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My 2011 totalled from a tapping noise??

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Old 02-24-2018, 09:44 PM
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My 2011 totalled from a tapping noise??

Hey Guys,

I was scheduled for sevice at the dealer yesterday. Interesting timing. About 4 days ago I started hearing a tapping noise that sounded like valve train, lifter or worn cam lobe. The service advisor agreed with me that it sounded louder on the left bank than the right. I left the car with them not terribly worried since I have a very good third party warranty that would cover any engine issue. Same warranty covered a snapped half axle about 3 months ago. Paid for itself on that alone.

So a few hours after I left the car my service guy calls me and tells me his two techs on it agree that the noise is in the bottom end! Ugh. They suggest it is likely a rod bearing. I have not heard of this on these cars. So my SA tells me they only replace the whole long block with something like this. HUH?? I asked why cant they just drop oil pan and inspect the rod bearings. He said the engine has to be pulled to do this. Warranty company doesnt want to pay to do this. So the warranty company just asked them for a price to replace the long block. IT IS $52,000 !!!!

So my warranty has a clause, that makes sense, that they wont pay for a repair that exceeds the NADA used car listed value. That is about $31,000 for my car. So I am waiting for Monday to hear what they intend to do. I am guessing they might pay me the $31,000 and take the car? Seems like a HUGE waste. My care is pristeen. Literally not a scratch or flaw on it.

Any of you hear of anything like this?

I hear of some of you guys pumping these motors up to huge horse powers with tunes and mods and still not hear of bottom end failures. My car has never leaked a drop of oil and never been low on oil.

I welcome any advice or suggestions from you boys.

I guess the good news in this is that if they total it, I can justify to the wifey my move up to a 2015 S 4-matic!! That question will be in a separate thread regarding what I should make sure to find in options. And also what the differences are between 2014 and 15.

Thanks in advance guys.
Old 02-25-2018, 05:46 PM
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Seems strange to have a total bottom end failure without having a CEL or something extremely noticeable other than just tapping. The tapping is very common in the m156 with lifters. You're lucky to have that warranty.
Old 02-25-2018, 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by PurpleHeartAMG
Seems strange to have a total bottom end failure without having a CEL or something extremely noticeable other than just tapping. The tapping is very common in the m156 with lifters. You're lucky to have that warranty.
sorry. What is CEL?

Also, I am not yet convinced that these techs are correct. It sounds a lot like a lifter/tappet. And as you mentioned that is common in 156. Rod bearings are not.
Old 02-25-2018, 07:13 PM
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CEL = Check Engine Light
Old 02-25-2018, 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by PurpleHeartAMG
CEL = Check Engine Light
I was thinking Complete Engine Loss. Lol

I actually doubt that a worn and loose rod bearing would be picked up in any manner be the CEL system. Unless the engine was really low on oil of course which would trigger the light before the tapping. And I would have seen the low oil message before the CEL.

I should know a lot more about all of this tomorrow and will update the thread.

Secretely, I would be OK with taking the $31k for the car and then upgrading to newer model. I would just need to pull a few things out of the old one like the high power sub and amp and some other extras. Then I could just drop them into the new beast!
Old 03-12-2018, 07:10 PM
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UPDATE

Hey Guys,

The dealer finally pulled the motor out and fully inspected the bottom end. It turns out they were correct with their initial diagnosis and it is indeed a spun rod bearing on #5 (this is the cylinder closest to the front bumper on the drivers side for those who do not know). The spun bearing has scored the crank journal as expected so a new crank will be put in.

In all they will be putting in a new crank, all new rod bearings, all new main bearings, and of course all new relevant seals and gaskets. The cost to my third party extended warranty is estimated as $19k +/- $1k. So the $4k I spent on that warranty was the deal of the century! FYI, they also just paid for a snapped half axle about 3 months ago. That was $2500.

So basically I spun a rod and it will cost me $200 for the deductible.

I have some doubt that the engine will ever be as sound as it was when it came out of Stuttgart when a local dealer mechanic re-assembles it. How would any of you feel about it if it were your car? Good, weary, dump it?

My thinking is to sell it with the transferable warranty, and move up to a 2015 or 16, while it is still perfectly running. I mean to have a snapped axle and a spun rod bearing in this car that is essentially stock? It has a mild v5 tune from Eurocharged. But that isn't gonna cause those failures. Those are both weird ones.

Also, I have the wife on board with making the change based on all of this. A change I kinda wanted to do anyway. So timing is perfect!

I will update one final time after I get the car back. But that might be another 2 weeks with these guys. Ugh.
Old 03-13-2018, 02:46 PM
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Vrod!!

glad they made it right

this BEGS the question - who is your warranty company as I will go with them in the future!!!

And and and you have a tune and the warranty company doesn't know or doesn't care ... this is huge

WHAT HAPPENS if you have another $10,000 claim? Is this aggregate or per occurrence $31k max coverage?


cheers


would have liked to have seen you in a 2014+

On the one hand you now know this engine inside and out and what more could go wrong?

a new used car is new risk;

on the other hand this car has demonstrated major problems and is easy to justify dumping it

Last edited by PeterUbers; 03-13-2018 at 09:48 PM.
Old 03-15-2018, 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by PeterUbers
Vrod!!

glad they made it right

this BEGS the question - who is your warranty company as I will go with them in the future!!!

And and and you have a tune and the warranty company doesn't know or doesn't care ... this is huge

WHAT HAPPENS if you have another $10,000 claim? Is this aggregate or per occurrence $31k max coverage?


cheers


would have liked to have seen you in a 2014+

On the one hand you now know this engine inside and out and what more could go wrong?

a new used car is new risk;

on the other hand this car has demonstrated major problems and is easy to justify dumping it
Hey Peter,

1st important note to you:

My car's name is Eva (LOL) not Eleanor!!! Eleanor is from Gone In 60 Seconds! :-)

Family is good. My youngest (daughter) turns 8 on Sunday.

So,

The warranty company is Members Choice. They are very popular with credit unions. I paid about $4k for their Platinum plan (top package) and it was for an additional 75,000 miles after purchase or 7 years. After reading through the contract several times I do not see anything that indicates anything aggregate. It also says that in any one visit to the shop, the maximum deductible is 1 time at $200. So if I had 3 things broken when I take it in they repair all of them for the $200 total! Of course these are items that must be covered in the plan. So rattles, reg maintenance, brake items, etc are not covered as one would expect.

It is my understanding that if I transfer the warranty to a new buyer, any repair will still be covered as long as it does not exceed the NADA used car value of the vehicle at that time. However, I am going to double check the aggregate question when I get home tonight to be sure.

ALSO, I found out from my SA last night that after they basically finish rebuilding this motor, the dealership guarantees it for 2 years. Even down to not leaking a drop of oil!

Lastly, I flashed my ECU back to the stock tune before I drove it into the dealer. So they, nor the warranty company, could see the v5 tune. If they looked hard enough I am told they might be able to see it has been accessed at most. The thing is though, that even if they saw the v5 tune it is so mild that it in no way would have caused a bottom end failure. Guys put nitrous and superchargers on these motors without bottom ens issues.

That's all for now.

Cheers.
Old 03-16-2018, 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Vrodman
Hey Peter,

1st important note to you:

My car's name is Eva (LOL) not Eleanor!!! Eleanor is from Gone In 60 Seconds! :-)

Family is good. My youngest (daughter) turns 8 on Sunday.

So,

The warranty company is Members Choice. They are very popular with credit unions. I paid about $4k for their Platinum plan (top package) and it was for an additional 75,000 miles after purchase or 7 years. After reading through the contract several times I do not see anything that indicates anything aggregate. It also says that in any one visit to the shop, the maximum deductible is 1 time at $200. So if I had 3 things broken when I take it in they repair all of them for the $200 total! Of course these are items that must be covered in the plan. So rattles, reg maintenance, brake items, etc are not covered as one would expect.

It is my understanding that if I transfer the warranty to a new buyer, any repair will still be covered as long as it does not exceed the NADA used car value of the vehicle at that time. However, I am going to double check the aggregate question when I get home tonight to be sure.

ALSO, I found out from my SA last night that after they basically finish rebuilding this motor, the dealership guarantees it for 2 years. Even down to not leaking a drop of oil!

Lastly, I flashed my ECU back to the stock tune before I drove it into the dealer. So they, nor the warranty company, could see the v5 tune. If they looked hard enough I am told they might be able to see it has been accessed at most. The thing is though, that even if they saw the v5 tune it is so mild that it in no way would have caused a bottom end failure. Guys put nitrous and superchargers on these motors without bottom ens issues.

That's all for now.

Cheers.
thars awesome man, EVA!!! Love it

great to hear the family is growing well and you're all healthy

keep the car man, sounds like it'll be a win win and the car won't surprise you with much more

however if you get a 2014+ you will not be disappointed

smart move on the tune re flash
Old 03-17-2018, 07:53 AM
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Wowser, you dodged a bullet there Vrod

TBH I'd keep it...they're fitting a new crank. That's the crux of the whole build. A fresh crank and new bearings with standard oil clearance is worth it's weight in gold. I don't even want to think what a new M156 crack costs....with that amount of coin, i'd be tempted to have a custom stroker crank made up or something, hehe. I'm going to assume they'll thoroughly clean the block, head, oil passages etc...

Curious to understand how it happened though. Rod bearing failures on any car scare me.

Should I be starting to get concerned...? I saw a rod bearing failure posted on the W204 forum recently too.

Screw it, when my oil change is due in May, I'm going to get my oil analysed.
Old 03-21-2018, 11:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Vrodman
Hey Peter,

1st important note to you:

My car's name is Eva (LOL) not Eleanor!!! Eleanor is from Gone In 60 Seconds! :-)

Family is good. My youngest (daughter) turns 8 on Sunday.

So,

The warranty company is Members Choice. They are very popular with credit unions. I paid about $4k for their Platinum plan (top package) and it was for an additional 75,000 miles after purchase or 7 years. After reading through the contract several times I do not see anything that indicates anything aggregate. It also says that in any one visit to the shop, the maximum deductible is 1 time at $200. So if I had 3 things broken when I take it in they repair all of them for the $200 total! Of course these are items that must be covered in the plan. So rattles, reg maintenance, brake items, etc are not covered as one would expect.

It is my understanding that if I transfer the warranty to a new buyer, any repair will still be covered as long as it does not exceed the NADA used car value of the vehicle at that time. However, I am going to double check the aggregate question when I get home tonight to be sure.

ALSO, I found out from my SA last night that after they basically finish rebuilding this motor, the dealership guarantees it for 2 years. Even down to not leaking a drop of oil!

Lastly, I flashed my ECU back to the stock tune before I drove it into the dealer. So they, nor the warranty company, could see the v5 tune. If they looked hard enough I am told they might be able to see it has been accessed at most. The thing is though, that even if they saw the v5 tune it is so mild that it in no way would have caused a bottom end failure. Guys put nitrous and superchargers on these motors without bottom ens issues.

That's all for now.

Cheers.
do you have the link to the website where you got the warranty ?
Old 03-22-2018, 04:02 AM
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Vrod, any chance of some pics of the bearings/crank journals etc...?

I know it might be a pain to ask the dealer though....if you can, however...
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Old 03-22-2018, 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by PeterUbers
Vrod!! ... this BEGS the question - who is your warranty company as I will go with them in the future!!!
Agree - Sounds like a great warranty to get.
Old 03-22-2018, 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Celicasaur
Wowser, you dodged a bullet there Vrod

TBH I'd keep it...they're fitting a new crank. That's the crux of the whole build. A fresh crank and new bearings with standard oil clearance is worth it's weight in gold. I don't even want to think what a new M156 crack costs....with that amount of coin, i'd be tempted to have a custom stroker crank made up or something, hehe. I'm going to assume they'll thoroughly clean the block, head, oil passages etc...

Curious to understand how it happened though. Rod bearing failures on any car scare me.

Should I be starting to get concerned...? I saw a rod bearing failure posted on the W204 forum recently too.

Screw it, when my oil change is due in May, I'm going to get my oil analysed.
I just asked my SA last night what he charged the warranty company for the crank. He said he started at $4,800 !!! Then after lengthy arguing he gave them 15% off. LMAO. So they got it for a steal at ONLY $4450 after tax! Insane. And this is a crank in a crate. No labor of any kind.
Old 03-22-2018, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Vrodman
I just asked my SA last night what he charged the warranty company for the crank. He said he started at $4,800 !!! Then after lengthy arguing he gave them 15% off. LMAO. So they got it for a steal at ONLY $4450 after tax! Insane. And this is a crank in a crate. No labor of any kind.
and some say it's FINE to own an amg out of warranty.... "you can do your own wrenching or go to an Indy for cheap" they say... lol!!!
Old 03-22-2018, 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Vrodman
I just asked my SA last night what he charged the warranty company for the crank. He said he started at $4,800 !!! Then after lengthy arguing he gave them 15% off. LMAO. So they got it for a steal at ONLY $4450 after tax! Insane. And this is a crank in a crate. No labor of any kind.

Old 03-26-2018, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Celicasaur
Vrod, any chance of some pics of the bearings/crank journals etc...?

I know it might be a pain to ask the dealer though....if you can, however...
Well Bud,

I tried for you. I left my SA both an email and a vmail. I mysteriously got no replies! LOL My guess is that they don't want to risk any bad publicity for MB. I told him it was just for my own curiosity. Maybe he will still come through, but having doubts at this point. I think I am finally getting the car back some time this week and I will ask him live next time I speak to him.
Old 03-26-2018, 07:12 PM
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UPDATE:

Originally Posted by Celicasaur
Vrod, any chance of some pics of the bearings/crank journals etc...?

I know it might be a pain to ask the dealer though....if you can, however...
I just spoke to my SA to find out he "thinks" the car will be done by Friday. So gonna be next week! LOL

However, the good news is that he offered to go back to the shop and take the pics you asked for! So as soon as I get them I will post them.

You ask, and you shall receive my friend!
Old 03-26-2018, 07:36 PM
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Good news man

It will be interesting to see if any clues can be brought about by the condition of them as to what caused the failure, ie heat/friction, dirt etc

Fingers crossed for a working car and then some nice clear pics of the failed bearings
Old 03-29-2018, 12:23 PM
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Pics of Damage

Originally Posted by Celicasaur
Good news man

It will be interesting to see if any clues can be brought about by the condition of them as to what caused the failure, ie heat/friction, dirt etc

Fingers crossed for a working car and then some nice clear pics of the failed bearings
Hey Bud,

Here are the pics my SA sent me. Notice the obvious wear from a spin on on #5 bearing. Also notice how pristine the journal is adjacent to #5 (#1 I believe). I Love the embossed "AMG" in the casting of the crank!

Enjoy!


Enjoy!


Old 03-31-2018, 09:23 PM
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Thank you for sharing!

Looks like something got into the oil, or a shaving from something caused it. I find the spooky that there's that big patch of really deep scores which aren't concentric. It's hard to be exact from looking via a picture, but those scratches look deep enough to warrant a new crank. My guess is that you'd have to have gone 2 sizes undersized to have retained the same crank and cut it back, but when you go that far, the engine will never normally be as reliable as when new.

Bottom line - the rest of us can probably sleep a bit easier at night.
Old 04-02-2018, 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Celicasaur
Thank you for sharing!

Looks like something got into the oil, or a shaving from something caused it. I find the spooky that there's that big patch of really deep scores which aren't concentric. It's hard to be exact from looking via a picture, but those scratches look deep enough to warrant a new crank. My guess is that you'd have to have gone 2 sizes undersized to have retained the same crank and cut it back, but when you go that far, the engine will never normally be as reliable as when new.

Bottom line - the rest of us can probably sleep a bit easier at night.
Hi Celicasaur,

I believe your assessment might be in error regarding debris getting trapped. What has actually happened is that bearing spun. When the little tang on the bearing dislodges from the female mating cavity in the rod, the the bearings will spin relative to the rod, which THEY ARE NOT SUPPOSED TO DO! When they spin they block off oil flow between the journal and the bearing. When this happens, the bearing no longer has an oil "cushion" against the journal and wear will start VERY fast. The non-concentricity is likely a function of this wear occurring in a reciprocating loading as the he piston fires cyclically.

The dealer also said that the bearing spun based on examination of the tang.

Lastly, FYI, apparently on AMG's, they never resurface or attempt to save a crank and then use over-sized bearings later as a lot of us gear heads have seen and done in the past. My SA also mentioned that the scoring you see in the pictures is not actually that deep.

Anyway, I just wanted to clarify things and this is my best understanding of what happened.

Cheers
Old 04-02-2018, 12:32 PM
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Ahhh thank you, thank you..tbh I did think that the big end must have turned un-concentric because of the wear pattern of that little area, but although I'd heard of the term 'spun bearing', i never knew how it could be caused.

I suppose the next question everyone wants to know is.... (well, batch of questions):
  • Mileage at the time of failure?
  • Oil used and were services done on time?
  • Type of driving (ie, do you wait for it to warm up to 80c (whenever the thing stops flashing)) before going harder on the throttle/revs?

I think you've owned it for longer than I've had mine, right...you've had it for...over 3 years?

While this is a rare type of failure that we (thankfully) don't hear of much with the M156, I think it's still good to learn as much as possible about failures like this as a heads up to others for the future
Old 04-02-2018, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Celicasaur
Ahhh thank you, thank you..tbh I did think that the big end must have turned un-concentric because of the wear pattern of that little area, but although I'd heard of the term 'spun bearing', i never knew how it could be caused.

I suppose the next question everyone wants to know is.... (well, batch of questions):
  • Mileage at the time of failure?
  • Oil used and were services done on time?
  • Type of driving (ie, do you wait for it to warm up to 80c (whenever the thing stops flashing)) before going harder on the throttle/revs?

I think you've owned it for longer than I've had mine, right...you've had it for...over 3 years?

While this is a rare type of failure that we (thankfully) don't hear of much with the M156, I think it's still good to learn as much as possible about failures like this as a heads up to others for the future
Answers to your questions, although I don't believe any of these would lead to a bearing tang dislodging. Just bad luck basically.

Mileage: 64,000 miles
Oil: OEM recommended Mobile 1
Services: None missed or overly late, as this would have voided the warranty. They looked at these records very close HOPING I missed one. lol
Warming up: By flashing, are you speaking of the temp reading flashing before it hits ~ 190F? I might be guilty of that on a few occasions. But again, I doubt that would lead to this type of failure. That usually leads to cylinder scoring from the rings (this was not seen)

Regards
Old 04-02-2018, 07:11 PM
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Nice. Here's a picture of the spun rod bearing from my BMW just for giggles:
by https://www.flickr.com/photos/christsay/, on Flickr

-chris


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