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The vehicle was a mess when purchased last year. Rust and corrosion. 2 brake lines, all hoses and calipers replaced on an independent shop suggestion. MB Dealer estimated $10k for brake lines, new tires, oil pan and valve cover gasket leaks. 3 other shops estimated a WAG $3-5000. They didn't want anything to do with it. That was a humbling moment. DIY is the wise albeit slow option for this car. Safety first. These MB vehicles are sensitive to any wobbly voltage or sensor aberrancies and make it known. That's a plus.
A local mechanic did the brake work for $1000. The rest is done piecemeal at home personally. Buying and understanding the OBD scanner language, dtc's is a must for the inexperienced to avoid false flags. Modules can be deactivated and controlled remotely. That helps a lot.
Your advice is super helpful too. Thank you again. My ride is back on the road. Have a nice week.
The vehicle was a mess when purchased last year. Rust and corrosion. 2 brake lines, all hoses and calipers replaced on an independent shop suggestion. MB Dealer estimated $10k for brake lines, new tires, oil pan and valve cover gasket leaks. 3 other shops estimated a WAG $3-5000. They didn't want anything to do with it. That was a humbling moment. DIY is the wise albeit slow option for this car. Safety first. These MB vehicles are sensitive to any wobbly voltage or sensor aberrancies and make it known. That's a plus.
A local mechanic did the brake work for $1000. The rest is done piecemeal at home personally. Buying and understanding the OBD scanner language, dtc's is a must for the inexperienced to avoid false flags. Modules can be deactivated and controlled remotely. That helps a lot.
Your advice is super helpful too. Thank you again. My ride is back on the road. Have a nice week.
You already dealt with failed brake lines... good call I bet the new ones are as good as the factory lines.
If I were you, I'd look at ... :
1-- normalizing crankcase blow-by pressure that blows one seal after another and
2-- become proficient with your hardworking coolant system... thermostat, hoses, serpentine kit, exp. tank cap,...
This dtc remained since the install of a FCS strut. The dtc disappeared after replacement of FSC strut for Arnott.
In short, FSC sent me 1 non-compressible shock which I returned and 1 defect valve shock which was installed and replaced. The Arnott was $20 more. I recommend Arnott.
Notice the fault status as "STORED" really means "not active".
It may be a TRANSIENT fault that comes and goes. In that case it won't be set as "CURRENT" but will return soon after getting cleared.
In short... we don't want any fault current/stored !
Notice the fault status as "STORED" really means "not active".
It may be a TRANSIENT fault that comes and goes. In that case it won't be set as "CURRENT" but will return soon after getting cleared.
In short... we don't want any fault current/stored !
Glad you got this sorted out.
Thanks. Me too.
The dtc would clear and return. Cluster car-arrow warning would display itself solely with engine running. It'd disappear from cluster with turning engine off to acc position. Clear dtc-return with ignition-clear again...
Why suspension cluster warning with running engine only? Dunno. It's a MB thing. Similar to the engine dtc for ignition with doors locked. Why is ignition with doors unlocked important? Again, dunno.
Next up, replace (again) transfer case fluid to reduce sticky viscous coupler.
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FSC trouble...
