AWD over here!

 

Sounds a little high to me and I work at The House of Imports Mercedes in Buena Park. Usually when one of the executives gets a vehicle to drive around they have Dealer Plates on them so technically it gets sold as a 'New' vehicle. Unfortunately you are better off getting an actual Certified Pre-Owned MB.

 

Yeah, it's a weird dilemma. Indeed, I am after a CPO now.

 

Same here, I'm close to the Michigan border side of this bottom tip of Lake Michigan. You know how that lake effect snow is like.

 

We just got a 2010 E63 in and it's going for around $65,900. CPO would be the way to go.

 

Thanks for the heads-up. An enticing price of $65993. But with 31153 miles, that might actually be the fair market value. It's interesting the front windshield says $74991. Not sure how it is optioned but it looks like it's got Distronics so it will likely have P2. Per CarFax I wonder if it was sold from one dealer, South Coast @ Torrance, to you guys at Buena Park. Maybe it was $74991 at the South Coast location. It looks like it's got the recommended brake fluid change at 20K miles. I wonder if it has received the recommended brake job at 25K miles. If not, the new owner better be prepared to shell out $2500 for the rotors, hats, pads, labor, etc.

It's always good like this to have heads-up when new vehicles show up. Thanks.

 

I personally drove it from our sister store in Southbay, also owned by autonation (cost us nothing to transfer). It is a cpo vehicle so all maintanance scheduled was confirmed that it was current. In order to be a CPO vehicle the brakes must be to speck. As for options it's fully loaded. It's got p1, p2, pano-roof, night vision plus, parktronic plus and more. If you want I can send you the exact option list including the original sticker price. Pm me with your email addy. You can use it as a reference point.

 

If you or anybody else has questions regarding mercs feel free to ask. As an avid automobile enthusiast I can provide information that most people do not have access to.

 

Dbae, can you please pm me the option list on this black e63? Also, what's the lowest you'd take? Thanks.

 

Gotzilla Pm'ed, as well as all other PMs

 

OOOkay...in that case, I'll just be frank:

1) Is there "trunk cash" going on right now with the 2011 models (similar to what happened with the 2010 models back in summer of 2010).

2) Is there a formula by which the dealership derive the listing price on pre-owned vehicles such as E63s?

3) How much profit margin is there for the MB dealer when we buy a pre-owned E63? Meaning how much we can reasonably negotiate down from the asking price.

 

I recall looking at that car via Auto Trader, think the price tag was a little more there when I looked. It sure was enticing at first glance but then I started looking at other 2010 cars for sale across the nation. For not a whole lot more you can get cars with half the miles. This particular car though made me run from one here in town with 4k less miles, some less options and I think the price tag on it was $74k(so way over priced v. just ones within driving distance of me let alone across the country).

I had one dealer tell me they will knock $10k off MSRP of new 2011 cars they have in stock. But they failed to actually say off of what and looks like the cars depreciate almost $20k off MSRP via driving off the lot. So that did not seem like a great deal in comparisons to a 2012 with what I'd consider the better engine. I even told the guy that and his response was something along the lines of "fair enough".

 

Just reading this thread again in prep before I look at a demo car today

 

1. There are a few promotions going on right now but nothing like the ones we had last year.

2. There isn't a formula persay but it's based on Kelly blue book value. Whatever kbb lists their vehicle for that's the price the dealership will sell it for.

3. It really depends on how much the dealership gets the vehicle for. Sometimes they get it cheap abs others expensive. Generally if the vehicle has been on the lot for a long time it'll be marked down automatically. In this case you wouldn't have much wiggle room.

 

See you in a bit bro

 

Otkki,i think CPO is the way to go also,oddly many low lilage '10s around few or -0- CPO.Why do you think, seems it would make is more appealing. Think about $67,000 is about right?

 

I always get a little baffled on the pricing for the used ones. For example you have that blue car House of Imports above has which is the same basic price as a blue one on eBay. Differences are though the one on eBay has less miles, is used, and has the performance package so cost more new. The one on eBay is not a CPO but I talked to them and for $2500 they will make it one.

 

intersting Snipe,who knows what they have to do to CPO/what it costs them(?) A CPO gets us one more year warrenty and...? I see lots of '10s for $75-79,000 but I bet
you can get close to that on a "new" '11! I gotta think they want to dump the NA'd cars for the TTs coming in.Not to mention the p02 is standard now.

 

Mike,

I'd imagine on a 2400 mile car they have to do next to nothing to CPO it but buy the actual warranty from MBZ. I am sure at $2500 they are making money on the CPO. It adds a year but more importantly to me it takes the miles for the warranty up to 100k. If I could get a new 11 for high 70s or even low 80s I'd jump in it but does not seem like that is happening. All the new 11s seem to have $100-110k price tags with $5k of that being the P2. From what I have seen, paying low to mid 70s for a low mile'd CPO 2010 is not out of the question at all since lots of times that is just paying the asking price. Seems like dealers get the cars, ask the higher prices that no one is paying then months later things drop to that range.

 

Thx! Perhaps other will chime in,this fourm is powerfull !

 

Pricing on everything in this world is all based on demand. They will indeed drop the price if no one is buying. Eventually, it will strike a balance with the price people want to buy. Definitely agree with many of you that CPO is the way to go for used cars. The extra year definitely helps because I don't really want to go about without warranty on AMG cars. Moreover, it seems you can only buy MB factory extended warranty for CPO cars.

You can get a bareboned new '12 easily for around $83K. But that creates an interesting situation with the new '11 on the lot.

 

I'd actually be fine with a bare bones 12 since it comes with the P2. I have crap negotiation skills and can't get one below the base $89k. Though I still think the CPO cars are a better deal for my situation due to the miles on the warranty. Across cars we tend to stack on 40-45k miles a year.

 

snipe i was tooling around ebay and i saw this car

im sure u know about it, but i saw u are in texas so this might be a good car for u,

if it was in cali it would be my first pic, check it out
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2011-...t_28084wt_1165

 

I did not know about it but I have been focused on just CPO cars so ignored a lot of others. I seem to recall a low, but no where near as low as that car in El Paso, mileage car looking a good bit like that and for sale by a private party in California via Auto Trader.

BTW, I dare say that Honda dealership is a little off their rocker with that 2011:

http://www.rudolphhonda.com/2011-Mer...-TX/vd/6196594

 

As long as you have done your homework beforehand, the negotiation skills will likely come along. And not just homework--very intense homework on all aspects around the entire car purchase ordeal, because you need to be fully prepare to have a ballpark figure on anything the salesman/manager put on the table. Let me give you an example, when I was negotiating last december 24 on the car I'm currently driving (to be a trade-in soon), I made it very clear to the salesmen that my time there was very limited due to the time of the day and another local dealer I wanted to visit. Still, the salesmen went back there to drag my time by looking up online the cost of airplane fare, gas, distance to another cross-country dealership whose car price I wanted them to match. When I was shown the various traveling cost, I started to get pissed inside...I pulled out my notepad on the exact matter from that very same morning and showed them all the written numbers on how much it would cost for the travel to pick up that car. I have to say they was completely taken by surprised and knew I was there fully prepared. Of course, I got a really good deal in the end because I knew the prices to everything. Overall, you have to think of everything and know everything beforehand. And now with the internet, there is so much more available info out there for you to be fully prepared.

I have been doing intense homework for the past two weeks and I still thought of something last night that I will be researching today on the internet. By the way, if you are planning a trade-in (as in my case), you also have to do the homework and haggle over the trade in price. I remember reading this somewhere: most people are so focused and enamoured by the new car that they are forgetting that dealers tend to make more money off trade-in's and used cars than new. So they will appear nice by lowering the price of the car you are about to buy and recuperate much more profit by giving you a ****ty price on your trade in. Unfortunately, most are so dazed by the new car they just don't notice it. So with a trade-in, you are looking at doubling the homework and doubling the haggling. Don't overlook the trade-in. With me, I'm done with haggling over the trade-in already.

I also got some really good tips back in the 90's on car negotiation process from the public library's consumer reports. However, I was looking for similar articles last week and I couldn't find it going back several years. By the way, you can always get a better deal than carmax if you are willing to spend the time doing the homework and go through the hassle of haggling. The pay-off is tremendous.

If you want to get a bareboned '12 E63's at a good price, just go to truecar.com and follow the direction there. You should be able to get it without haggling. However, haggling will save you more.

The following four sites are what I always use for every car negotiating homework ordeal: Edmunds, kbb, yahoo auto, truecar, NADA.

Nice car there, vdupower. Of course with the $75K reserve not met, who know how high it will run...I would guess it will at least be in the low-mid 80K's. I think shipping the car to SoCal from TX might only run between $700-900. So it might be worthwhile for you to look into it, vdupower, if you can get a good deal on it. Based on the options, the MSRP runs in the $112.6K range. But of course you can just bid up slowly up to your max amount. You never know you might get lucky. It's quite a well loaded car. Take off the pano, add Distronics (obviously cannot be with P30, and change to a non-black color--and it will be my ideal car.

Hmm, it looks like the brake calipers are not painted with the P30. Picture has 669miles on odometer, and mileage is now 1650. Anyway, it looks like someone has changed his/her mind right after driving off and the car is going to take a huge depreciation hit.