vdubpower

Do we know where the jacking points are for this car.

I only want to do simple wheel changes

Not planning on getting underneath the car

I just bought a 3 ton from harbor freight though I have the option for a 2.5 ton that is low profile.

otakki

I have been waiting for similar info for a long time. That includes wanting to see some pix of the front central jacking point mentioned by another member on another thread. I'm so tempted to use the rear differential as the rear central jacking point...but have not after warned by many not to.

Hopefully someone will put up some pix soon or else I'm planning to bump this thread up from time to time.

By the way, is this the one you got:
http://www.harborfreight.com/automot...ump-68052.html

Which one is the 2.5 ton low profile?

vdubpower

here is the one i got, only 70 bucks this weekend

the aluminum one is way lighter but not the issue for me



this is the steel lower profile 2.5 ton, for 80 bucks this weekend
i suppose for suffice for a 4000 lb car

RobbieRob

Just under the car about the mirror area for the front, and about a foot from the rear wheel(forward)for the rear. You will see a notch where the factory jack will mount, but you can just use a regular jack like the one you purchased to slide in there.

vdubpower

I'll look for it today. Hopefully the 3 ton will fiit otherwise I'll switch it out for the 2.5 low profile

lunarx

I used that front jacking point many times.
Ill get a picture of the car lifted from there on my jack.
Please feel free to PM or email me if I dont get the pic up by this evening.

The back is a problem though : /

vdubpower

a pic would be fantastic

what size jack are you using

otakki

Definitely looking forward to the pix, lunarx.

Vdubpower, I have the feeling the low profile one will be more suitable since the reverselogic jacking pad will likely fit the more flattened cup better. Of course, I would personally also prefer to use a 3 ton over a 2.5 ton.

vdubpower

i took some pics,

i was thinking about the reverselogic or a hocky puck...but i went to homeboy depot and got some wood for like 50 cents out of their extra bin

here a few pics i took of the rubbers

otakki

Would you need the low profile jack? Looks like you might need it if that is the lowest position for the jack.

BACnMercedes

I just got that same jack (in the harbor freight link) because my regular one would not fit under the car. I needed a low profile. The jack that is on the trunk has a special head to fit into the cut out under the car. Can the harbor freight jack just push on the "jack area" under the car and not hurt anything since it doe snot fit up into the recessed area? I see someone got a small piece of wood to fit into the jack area also but does anyone know of some type of adapter to fit into the area under the car and then securely to the jack?

vdubpower

That picture its with a couple pumps under the car

The three ton fits fine

Not sure if it will with the wood I got but I can change that

Harbor freight has a three ton racing low profile but 200$

I actually exchanged mine because it has a leak and wasn't pumping at proper pace.

I'll check the new one today

otakki

Here is what I would buy for those jacking point/slot:
http://www.reverselogic.us/ReverseLo...Jack_Pads.html
The same website also has excellent jack stands which I am considering. The problem being how I am supposed to put the stand in the same slot which I use to jack up the car. That is why I'm looking for a central jacking location.

Avoid using the emergency jack in the trunk since individuals have reported the jack slipping off. Thus save that for emergency only when you have no other choices. Obviously, the E63 has two slots for each corner, with the outer one under the cover for emergency jack only. The one used by service dept and own jack should be the inner one.

The jacking point/slot is made of some type of hard polymer plastic. Vdubpower has put up good pix of it above. Do not jack up on it directly without an adapter because you will damage it or deform it. Some idiot has jacked under my driver side rear one and I could see the deformation.

I have read about the leak in the jack but the overall review is excellent. There are shops around so replacement shouldn't be a problem. I'll likely pick one up soon. I'll need it to swap winter tire this year for my other car, which fell off the scissor jack onto (luckily) the stand this January. So I plan to jack up on the rear differential of my old car this year.

vdubpower

all the jacks i reviewed are all made in the same place, as everything is...ive got 90 days to return if there are any issues....70 bucks pretty good price

lunarx

This is the front jacking point I have used to lift the front of the car.
(Apologies for taking so long to post the pics, I was out of town)

When the plastic covers are removed you can see that it is a very strong cross brace.
With the way the covers are clearanced around it, it looks like it was designed for a jack to fit there.
I'm using a Craftsman 3 Ton Aluminum Jack.

vdubpower

so thats in teh center of the car?

i actually bought a new Harbor frieght jack, the other one sorta stopped lifting well after a few times, ill give it another chance with a new one,

i just cant get the metal saftey pin off that it came with this time.....

otakki

Thanks for the photos, lunarx. I was thinking of bumping the thread a couple of days ago and then decided I will give it another couple of weeks before I do so.

Hmm, I wonder if I will actually need a low profile jack jack to have that flattened cup.

bobafett

Don't bother with the low-profile jack, you don't need it for this car.

Also, do a quick fab of some thick rubber pads cut to size and epoxy'd onto the jack platform itself - lessens the chance of scratching stuff up, especially if you accidentally (or purposefully) decide to jack up the car from another spot. You can do it in 10 minutes with $10 of supplies.

--Dan

lunarx

It is in the center but forward of the steering rack.

That is good advice on the rubber pads.
My jack has a rubber pad inside the cup which provides a soft lifting surface against the plastic pad on the cross brace.

I always put wood blocks if lifting on metal parts of a car.

lunarx

I forgot to mention that if you remove the under tray covers you can put jack stands on the outer ends of that cross brace.

Also, to access that lifting point I drive the car up on shallow ramps that I made out of 3 wood shelving boards nailed together.
Race ramps would be the cooler product to use.

Chris_tA_4

Sorry to bump this old thread but I'm looking a picture of the rear jacking point so I can lift both rear wheels up at the same time. I'm trying to install rear camber arms on the car this weekend. Can anyone post up a pic?? TIA

cyclezib

Nobody has mentioned that you should chock at least two of the wheels to help prevent the car from moving. Yes, I know we have all taken the sort cut and not done this.
But after a near accident, I bought a set of big heavy rubber chocks.

Regarding the photo of where to jack up the car, while it is a clear picture of the underneath of the car, but where in relationship to the outside of the car is this front point located? Fore or aft of the mirror? Where is the rear spot?

otakki

For the front, the black rubber-like material in the center of the cross membrane can be seen once you remove the bottom cover in the front. You can stick the safety stands in the front jack up slots.

For the rear, the location in front of the fins on the diff might be a place to jack. Just don't jack up underneath the fins. It's "maybe" because I'm not sure if it is a good idea to jack up there. I would say get two jacks and get the jack pad from the Reverse Logic website and jack up via the rear jacking slots. The problem that is left now is--where to put the safety stands? Never get underneath a vehicle without safety stands in place. Oh yes, also need the heavy rubber chokes for those wheels on the ground as mentioned.

cyclezib

So, the rectangular boxes on the running boards are where you set the jack? How do you remove the covers without damaging the paint? Or do you mean the lift point is farther in, but at the location where the rectangles are?

jim911

If you use a jack pad you do have to remove the covers. the pad give plenty of clearance as to not crush the bodywork