by a quality company. There are a ton of Apple phones made in China that are the state of the art. BUT - its there is another side of the China coin, and it is junk.
Nothing wrong with stuff manufactured in China - - - as long as it is being manufactured by a quality company. There are a ton of Apple phones made in China that are the state of the art. BUT - its there is another side of the China coin, and it is junk.
I totally agree, I bought a vacuum/mop thingy that was made in china and i swear thats the besr damn thing ive ever seen lol
Mercedes relays have been made in china for at least 4 to 5 years that I know of. I bought a battery relay for an r230 about 4 years ago and it was made in china
When you go to China to have a product manufactured, you are asked "how much do you want it to cost?" China can manufacture quality stuff and they can manfacture stuff that's cheaper than the box it's shipped in. It's all a Forest Gump gambit.
the “new” compressor stopped working. Ordered Wabco OEM and going to install later today. Also going to check fuse under passenger floor board once I figure out what fuse it is lol
Time to experiment. Put your car on a level surface; garage will work. In Xentry go to: modules/chassis/airmatic/initial startup/ initial startup with manual input
Raise each front corner to 27" concrete floor to fender roll. Raise rear of car to 27" floor to fender roll (might be 1/4" or 1/2" difference side-to-side; if so ignore for now). Ensure sensor voltages are within range (values shown on same screen).
Go to next screen and enter inclination angles; 3.2 for left front, 3.2 for right front, -1.1 for the rear axles. Press "save". Should indicate recalibration successful
Car should hold that ride height as the sensor voltages and inclination angles are programmed into memory in the Airmatic module.
I found replacing any part in the suspension requires recalibration. Each corner affects the others. Just raising or lowering the car will be overridden by the last calibrated values which will be incorrect for the new components.
After, go to "vehicle level" to verify all is still good. All level sensors should be 0mm +/- 3mm. Again, one corner can adversely affect the others.
Let us know how it works.
Last edited by bbirdwell; Mar 15, 2026 at 08:45 PM.
Also, raise each corner to around 8 Bar or a bit higher. Cycle around each corner monitoring pressure. If one strut or spring has a leak, you can literally watch the pressure readout drop on that corner but the others will stay stable. If all indicate a pressure drop as you cycle through them, you have a leak at an air line connection or junction that manifests when you readout any of the corners.
Each corner is a closed system until you read out its pressure. At that time the corner valve opens the corner to the interconnected pneumatic system.
Current statues of this shenanigans even though everything is plugged in (I’m assuming the “OPEN CIRCUIT” means something IS NOT plugged in) I’m lost now, compressor won’t fully turn on, kicks in for 1 second literally then cuts off whenever I try to manually adjust the ride height
"open circuit" equals no connectivity. Just went through this with HemiAlex. Usually bent/broken pins on rear air springs; very easy to damage those pins. Less likely is disconnected/damaged/broken "Y" electrical connector on rear subframe that splits the harness to connect each air spring. (Located just above the air line junction block.)
Pull connector and use borescope or camera to inspect pins.
I cannot speak to the air compressor yet; would need additional information and diagnostics.
Be advised if it is the rear harness, MBUSA shows that part as No Longer Available. Not quite true as there are still eight remaining in Germany. I ordered a couple of them a week and a half ago and expect them to arrive this week
Edit: if you have been connecting/disconnecting at the Airmatic module under the floor, the break in the circuit could be there.
Last edited by bbirdwell; Mar 16, 2026 at 06:27 PM.
"open circuit" equals no connectivity. Just went through this with HemiAlex. Usually bent/broken pins on rear air springs; very easy to damage those pins. Less likely is disconnected/damaged/broken "Y" electrical connector on rear subframe that splits the harness to connect each air spring. (Located just above the air line junction block.)
Pull connector and use borescope or camera to inspect pins.
I cannot speak to the air compressor yet; would need additional information and diagnostics.
Be advised if it is the rear harness, MBUSA shows that part as No Longer Available. Not quite true as there are still eight remaining in Germany. I ordered a couple of them a week and a half ago and expect them to arrive this week
can you DM part number and link to purchase please? Also if you have photo of the “Y” connector you’re referring that would be a GREAT help
I did not even touch the module I just replaced the 40A fuse
I'm on the road so it will be a couple of days before I can get access to the schematics. FWIW, I will be looking at anything powered off that 40-amp fuse just to get an idea of what is in there.
I'm on the road so it will be a couple of days before I can get access to the schematics. FWIW, I will be looking at anything powered off that 40-amp fuse just to get an idea of what is in there.
Whats really confusing me is that the dash is saying “Stop, car too low” but the airmatic seems to be holding air and the vehicle is not slammed to the ground. I’m thinking it could be level sensor or ride height sensor
Recalibrate. Today's sensor voltages are incorrect compared to the previously programmed values so the car sits too low. If the sensor voltages are too far out of acceptable range (shown in the sub-menu I posted above) the instrument cluster throws an error message.
As a rule of thumb, you should have at least 26" height from floor to fender rolls. That should put front at 3.1* inclination angle and -1.7* camber (interpolated recommended ride height from Xentry and WIS SAS calibration versus alignment specs) assuming slotted control and thrust arm bolts are in neutral position. Sensor voltages should be just within acceptable range.
In the rear that height will put you around -1.5* or greater inclination angle and -2.1* or greater camber. Again, sensor voltages should be just within acceptable range.
Values will vary slightly by vehicle depending upon age and wear.
Recalibrate. Today's sensor voltages are incorrect compared to the previously programmed values so the car sits too low. If the sensor voltages are too far out of acceptable range (shown in the sub-menu I posted above) the instrument cluster throws an error message.
As a rule of thumb, you should have at least 26" height from floor to fender rolls. That should put front at 3.1* inclination angle and -1.7* camber (interpolated recommended ride height from Xentry and WIS SAS calibration versus alignment specs) assuming slotted control and thrust arm bolts are in neutral position. Sensor voltages should be just within acceptable range.
In the rear that height will put you around -1.5* or greater inclination angle and -2.1* or greater camber. Again, sensor voltages should be just within acceptable range.
Values will vary slightly by vehicle depending upon age and wear.
I tried to change the values, not sure if I’m doing it incorrectly, waiting on @BenzNinja USA to assist
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