W212 AMG Discuss the W212 AMG's such as the E63

Track Results for RaceChip and ram air this past Saturday

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Old Mar 1, 2017 | 08:31 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by 10speed
Where are the switches you speak of ?
Does each number on the switch just add extra power?
Did you put it on 7 yet ? Or do you need a higher octane fuel?
11.1 without turning the dial up seems awesome to me !
They are inside the box attached a pic.

I get mixed answers on the switch. I've heard "it loads different maps" and some say it just ups power 3% or so.

No I havent gone to 7 ever. I like it on 5 so far. Not that I care much about fuel economy but on 6 it was obviously worse. 5 doesn't seem to bad Fuel Economy wise (from the car monitor), and performance seems much better than on 2.

I'm pretty happy with the results so far for the price!
Attached Thumbnails Track Results for RaceChip and ram air this past Saturday-racechip.jpg  
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Old Mar 2, 2017 | 09:26 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by TTMerc
They are inside the box attached a pic.

I get mixed answers on the switch. I've heard "it loads different maps" and some say it just ups power 3% or so.

No I havent gone to 7 ever. I like it on 5 so far. Not that I care much about fuel economy but on 6 it was obviously worse. 5 doesn't seem to bad Fuel Economy wise (from the car monitor), and performance seems much better than on 2.

I'm pretty happy with the results so far for the price!
Thanks for the answers, I really like this setup, being removable is key, They do have an iPhone app for this, can you make these adjustments via the app?
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Old Mar 2, 2017 | 11:26 AM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by 10speed
Thanks for the answers, I really like this setup, being removable is key, They do have an iPhone app for this, can you make these adjustments via the app?
Here is what it says. I think its just less adjustability and the connect is "married" to the vin.


Should I order the Ultimate or Ultimate Connect?
Both modules produce the same engine power
Only the Ultimate can be migrated to a new vehicle. The Connect can NOT.
The Connect needs a smartphone OR tablet to load pre-configured settings during first installation.

Supported smartphones/tablets:
Apple
The RaceChip app is compatible with all Apple smartphones and tablets supporting Bluetooth 4.0 and running iOS 7.0 or later.

Android
The RaceChip app is compatible with smartphones supporting Bluetooth 4.0 and running Android 4.3 (Jelly Bean) or later.

Because of various specifications among Android smartphone makers, the RaceChip Ultimate Connect CANNOT be paired with the RaceChip app for the following devices:
HTC and Sony devices running Android 5.0 (Lollipop)
HTC and Samsung devices running Android 6.0 (Marshmallow)
Android 7.0 limited support. May not work yet.
The Ultimate can be fine tuned at home as it has switches inside. The Ultimate Connect has pre-set configurations and does NOT allow further fine tuning.
In the case of BMW and VW engines there are cases where not all engines will work with the Ultimate Connect even if they are listed as supported. Example: BMW 535i uses two different plug versions. If you have not contacted us prior to ordering then we will send you a document after you placed the order. This document will show pictures of the two plug versions and if your vehicle uses the unsupported plug then we can convert the order into a normal Ultimate. The Ultimate is always supported.
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Old Mar 2, 2017 | 12:33 PM
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Ok thanks ,after reading that I see why you got the ultimate and not the ultimate connect, sometimes being simple is better , also it seems like they have a lot of work to do to perfect the connect
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Old Mar 7, 2017 | 10:40 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by TTMerc
These are the ramair inserts I'm talking about. These were for fitting and then I made some from thin metal. IAT's dropped a good amount at highway speeds and seems to pull a ton harder from about 60. Going to try and get some 60-120 times. Is there any decent apps for iphone that will do 60-120?
IAT's my drop a bit, but I hate to break it to you but there's really no such thing as "ram air" when you're talking about an already forced induction engine. Whether turbo or supercharged. Only truly effective in a N/A engine. Any gains you're seeing are more than likely a result of potentially slightly cooler air. Not an increase in the amount of air that is going through your turbos. May as well buy a Turbonator and post 20% gainz!
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Old Mar 8, 2017 | 12:22 AM
  #56  
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I'll argue ram air would benefit a supercharged engine but I'd agree about it not helping a turbo' application.
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Old Mar 8, 2017 | 12:22 AM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by cymachine
IAT's my drop a bit, but I hate to break it to you but there's really no such thing as "ram air" when you're talking about an already forced induction engine. Whether turbo or supercharged. Only truly effective in a N/A engine. Any gains you're seeing are more than likely a result of potentially slightly cooler air. Not an increase in the amount of air that is going through your turbos. May as well buy a Turbonator and post 20% gainz!
which is it...only truly effective in an N/A engine or potentially cooler IATs? The point is, it may actually be effective in lowering IATs which significantly helps forced induction cars (especially when the ECU pulls timing and boost if the IATs start to elevate). And the turbonator comment was not necessary. Someone is willing to try things and share with the other members of the community and you come up with a snarky comment.
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Old Mar 8, 2017 | 12:27 AM
  #58  
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And I'd agree that it might be a bandaid for our stupid iat's or undersized intake inlets.
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Old Mar 8, 2017 | 01:29 AM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by TMC M5
which is it...only truly effective in an N/A engine or potentially cooler IATs? The point is, it may actually be effective in lowering IATs which significantly helps forced induction cars (especially when the ECU pulls timing and boost if the IATs start to elevate). And the turbonator comment was not necessary. Someone is willing to try things and share with the other members of the community and you come up with a snarky comment.
In a FI engine, the power adder is the sole method of increasing volumetric efficiency, addding exponentially more air into the mixture that can be achieved by normal NA engines. There's nothing that a true Ram Air system can do to come even close to that in a turbo/supercharged engine other than lowering intake temps by a couple degrees. Which in the grand scheme of things isn't much when you consider that air still has quite a bit of ways to travel. Upgrading the heat exchanger to be more efficient would have much greater increases in actual IAT's inside the engine compared to putting some pieces of metal in the grille to funnel a tad bit more air into the stock intake tubes. Not saying that it's an improvement. Just saying that it's the holy grail and can get a 4mph 1/4 trap time is completely illogical and misleading. OP claims he picked up that 4mph in the 1/4 just by using these "ram air" inserts. But at the same race weight of a cls that would mean he picked up 66 hp at the wheels. Sorry. Ain't buying it. People can share anything they want, but other people need to call out bull**** when it happens.

I'm not discouraging people from trying new things and sharing. Especially in a community with such a low # of cars sold as this. I just want to stop the propagation of unverified and/or information to that community.
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Old Mar 8, 2017 | 01:54 AM
  #60  
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I'm not saying "ram air" in that way. I just didnt know what else to call them, Airfoils? Air Louvers? LOL Just saying it "helped VELOCITY".. Think of it this way= If the air boxes had a tiny hole (where the fresh air comes in), it would take more power to take in air into the boxes--->into the turbo---->into the motor.. Causing Decreased Power.. Right?

Ok now opening the hole up to stock size.. Would you say you'd pick up power on a turbo car?? ... I think so.. and even though it may gain some power, would you say thats the max power you could gain? Dont you think if you made that hole even larger it would make a little more power? I think so...

Ok, so would you say that ANY restriction in the entire air duct/filter/whatever in front of the turbo, would be robbing some potential power?? I think so..

The point is, the most CFM that the turbo can take in with no restriction "At the max efficiency", would be WideFu#kinOpen... Right? Hell throw a velocity stack on the inlet would make the turbo run even more efficient Right?

Unfortunately we must have tubing, filters and boxes and more tubing all before that turbo inlet because we like keeping turbos not full of dirt or bugs or even water.

Race cars on the other hand, purposefully put the turbo/s in the front bumper wide open.. not just because it looks cool but also bc its the highest pressure area of forced air (Car moving forward) on the car, creating even more efficiency and more power!!!!

So me taking the same "high pressure area" (With the car moving forward), "foiling" that "High pressure air" directly into fresh air inlet on the air boxes creating higher pressure before the air filter, Higher pressure before the turbo inlet, which creates a Higher Velocity going into the turbo inlet should increase Efficiency and ultimately make more power Riiiigght? I think so....

LOL at the turbonator comment! Good one
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Old Mar 8, 2017 | 02:00 AM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by cymachine
In a FI engine, the power adder is the sole method of increasing volumetric efficiency, addding exponentially more air into the mixture that can be achieved by normal NA engines. There's nothing that a true Ram Air system can do to come even close to that in a turbo/supercharged engine other than lowering intake temps by a couple degrees. Which in the grand scheme of things isn't much when you consider that air still has quite a bit of ways to travel. Upgrading the heat exchanger to be more efficient would have much greater increases in actual IAT's inside the engine compared to putting some pieces of metal in the grille to funnel a tad bit more air into the stock intake tubes. Not saying that it's an improvement. Just saying that it's the holy grail and can get a 4mph 1/4 trap time is completely illogical and misleading. OP claims he picked up that 4mph in the 1/4 just by using these "ram air" inserts. But at the same race weight of a cls that would mean he picked up 66 hp at the wheels. Sorry. Ain't buying it. People can share anything they want, but other people need to call out bull**** when it happens.

I'm not discouraging people from trying new things and sharing. Especially in a community with such a low # of cars sold as this. I just want to stop the propagation of unverified and/or information to that community.
I didnt say I picked up 4mph from the "ram air". I said MAYBE it helped. The piggy back I ran is making some kind of power over stock so I would say the MPH over bone stock cars would be from that in HP numbers. If its making 66hp even I'll take it!! LOL
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Old Mar 8, 2017 | 01:33 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by TTMerc
I didnt say I picked up 4mph from the "ram air". I said MAYBE it helped. The piggy back I ran is making some kind of power over stock so I would say the MPH over bone stock cars would be from that in HP numbers. If its making 66hp even I'll take it!! LOL
How does your custom mod differ from the UPD cold air intake spacer kit?

Are they both trying to accomplish the same thing??
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Old Mar 8, 2017 | 04:42 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by cymachine
In a FI engine, the power adder is the sole method of increasing volumetric efficiency, addding exponentially more air into the mixture that can be achieved by normal NA engines. There's nothing that a true Ram Air system can do to come even close to that in a turbo/supercharged engine other than lowering intake temps by a couple degrees. Which in the grand scheme of things isn't much when you consider that air still has quite a bit of ways to travel. Upgrading the heat exchanger to be more efficient would have much greater increases in actual IAT's inside the engine compared to putting some pieces of metal in the grille to funnel a tad bit more air into the stock intake tubes. Not saying that it's an improvement. Just saying that it's the holy grail and can get a 4mph 1/4 trap time is completely illogical and misleading. OP claims he picked up that 4mph in the 1/4 just by using these "ram air" inserts. But at the same race weight of a cls that would mean he picked up 66 hp at the wheels. Sorry. Ain't buying it. People can share anything they want, but other people need to call out bull**** when it happens.

I'm not discouraging people from trying new things and sharing. Especially in a community with such a low # of cars sold as this. I just want to stop the propagation of unverified and/or information to that community.
Originally Posted by TTMerc
I'm not saying "ram air" in that way. I just didnt know what else to call them, Airfoils? Air Louvers? LOL Just saying it "helped VELOCITY".. Think of it this way= If the air boxes had a tiny hole (where the fresh air comes in), it would take more power to take in air into the boxes--->into the turbo---->into the motor.. Causing Decreased Power.. Right?

Ok now opening the hole up to stock size.. Would you say you'd pick up power on a turbo car?? ... I think so.. and even though it may gain some power, would you say thats the max power you could gain? Dont you think if you made that hole even larger it would make a little more power? I think so...

Ok, so would you say that ANY restriction in the entire air duct/filter/whatever in front of the turbo, would be robbing some potential power?? I think so..

The point is, the most CFM that the turbo can take in with no restriction "At the max efficiency", would be WideFu#kinOpen... Right? Hell throw a velocity stack on the inlet would make the turbo run even more efficient Right?

Unfortunately we must have tubing, filters and boxes and more tubing all before that turbo inlet because we like keeping turbos not full of dirt or bugs or even water.

Race cars on the other hand, purposefully put the turbo/s in the front bumper wide open.. not just because it looks cool but also bc its the highest pressure area of forced air (Car moving forward) on the car, creating even more efficiency and more power!!!!

So me taking the same "high pressure area" (With the car moving forward), "foiling" that "High pressure air" directly into fresh air inlet on the air boxes creating higher pressure before the air filter, Higher pressure before the turbo inlet, which creates a Higher Velocity going into the turbo inlet should increase Efficiency and ultimately make more power Riiiigght? I think so....

LOL at the turbonator comment! Good one
The point I was making is that he might have called it "ram air"...which may be a misnomer (how about "scoops"), but he may be increasing additional/colder air into the engine bay. If there was insufficient cold air coming up from radiator opening, the turbos would be sucking up hotter air resident in the engine bay.

As TTMerc clarified, the additional trap speed was mainly from the piggyback tune (as stated in the title of the thread). But he seems to feel a difference in power at higher speeds with the "scoops" than without the "scoops". And if he is willing to take the time to quantify before and after that would be great.
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Old Mar 8, 2017 | 04:55 PM
  #64  
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Absolutley! It was way to packed that night. I wanted to do a bunch of runs on different racechip settings, launch techniques and with and without the "Scoops". Who knows they might be hurting my times, either way, I will report back.
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Old Mar 8, 2017 | 05:13 PM
  #65  
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How does your custom mod differ from the UPD cold air intake spacer kit?

Are they both trying to accomplish the same thing??
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Old Mar 8, 2017 | 07:39 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by Amg63-
How does your custom mod differ from the UPD cold air intake spacer kit?

Are they both trying to accomplish the same thing??
It differs completely but same sort of idea I am thinking. Increasing the volume of space where the fresh air enters and passes through the filter would make the air a bit easier to suck into the turbo but still restricted by the inlet size of the box. I am just basically trying to shove air directly into that hole so it doesnt have to suck as hard to pull the fresh air in. The Upd spacer would prob work well with my contraption having both combined. These are again just my thoughts I am by no means an engineer. My goal is to just get my stock setup to run at max efficiency without spending a ton of money. My goal is to run in the 10 second 1/4 mile range spending very little cash and stock ECU.
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Old Mar 8, 2017 | 08:47 PM
  #67  
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The OPs make shift ram air is definitely helping instead of hurting cool air flow into the intakes leave it at that!

How is that Race chip working out for ya,any check engine light or limp mode ?
When is your next trip to the drag strip?
Im really curious if you gonna hit the 10s
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Old Mar 8, 2017 | 10:04 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by 10speed
The OPs make shift ram air is definitely helping instead of hurting cool air flow into the intakes leave it at that!

How is that Race chip working out for ya,any check engine light or limp mode ?
When is your next trip to the drag strip?
Im really curious if you gonna hit the 10s
Make shift ram air FTW!

The Racechip is working well. I drive the car daily it isn't just a pleasure car so as far as day in and out works with no issues and actually makes the car much more enjoyable than stock. On nights when I know I'm going to have some late night highway pulls comparing speeds next to other cars in Mexico I Usually turn it up to about 4 or 5. Most of the time it sits on 2. The only time its gone into limp mode is after getting some really ****ty gas. Simply stopped the car then restarted and cleared the code. Its never gone into limp mode after that. Before adding the RC box I had already changed my plugs and gapped them at about .024 which in my opinion helped a bunch even in stock form. I am going to get to the drag strip this Friday if I can. It will be 1/8 mile though. A bunch of issues that people report after installing either a newly tuned Ecu or Piggy back can be solved by looking at issues with other parts needing attention. Can be the simplest of things making the car go into limp mode or throwing codes. Instead of blaming the tuner or box maybe make sure everything else is up to par first. Plugs/missfires, intercooler pump not working, exhaust leaks, o2 sensors, Dirty sensors, oil in the intake, vacuum leaks, bad gas, bad filters etc all need to be 100%. I do all of my own mechanic stuff its something I enjoy. Problem solving is one of my favorites lol
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Old Mar 8, 2017 | 10:33 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by TTMerc
Make shift ram air FTW!

The Racechip is working well. I drive the car daily it isn't just a pleasure car so as far as day in and out works with no issues and actually makes the car much more enjoyable than stock. On nights when I know I'm going to have some late night highway pulls comparing speeds next to other cars in Mexico I Usually turn it up to about 4 or 5. Most of the time it sits on 2. The only time its gone into limp mode is after getting some really ****ty gas. Simply stopped the car then restarted and cleared the code. Its never gone into limp mode after that. Before adding the RC box I had already changed my plugs and gapped them at about .024 which in my opinion helped a bunch even in stock form. I am going to get to the drag strip this Friday if I can. It will be 1/8 mile though. A bunch of issues that people report after installing either a newly tuned Ecu or Piggy back can be solved by looking at issues with other parts needing attention. Can be the simplest of things making the car go into limp mode or throwing codes. Instead of blaming the tuner or box maybe make sure everything else is up to par first. Plugs/missfires, intercooler pump not working, exhaust leaks, o2 sensors, Dirty sensors, oil in the intake, vacuum leaks, bad gas, bad filters etc all need to be 100%. I do all of my own mechanic stuff its something I enjoy. Problem solving is one of my favorites lol
Nice! Good luck at the track Friday! Seems like your headed in the right direction keeping an on eye on a lot of other things that matter ,besides a good tune,it can make all the difference on a well maintained car , and there's no such thing as problems only solutions!
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Old Mar 9, 2017 | 01:44 AM
  #70  
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I am running race chip ultimate on 15 x5M and very excited to see an option for w212 e63.
On the BMW chassis there is no numbers but letters for settings. I'm at the 4 setting and consensus is that should be the max to go before issues with misfires. 4 and below keeps factory fuel maps. Had only one cel which cleared and over 10K miles so far. It is a great product for the right price. Mose see the price and are scared away but it really is a high quality product that works.

I still have my e63 and had several tunes in the past. Nothing but problems and issues that therefore decided on the race chip for the BMW. More than enough power for me and less headache. Don't have the time to go to the shop every time i have an issue.

Someone said that every setting after the factor race chip setting raises boost .5 pound

Highly recommend and ordering one now
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Old Mar 9, 2017 | 10:01 AM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by drop997stop
I am running race chip ultimate on 15 x5M and very excited to see an option for w212 e63.
On the BMW chassis there is no numbers but letters for settings. I'm at the 4 setting and consensus is that should be the max to go before issues with misfires. 4 and below keeps factory fuel maps. Had only one cel which cleared and over 10K miles so far. It is a great product for the right price. Mose see the price and are scared away but it really is a high quality product that works.

I still have my e63 and had several tunes in the past. Nothing but problems and issues that therefore decided on the race chip for the BMW. More than enough power for me and less headache. Don't have the time to go to the shop every time i have an issue.

Someone said that every setting after the factor race chip setting raises boost .5 pound

Highly recommend and ordering one now
Great to hear your experience with it! Someone did the "Math" in this thread with the MPH and said 66hp was gained which would actually make since being that it was on the factory setting. It runs much harder on 5!
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Old Mar 9, 2017 | 10:03 AM
  #72  
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Stock traps are 120-122. If you trapped 126 with this wouldn't that be a gain of much more than 66 hp?

i think the 66hp was a joke about the scoops you made.
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Old Mar 9, 2017 | 11:35 AM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by Amg63-
Stock traps are 120-122. If you trapped 126 with this wouldn't that be a gain of much more than 66 hp?

i think the 66hp was a joke about the scoops you made.
Nah that is about right 3-4 mph.
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Old Mar 9, 2017 | 02:46 PM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by TTMerc
Nah that is about right 3-4 mph.
Yep that is about right!! For that increase in mph

My car stock trapped 123.79 stock at 3500DA
Now with 97hp and 160tq more I'm hoping to trap 128-129ish
We will see next Friday
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Old Mar 9, 2017 | 03:53 PM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by Geno51
Yep that is about right!! For that increase in mph

My car stock trapped 123.79 stock at 3500DA
Now with 97hp and 160tq more I'm hoping to trap 128-129ish
We will see next Friday
Yes we are vouching for you! Go 129mph like AMS did!!
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10 Most Reliable Mercedes-Benz Models You Can Buy Used

Slideshow: From bulletproof sedans to surprisingly tough SUVs, these Mercedes models proved that the three-pointed star can go the distance.

By Verdad Gallardo | 2026-04-08 09:55:49


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