When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'm going to go under this weekend to verify the cross strut. I've been getting a ticking noise on the left front wheel too- not sure if related or if i'm going to have to dig into the bearing or something.
May tackle the job myself- but since I'll need an alignment anyways might just bring it all in to the MB gents (just put on new wheels and tires too)- it's all about finding the time with (2) little ones running around the house! Thx for the links.
I'm going to go under this weekend to verify the cross strut. I've been getting a ticking noise on the left front wheel too- not sure if related or if i'm going to have to dig into the bearing or something.
May tackle the job myself- but since I'll need an alignment anyways might just bring it all in to the MB gents (just put on new wheels and tires too)- it's all about finding the time with (2) little ones running around the house! Thx for the links.
I hear you (with the kids issue). If you have warranty, absolutely bring it back to MB.
Just adding this video here as reference for anyone who wonders if the bushing can be swapped instead of the whole arm. The tool exists. I don't know if they have made a replacement bushing for the W212 E63 though. The vehicle in the video is E55 wagon. FFWD to 3:41
Just adding this video here as reference for anyone who wonders if the bushing can be swapped instead of the whole arm. The tool exists. I don't know if they have made a replacement bushing for the W212 E63 though. The vehicle in the video is E55 wagon. FFWD to 3:41
SOrry to bring this back from 11mo.
I was wondering if anyone had found a bushing replacement for the 2183302200 control arm? It appears k-mac makes there solid gold priced ones (lol), but I would imagine the hole in the arm is the same diameter as many other bushings.
My driver side failed at 11,800 miles, one month out of warranty lol.
Bumping this as I'm looking to replace my Front Driver side control arm.
Does anyone recall how long of a job this takes? From looking at the forum people have reported as quick as 1 hour, but some based on the cost of their bill, seems like it can be a 4-6 hour job.
Bumping this as I'm looking to replace my Front Driver side control arm.
Does anyone recall how long of a job this takes? From looking at the forum people have reported as quick as 1 hour, but some based on the cost of their bill, seems like it can be a 4-6 hour job.
I just did this myself, and it only took me about 45 minutes. Not sure how much a shop or a dealer would charge you. It's really not that hard at all. Essentially two bolts
I just did this myself, and it only took me about 45 minutes. Not sure how much a shop or a dealer would charge you. It's really not that hard at all. Essentially two bolts
Hmm, good to know. Thanks for the fast response. 1st shop has quoted me a ridiculous amount of time to replace, so I'll be having a chat with the SA and tech. Might just have to find a new shop to take it to or if I'm feeling adventurous I'll try to tackle it myself.
Hmm, good to know. Thanks for the fast response. 1st shop has quoted me a ridiculous amount of time to replace, so I'll be having a chat with the SA and tech. Might just have to find a new shop to take it to or if I'm feeling adventurous I'll try to tackle it myself.
Let me know if you decide to diy. Even for a someone with basic skill should be able to do it. The hard part is 'pooping' the ball joint, but you can buy it rent a tool and it should make it easy.
Let me know if you decide to diy. Even for a someone with basic skill should be able to do it. The hard part is 'pooping' the ball joint, but you can buy it rent a tool and it should make it easy.
Thanks, I'll definitely give you a shout if I decide to DIY.
I hardly drive it but I just started having this at 9k miles. Clicks when turning both left and right at slow speeds. Drivers side squeaks and creaks when I push up and down on front and when I exit the car like I weigh a ton.
My wifes W213 E300 4matic w/ 22K miles started to make that squeaking noise when you turn the wheel side to side while standing still. i am at loss of words at this point, for a 2017 model with 22K miles on the clock, this is unacceptable from a company like mercedes. if i have to buy an extended warranty for a 4 year old vehicle with 22K miles, i clearly bought the wrong car.
My wifes W213 E300 4matic w/ 22K miles started to make that squeaking noise when you turn the wheel side to side while standing still. i am at loss of words at this point, for a 2017 model with 22K miles on the clock, this is unacceptable from a company like mercedes. if i have to buy an extended warranty for a 4 year old vehicle with 22K miles, i clearly bought the wrong car.
Well, you obviously have some words lol
Ive owned 32 cars now of all different brands, Japanese, swedish, German, Italian, and of course the big 3 American etc. I have been active in the forums for all of those cars and one thing that is consistent regardless of brand is post like this. Guess what, cars break. Even the best made cars have a weak spot, and sometimes, it fails. Replace it, and move on.
My bushing broke to, I fixed it and have been trouble free now. My in-laws have both a camry and avalon that have had all kinds of issues and the e63 is still 100 times the car as those.
my car is a 2014. I just replaced the arms and the shocks at 46k kilometers, which is 28k miles.. I have not heard of other cars with much more mileage having to change shocks.. so yes, captain obvious is right.
Cars break, in different times, in different manners.
I guess I am joining the club. My 13 cls63 has just turned 30k a couple weeks ago. I also ran over the pothole, it's kinda bad but not really bad so I am not sure if this has caused the metal knuckling noise. It's not right after the the incident that I hear the noise. It's around a week later when I ran over some speed bumps then I start to hear knuckling noise. The noise is really really bad, like some thing is loosing and about to fall off. I found the 2 sway bar end links were really loose so I replaced them but the noise is still there. All the bushings of the control arms, tie rod ends, sway bar cross ........ look tie and no playing. I am not sure what else to check now. I don't want to replace all the suspension components as I did with my old 07 E63. Should I just go ahead and replace the control arms just like a lot of people in this thread did?
I guess I am joining the club. My 13 cls63 has just turned 30k a couple weeks ago. I also ran over the pothole, it's kinda bad but not really bad so I am not sure if this has caused the metal knuckling noise. It's not right after the the incident that I hear the noise. It's around a week later when I ran over some speed bumps then I start to hear knuckling noise. The noise is really really bad, like some thing is loosing and about to fall off. I found the 2 sway bar end links were really loose so I replaced them but the noise is still there. All the bushings of the control arms, tie rod ends, sway bar cross ........ look tie and no playing. I am not sure what else to check now. I don't want to replace all the suspension components as I did with my old 07 E63. Should I just go ahead and replace the control arms just like a lot of people in this thread did?
Sorry to hear about your issue. However, the sound that is produced by the bushing being pushed outta the cross strut (pictured several times in posts prior) is definitively a "squeak". An embarrassing, annoying, rubber being twisted, squeak. I would definitely not describe the noise/sound as "metal knuckling". If you take off the under tray you would definitely see the bushing out of place.
I don't think your issue is the same.
Sorry to hear about your issue. However, the sound that is produced by the bushing being pushed outta the cross strut (pictured several times in posts prior) is definitively a "squeak". An embarrassing, annoying, rubber being twisted, squeak. I would definitely not describe the noise/sound as "metal knuckling". If you take off the under tray you would definitely see the bushing out of place.
I don't think your issue is the same.
Thank you for your reply. I meant the knocking sound. I don't want to bring my car to the dealer but I think in this case, it's my best option.
Found a couple links about the banging noises when driving over speed bumps. Loose brake calipers can make knocking noise. It didn't make sense to me at first but I decided to double check and yes indeed I had loose brake calipers on the front right. When I replaced the wheel bearings, I didn't torque spec it right. By the way, the new Lemforder sway bar end links do make the suspension feel more stiff and the handling is a lot better now. I'm going to do the same for the rear. Thank you guys.
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
