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pre-gap means that they have the specified gap out of the box, without you needing feeler gauges to check (still worth checking though). The gap is measured between the ground electrode (L shaped bent 'probe') and centre electrode.
pre-gap means that they have the specified gap out of the box, without you needing feeler gauges to check (still worth checking though). The gap is measured between the ground electrode (L shaped bent 'probe') and centre electrode.
I've had them with my AMS tune for 11k miles so far no issues. Put down 590hp/726tq back in cool spring weather and most recently 562hp/685tq in 90* heat last week. Best dyno was 605hp/733tq but I don't have the graph
Really a no brainier to go colder plugs, adding this much hp/tq anyone with knowledge modifying engines would suggest a colder plug. Same as putting a small shot of nitrous on an n/a engine, you could get away with stock plugs but a cooler plug will lessen the chances of issues.
I was getting CEL and misfire on Cyl #3 for the past 2 months. Dealer replaced coil pack and 1 spark plug but would still misfire at around 5k rpms.
I knew it was spark plugs... so after reading this post. I learned a few things.
*M157/M28 share plugs
*Gong 1 step colder in heat range is great for tuned cars and I have noticed the difference MPG is better than ever and power band is more responsive.
If you have a drop off in power, mpgs are down and have a misfire those are signs your plugs need replacement.
My car has 47k miles and 30k of them tuned.
I think overall.. tuners ask to replace spark plugs to avoid using a tune with worn plugs.
In my case.. on my next boosted benz (preowned) plugs would be my first mod along with a tune.
The general rule of thumb with adding more HP, is to go one heat range colder on your plugs per about 75hp increase. One reason why some tuners ask that you use their colder plugs or install colder plugs.
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E63 Biturbo, UPD Cold Air induction kit, UPD performance crank pulley and UPD adjustable rear suspension with ride height adjustment.
I was told that I did not need upgraded plugs but would need to change my plugs every 10-15 miles which my MB dealer who is a Renntech dealer confirmed.
I did the Weistec plugs when I had my tune installed just to be safe. Thinking about adding the AMS heat exchanger just to add another level of safety with the Texas heat.
I did the updated NGk plugs and I just got it back
From having two plugs replaced for broken or worn diodes. I was having a rough idol.
Is there anything different from the updated plugs from NGk or the wiestec or Renntech plugs? I'm plug confused. I did the OE tune and had the plugs done at the same time.
5k miles later the two plugs are shot ?
What's the best plug period? Tell me I will buy them.
From having two plugs replaced for broken or worn diodes. I was having a rough idol.
Is there anything different from the updated plugs from NGk or the wiestec or Renntech plugs? I'm plug confused. I did the OE tune and had the plugs done at the same time.
5k miles later the two plugs are shot ?
What's the best plug period? Tell me I will buy them.
1 step colder , 1st page ngk iridium would work , make sure to gap them to 0.026–0.028 depends how much boost you running
I don't know if a special tool was needed as my Renntech plugs was installed by my Mercedes dealer. I'm no mechanic, but back in the days I remember there is a certain torque you need to tighten the plugs so it's not too loose or tight.
I costed around $200 if I remember correctly to have the dealer install them, but would imagine it would cost less at your local Indy shop.
Good luck.
Originally Posted by medici78
SIZKBR8A8HS was mentioned earlier in the thread. It is specified for BMW Alpina B7 but has been shown to work on the E63.
So nobody has replaced their own? I keep hearing a special tool is required. Anybody know about this?
I was getting CEL and misfire on Cyl #3 for the past 2 months. Dealer replaced coil pack and 1 spark plug but would still misfire at around 5k rpms.
I knew it was spark plugs... so after reading this post. I learned a few things.
*M157/M28 share plugs
*Gong 1 step colder in heat range is great for tuned cars and I have noticed the difference MPG is better than ever and power band is more responsive.
If you have a drop off in power, mpgs are down and have a misfire those are signs your plugs need replacement.
My car has 47k miles and 30k of them tuned.
I think overall.. tuners ask to replace spark plugs to avoid using a tune with worn plugs.
In my case.. on my next boosted benz (preowned) plugs would be my first mod along with a tune.
The SIZKBR8A8HS:
-8 heat range from NGK's heat range charts
-23.7mm reach on the threaded part
-It will handle up to 24lbs of boost without a problem assuming the stock starts out at 14psi
That 23.7mm reach is why there is NO other NGK plug that can be substituted for it. I wish someone could measure the stock and see if it matches this one.
I called Oreilly just to see what they had for stock replacement. They had Denso and Champion plugs.... for factory replacement
Denso (3444-Oreilly stock number) SC20HR11
-20 heat range on Denso charts
-26.5mm reach on the threaded part
Interesting to note, the Champion plug also had a 26.075mm reach. So for stock replacements (I am going to buy a stock plug and measure later today), it seems the range is 26-26.5mm. The RennTech and NGK substitutes are over 3mm shorter than stock
Factory plug for 2012 E63 (verified via vin number) which should be the same for all M157s is " A 004 159 64 03 "
Specs on direct measurements are as follows:
-Z6S113320 was the part number written on the plug itself
-26.45mm (threaded portion) Reach
So yep the RennTech plugs are 3mm shorter than stock and the Denso plugs are the right sized plugs for this car. I am going to use the Denso part numbers to find some colder range plugs and post that here too.
About the special tool needed, yes there will be a special plug socket needed cos this has a Torx shaped nut section of the plug. That is the only "weird" part of the plug. I will post a pic so you can see soon enough
Yes 14mm deep socket like the one depicted here. What I do not know is if it needs to be thin or something like that (like one I used for a BMW in the past). But it seems there is nothing special about the socket needed to remove the stock plugs. The replacement plug however is probably a regular sparkplug socket
So what is the verdict on this? I have a 12 e550 m278 coupe with a tune that is now showing some misfires, it could be the plugs I am not sure. Is a colder plug necessary I have had the tune for 15k miles with no problems. If I should run a colder plug what should i buy what should the gap be? or just replace with stock and change out every 15k miles?
08-05-2015, 06:20 PM
