My 2011 totalled from a tapping noise??
#1
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
My 2011 totalled from a tapping noise??
Hey Guys,
I was scheduled for sevice at the dealer yesterday. Interesting timing. About 4 days ago I started hearing a tapping noise that sounded like valve train, lifter or worn cam lobe. The service advisor agreed with me that it sounded louder on the left bank than the right. I left the car with them not terribly worried since I have a very good third party warranty that would cover any engine issue. Same warranty covered a snapped half axle about 3 months ago. Paid for itself on that alone.
So a few hours after I left the car my service guy calls me and tells me his two techs on it agree that the noise is in the bottom end! Ugh. They suggest it is likely a rod bearing. I have not heard of this on these cars. So my SA tells me they only replace the whole long block with something like this. HUH?? I asked why cant they just drop oil pan and inspect the rod bearings. He said the engine has to be pulled to do this. Warranty company doesnt want to pay to do this. So the warranty company just asked them for a price to replace the long block. IT IS $52,000 !!!!
So my warranty has a clause, that makes sense, that they wont pay for a repair that exceeds the NADA used car listed value. That is about $31,000 for my car. So I am waiting for Monday to hear what they intend to do. I am guessing they might pay me the $31,000 and take the car? Seems like a HUGE waste. My care is pristeen. Literally not a scratch or flaw on it.
Any of you hear of anything like this?
I hear of some of you guys pumping these motors up to huge horse powers with tunes and mods and still not hear of bottom end failures. My car has never leaked a drop of oil and never been low on oil.
I welcome any advice or suggestions from you boys.
I guess the good news in this is that if they total it, I can justify to the wifey my move up to a 2015 S 4-matic!! That question will be in a separate thread regarding what I should make sure to find in options. And also what the differences are between 2014 and 15.
Thanks in advance guys.
I was scheduled for sevice at the dealer yesterday. Interesting timing. About 4 days ago I started hearing a tapping noise that sounded like valve train, lifter or worn cam lobe. The service advisor agreed with me that it sounded louder on the left bank than the right. I left the car with them not terribly worried since I have a very good third party warranty that would cover any engine issue. Same warranty covered a snapped half axle about 3 months ago. Paid for itself on that alone.
So a few hours after I left the car my service guy calls me and tells me his two techs on it agree that the noise is in the bottom end! Ugh. They suggest it is likely a rod bearing. I have not heard of this on these cars. So my SA tells me they only replace the whole long block with something like this. HUH?? I asked why cant they just drop oil pan and inspect the rod bearings. He said the engine has to be pulled to do this. Warranty company doesnt want to pay to do this. So the warranty company just asked them for a price to replace the long block. IT IS $52,000 !!!!
So my warranty has a clause, that makes sense, that they wont pay for a repair that exceeds the NADA used car listed value. That is about $31,000 for my car. So I am waiting for Monday to hear what they intend to do. I am guessing they might pay me the $31,000 and take the car? Seems like a HUGE waste. My care is pristeen. Literally not a scratch or flaw on it.
Any of you hear of anything like this?
I hear of some of you guys pumping these motors up to huge horse powers with tunes and mods and still not hear of bottom end failures. My car has never leaked a drop of oil and never been low on oil.
I welcome any advice or suggestions from you boys.
I guess the good news in this is that if they total it, I can justify to the wifey my move up to a 2015 S 4-matic!! That question will be in a separate thread regarding what I should make sure to find in options. And also what the differences are between 2014 and 15.
Thanks in advance guys.
#2
MBWorld Fanatic!
Seems strange to have a total bottom end failure without having a CEL or something extremely noticeable other than just tapping. The tapping is very common in the m156 with lifters. You're lucky to have that warranty.
#3
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Also, I am not yet convinced that these techs are correct. It sounds a lot like a lifter/tappet. And as you mentioned that is common in 156. Rod bearings are not.
#4
MBWorld Fanatic!
CEL = Check Engine Light
#5
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
I was thinking Complete Engine Loss. Lol
I actually doubt that a worn and loose rod bearing would be picked up in any manner be the CEL system. Unless the engine was really low on oil of course which would trigger the light before the tapping. And I would have seen the low oil message before the CEL.
I should know a lot more about all of this tomorrow and will update the thread.
Secretely, I would be OK with taking the $31k for the car and then upgrading to newer model. I would just need to pull a few things out of the old one like the high power sub and amp and some other extras. Then I could just drop them into the new beast!
I actually doubt that a worn and loose rod bearing would be picked up in any manner be the CEL system. Unless the engine was really low on oil of course which would trigger the light before the tapping. And I would have seen the low oil message before the CEL.
I should know a lot more about all of this tomorrow and will update the thread.
Secretely, I would be OK with taking the $31k for the car and then upgrading to newer model. I would just need to pull a few things out of the old one like the high power sub and amp and some other extras. Then I could just drop them into the new beast!
#6
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
UPDATE
Hey Guys,
The dealer finally pulled the motor out and fully inspected the bottom end. It turns out they were correct with their initial diagnosis and it is indeed a spun rod bearing on #5 (this is the cylinder closest to the front bumper on the drivers side for those who do not know). The spun bearing has scored the crank journal as expected so a new crank will be put in.
In all they will be putting in a new crank, all new rod bearings, all new main bearings, and of course all new relevant seals and gaskets. The cost to my third party extended warranty is estimated as $19k +/- $1k. So the $4k I spent on that warranty was the deal of the century! FYI, they also just paid for a snapped half axle about 3 months ago. That was $2500.
So basically I spun a rod and it will cost me $200 for the deductible.
I have some doubt that the engine will ever be as sound as it was when it came out of Stuttgart when a local dealer mechanic re-assembles it. How would any of you feel about it if it were your car? Good, weary, dump it?
My thinking is to sell it with the transferable warranty, and move up to a 2015 or 16, while it is still perfectly running. I mean to have a snapped axle and a spun rod bearing in this car that is essentially stock? It has a mild v5 tune from Eurocharged. But that isn't gonna cause those failures. Those are both weird ones.
Also, I have the wife on board with making the change based on all of this. A change I kinda wanted to do anyway. So timing is perfect!
I will update one final time after I get the car back. But that might be another 2 weeks with these guys. Ugh.
The dealer finally pulled the motor out and fully inspected the bottom end. It turns out they were correct with their initial diagnosis and it is indeed a spun rod bearing on #5 (this is the cylinder closest to the front bumper on the drivers side for those who do not know). The spun bearing has scored the crank journal as expected so a new crank will be put in.
In all they will be putting in a new crank, all new rod bearings, all new main bearings, and of course all new relevant seals and gaskets. The cost to my third party extended warranty is estimated as $19k +/- $1k. So the $4k I spent on that warranty was the deal of the century! FYI, they also just paid for a snapped half axle about 3 months ago. That was $2500.
So basically I spun a rod and it will cost me $200 for the deductible.
I have some doubt that the engine will ever be as sound as it was when it came out of Stuttgart when a local dealer mechanic re-assembles it. How would any of you feel about it if it were your car? Good, weary, dump it?
My thinking is to sell it with the transferable warranty, and move up to a 2015 or 16, while it is still perfectly running. I mean to have a snapped axle and a spun rod bearing in this car that is essentially stock? It has a mild v5 tune from Eurocharged. But that isn't gonna cause those failures. Those are both weird ones.
Also, I have the wife on board with making the change based on all of this. A change I kinda wanted to do anyway. So timing is perfect!
I will update one final time after I get the car back. But that might be another 2 weeks with these guys. Ugh.
#7
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2014 E63S; AMS 100 octane ecu tune; edok tcu tune; BB intakes; dyno tuned
Vrod!!
glad they made it right
this BEGS the question - who is your warranty company as I will go with them in the future!!!
And and and you have a tune and the warranty company doesn't know or doesn't care ... this is huge
WHAT HAPPENS if you have another $10,000 claim? Is this aggregate or per occurrence $31k max coverage?
cheers
would have liked to have seen you in a 2014+
On the one hand you now know this engine inside and out and what more could go wrong?
a new used car is new risk;
on the other hand this car has demonstrated major problems and is easy to justify dumping it
glad they made it right
this BEGS the question - who is your warranty company as I will go with them in the future!!!
And and and you have a tune and the warranty company doesn't know or doesn't care ... this is huge
WHAT HAPPENS if you have another $10,000 claim? Is this aggregate or per occurrence $31k max coverage?
cheers
would have liked to have seen you in a 2014+
On the one hand you now know this engine inside and out and what more could go wrong?
a new used car is new risk;
on the other hand this car has demonstrated major problems and is easy to justify dumping it
Last edited by PeterUbers; 03-13-2018 at 09:48 PM.
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#8
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Vrod!!
glad they made it right
this BEGS the question - who is your warranty company as I will go with them in the future!!!
And and and you have a tune and the warranty company doesn't know or doesn't care ... this is huge
WHAT HAPPENS if you have another $10,000 claim? Is this aggregate or per occurrence $31k max coverage?
cheers
would have liked to have seen you in a 2014+
On the one hand you now know this engine inside and out and what more could go wrong?
a new used car is new risk;
on the other hand this car has demonstrated major problems and is easy to justify dumping it
glad they made it right
this BEGS the question - who is your warranty company as I will go with them in the future!!!
And and and you have a tune and the warranty company doesn't know or doesn't care ... this is huge
WHAT HAPPENS if you have another $10,000 claim? Is this aggregate or per occurrence $31k max coverage?
cheers
would have liked to have seen you in a 2014+
On the one hand you now know this engine inside and out and what more could go wrong?
a new used car is new risk;
on the other hand this car has demonstrated major problems and is easy to justify dumping it
1st important note to you:
My car's name is Eva (LOL) not Eleanor!!! Eleanor is from Gone In 60 Seconds! :-)
Family is good. My youngest (daughter) turns 8 on Sunday.
So,
The warranty company is Members Choice. They are very popular with credit unions. I paid about $4k for their Platinum plan (top package) and it was for an additional 75,000 miles after purchase or 7 years. After reading through the contract several times I do not see anything that indicates anything aggregate. It also says that in any one visit to the shop, the maximum deductible is 1 time at $200. So if I had 3 things broken when I take it in they repair all of them for the $200 total! Of course these are items that must be covered in the plan. So rattles, reg maintenance, brake items, etc are not covered as one would expect.
It is my understanding that if I transfer the warranty to a new buyer, any repair will still be covered as long as it does not exceed the NADA used car value of the vehicle at that time. However, I am going to double check the aggregate question when I get home tonight to be sure.
ALSO, I found out from my SA last night that after they basically finish rebuilding this motor, the dealership guarantees it for 2 years. Even down to not leaking a drop of oil!
Lastly, I flashed my ECU back to the stock tune before I drove it into the dealer. So they, nor the warranty company, could see the v5 tune. If they looked hard enough I am told they might be able to see it has been accessed at most. The thing is though, that even if they saw the v5 tune it is so mild that it in no way would have caused a bottom end failure. Guys put nitrous and superchargers on these motors without bottom ens issues.
That's all for now.
Cheers.
#9
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Join Date: Jun 2004
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2014 E63S; AMS 100 octane ecu tune; edok tcu tune; BB intakes; dyno tuned
Hey Peter,
1st important note to you:
My car's name is Eva (LOL) not Eleanor!!! Eleanor is from Gone In 60 Seconds! :-)
Family is good. My youngest (daughter) turns 8 on Sunday.
So,
The warranty company is Members Choice. They are very popular with credit unions. I paid about $4k for their Platinum plan (top package) and it was for an additional 75,000 miles after purchase or 7 years. After reading through the contract several times I do not see anything that indicates anything aggregate. It also says that in any one visit to the shop, the maximum deductible is 1 time at $200. So if I had 3 things broken when I take it in they repair all of them for the $200 total! Of course these are items that must be covered in the plan. So rattles, reg maintenance, brake items, etc are not covered as one would expect.
It is my understanding that if I transfer the warranty to a new buyer, any repair will still be covered as long as it does not exceed the NADA used car value of the vehicle at that time. However, I am going to double check the aggregate question when I get home tonight to be sure.
ALSO, I found out from my SA last night that after they basically finish rebuilding this motor, the dealership guarantees it for 2 years. Even down to not leaking a drop of oil!
Lastly, I flashed my ECU back to the stock tune before I drove it into the dealer. So they, nor the warranty company, could see the v5 tune. If they looked hard enough I am told they might be able to see it has been accessed at most. The thing is though, that even if they saw the v5 tune it is so mild that it in no way would have caused a bottom end failure. Guys put nitrous and superchargers on these motors without bottom ens issues.
That's all for now.
Cheers.
1st important note to you:
My car's name is Eva (LOL) not Eleanor!!! Eleanor is from Gone In 60 Seconds! :-)
Family is good. My youngest (daughter) turns 8 on Sunday.
So,
The warranty company is Members Choice. They are very popular with credit unions. I paid about $4k for their Platinum plan (top package) and it was for an additional 75,000 miles after purchase or 7 years. After reading through the contract several times I do not see anything that indicates anything aggregate. It also says that in any one visit to the shop, the maximum deductible is 1 time at $200. So if I had 3 things broken when I take it in they repair all of them for the $200 total! Of course these are items that must be covered in the plan. So rattles, reg maintenance, brake items, etc are not covered as one would expect.
It is my understanding that if I transfer the warranty to a new buyer, any repair will still be covered as long as it does not exceed the NADA used car value of the vehicle at that time. However, I am going to double check the aggregate question when I get home tonight to be sure.
ALSO, I found out from my SA last night that after they basically finish rebuilding this motor, the dealership guarantees it for 2 years. Even down to not leaking a drop of oil!
Lastly, I flashed my ECU back to the stock tune before I drove it into the dealer. So they, nor the warranty company, could see the v5 tune. If they looked hard enough I am told they might be able to see it has been accessed at most. The thing is though, that even if they saw the v5 tune it is so mild that it in no way would have caused a bottom end failure. Guys put nitrous and superchargers on these motors without bottom ens issues.
That's all for now.
Cheers.
great to hear the family is growing well and you're all healthy
keep the car man, sounds like it'll be a win win and the car won't surprise you with much more
however if you get a 2014+ you will not be disappointed
smart move on the tune re flash
#10
MBWorld Fanatic!
Wowser, you dodged a bullet there Vrod
TBH I'd keep it...they're fitting a new crank. That's the crux of the whole build. A fresh crank and new bearings with standard oil clearance is worth it's weight in gold. I don't even want to think what a new M156 crack costs....with that amount of coin, i'd be tempted to have a custom stroker crank made up or something, hehe. I'm going to assume they'll thoroughly clean the block, head, oil passages etc...
Curious to understand how it happened though. Rod bearing failures on any car scare me.
Should I be starting to get concerned...? I saw a rod bearing failure posted on the W204 forum recently too.
Screw it, when my oil change is due in May, I'm going to get my oil analysed.
TBH I'd keep it...they're fitting a new crank. That's the crux of the whole build. A fresh crank and new bearings with standard oil clearance is worth it's weight in gold. I don't even want to think what a new M156 crack costs....with that amount of coin, i'd be tempted to have a custom stroker crank made up or something, hehe. I'm going to assume they'll thoroughly clean the block, head, oil passages etc...
Curious to understand how it happened though. Rod bearing failures on any car scare me.
Should I be starting to get concerned...? I saw a rod bearing failure posted on the W204 forum recently too.
Screw it, when my oil change is due in May, I'm going to get my oil analysed.
#11
Junior Member
Hey Peter,
1st important note to you:
My car's name is Eva (LOL) not Eleanor!!! Eleanor is from Gone In 60 Seconds! :-)
Family is good. My youngest (daughter) turns 8 on Sunday.
So,
The warranty company is Members Choice. They are very popular with credit unions. I paid about $4k for their Platinum plan (top package) and it was for an additional 75,000 miles after purchase or 7 years. After reading through the contract several times I do not see anything that indicates anything aggregate. It also says that in any one visit to the shop, the maximum deductible is 1 time at $200. So if I had 3 things broken when I take it in they repair all of them for the $200 total! Of course these are items that must be covered in the plan. So rattles, reg maintenance, brake items, etc are not covered as one would expect.
It is my understanding that if I transfer the warranty to a new buyer, any repair will still be covered as long as it does not exceed the NADA used car value of the vehicle at that time. However, I am going to double check the aggregate question when I get home tonight to be sure.
ALSO, I found out from my SA last night that after they basically finish rebuilding this motor, the dealership guarantees it for 2 years. Even down to not leaking a drop of oil!
Lastly, I flashed my ECU back to the stock tune before I drove it into the dealer. So they, nor the warranty company, could see the v5 tune. If they looked hard enough I am told they might be able to see it has been accessed at most. The thing is though, that even if they saw the v5 tune it is so mild that it in no way would have caused a bottom end failure. Guys put nitrous and superchargers on these motors without bottom ens issues.
That's all for now.
Cheers.
1st important note to you:
My car's name is Eva (LOL) not Eleanor!!! Eleanor is from Gone In 60 Seconds! :-)
Family is good. My youngest (daughter) turns 8 on Sunday.
So,
The warranty company is Members Choice. They are very popular with credit unions. I paid about $4k for their Platinum plan (top package) and it was for an additional 75,000 miles after purchase or 7 years. After reading through the contract several times I do not see anything that indicates anything aggregate. It also says that in any one visit to the shop, the maximum deductible is 1 time at $200. So if I had 3 things broken when I take it in they repair all of them for the $200 total! Of course these are items that must be covered in the plan. So rattles, reg maintenance, brake items, etc are not covered as one would expect.
It is my understanding that if I transfer the warranty to a new buyer, any repair will still be covered as long as it does not exceed the NADA used car value of the vehicle at that time. However, I am going to double check the aggregate question when I get home tonight to be sure.
ALSO, I found out from my SA last night that after they basically finish rebuilding this motor, the dealership guarantees it for 2 years. Even down to not leaking a drop of oil!
Lastly, I flashed my ECU back to the stock tune before I drove it into the dealer. So they, nor the warranty company, could see the v5 tune. If they looked hard enough I am told they might be able to see it has been accessed at most. The thing is though, that even if they saw the v5 tune it is so mild that it in no way would have caused a bottom end failure. Guys put nitrous and superchargers on these motors without bottom ens issues.
That's all for now.
Cheers.
#12
MBWorld Fanatic!
Vrod, any chance of some pics of the bearings/crank journals etc...?
I know it might be a pain to ask the dealer though....if you can, however...
I know it might be a pain to ask the dealer though....if you can, however...
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cemeek (03-22-2018)
#13
MBWorld Fanatic!
#14
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Wowser, you dodged a bullet there Vrod
TBH I'd keep it...they're fitting a new crank. That's the crux of the whole build. A fresh crank and new bearings with standard oil clearance is worth it's weight in gold. I don't even want to think what a new M156 crack costs....with that amount of coin, i'd be tempted to have a custom stroker crank made up or something, hehe. I'm going to assume they'll thoroughly clean the block, head, oil passages etc...
Curious to understand how it happened though. Rod bearing failures on any car scare me.
Should I be starting to get concerned...? I saw a rod bearing failure posted on the W204 forum recently too.
Screw it, when my oil change is due in May, I'm going to get my oil analysed.
TBH I'd keep it...they're fitting a new crank. That's the crux of the whole build. A fresh crank and new bearings with standard oil clearance is worth it's weight in gold. I don't even want to think what a new M156 crack costs....with that amount of coin, i'd be tempted to have a custom stroker crank made up or something, hehe. I'm going to assume they'll thoroughly clean the block, head, oil passages etc...
Curious to understand how it happened though. Rod bearing failures on any car scare me.
Should I be starting to get concerned...? I saw a rod bearing failure posted on the W204 forum recently too.
Screw it, when my oil change is due in May, I'm going to get my oil analysed.
#15
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2014 E63S; AMS 100 octane ecu tune; edok tcu tune; BB intakes; dyno tuned
I just asked my SA last night what he charged the warranty company for the crank. He said he started at $4,800 !!! Then after lengthy arguing he gave them 15% off. LMAO. So they got it for a steal at ONLY $4450 after tax! Insane. And this is a crank in a crate. No labor of any kind.
#16
MBWorld Fanatic!
I just asked my SA last night what he charged the warranty company for the crank. He said he started at $4,800 !!! Then after lengthy arguing he gave them 15% off. LMAO. So they got it for a steal at ONLY $4450 after tax! Insane. And this is a crank in a crate. No labor of any kind.
#17
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
I tried for you. I left my SA both an email and a vmail. I mysteriously got no replies! LOL My guess is that they don't want to risk any bad publicity for MB. I told him it was just for my own curiosity. Maybe he will still come through, but having doubts at this point. I think I am finally getting the car back some time this week and I will ask him live next time I speak to him.
#18
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
UPDATE:
However, the good news is that he offered to go back to the shop and take the pics you asked for! So as soon as I get them I will post them.
You ask, and you shall receive my friend!
#19
MBWorld Fanatic!
Good news man
It will be interesting to see if any clues can be brought about by the condition of them as to what caused the failure, ie heat/friction, dirt etc
Fingers crossed for a working car and then some nice clear pics of the failed bearings
It will be interesting to see if any clues can be brought about by the condition of them as to what caused the failure, ie heat/friction, dirt etc
Fingers crossed for a working car and then some nice clear pics of the failed bearings
#20
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Pics of Damage
Here are the pics my SA sent me. Notice the obvious wear from a spin on on #5 bearing. Also notice how pristine the journal is adjacent to #5 (#1 I believe). I Love the embossed "AMG" in the casting of the crank!
Enjoy!
Enjoy!
#21
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thank you for sharing!
Looks like something got into the oil, or a shaving from something caused it. I find the spooky that there's that big patch of really deep scores which aren't concentric. It's hard to be exact from looking via a picture, but those scratches look deep enough to warrant a new crank. My guess is that you'd have to have gone 2 sizes undersized to have retained the same crank and cut it back, but when you go that far, the engine will never normally be as reliable as when new.
Bottom line - the rest of us can probably sleep a bit easier at night.
Looks like something got into the oil, or a shaving from something caused it. I find the spooky that there's that big patch of really deep scores which aren't concentric. It's hard to be exact from looking via a picture, but those scratches look deep enough to warrant a new crank. My guess is that you'd have to have gone 2 sizes undersized to have retained the same crank and cut it back, but when you go that far, the engine will never normally be as reliable as when new.
Bottom line - the rest of us can probably sleep a bit easier at night.
#22
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Thank you for sharing!
Looks like something got into the oil, or a shaving from something caused it. I find the spooky that there's that big patch of really deep scores which aren't concentric. It's hard to be exact from looking via a picture, but those scratches look deep enough to warrant a new crank. My guess is that you'd have to have gone 2 sizes undersized to have retained the same crank and cut it back, but when you go that far, the engine will never normally be as reliable as when new.
Bottom line - the rest of us can probably sleep a bit easier at night.
Looks like something got into the oil, or a shaving from something caused it. I find the spooky that there's that big patch of really deep scores which aren't concentric. It's hard to be exact from looking via a picture, but those scratches look deep enough to warrant a new crank. My guess is that you'd have to have gone 2 sizes undersized to have retained the same crank and cut it back, but when you go that far, the engine will never normally be as reliable as when new.
Bottom line - the rest of us can probably sleep a bit easier at night.
I believe your assessment might be in error regarding debris getting trapped. What has actually happened is that bearing spun. When the little tang on the bearing dislodges from the female mating cavity in the rod, the the bearings will spin relative to the rod, which THEY ARE NOT SUPPOSED TO DO! When they spin they block off oil flow between the journal and the bearing. When this happens, the bearing no longer has an oil "cushion" against the journal and wear will start VERY fast. The non-concentricity is likely a function of this wear occurring in a reciprocating loading as the he piston fires cyclically.
The dealer also said that the bearing spun based on examination of the tang.
Lastly, FYI, apparently on AMG's, they never resurface or attempt to save a crank and then use over-sized bearings later as a lot of us gear heads have seen and done in the past. My SA also mentioned that the scoring you see in the pictures is not actually that deep.
Anyway, I just wanted to clarify things and this is my best understanding of what happened.
Cheers
#23
MBWorld Fanatic!
Ahhh thank you, thank you..tbh I did think that the big end must have turned un-concentric because of the wear pattern of that little area, but although I'd heard of the term 'spun bearing', i never knew how it could be caused.
I suppose the next question everyone wants to know is.... (well, batch of questions):
I think you've owned it for longer than I've had mine, right...you've had it for...over 3 years?
While this is a rare type of failure that we (thankfully) don't hear of much with the M156, I think it's still good to learn as much as possible about failures like this as a heads up to others for the future
I suppose the next question everyone wants to know is.... (well, batch of questions):
- Mileage at the time of failure?
- Oil used and were services done on time?
- Type of driving (ie, do you wait for it to warm up to 80c (whenever the thing stops flashing)) before going harder on the throttle/revs?
I think you've owned it for longer than I've had mine, right...you've had it for...over 3 years?
While this is a rare type of failure that we (thankfully) don't hear of much with the M156, I think it's still good to learn as much as possible about failures like this as a heads up to others for the future
#24
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Ahhh thank you, thank you..tbh I did think that the big end must have turned un-concentric because of the wear pattern of that little area, but although I'd heard of the term 'spun bearing', i never knew how it could be caused.
I suppose the next question everyone wants to know is.... (well, batch of questions):
I think you've owned it for longer than I've had mine, right...you've had it for...over 3 years?
While this is a rare type of failure that we (thankfully) don't hear of much with the M156, I think it's still good to learn as much as possible about failures like this as a heads up to others for the future
I suppose the next question everyone wants to know is.... (well, batch of questions):
- Mileage at the time of failure?
- Oil used and were services done on time?
- Type of driving (ie, do you wait for it to warm up to 80c (whenever the thing stops flashing)) before going harder on the throttle/revs?
I think you've owned it for longer than I've had mine, right...you've had it for...over 3 years?
While this is a rare type of failure that we (thankfully) don't hear of much with the M156, I think it's still good to learn as much as possible about failures like this as a heads up to others for the future
Mileage: 64,000 miles
Oil: OEM recommended Mobile 1
Services: None missed or overly late, as this would have voided the warranty. They looked at these records very close HOPING I missed one. lol
Warming up: By flashing, are you speaking of the temp reading flashing before it hits ~ 190F? I might be guilty of that on a few occasions. But again, I doubt that would lead to this type of failure. That usually leads to cylinder scoring from the rings (this was not seen)
Regards
#25
Member
Nice. Here's a picture of the spun rod bearing from my BMW just for giggles:
by https://www.flickr.com/photos/christsay/, on Flickr
-chris
-chris