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Hi All, Do you guys have the part number for the M113K supercharger bypass valve and know where I can get one? The wiring connector is totally messed up and can't get the wiring harness seated correctly. Wondering if I can find just a new bypass valve, or if you guys have another way to fix that. Please let me know. Thank you!
@Majorkook
I have a pair of them on the shelf in my garage. One of them needs the sacrificial cable replaced (I have the cable, just have not done the work). Rebuilt bypass valves can be purchased on Ebay except there they are called "supercharger throttle body".
If you can't find one available, PM me and I'll let you know what I have on the shelf. EDIT: I have two each on the shelf.
Verify your part number on "nemigaparts.com".
FWIW, this is what I purchased back in January:
03-08 Mercedes W215 CL55 E55 SL55 AMG M113K Throttle Body 1131500028
US $189.99US $189.99 Sun, Jan 11, 12:37 PM
On the m113k Facebook group, someone told me that the Supercharger Throttle body for the C230 is interchangeable. 03-05 Mercedes W203 C230 1.8L Supercharger Throttle Body Valve 1110980109 OEM. These parts are also inexpensive, although used.
I'm tempted to get the used ones. Unfortunately, my mechanic already put the valve back in the car so I wasn't able to check the part number on the actual unit, but here are the pics of it.
I would purchase one from a model using the supercharged V8 ...CL55, E55, CLS55, SL55 etc.
Later versions added a plastic cover epoxied into place. Early versions had an exposed metal cover. I have one of each on my shelf. One came off my car; it works fine but I discovered the sacrificial cable with a bad connector was epoxied into place. I am going to use methylin chloride to remove the epoxy and install a new cable. The sacrificial cable alone cost approximately $100 at the dealership.
Never hurts to have spares on the shelf...
Don't mean to hijack thread but might as well add on to this to help others,{including myself}.I think mine just died. I have a P0638 code,p208f rec.flap, p0202e008 throttle valve1, p2032008actual valve potentiometer and a 2094-002 short circut with rough idle all for throttle 1 bypass with almost no throttle controll and when the key is on you can hear the bypass throttle clicking away.
Plugged in a new intake throttle body from my 92mm to my old 82 throttle and same thing so guessing the bypass throttle valve.
Any sugestions bbirdwell before I start tearing into it?
Also I had the key in the run position for 10 minutes trying to set my Nitrous tank pressure sensor and it was running fine pulling out of the garage untill I went to resart the engine. Don't believe leaving key on caused anything but.......
Also so many different part numbers listed as well ????
I also wonder if the intake throttle body harness is the same thing since the connector can go to either one.
@SICAMG
If you would like, I can send a bypass valve off of a CL55 for you to try. If it works, problem identified.
I'm assuming (bad, I know), that your car was running fine previously? I'm preaching to the choir (that's you) here but the two throttle bodies actuate mirror-image of each other; throttle 10% open, bypass 10% closed. Throttle 90% open, bypass 90% closed. If connectors reversed, both actuators work backwards. The connectors also become very brittle with age; the shell on mine literally broke while disconnecting it. Bypass valve on right below you can see the broken connector (this is the one where the other end was epoxied into place!).
The connectors for the sacrificial cables are pushed under the supercharger so you *might* be able to pull out the cable for the bypass valve, disconnect at the engine harness, install sacrificial cable, and plug into the potential replacement bypass valve to verify if the system now works.
If you want to give it a try, I'll include a new sacrificial cable so you don't have to pull the supercharger for the test. Of course, if it is the bypass valve, supercharger comes off.
If it works for you and you want to keep it, I'm sure we can come to a satisfactory agreement on cost. You did me very good on the TCM module with tune.
PM me your address and I can get the valve and cable dropped off at UPS in the morning.
EDIT: Alternatively, I can just send the valve with the damaged connector for test purposes. Still functions but I have to replace the connector or find a way to un-epoxy the connector attached to the valve body.
Last edited by bbirdwell; Apr 13, 2026 at 07:10 PM.
Thanks buddy! I really apriciate that but I have one coming that was a good match so I will know friday. I can't seem to get the cable out from under the blower,been off many times along with engine so I tucked in everything a little different from factory.....of course I did.
On a side note this is,aside from the engine and torque converter breaking from Nitrous LOL,the first issue I have really had with the car !!
I am going to start stocking more parts like you do. I keep all transmission parts and engine stuff in stock including transmission bearings that are really hard to find these days and I just completed a full set.
All internal engine bolts that rise in price EVERY year too !! A front damper bolt used to be $25.00 ,now $65.00 !! Cam gear bolts,$7.95 now $57.00 each!!
Makes me wonder why I do this stuff.
How do you like that TCM ? Big difference isnt it !!
Majorkook how did you make out with your bypass valve replacement?
bbirdwell that main code is p208f and is all I see now since I can not start it.
Reloaded tune like you said and also did a throttle adaptation reset as well and will let it sit over night. I am convinced it can't be a wireing issue of any type since I can diliberatly "fix" it by unpluging/repluging in the ECU connectors....very odd. I will look at the ECU pins one more time and figure out wich connector is the possible culprit ....if at all. A replacement ECU is 800.00 plus coding !!
Thanks for the input and great conversation tonight...I will keep you updated...Ugggg !
Hi SICAMG, I got the parts (bought two different ones just in case), but I haven't had time to work on the car. Will do this weekend and let you guys know how it went. These are the two I bought. I got one the one BBirdwell posted and also the one for the C230 as some others were saying would work. The C230 doesn't have the rubber boot thing and also doesn't have the plug epoxied in.
OK cool let us know and I hope it fixes it. What where your codes again if you remember?
bbirdwell I also forgot to tell you that the p0638 code also comes up as "throttle iced up" for a definition ????
OK cool let us know and I hope it fixes it. What where your codes again if you remember?
bbirdwell I also forgot to tell you that the p0638 code also comes up as "throttle iced up" for a definition ????
Gary, I'm looking through my copy of WIS for my '05 E55 and I cannot find a P0638. Erroneous/faulty code?
My codes were P2094-2, P202E-8, P2093-1, P202B-2, and P2007-8. I'm having these issues after swapping in a VRP 82MM throttle body and snout. Think the wiring harness for the bypass valve got damaged and hoping that will fix it. Car was running fine I thought, idle was a tiny bit high, so I thought I had a small vacuum leak somewhere, but then I pulled the codes. Hopefully, swapping the bypass valve with better harness will solve the codes. Crossing fingers... But please let me know if you guys think I should try anything else.
Majorkook,Did you do the adaptive throttle body reset ? That is mandatory. If you just slap on a throttle body the ECU dosent know what's going on with the new air flow readings which always baffles me because we only have a Map sensor.
Barry Im starting to think that the ECU was just spitting out anything because an iced up code would get it's signal from the air temp sensors. There is no other way for it to calculate temperature readings.
Yea, I did the throttle body reset, but just the procedure using the key in position two for a few minutes. I don't have the computer to do it the proper way. Do you think that could cause issues, and should I go to a shop to get it done the proper way?
Problem solved, and some of the codes solved. Although now I discovered that my alternator is failing. My 2004 e55 has 138k miles on it so I knew I would have to. Probably going to replace the water pump and power steering pump "while I'm in there"
The Bypass valve that BBirdwell suggested was the one I used, 1131500028. I still have the slk230 if you're local and want to try that one.
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